Battery Terminal Crimping (1 Viewer)

[Steve and Denise]

I am in the process of adding two more batteries and have all the gear ready 35 mm sq cable and ends I have a hydraulic crimper the question is are you to put any thing on the copper wire before crimping ie to stop corrosion.

 

[St3v3]

I use heatshrink covering the whole of the tube and a similar amount of the wire insulation at the least.

Difficult to tell from the pic, although it does look about right, but you want the insulation trimmed so that the tube is full of copper and the insulation is touching the tube.

 

[LesW]

I may be wrong but that doesn't look like a crimp connection, it looks more like a solder one.

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[Jimbohorlicks]

I would run some solder over the wire first and as suggested put some heat shrink over the wire before you crimp it up

 

[Garfields]

As you have the crimper I would just do that
A little Vaseline / petroleum gel on the terminals when you attach them to battery wont do any harm

 

[St3v3]

I may be wrong but that doesn't look like a crimp connection, it looks more like a solder one.

You can definitely crimp those.

Here's a nice pic of some done ones. Too much copper showing really, but hey ho lol

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[pappajohn]

Factory made earth wires etc don't have any protection from corrosion.
It's extremely unlikely you'll get any galvanic corrosion and a smear of petroleum jelly on the crimp lug and battery post when fitting will do.

 

[Lenny HB]

I would run some solder over the wire first and as suggested put some heat shrink over the wire before you crimp it up

Do NOT solder wires before crimping, as when you crimp the join the wires will break apart giving a poor joint. A crimped joint cold welds the metals together it completely defeats the object if you solder the wire. Not only would you get a poor joint also it will work loose over time.

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

Do NOT solder wires before crimping, as when you crimp the join the wires will break apart giving a poor joint. A crimped joint cold welds the metals together it completely defeats the object if you solder the wire. Not only would you get a poor joint also it will work loose over time.

I have never heard of a cold weld, crimping is a mechanical joint only,there is no welding or fusion of the wires,or wires to the crimped lug.
Crimping is usually preferred because it's easier.

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[tonyidle]

Crimping is usually preferred because it's easier

It is preferred because it is more reliable. A crimp may not be a true 'cold weld' but done correctly it should deform every individual strand and exclude air from the joint. Just in case it doesn't (as with Fiat earth straps) Vaseline or even WD40 will fill any voids.

 

[XxAnthxX]

I have never heard of a cold weld

This might explain it.......

Good In A Pinch: The Physics Of Crimped Connections

I had a friend who was an electronics assembly tech for a big defense contractor. He was a production floor guy who had a chip on his shoulder for the engineers with their fancy book-learnin’…

hackaday.com

Crimp (joining) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Cold welding - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Lenny HB]

Crimping is usually preferred because it's easier.

No, it is because it makes a better joint.

Excerpt from an article about crimping wires:-

As more pressure is applied to the connection, metal in the wire strands begins to stretch and flow. This loosens and drives off any surface oxides that might have increased the resistance of the connection. With more pressure comes more deformation of the wire bundle until the formerly round cross-section of each strand is gone, replaced by a collection of strands with flattened sides snugged up next to each other in a honeycomb pattern. The result is cold-welded, gas-tight junctions between the strands and the crimp connector.

Science of Cold Welding: Joining Metals Without Heat - Arc Welding

Arc Welding Services Ltd explores what cold welding is and what its common applications are, as well as looking at how astronauts cold weld in space.

www.arcweldingservices.co.uk

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[Steve and Denise]

Ok crimped up looks good

 

[St3v3]

Ok crimped up looks good View attachment 458473

Cool. Longer heat shrink if you have it, but no big deal!

 

[Steve and Denise]

Cool. Longer heat shrink if you have it, but no big deal!

I was struggling with the heat shrink due to size but I did have some larger red in my box

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[autorouter]

the question is are you to put any thing on the copper wire before crimping ie to stop corrosion.

I find that the heatshrink size that just fits over the connection after crimping is fine, and shrinks down to grip the cable and connector. No need to slide it on before crimping.

If you were bothered about corrosion you should be using marine grade wire, which has tinned strands to better resist corrosion.

404 Not Found - Automotive & Marine Supplies – Electrical Equipment | Altec Automotive

Automotive & marine supplies available from Altec Automotive. We stock a range of fuses, relays, cables, terminals, sleeving, heatshrink & much more.

www.altecautomotive.co.uk

 

[Steve and Denise]

I find that the heatshrink size that just fits over the connection after crimping is fine, and shrinks down to grip the cable and connector. No need to slide it on before crimping.

If you were bothered about corrosion you should be using marine grade wire, which has tinned strands to better resist corrosion

It’s in a dry area I had just wondered if it was the done thing, normally I just crimp and cover and have never had any problems.

 

[Setras431dt]

Just crimp them on, put some heat shrink over the end of the terminal and wire

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[bigwood]

When I was working at the bus workshop the electrician used to crimp the battery and starter terminals and then run solder into the terminal. He said that was what the small hole next to the ring is for.
He made up the cables for the winch and second battery on my Discovery I can’t remember any terminals pulling off cables so I assumed he knew what he was doing.

 

[St3v3]

then run solder into the terminal. He said that was what the small hole next to the ring is for.

The hole is to be able to check the crimp has been done properly, i.e. the copper is in far enough. The reality is though, all of these "must do it this way" things are for terminals that are carrying the maximum current continuously and are required to last 20+ years...

However, the must do's in this instance aren't actually a hardship to do, so why wouldn't you?

 

[Steve and Denise]

The hole is to be able to check the crimp has been done properly, i.e. the copper is in far enough. The reality is though, all of these "must do it this way" things are for terminals that are carrying the maximum current continuously and are required to last 20+ years...

However, the must do's in this instance aren't actually a hardship to do, so why wouldn't you?

Only 20 YEARS !

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[autorouter]

Soldering connectors instead of, or as well as, crimping makes for less reliable joints in a vibration-prone environment like a vehicle or aircraft. Solder joints are forbidden in aircraft repairs, and in most makes of motor vehicles - certainly Audi.There are decades of reliability studies to confirm this. Solder joints fail in the long-term under vibration much more than crimps. The best way is crimp and cover, which is what you are doing.

 

[Googlebot]

I have just used one of these.

Seemed to do a good job. The strength of the crimp depends on the hammer I suppose. I did consider the sledgehammer but decided that was a bit too much!

 

[XxAnthxX]

I have just used one of these.

View attachment 458773

Seemed to do a good job. The strength of the crimp depends on the hammer I suppose. I did consider the sledgehammer but decided that was a bit too much!

Just a little tip for anyone using one of those crimp tools......always remember to remove your thumb from the top of the tool first

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[Gizmouk]

Just crimp it using a decent powered (hydraulic/electric/pneumatic) crimp tool, and correctly sized die. Only crimp once.
The hole is there solely to show the lug is fully seated on the conductor.
If you want to put heat shrink to make it look pretty, or for colour coding - that's fine.

Do not put solder anywhere near it.

 

[Neckender]

@Steve and Denise you only want to show off that new flooring.

John.
Ok crimped up looks good View attachment 458473

 

[L' Hobo]

My crimping tool is just like a VERY large pair of two handed pliers and, if the joint is going to be near a damp environment, I dip the end of the wire in some 'copper ease' and then crimp. Red heat shrinks are good on the positive lead leads.

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[JockandRita]

All crimped without a drop of solder anywhere near them, at either end of the cables Steve.

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[msyd]

I have just used one of these.

View attachment 458773

Seemed to do a good job. The strength of the crimp depends on the hammer I suppose. I did consider the sledgehammer but decided that was a bit too much!

This is far and away the most reliable way of achieving a good crimp joint. It avoids any mismatch between the crimp terminal and the hydraulic crimp tool, particularly if the copper wire strands don't perfectly fill the terminal tube before crimping. I used two different hydraulic tools before ending up with the simple hammer tool, and never looked back after that. Test the mechanical strength of your crimped joint before you cover it up with shrink tube. You'll avoid disguising/hiding a poorly made joint - the above comes from bitter experience! You absolutely shouldn't use solder - it can form a point of rigidity in the joint around which the flexible wires may bend and ultimately break through metal fatigue.

 

[Justyn HARRIS]

Do NOT solder wires before crimping, as when you crimp the join the wires will break apart giving a poor joint. A crimped joint cold welds the metals together it completely defeats the object if you solder the wire. Not only would you get a poor joint also it will work loose over time.

Exactly... well said.. obviously an engineer or holder of a time served apprenticeship.. as opposed to a Google education.. lol
Me= a semi retired master tech . Vehicle diagnostic technician.. happy motorhoming

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