Why does it do that?

[GAVLAD]

Why does my control panel (Euramobil) show the habitation battery volt level and the vehicle battery volt level when there’s no vehicle battery connected?
I have solar panels and these are currently topping up the habitation batteries.

 

[DavidG58]

no idea, but I do know that the cab battery would never have 13.5V without being connected to some charge

why would you think the cab battery has not been connected to the controller?

 

[Lenny HB]

Output from the solar regulator to the cab battery? Even with no battery fitted the cables would be connected do it would read the solar voltage.

 

[GAVLAD]

I took the vehicle battery out to bring home and place on charge as it was flat.
Before putting the battery back on I checked the control panel and that is what it read.

The solar panels are connected to the habitation batteries.

 

[funflair]

The little two batteries connected symbol on the control panel is telling you that something like a CBE CSB2 is connecting to the starter battery, so basically as Lenny says.

Martin

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[GAVLAD]

Ok thanks everyone.
And now for my
Next question, I’ve connected the fully charged vehicle battery and can clock has come on ok.
However, on trying to start the engine, first, the digital dash odometer & clock show strongly but on turning the key, the figures go faded and there’s no turning/cranking of the engine.
No dash lights (oil etc)
Then on turning the key back to off, the odometer & clock come back showing as strong appearance as normal.

So I know it’s not my starter battery, how can I check whether it’s the starter or can fiat factory fit immobiliser kick in?

 

[Richard n Ann]

Ok thanks everyone.
And now for my
Next question, I’ve connected the fully charged vehicle battery and can clock has come on ok.
However, on trying to start the engine, first, the digital dash odometer & clock show strongly but on turning the key, the figures go faded and there’s no turning/cranking of the engine.
No dash lights (oil etc)
Then on turning the key back to off, the odometer & clock come back showing as strong appearance as normal.

So I know it’s not my starter battery, how can I check whether it’s the starter or can fiat factory fit immobiliser kick in?

Try tightening the connectors on the starter battery.

 

[GAVLAD]

They're as tight as they can be

 

[pappajohn]

I think if it was the Fiat immob you would have nothing at all.... No dash, no starter... Nothing.

As said, check battery connections first, then engine to body earth strap, then starter terminals for corrosion.
One of the above may have been the initial problem and not a flat battery.

 

[GAVLAD]

Thanks everyone - I shall double check the above suggestions tomorrow when I revisit the Motorhome

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[WillH]

The battery, though apparently fully charged, can show a good voltage but when a load is placed on it there is no power, i.e the battery is duff.

 

[funflair]

Just because the battery is fully charged it may not have the capacity to start the engine, as it has been flat it could be buggered. Assuming all connections are tight that would be my guess.

Martin

 

[Lenny HB]

The battery dead, voltage may have come up on charge but not capable of delivering the high current needed for starting, thats why the dash lights go out when you try starting as the voltage collapses.

 

[GAVLAD]

The battery, though apparently fully charged, can show a good voltage but when a load is placed on it there is no power, i.e the battery is duff.

I took the battery to my local garage who did a battery test on it and they said it was in fully working order. I was going to send it back as I only bought it last month but they said I had to get it tested and send the report to them before they’d refund or exchange it. So I know that the battery is all working/ok.

 

[Paul an Jane MK]

So just to clarify you bought the vehicle battery a few weeks ago but you had to remove it from vehicle to charge it as it was flat.

In normal circumstances a brand new battery would not go flat that quick just being sat there unless there was a considerable drain or a short circuit.

When was vehicle last started?

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[GAVLAD]

So just to clarify you bought the vehicle battery a few weeks ago but you had to remove it from vehicle to charge it as it was flat.

In normal circumstances a brand new battery would not go flat that quick just being sat there unless there was a considerable drain or a short circuit.

When was vehicle last started?

No, the old battery was flat due to the Motorhome being stored over winter. Normally I check it every 2wks but I’ve been busy with a new house move. I took the old battery off to charge it at home but it wouldn’t hold its charge so bought a new battery.
I fit the new battery and the Motorhome started after fitting it so thought all was ok.
I revisited the Motorhome 3wks later and I couldn’t start the Motorhome.
Thinking that the new battery could be faulty, I took it off, brought it home and put it on charge. In meantime, I enquired about exchanging it, hence taking it to a local garage for them to test it.
There’s nothing wrong with the new battery.

Whether there’s a drain on the battery or not, that can’t be the reason for the Motorhome not being able to start today as the battery was fully charged. I even took my volt meter to double check it whilst it was fit.

 

[movan]

.... just when I thought I was beginning to get my head round batteries.

Fink you are all very clever to be able to even have this conversation. Well done.

 

[Lenny HB]

I took the battery to my local garage who did a battery test on it and they said it was in fully working order. I was going to send it back as I only bought it last month but they said I had to get it tested and send the report to them before they’d refund or exchange it. So I know that the battery is all working/ok.

Sounds like the standard battery warranty scam, test it on a tester that is nothing like real world use, tell the customer it's fine and refuse to exchange.

 

[Sandancers]

How about switching on the headlights, main beam, radio, heater fans, etc and then try and sound the horn ? If the lights are real dim and the horn is a weak little beep then it's something to do with the battery and / or it's connections, but probably rules out the starter being faulty. However if the lights are blinding and you have a good solid horn then probably battery and connections are OK and you should look to the starter motor.

 

[Thesheas]

If you have breakdown cover, give them a call. That's what they are there for and that's what they do all day, so will probably have you up and running in no time.

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[Richard n Ann]

then engine to body earth strap,

This is what I'd be looking at next too. I read somewhere the earth straps on motorhomes can be inadequate and fail.

 

[GAVLAD]

Thanks everyone well today we went back to the storage. Vehicle battery showing 13v and leisure batteries showing 14.3v with solar working ok.
Engine wouldn’t start.
Turned ignition key and nothing
Dash clock and odometer showing but when turning the key they went out blank.
No noise from starter or anything I daylight led lights
Tested vehicle battery and still ok. Tested the terminals under the bonnet and they were ok.
Tested all fuses and all ok
Unplugged relays and replugged under bonnet and all ok
Tried jump starting from 3l diesel car and starter made one slight turn noise and daylight led lights in bumper came on but went off as soon as key turned off but didn’t start.
Checked all terminals on battery with meter and all ok.
Tried earthing onto engine and testing with meter onto engine from negative and all ok
Tried jump starting with negative clamp onto engine and still wouldn’t start.
So called green flag who arrived within 30mins.
He jump started it from his transit van and left leads on for 10mins before turning key. Engine made more noise and effort to start but didn’t.
So he then put a jump pack battery on in addition to jump leads and then it started straight away.
He advised us to keep it running for 30mins and suggested we get new battery retested and check starter and alternator.
So he left and we kept it running for over 30mins and then said let’s turn it off and try it again now and
Nothing - wouldn’t start.
This time though, upon turning key back to off, the Speedo needles and gauge needles on the dash flickered.
Tried jumping off car again but nothing.
Then, we heard a clicking noise coming from behind the dash and the needles on dash were flickering again but constantly
Decided to disconnect negative terminal and have left it.
Booked it into a garage next week and will take 2 cars and try jumping off 2 cars otherwise looks like it will be a tow job.
Incidentally green flag said they wouldn’t come out to the same fault if it occurred within 28 days.
I’ll keep you all posted - very frustrating day so far!

 

[GAVLAD]

Got an update for you all.
Revisited my mh in storage this morning armed with a voltmeter.
Battery terminals were showing 12.78volts
Then kept Meyer on negative terminal but placed positive on various parts of the battery fuse plate and part was showing zero voltage.
Also, tested both sides of each fuse and one showed zero volts.

It turns out that although the bolt securing the positive clamp on the battery was fully tightened, the clamp was not fully tightened up onto the terminal. We took off the clamp and gave it a slight squeeze and then put it back onto the terminal making sure it was seated to the bottom of the terminal. This seemed to cure areas of the plate that were earlier showing zero volts.
Then we tested the fuse which was showing zero - this was the red midi fuse (50amp)
Tested the fuse across with the meter and nothing.
Wired the cable onto the other bolt minus the fuse and the engine started immediately.
So, disconnected the cable and I’ve brought home the faulty fuse and just placed an order and some spares of these types of fuses.
It’s provably saved £100 in a garage bill so we’ll suited!
Thanks to all of you for your contributions.

 

[Abacist]

Well done - electrical faults are so infuriating!

 

[GAVLAD]

Thanks.
I think that the plastic plate which fastens onto the positive terminal and has all of these fuses attached is not robust enough to avoid the fuses breaking. This is the first time I’ve come across this type of fuse and upon looking for a replacement, I noticed that you can buy a plastic housing where this type of fuse sits within. If the fuse breaks again I may invest in the plastic housing. Having said that, it’s the first time that one has broke so hopefully it’ll be a while before another goes.

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