My E + P jacks will not deploy (2 Viewers)

Aug 6, 2013
11,956
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Le-Voyageur RX958 Pl
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My take on the OPs fault, based on my experience of conversion wiring, is that it will be an intermittent connection within the conversion wiring. It may be a poor connection within the wiring, at a relay, or at a fuse, but I'd put money on it being nothing to do with any part of the base vehicle.
 

funflair

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Dec 11, 2013
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It was a 50a mega fuse located in the engine battery bay

Dealer said The fuse was partially blown
That size fuse is going to be the output side of the alternator though, the ignition light and D+ is a very low amperage.

Martin
 
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DavidG58
Feb 24, 2013
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My take on the OPs fault, based on my experience of conversion wiring, is that it will be an intermittent connection within the conversion wiring. It may be a poor connection within the wiring, at a relay, or at a fuse, but I'd put money on it being nothing to do with any part of the base vehicle.

abusing your knowledge if I may please, would your scenario affect the dash, I appear to have no battery light or door open alert, possibly others missing that I don't know about o_O

I have no idea where to even start to look TBH, but there are quite a few 'things' under the seats, I might just give them a little tap with a toffee hammer :LOL: only kidding, but will give the fuses and obvious things a visual check over (y)

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Aug 4, 2013
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My husband says he thinks it is maybe a broken wire but more likely a dodgy contact on the relay I am saying this quietly because I havent a clue.
 
Aug 6, 2013
11,956
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Kendal, Cumbria
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As far as l can tell everything you have mentioned requires an engine running signal which, as has been said, is derived from the alternator warning light connection. It is perfectly possjble that a fault on that connection, anywhere on any wiring connected to it, will affect dashboard functions that also rely on it. It may just be that the alternator is faulty but, again, any fault on the alternator could be caused by conversion wiring. You do need the services of someone who is familiar with your particular conversion. You might find the fault by stumbling across it whilst tracing wires or whatever but I'd be hard pressed to explain what you need to do.

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Aug 6, 2013
11,956
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To be fair the steps l would take are:
Check the alternator warning light out put exists and is functioning as it should
Disconnect the wire that taps into the awl circuit and check that the dashboard behaves as it should
Connect 12v to the wire you have just disconnected then check which, if any, conversion services that rely on it actually work
If not trace it to its first connection, then the next, etc
 

funflair

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Dec 11, 2013
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how does it run the fridge then? or is that part of the mystery of fridge operation :)
It's just a trigger signal that switches the fridge to whatever batteries it is wired to, for example our solar regulator emulates the D+ with a milliamp signal to the fridge which acts in the same way as the real D+ the fridge then runs off the leisure batteries.

Martin
 
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DavidG58
Feb 24, 2013
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To be fair the steps l would take are:
Check the alternator warning light out put exists and is functioning as it should
Disconnect the wire that taps into the awl circuit and check that the dashboard behaves as it should
Connect 12v to the wire you have just disconnected then check which, if any, conversion services that rely on it actually work
If not trace it to its first connection, then the next, etc

thanks Tony, that is exactly why I will be getting someone to do it for me, too many things could go wrong if I start to disconnect things (y)

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andy63

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Jan 19, 2014
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Incredible certainly. Fuses can overheat which causes them to disintegrate. They cannot partially blow because the cross-section of the metal in the fuse is designed to melt when the fuse is overloaded. As it begins to melt the cross-section reduces meaning it melts even faster. You know the rest ......... Maybe just a poor choice of words by the dealer.

I've come across 2 fuse that I would have described as partially blown or gone...
Both large maxi fuses 80 amp...
They connected my battery banks together via a 120 amp voltage sensing relay...
The fault was intermittent... the batteries appeared connected at times as indicated by a tell tail led and then not connected...
The fuse even checked out OK with a meter and initially looked OK. .. but in fact it had gone ..
I'd not seen anything like it before but it happened again some months later...
I kept one of the fuses .. I'll attach a picture but don't think you will be able to make it out...
So whatever term you use to describe it it was intermittent. ..or partially blown fuse... it most probably wouldn't have taken any current but didn't easily check out as blown..
Andy
 

andy63

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Forgot the photo:D
20171016_212114.jpg
 

andy63

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Jan 19, 2014
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engine running signal which, as has been said, is derived from the alternator warning light connection.
The engine run signal as provided on ford's anyway.. is provided not by tapping in to the alternator as a source but relies or becomes active under the following conditions...
Ignition on ,engine running at idle , alternator giving an output ,and the system voltage above a certain level...

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DavidG58
Feb 24, 2013
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Morning all, things still not working today, but had a friend who knows enough not to be a danger to himself or my MH has had a look

Been under engine to confirm the output wire is at least connected, but not easy access where it to do much more

As I already knew our electrobloc isn't it is one of these, I do fear I have asked before, what is it please, I need to get a manual, our Hymer book of words only refers to the electrobloc o_O I cant see any words or makers details on this at all, let alone a model number, no doubt stamped on back or bottom where it can't be seen :(

IMG_4074.JPG


IMG_4076.JPG


we can hopefully then identify where the alternator output will be going to, then we can check the voltage there to find out if it the box of trickery or the wire or the alternator

that even sort of makes sense to me :)

I think @Lenny HB you thought it was a Reich?
 
Jul 29, 2013
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Looks like it could be an expensive fix if you have extra leisure batteries.
 

Lenny HB

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Looks like it could be an expensive fix if you have extra leisure batteries.
Those Reich boxes are €849 makes an Elektroblock look cheap.
Don't panic David I don't think it's anything to to with the Reich box.:D

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Kim H

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IMG_2020.JPG
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@DavidG58 We have the instruction manual for the Reich E-Box 2 but it's more of an operators guide. I don't know if it would be any help to you?
 
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Lenny HB

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Jun 30, 2011
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Best of luck David that it is not a very expensive repair, we had to have a new EBL on our S Klasse Hymer, this also has a separate charger to supplement it(under passenger seat, LHD), the supplementary charger also failed at the same time so needed one of those too.
 
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DavidG58
Feb 24, 2013
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@Kim H many thanks, that is identical to ours (y) so glad you bought one, this is at least the second, probably third time I have used your input , at least your dealer / owner passed on all the paperwork, still waiting to offer reciprocal guidance (y)(y)

BTW do you have a black tank or standard cassette ? setting you up for question number 4 :)

I will try and down load a manual for the box now that you have confirmed what I need, really need to know which input the alternator output goes to

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DavidG58
Feb 24, 2013
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Looks like it could be an expensive fix if you have extra leisure batteries.

No but Iwas looking at the link given by @lunarman and it's not good reading.

I was thinking very much the same, we do exactly what is says not to do o_O permanent hook up at home

Best of luck David that it is not a very expensive repair, we had to have a new EBL on our S Klasse Hymer, this also has a separate charger to supplement it(under passenger seat, LHD), the supplementary charger also failed at the same time so needed one of those too.

we do at least have the secondary battery charger although at present we are down to one battery anyway, another story in another thread :(

thanks for the interest and support, it really is appreciated
 
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DavidG58
Feb 24, 2013
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Those Reich boxes are €849 makes an Elektroblock look cheap.
Don't panic David I don't think it's anything to to with the Reich box.:D


funnily enough I have priced an alternator at not a lot less if I buy brand new, which I probably would do if done through Mercedes, that is plus fitting, but so would be the new Reich or Elekroblock, that wouldn't be an easy swap I would think o_O

heres hoping its the simple thing we haven't found yet :)(y)
 

Lenny HB

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@Kim H many thanks, that is identical to ours (y) so glad you bought one, this is at least the second, probably third time I have used your input , at least your dealer / owner passed on all the paperwork, still waiting to offer reciprocal guidance (y)(y)

BTW do you have a black tank or standard cassette ? setting you up for question number 4 :)

I will try and down load a manual for the box now that you have confirmed what I need, really need to know which input the alternator output goes to
I couldn't find a manual online & Reich don't have any downloads for manuals but as I said before I doubt if it is anything to do with the Reich box.

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Kim H

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BTW do you have a black tank or standard cassette ? setting you up for question number 4

I'm glad it's not question number 2, or we'd have to start a whole new thread along with A frames and gassing :LOL: Yes we have a black tank. Wondering what your question is going to be :rolleyes:

Anthony says he can scan the manual and upload it to the resources section.
 
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DavidG58
Feb 24, 2013
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I couldn't find a manual online & Reich don't have any downloads for manuals but as I said before I doubt if it is anything to do with the Reich box.

I hope so too, but seems a sensible place to start looking for the right voltage in the right place
 

Lenny HB

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I hope so too, but seems a sensible place to start looking for the right voltage in the right place
I am sure you will find some relay boxes too many things work of the D+ terminal to be connected directly.

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