AES fridge on EHU

[Boringfrog]

Do I need the gas turned on for a 3 way AES fridge to work, flashing red when gas off, stays green when gas on but think it's running on gas, although I cannot hear it burning.

 

[DavidG58]

We sometimes have odd issues with ours, or we did before having to buy a new fridge ? the AES bit didn’t always work

but if we turned control to fuel source we wanted then back to AES it seemed to sort itself out ?

 

[Deep Owl]

If you are on EHU, use electric. If travelling, i.e. engine on, make sure “battery” is switched in. If neither, e.g. at a supermarket, turn on the gas supply and switch fridge to “gas”, you should hear the gas click on.

 

[Boringfrog]

If you are on EHU, use electric. If travelling, i.e. engine on, make sure “battery” is switched in. If neither, e.g. at a supermarket, turn on the gas supply and switch fridge to “gas”, you should hear the gas click on.

It's fully automatic so cannot choose.

 

[WillH]

I replaced the card on mine to make it manual. Can you not select the supply on the AES anyway?

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[Deep Owl]

It's fully automatic so cannot choose.

Is there really no option for manual override? What make is it?

 

[TheTwoOfUs]

If it's a Domestic electronic there is a manual over ride. Suggest you check the instruction manual.

 

[SandraL]

Boringfrog

Really need make and model for advice. Often a label inside the fridge, perhaps at bottom on back wall behind salad drawer.

 

[Boringfrog]

Boringfrog

Really need make and model for advice. Often a label inside the fridge, perhaps at bottom on back wall behind salad drawer.

It's a RM7505.

 

[Boringfrog]

On or off, nothing else.

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[Boringfrog]

Is there really no option for manual override? What make is it?

RM7505 Dometic

 

[DavidG58]

And presumably switching off and back on doesn’t mend it?

 

[Boringfrog]

And presumably switching off and back on doesn’t mend it?

Yeah, tried that a few times, if gas is off red light starts flashing, I can hear a clunk too, relay maybes?

 

[tonyidle]

I've just taken a look at the Manual on line and there is NO option to override. One fault that is a regular on early AES models is corrosion of the circuit board. Condensation / road spray can enter where the cables enter at the top of the electronic module cover. I'd be tempted to remove the cover and module (via the bottom vent cover?) then unplug all connectors & examine for corrosion. If it is the problem it'll be obvious & if you're lucky a good clean of the area will fix it.

 

[Deep Owl]

Sorry, a much earlier model than mine!

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[errpaul]

Yeah, tried that a few times, if gas is off red light starts flashing, I can hear a clunk too, relay maybes?

Hi Boringfrog. Did you manage to get to the bottom of the fridge problem?

 

[JockandRita]

We had the same model in our old Hymer, and folks wouldn't believe me when I'd explain that it was fully automatic, with no option to choose the power supply.

One of the facilities of these AES fridge/freezers, is that when on EHU, the gas supply should be on, as when the voltage drops below 220v (as often happens at peak times on some Spanish sites, the F/F will click over to gas, assisting the electrical element to maintain the temperature. During the day, you may not experience the changeover, but mornings and evenings, you'll often hear the relay kick in, the igniter sparking a couple of times, then the ignition of the flame. It can be minutes or much longer before you hear the changeover to mains power again. Our Electrolux RM7505 was so reliable, and was twenty years old when it went to it's new home.

Boringfrog, have you managed to suss it out yet?

Cheers,

Jock.

 

[dunnah01]

AES is a pain on my fridge/freezer. Default sequence is 240v / 12v / gas so drained the leisure batteries overnight first day away a few months ago. Have to manually override to gas when not in EHU to avoid the same.

 

[Boringfrog]

We had the same model in our old Hymer, and folks wouldn't believe me when I'd explain that it was fully automatic, with no option to choose the power supply.

One of the facilities of these AES fridge/freezers, is that when on EHU, the gas supply should be on, as when the voltage drops below 220v (as often happens at peak times on some Spanish sites, the F/F will click over to gas, assisting the electrical element to maintain the temperature. During the day, you may not experience the changeover, but mornings and evenings, you'll often hear the relay kick in, the igniter sparking a couple of times, then the ignition of the flame. It can be minutes or much longer before you hear the changeover to mains power again. Our Electrolux RM7505 was so reliable, and was twenty years old when it went to it's new home.

Boringfrog, have you managed to suss it out yet?

Cheers,

Jock.

No I haven't, I wondered if you needed the gas on?

 

[Boringfrog]

Hi Boringfrog. Did you manage to get to the bottom of the fridge problem?

Nope.

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[peterc10]

AES is a pain on my fridge/freezer. Default sequence is 240v / 12v / gas so drained the leisure batteries overnight first day away a few months ago. Have to manually override to gas when not in EHU to avoid the same.

Your fridge is wired incorrectly. It should only be able to select 12v if the engine is running.

 

[dunnah01]

Your fridge is wired incorrectly. It should only be able to select 12v if the engine is running.

Nah - manual is clear on sequence but does warn not to use on 12v unless engine running, which is easy to understand with 20/20 hindsight

 

[funflair]

Nah - manual is clear on sequence but does warn not to use on 12v unless engine running, which is easy to understand with 20/20 hindsight

But it should be wired to only us 12v in that sequence when it has a signal that the engine is running as Peter says.

 

[peterc10]

Nah - manual is clear on sequence but does warn not to use on 12v unless engine running, which is easy to understand with 20/20 hindsight

The 12v energy supply (as opposed to the supply to run the electronics) to your AES fridge is directly wired to your leisure batteries, and that is incorrect. It should be wired to your engine battery via a relay which only switches it on when the engine is running. The whole point of an AES fridge is that it uses 240v if you are on hook up, 12v if the engine is running or gas in all other circumstances.

Some modern fridges enable you to use spare energy from the solar to run on 12v but that will only switch on when it senses your leisure batteries are fully charged.

 

[dunnah01]

The fridge is wired to the CBE control panel which does say that the 3 way function is automatically turned off when the engine is off. I'll need to do a bit of digging to see what that actually means. I very rarely use EHU so no big deal keeping it on gas all the time tbh.

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[peterc10]

I'll need to do a bit of digging to see what that actually means.

It means what I have said above. But clearly there is a problem with the wiring if it allows the 12v to continue when the engine is off.

I very rarely use EHU so no big deal keeping it on gas all the time tbh.

Until you drive into a garage to fill up and somebody using a nearby pump spills some petrol, and your gas flame ignites the fumes. That is why the gas mode in an AES fridge does not switch on until 15 to 20 minutes after you have switched the engine off.

 

[autorouter]

But clearly there is a problem with the wiring if it allows the 12v to continue when the engine is off.

The fridge control board should have a wire to the D+ signal that tells it the alternator is running. The power to the fridge 12V heater element should run from the starter battery/alternator.

Maybe there's no proper D+ signal. A voltage-sensitive relay (VSR) is sometimes used as a substitute. In that case anything that raises the starter battery voltage can trigger the AES into 12V mode. The EHU charger or the solar, for example.

If there's no manual selection then 12V should only be allowed while the engine is running. On my Hymer, the AES functions as you describe. But if I manually switch to 12V it will work from the leisure batteries. Useful on rare occasions, like a ferry or channel tunnel, or if you run out of gas. Downside is it's easy to forget and flatten the batteries.

 

[Theonlysue]

If going from 12v to gas there will be a delay, to allow for refueling in a petrol station without turning on.
Also I think a fridge only has the fas on 1/3rd of the time roughly.

 

[dunnah01]

just had a mess around and can manually select whichever source I want when engine is off, no apparent delay when kicking in either. There's no obvious change to the original wiring from 2010 so must be deliberate by Rapido.

 

[JockandRita]

No I haven't, I wondered if you needed the gas on?

Yes, the gas supply needs to be on, as I explained earlier, as when the mains voltage is insufficient, the gas will automatically kick in. It can't do that if the supply is isolated, hence the rapid flashing of the gas indicator, telling you that there is no gas supply.

It's a very clever and efficient system, when working correctly.

Cheers,

Jock.

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