So how much (1 Viewer)

[Innkeeper]

So what's a good price to start at I was thinking £1000. In truth is that to cheap. For a road bike. Dont mind some upgrades down the road or am I better saving say £1500. This is just a tyre kicking thing at the moment till we get back to work. Also am on about a road bike. More for distance than speed?

 

[Ernesto]

If you're looking at an entry level first road bike, Decathlon are good. Their in-store expertise is limited, but their customer service is fine.

Other alternatives - I would certainly recommend Ribble - based in Preston, they have an excellent website and a couple of showrooms as well. Customer service is excellent and the range is bigger and better. Site is

Ribble Cycles | Leading British Cycle Manufacturer | Bike Shop | Since 1897 | Ribble Cycles | Ribble Cycles

Ribble Cycles is one of the longest established bicycle manufacturers in the world. An Online Bike Shop With Award Winning Bikes.

www.ribblecycles.co.uk

For £1000 you can get a nice Aluminium framed bike or an entry level carbon fibre-framed one. If you're thinking comfort, more than speed, you need to look for frame designs whose geometry is slightly more "upright" so that it takes the pressure off your arms/shoulders/lower back.

The difference between £1000 and £1500 means better components, lighter wheels and better frame quality but you can get a perfectly good road bike for £1000 and upgrade from there - usually starting with the wheels. Depends how confident/handy you are with the tools. Your only other major questions will be disc brakes or the older fashioned rim brakes and whether you'll want to something that only does roads or something that can also do a bit of off-road as well (Gravel trails etc)

 

[Innkeeper]

Got my Halfords bike. The one I use now. So if me and Les want to do a nice romantic woodland trail would use that.
The bike am going to save for would be 100% road.

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[M-J]

Buy a used one, more bang for your buck

<Broken link removed>

 

[Ernesto]

That makes things simpler ?

So first decision is what is it going be made of ....Are you going to "throw" it in the back of the motorhome and take off with it ....? I just bought a bike for where we're away and opted not to buy carbon fibre, because I didn't want to be constantly stressing over bashing it with the BBQ or a chair. If thats the same for you then Aluminium is probably the way forward ...

 

[Ernesto]

There are some great used bargains out there if you know what you want.. just got to be careful buying second hand carbon fibre especially, in case its cracked or damaged and they're not (ahem) entirely open as to why they're selling

These guys offer checks and warranties on everything used, they have some stuff in the more affordable bracket...

Pre-Owned Premium Bicycles

The bike you dreamed of, at a price you can afford, without the worries of buying used or second hand.

roadcycleexchange.com

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[Innkeeper]

That makes things simpler ?

So first decision is what is it going be made of ....Are you going to "throw" it in the back of the motorhome and take off with it ....? I just bought a bike for where we're away and opted not to buy carbon fibre, because I didn't want to be constantly stressing over bashing it with the BBQ or a chair. If thats the same for you then Aluminium is probably the way forward ...

As we full time it will be getting put on the bike rack with the others

 

[funflair]

That makes things simpler ?

So first decision is what is it going be made of ....Are you going to "throw" it in the back of the motorhome and take off with it ....? I just bought a bike for where we're away and opted not to buy carbon fibre, because I didn't want to be constantly stressing over bashing it with the BBQ or a chair. If thats the same for you then Aluminium is probably the way forward ...

Carbon would be easier to repair than alloy though in my opinion.

Martin

 

[Ernesto]

Carbon can often be repaired - there are a few specialists that will do it but it’s expensive. And you’d have to really abuse alloy to ever need a repair. Alloy frames can fail eventually but they’re much more durable in everyday use

If it’s going to be put in a bike rack, I’d definitely suggest an aluminium frame ... carbon frames are very strong but they don’t like to be clamped/squashed.

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[Innkeeper]

So sounds like alloy is the way to go.
Probably doesn't matter at my level but are alloy one much healthier than carbon.
Also would like a new one. As second hand not sure on its history

 

[deleted-member02]

Perhaps look at previous years models as there's an abundance of unsold stock out there?
Models don't change much one year to the next, the 'latest' model will be old stock within months...

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[kevenh]

another vote for Decathlon.
My road bike is their BTWIN in-house brand. I've an Alur 700 2015 that was reduced 20% to ~£599, so the store could get the 2016 model on the shop floor.

For that price I got a decent UCI approved aluminium frame, Shimano 105 compact groupset, carbon fork, and Shimano 105 Direct Mount brakes.

It's too old to be representative of a 2020 bike.
Looking at the current Decathlon range, the TRIBAN RC 520 DISC ROAD BIKE is similar to my Alur 700 but updated to have hydraulic disk brakes.

The Shimano 105 range

has always occupied the low step in their top-tier road groupsets

.
I think that means they're entry level kit for cyclists wanting to get decent performance at low cost.

The bakes fitted to road bikes prior to disk brakes are basically great in the dry but scary in the wet. If you aren't proactively keeping your rim brakes dry when out in the rain expect stopping distances to be 10 times longer!

My Alur has rim brakes but my MTB has disk brakes. They're so different in the wet that my next road bike WILL have disk brakes.

I've rambled a bit, but hopefully assisted

Edit: Sorry, it's always worth looking for deals on last year's bikes. Sometimes the difference between the new & old bike is cosmetic & you still get great deals.
For MTB it's approx August when 2021 bikes will be out that need the old range sold cheap
Maybe road bikes are the same period!

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[Richard n Ann]

I would look for one with internal hub gears, they are so much nicer than a derailleur clicking and slipping about on the back wheel. My bike has the 8 speed alfine hub, brilliant ?

Shimano Alfine Disc Hub review

A new level in hub gear performance

www.bikeradar.com

 

[bigtree]

I would go alloy too but mixed with titanium, 3/2.5. ?
Here’s one well within your budget

 

[kevenh]

I would look for one with internal hub gears, they are so much nicer than a derailleur clicking and slipping about on the back wheel. My bike has the 8 speed alfine hub, brilliant ?

Shimano Alfine Disc Hub review

A new level in hub gear performance

www.bikeradar.com

You've had the 8 speed a few years then I guess.
My 2008 hardtail MTB has an alfine 8-speed. I loved it (it's now mrskevenh's bike).
The afline hub on a newer version of this MTB had gotten 11 speed

The pros of a hub gear sets is:
No derailleur to maintain or even break.
The chain is short and easy to maintain.
Gear changes are mostly smooth - if you remember to stop pedalling.

The main con is the weight.
The heavy hub isn't too worrying for a hybrid or MTB but on a road bike I'd say it is too heavy.

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[Bobby-gg]

Check out https://www.planetx.co.uk/

I keep getting drawn to a ti gravel bike

But my rotator cuff injury is still causing me too much pain atm, so just sticking with my existing ti hardtail

But I'd check them out value against other brands

 

[Richard n Ann]

You've had the 8 speed a few years then I guess.
My 2008 hardtail MTB has an alfine 8-speed. I loved it (it's now mrskevenh's bike).
The afline hub on a newer version of this MTB had gotten 11 speed

The pros of a hub gear sets is:
No derailleur to maintain or even break.
The chain is short and easy to maintain.
Gear changes are mostly smooth - if you remember to stop pedalling.

The main con is the weight.
The heavy hub isn't too worrying for a hybrid or MTB but on a road bike I'd say it is too heavy.

Yes bought it about 5 years ago, it's a Giant hybrid. Was £1100 when new but I paid £400 for it in immaculate unused, never been out the house condition. It's in the shed now gathering dust but I'm never selling it, going to polish it up and get out on it this summer ?

 

[kevenh]

Check out https://www.planetx.co.uk/

I keep getting drawn to a ti gravel bike

But my rotator cuff injury is still causing me too much pain atm, so just sticking with my existing ti hardtail

But I'd check them out value against other brands

Nice bikes but all at a higher entry price than the OP mentioned as his limit ?

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[bigtree]

Another nice bike but this time a hybrid

 

[Ernesto]

For a first bike, I'd suggest sticking with a reputable, large retailer who will be able to help choosing and be there if you need any warranty work or help.

 

[Innkeeper]

Part of me say go to a good shop. That way maybe they could help and hopefully set it up right.
But not is so much cheaper. Was thinking if I got one off net would it be cheeky to then take it to the shop for a check. Gears brakes. I know there would be a charge

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[Ernesto]

Most bike shops would be ok charging a fee to do that no problem. You’ll just need to book it in as they will probably have a wait list of a few days/weeks
But they can only adjust and tweak - you need to find the right bike that fits you and is comfortable for the rides you’re planning especially if you’re planning longer endurance rides.
The best retailers will give you 30 days to ride the bike and then take it back if it’s not 100% right.
But if you feel confident in selecting second hand, it will save you money

 

[Innkeeper]

Well I have at least a few months to research. Probably the end of summer. Really.
Just trying to work out the right way to go.
Disc or rim brakes?
And gears totally lost.
Also a lot dont seem to have as many gears as mine. Could be reading it wrong probably am

 

[Ernesto]

Personally, if you can, go for hydraulic disc brakes. They’ve refined them a lot in the last couple of years and the weight penalty is tiny now, they work much better in the wet, and they don’t scrape and wear out your nice wheel rims like rim brakes do. Rim brakes are still around but not for much lon ger (on new bikes)
Gears - stick to Shimano and you’ll be fine. Cheaper and easy to work on and maintain, reliable and work well. The more you spend the more you get - a little googling will help narrow it down ?

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[Ernesto]

2 front rings/gears, and 11 at the back (22 in all) is the most you’ll ever need.
You might see bikes with 3 chain rings at the front - I’d avoid them - harder to maintain and it’s just too many gears to choose from.

Some newest bikes only have one chainring at front, 11 at back. Simplest to use and maintain - works just fine

 

[PhilMary]

Another happy customer of Ribble bikes. They have an online bike builder which lets you try all combinations and the weight and prices change as you update.
Innkeeper I would suggest as a beginner (to road riding) that an aluminium disc brake frame would be a good starting point.
Also look at Marin as they include Gravel bikes that are mostly road bike but with slightly easier geometry.
Also as said above go to your local bike shop and you'd be surprised how helpful and competitive they can be.
Phil

 

[PhilMary]

2 front rings/gears, and 11 at the back (22 in all) is the most you’ll ever need.
You might see bikes with 3 chain rings at the front - I’d avoid them - harder to maintain and it’s just too many gears to choose from.

Some newest bikes only have one chainring at front, 11 at back. Simplest to use and maintain - works just fine

The triple front comes into its own in steep hilly areas and has the big advantage of being able to run MTB cassettes.
Phil

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[John Barrett]

There are plenty of bargains about. I sold my Giant Escape RX0 still in new condition this year for £300!

Giant Escape RX 0 2012 review - The Bike List

www.thebikelist.co.uk

 

[Ernesto]

The triple front comes into its own in steep hilly areas and has the big advantage of being able to run MTB cassettes.
Phil

I get the hilly bit for triples - For me a compact double chainset with 32T rear cog gives me enough and is lighter, but there are more than one way to skin the cat ??

I reckon this is the future.... a 11-42T cassette on the back, and just the one 40T chainring on the front..... only one lever to worry about and the same low gear ratio as a 30T front, 32T back......??‍

 

[PhilMary]

I get the hilly bit for triples - For me a compact double chainset with 32T rear cog gives me enough and is lighter, but there are more than one way to skin the cat ??

I reckon this is the future.... a 11-42T cassette on the back, and just the one 40T chainring on the front..... only one lever to worry about and the same low gear ratio as a 30T front, 32T back......??‍

Ernesto I also run an 1x11 sram on my gravel bike and am currently using a 42 "dinner plate" on the top of the cassette.
But, I wouldn't take my road bike in places my gravel bike has been, in fact I wouldn't let it see the pot holes in the road as it would come out in a rash ?

Phil

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