Water pump keeps running? Help please?

ambulancekidd

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Ayrshire Scotland
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Swift Kon-Tiki 640
Exp
Since 1964 Gosh that makes me feel old.
Refilled the water system in our elderly Swift Kon-tiki, flushed it through a few times, tried the water heater on gas & leccy, all good.
Problem is though that the pump just keeps running, even when the taps are closed, its a pressure drop activation system, not the microswitch effort.
Got a feeling I'm missing something.

Idea's please folks, TIA...Robert
 
If no taps or drains open then it must be the switch in the top of the pump. A small diaphragm I believe. You can adjust the sensitivity with the screw on top (Shurflo).
Hence I think you can also buy replacement diaphragms for the switch part? Open it, might just need freeing up?
 
Problem can be either end.

Inlet: if an air leak can be sucking air so not enough pressure.
Outlet: not building up pressure. Can be air trapped ( open all taps and shower ), or pump faulty so can't build up or detect full pressure.

Our dealer pissed about with ours for most of a year. Each time it worked for a while, eventually a new pump and all was perfect.

They're not that expensive, splash out on a new pump and if it is piping you at least have a spare.

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As what hilldweller said, plus:

There should be a non return valve (NRV) on the inlet to the boiler with associated clear plastic pipe exiting through the floor of the van. The NRV allows water from the boiler to disharge freely when the dump valve opens (ie. no vacuum). If the NRV is faulty the pump will detect a decrease in pressure in the system and trigger the pump. If the NRV is faulty you should see water discharging from the clear plastic tube under the van. A simple test but worth checking. Something you can eliminate if no water disharge observed.
 
No disrespect Robert, it proper old tech and pretty simple to troubleshoot. if it's a pressurised system and no leaks, then it's either an air issue or the pump isn't making pressure

Much prefer it to some of the more modern van systems
 
No disrespect Robert, it proper old tech and pretty simple to troubleshoot. if it's a pressurised system and no leaks, then it's either an air issue or the pump isn't making pressure

Much prefer it to some of the more modern van systems
As per TheBig 1 Rob


No pressure pump runs continuously. Open ended or leak...pump will run.

Remove the lines off and blank off. Run pump. If it keeps going....pumps bolloxed! By that the diaphragm in the pumping bit or valves that is are failing-to see pressure.
If the pump shuts off when the line is blanked off....check for a leak in the circuit somewhere after the pump. Do this by isolating the system systematically. Remove a part and blank off. Check...refit if ok . Remove another part then blank off until the suspect bit is found!

Kev
 
Are your batteries low? On our pressure switched one, if the battery was low it wouldn’t build up sufficient pressure to switch off.

Usually a screw adjuster on the pressure switch, or try it with a fully charged battery or when on hook up.

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Boiler dump valve open?
System isn't losing a drop of water anywhere mate.
Shower button still on???
Tisn't the shower Ian, all systems working perfectly just pump wont stop but, now got plenty to check tomorrow.
Our dealer pissed about with ours for most of a year. Each time it worked for a while, eventually a new pump and all was perfect.

They're not that expensive, splash out on a new pump and if it is piping you at least have a spare.
Might well come to that, I'll check the actual pump tomorrow.
No disrespect Robert, it proper old tech and pretty simple to troubleshoot. if it's a pressurised system and no leaks, then it's either an air issue or the pump isn't making pressure

Much prefer it to some of the more modern van systems
No splutters from the pipes, water running freely, I'll investigate more & keep you posted.
As per TheBig 1 Rob


No pressure pump runs continuously. Open ended or leak...pump will run.

Remove the lines off and blank off. Run pump. If it keeps going....pumps bolloxed! By that the diaphragm in the pumping bit or valves that is are failing-to see pressure.
If the pump shuts off when the line is blanked off....check for a leak in the circuit somewhere after the pump. Do this by isolating the system systematically. Remove a part and blank off. Check...refit if ok . Remove another part then blank off until the suspect bit is found!

Kev
Cheers Kev, dunno what I'd do without this forum sometimes.
Are your batteries low? On our pressure switched one, if the battery was low it wouldn’t build up sufficient pressure to switch off.

Usually a screw adjuster on the pressure switch, or try it with a fully charged battery or when on hook up.
Ta muchly, battery tested today & comes up as A1, I'm really enjoying tweaking this old girl, exhaust refitted today & a deep wash before polishing has began.
 
Funnily enough, Robert, we get the same problem nearly every time we fill with water (after having drained down in storage).
We've been lucky so far in that after letting the pump "over-run" for a minute or two we turn off the power to it, wait and minute or two and turn it back on and it works OK.
We did have an issue a while back where the water on the input side seemed to be draining back down into the tank but it seemed to clear itself (think it may have been a bit of grit in the pump diaphragm but ......?
 
Sounds like the diaphragm is sticking on one of the taps so won't let pressure build up. if the system has been drained down it could just be a dry rubber, Put your finger under each tap( one at a time!) and block the pressure, when the pump turns off you have found the problem tap and a simple repair or replace tap block, for the shower take of the head and block the hose.

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If you have the micro switch system then turn the temp control/ on off switch to the left or right slightly.
i have a similar problem with the kitchen tap. The cam is worn
 
If it's a Whale system get phone number off Web , give them a ring they are very helpful, and will email you Instructions
 
This is a common issue. Normally found after the water system has been sitting for a while.
1. Make sure you have a full tank of water.
2. Get under the van and make sure the water pipe from the tank to the pump is connected and IN GOOD CONDITION. I.e. no splits.
3. Check your inlet filter bowl is clean and no crap on the gauze.
4. If all above is ok then open and close the dump valve while the pump is running a few times (s**t under the valve seat).
5. If no luck. Save your money and buy a new pump assembly.
Not cheap but they do a lot of work and have valves less reliable than out hearts but work the same way!
Good luck and if you need anymore useful info p.m. me.
 
P.s. if you have recently cleaned the fresh water system with a propriety cleaning additive then this has probably caused your problem as they de-scale everything and it ends up with pump/pressure switch problems. Best to just use tap water as it has all the additives you will ever need for your water system without poisioning yourself unless the water system has been standing for more than 6 months or so. In that case.....problems.

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