DIY Driveway advice

[curatesegg]

I am in the process of reworking my driveway to better facilitate our recent motorhome purchase.

It's currently covered in way too much 20mm golden gravel.

I'm taking most of this off and then adding 150mm hardcore, before returning it.

The current layering is a lot of broken down bricks, weed membrane then the golden gravel.

If I was to leave a covering of the gravel on top and then add the 150mm of hardcore does anyone know if that would be good, bad or of little consequence?

 

[Richard n Ann]

We've got slate down where the lawn used to be, good for vehicles because they don't sink in at all. Just a thought if you're considering buying stuff ?

 

[Ivory55]

If you use road stone , it’s a little bit more money but can be compacted down tight with a whacker plate to make a good base. Also if you do not use a kerb edging to contain it over time the weight of your van will cause it to spread side ways .

 

[Puddleduck]

We are slowly taking up our drive and putting down these plastic grids as we can afford them:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=192637420340

We have to have a gravel drive (planning constraint) but found the gravel tends to migrate to where it isn't wanted (like onto the road!) after heavy rain.

 

[Landy Andy]

If I was to leave a covering of the gravel on top and then add the 150mm of hardcore does anyone know if that would be good, bad or of little consequence?

You shouldn’t put hardcore on top of the 20mm stone. The 20mm stone being round stones won’t lock together giving a firm base, so will continue to migrate around the area as you drive on it. Leaving a bit will be ok, but not layers of it. The grids above are a great stabiliser for stone driveways and give a very firm driveway.

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[MANGOFORTH]

Put type 1 over the top of the hard-core, run a whacker plate over it, then a 10mm layer of sand on top of that. Then the plastic honeycomb grids with THIN layer of gravel on that.

 

[Ivory55]

Type 1 roadstone goes hard with a whacker

 

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[davanne]

We made a new driveway last year for the Motorhome and access round to Max’s new workshop
we had the lawn dug up with a mini digger and then 64 tons of hardcore laid on top of a membrane then it was covered with marchwood gravel.
we had a large concrete mixer and a builders merchants lorry on it at the same time when Max was putting his concrete base down for the workshop.

 

[Wagoneer]

The OP's problem seems to be that the loose 20mm rounded gravel moves around, forming a furrow when a MH drives over it.

He could try experimenting with a small trial section as follows: dump a mixture of sharp sand and 5mm crushed stone over a small area and spread out to a thickness of say 50mm. Hose down the area until the finer material migrates down into the existing 20mm rounded gravel. Tamp down the area and repeat as necessary until a firm base is achieved. The decorative existing gravel should still be visible on the surface but will be stabilised by the finer material filling the voids between the larger rounded stone.

This assumes the existing subbase (crushed bricks etc) is sufficienly thick to support a MH without undue settlement. Ideally, a geotextile (Terram 1000) should be laid beneath the existing gravel surface to prevent fine material being washed down into the subbase.

Generally, a thicker subbase is required where the surface geology is clay. A free draining gravel surface geology will need the bare minimum of 50 to 75mm for typical residential useage.

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[Wagoneer]

The OP's problem seems to be that the loose 20mm rounded gravel moves around, forming a furrow when a MH drives over it.

He could try experimenting with a small trial section as follows: dump a mixture of sharp sand and 5mm crushed stone over a small area and spread out to a thickness of say 50mm. Hose down the area until the finer material migrates down into the existing 20mm rounded gravel. Tamp down the area and repeat as necessary until a firm base is achieved. The decorative existing gravel should still be visible on the surface but will be stabilised by the finer material filling the voids between the larger rounded stone.

This assumes the existing subbase (crushed bricks etc) is sufficienly thick to support a MH without undue settlement. Ideally, a geotextile (Terram 1000) should be laid beneath the existing gravel surface to prevent fine material being washed down into the subbase.

Generally, a thicker subbase is required where the surface geology is clay. A free draining gravel surface geology will need the bare minimum of 50 to 75mm for typical residential useage.

A slight amendment to my post above. Instead of using sharp sand and 5mm crushed stone......it would probably be better to use a graded mix of crushed stone from 5mm down to 0mm (dust). I don't know if this is available to you locally but would be cheaper than purchasing two separate aggregates. Basically, you're just looking for a composite mix of angular aggregates to fill the voids between the 20mm rounded stones.

Graded mixes are better for compaction as opposed to a single sized crushed stone.

Alternatively, as mentioned above, plastic grids are good to contain the gravel. They can also be used to sustain grass cover with a topsoil layer and good drainage.

Unsealed surfaces are always going to be a problem in wet weather. Considering that, perhaps the best solution is plastic grids containg loose single size gravel. At least you're less likely to pick up debris on your shoes

 

[Glandwr]

Making me jealous. With a 700 yard track all I can afford is a 10 ton load of scalpings every 7/8 years to fill the worst pot holes.

 

[TheBig1]

the proper answer depends on the makeup of the ground you want to park on. But based on the description, I would just add in plastic grid mats to stop the gravel migrating. If it is a case that the motorhome sinks in, rather than displace surface gravel, then increasing the depth of hardcore base would be the answer

remember though the base needs to be water permeable to drain off any surface water

 

[grasscutter]

I’ve built many driveways over the years. From your description I would remove all the gravel. Apply 100 to 150mm scalping over the membrane and then fully consolidate with a wacker plate. Respread gravel to maximum depth of 50mm.

 

[curatesegg]

Thanks for all the replies, I have a plan now.

You've all been very helpful.

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[CloudsAbove]

If you change your mind and fancy something different, we had stamped concrete to support our motorhome, looks amazing and I'm now planning to get the whole driveway done!

 

[Simon Meadwell]

Imprinted concrete can be very slippery!

 

[berni109]

curatesegg it just so happens I am about to sell my waker plate. Only had about 4 hours use from new last year.

 

[wiljoy]

We are slowly taking up our drive and putting down these plastic grids as we can afford them:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-...0001&campid=5338547443&icep_item=192637420340

We have to have a gravel drive (planning constraint) but found the gravel tends to migrate to where it isn't wanted (like onto the road!) after heavy rain.

I put down these 2 years ago and they have performed very well. None broken and keep there shape with over 4 ton on them

 

[pappajohn]

curatesegg it just so happens I am about to sell my waker plate. Only had about 4 hours use from new last year.

Think it may not be needed now, it was all posted last January.
Another thread dragged out of bed.

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[Basildog]

As has been said previously it’s all about the local geology, I’ve worked on driveways where you can push a roofing batten 3 metres - 10 foot into the ground by hand
Drive to the next village and it’s all brash just a scrape under the surface, there isn’t an easy answer without knowing the local ground conditions

 

[Lenny HB]

Think it may not be needed now, it was all posted last January.
Another thread dragged out of bed.

I blame the Similar Threads bit at the bottom.

 

[pappajohn]

Yep... That's what's doing it Lenny.

 

[Lenny HB]

Yep... That's what's doing it Lenny.

Jim was trying to fix it, so it doesn't bring up really old threads.

 

[Puddleduck]

curatesegg it just so happens I am about to sell my waker plate. Only had about 4 hours use from new last year.

Pity you are so far away as we would have been interested. We'll probably hire one for a couple of days.

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[berni109]

Cant beat having the tools for the job and no time pressure without having to worry about hire return.
As you say rather too far to offer delivery.

 

[Bolti]

Aldi usually sell whacked plates each spring. Think last year they were about £300.

 

[gus-lopez]

If you change your mind and fancy something different, we had stamped concrete to support our motorhome, looks amazing and I'm now planning to get the whole driveway done!

Just be aware that many councils now do not allow anything over 2m2 concrete without planning permission due to water run off. Many do not allow solid covering of frontage without water drainage.
Worthwhile checking as they could end up making it all be dug up.

I blame the Similar Threads bit at the bottom.

yes if you return to the "what's new" thread using back space towards the bottom it is easy clicking on one without realising