Will asymetric chocking damage my suspension?

[Old Barrian]

My motorhome suffers from 'ponding' of rainwater in the nearside front corner of the roof between the overcab 'hump' and the awning housing. When parking up for the winter, I was planning to use a single chock under the front nearside wheel to improve the drainage but it occurs to me that chocking just one wheel for a lengthy period could induce some sort of twist in the suspension. Am I worrying unnecessarily?

 

[Figaro]

I think you are, providing it's not excessive.
I take it by chocking you mean to put a levelling ramp under one wheel, rather than just a chock to prevent it moving ?

 

[Old Barrian]

Thanks for the prompt, and reassuring, response. You are right that I was thinking of a levelling ramp rather than a simple chock.

 

[Landy Andy]

I always store mine with the front parked on blocks to keep the water off the roof.

Why not use two ramps?

 

[The Old Man]

Many vans on the storage site are unlevelled in the way you are suggesting, but if it has an adverse effect, I do not know, sorry.

Personally I park up with both front wheels on the 'Sausage' kerb that denotes my parking bay.

Additionally during the Winter months I take the van for a 30 minute drive every week and always the day after heavy rains. Just to blow any water off the roof, put a small charge into the batteries, air the interior and engine compartment.

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[SIFTA SAM]

I always store mine with the front parked on blocks to keep the water off the roof.

Why not use two ramps?

Ditto!

 

[TerryL]

Our bay in storage has a natural slope so I can leave it on all four wheels and rainwater just runs off without help. Leave it in gear, chocked and handbrake off (not a steep slope, just enough).

Given the strength of the chassis to put up with all sorts of raod conditions I should imagine parking it with one corner up ought to be okay, nevertheless I try to avoid that even when on a site etc.

 

[Engineer999]

I dad the same concerns raised, based around the long term compression of one of the front shock absorbers and weather this may result in deterioration of the seals. I have chosen to take that theoretical(?) risk in preference to allowing water to pool at the joint between the main body and the cab roof and the resultant increased potential of a water leak developing.
My neighbour, a very experienced motorcycle mechanic, had had issues with transporting bikes strapped down with their front struts fully compressed and suggested that this could be the same. I tried researching this issue on the internet but in the end came to the conclusion that with the bikes it was the shock loading during transport that was the issue with the seals, not the static load.

 

[Engineer999]

I had the same concerns raised, based around the long term compression of one of the front shock absorbers and weather this may result in deterioration of the seals. I have chosen to take that theoretical(?) risk in preference to allowing water to pool at the joint between the main body and the cab roof and the resultant increased potential of a water leak developing.
My neighbour, a very experienced motorcycle mechanic, had had issues with transporting bikes strapped down with their front struts fully compressed and suggested that this could be the same. I tried researching this issue on the internet but in the end came to the conclusion that with the bikes it was the shock loading during transport that was the issue with the seals, not the static load.

 

[Jamesh]

I wouldn't lift up one corner tbh.

Not so much re the suspension but rather the body.

Such a move could easily damage the sealant in any number of joints, esp on older vans with traditional construction or dried sealant.

I'd lift by either axles or side.

Cheers James

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[Badknee]

I wouldn't lift up one corner tbh.

Not so much re the suspension but rather the body.

Such a move could easily damage the sealant in any number of joints, esp on older vans with traditional construction or dried sealant.

I'd lift by either axles or side.

Cheers James

#metoo.

 

[L' Hobo]

I would use two, front, back or side, trapped frozen water can cause problems on a twisted chassis but better still, as has been suggested, take it for a run, for AT LEAST, half hour, EVERY week or so.

Find somewhere nice, park up and have a nice cup of tea. Do you, and the van, a world of good!

 

[Jake Royd]

Speaking as a retired automotive design and development engineer I can't see that this would cause any problem.
The spring is not going to develop any permanent set , it's still well inside it's elastic limit.
It's not relevant where a seal and piston are stationary relative to the dampers working stroke.
If the structural integrity of the body is a problem then it's going to fall apart on the road due to the dynamic inputs.
Dynamic loads are always more damaging than static loads in the sense that you will just have a higher static load on that corner due to slightly more spring compression. The spring load will be higher but the wheel loads and axle weights will be the same.
IMHO

 

[St3v3]

I dad the same concerns raised, based around the long term compression of one of the front shock absorbers and weather this may result in deterioration of the seals.

A shock isn't like a spring, after it's moved, pressure will equalise in the top and bottom so there won't be any extra pressure on the seal. If anything, there is less of the shaft exposed to the elements, so might actually be better.

Spring and anti-roll bar, maybe, but it'll take years.

with the bikes it was the shock loading during transport that was the issue with the seals, not the static load.

No different to when on the road from a load point of view, better if anything because the van suspension is absorbing some. I wonder if it was the seals moving on higher up pitted parts of the shaft (that wouldn't normally be used) and being damaged....

 

[Tombola]

No, it wont cause any issues, and wont "seize" or stick.
If that is a concern just remember a slight breeze will cause slight movement to the compressed shocks/springs.

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[grasscutter]

Ensure your tyre pressures are high on the chocked up wheel.
When I moved I put the van up on rear levellers and it sat there for a few months whilst we carried out refurbishing the house.
When I took it for an MoT it failed on the rear tyres being deformed.
Just worth mentioning.

 

[Landy Andy]

Rather than using the camping level chock, I raise mine with big lumps of wood, so the tyre sits on it the same as if it was on the road.

 

[L' Hobo]

Rather than using the camping level chock, I raise mine with big lumps of wood, so the tyre sits on it the same as if it was on the road.

Or, jack it up enough so that the tyre is JUST touching the ground and put it on an axle stand.
Added security as they will have to remove the stand before driving away?

 

[PP Bear]

I’d use 2 for sure. Who knows the damage that this could cause over a length of time.

if you use the 2, then won’t the rain cascade off the rear instead and reduces your worries.

 

[Old Barrian]

They say that if you ask two economists a question, you'll get three answers. It seems that Funsters are the just the same but thanks for all your suggestions which have provided foo for thought.

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[Wabs]

i have always cherry picked advice from the Funsters ( who all know more than I do), and normally come to a decision based on that, that way I can’t blame anyone for my personal screw ups, however, I wouldn’t be without the advice I have gained from our site here