Victron Bluetooth what do the figures mean. (1 Viewer)

[lorger]

While in at VanBitz the other day I purchased the Bluetooth adapter for the Victron 75/15 and although I think I know what all the figures mean I’m just looking for confirmation.
these screenshots were taken today with no hookup just solar.
I assume the W is how much is going back in, the battery V is the V in the battery.
State changed so not 100% sure what each means.
Load output I think is what I’m using on 12V

 

[Robert Clark]

Pic 1,2 &3 show that that batteries are almost fully charged as they are in absorption mode

Pics 4 & 5 are in float mode as the batteries are now fully charged

load output should be turned off in settings.

 

[DBK]

To be pedantic the wattage figure is what the solar panels are generating, rounded off. The wattage going into the batteries is slightly less. For example, the first screen shows 32W but only about 29W are going into the batteries. However, although the voltage is reported with some precision, the current (amps) is reported more crudely so I wouldn't worry about the exact detail.

The system is working. All seems well.

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[lorger]

Thanks Robert Clark why does load output need to be off.

 

[funflair]

The "load" output terminals are a bit specialist and we don't tend to use them hence Roberts suggestion to turn it off.

 

[The Wino]

The load output terminals on the controller are only used if you have something you want to connect directly to not through the battery in the MH theres nothing like that usually.

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[lorger]

Thanks for the replies.

 

[LiquidLunch]

What does it mean when the state says Bulk??

 

[Robert Clark]

What does it mean when the state says Bulk??

Bulk means that the batteries are sufficiently discharged to be able to take full charge.

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[autorouter]

What does it mean when the state says Bulk??

Victron Solar controllers are proper multistage intelligent chargers. These have three basic stages, called Bulk, Absorption and Float. Bulk takes the full amps output, and the voltage slowly rises until it reaches the 'absorption voltage'. At that point it switches to the Absorption stage, which is constant voltage, and the amps slowly reduces until it hits a predefined level. The controller then considers it fully charged, and switches to Float mode, which keeps it fully charged without overcharging..

Absorption voltage is about 14.4V, and float voltage is about 13.4 to 13.6V, but the exact values depend on the battery profile chosen.

The load terminals are intended for applications like street lights, road signs, CCTV cameras etc which can have automatic on/off periods. In motorhomes they are not connected, and can be ignored, either on or off.

 

[ManTheVan]

A really clear explanation!

 

[G-RMPS]

I recently acquired the same app together with a solar panel and battery master from Vanbitz. When the app refers to “battery” what would that mean in my case, with a cab battery and two leisure batteries?

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[Robert Clark]

I recently acquired the same app together with a solar panel and battery master from Vanbitz. When the app refers to “battery” what would that mean in my case, with a cab battery and two leisure batteries?

The solar will be connected to the leisure battery as the Victron unit only has one battery output
The battery master will provide a trickle charge from the leisure battery to the engine battery if the leisure battery is sufficiently charged

 

[G-RMPS]

Thanks. As I have two leisure batteries, I assume “battery” refers to the combination.

 

[Robert Clark]

Thanks. As I have two leisure batteries, I assume “battery” refers to the combination.

Yes, so long as they are connected together

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[G-RMPS]

Thanks again!

 

[cmcardle75]

The load output terminals on the controller are only used if you have something you want to connect directly to not through the battery in the MH theres nothing like that usually.

I'm intending to connect my fridge to them when I eventually install the solar system (assuming the Victron controller's load terminals operate independently from the actual solar charging). That way I can protect against running battery below 50% (the fridge has low voltage sensing already, but at too low a voltage for my comfort, something like 11.8V).

 

[The Wino]

I'm intending to connect my fridge to them when I eventually install the solar system (assuming the Victron controller's load terminals operate independently from the actual solar charging). That way I can protect against running battery below 50% (the fridge has low voltage sensing already, but at too low a voltage for my comfort, something like 11.8V).

If its a 3way fridge doesn't that mean your batteries won't get charged or are you allowing for that in the settings?

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[cmcardle75]

If its a 3way fridge doesn't that mean your batteries won't get charged or are you allowing for that in the settings?

3 way fridge should not be run off 12V except via alternator. It is too inefficient. It is a compressor fridge. I intend to run off the solar load terminals so that I can fiddle with the voltage thresholds and not run my battery down low just for the fridge, and then lose lighting, heating, water pump etc.

 

[Robert Clark]

3 way fridge should not be run off 12V except via alternator. It is too inefficient. It is a compressor fridge. I intend to run off the solar load terminals so that I can fiddle with the voltage thresholds and not run my battery down low just for the fridge, and then lose lighting, heating, water pump etc.

A battery protection device would prevent the batteries being drained too far, though you’d then lose all your 12v supply.

 

[cmcardle75]

A battery protection decide would prevent the batteries being drained too far, though you’d then lose all your 12v supply.

Yeah. I was wanting to set up the Victron to cut the fridge relatively early as being less essential than the rest (and a power hog, too). I haven't investigated its power output facilities, though, and whether they can be programmed to do what I want.

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[Robert Clark]

Yeah. I was wanting to set up the Victron to cut the fridge relatively early as being less essential than the rest (and a power hog, too). I haven't investigated its power output facilities, though, and whether they can be programmed to do what I want.

In our van we have two sets of leisure batteries.
The main one is fed by solar and is purely set up to supply our inverter
This leaves a separate battery soley for the 12v circuits
This set up prevents the inverter from drianing the main leisure battery leaving us without 12v

 

[Wizz]

I am very new to all this, having taken delivery of my van in the pandemic, and having had very little time in it, much like most others.
I am on a steep learning curve with pretty much all of it, trying to get my head around it bit by bit.
I'd be really grateful if someone could cast their eye over the data for my solar input.
I have - 110 WATT Solar panel, 120A Lithium Battery, and Battery master.
I live south-east, the van has been on EHU through the very cold spell, but OFF EHU for the last few sunny
days, totally reliant on solar alone.
Are my results as should be expected ?
Thanks..

 

[autorouter]

Looks OK to me. Batteries are fully charged, the controller is in Float mode, keeping the batteries fully charged without overcharging. See post 10 of this thread for an explanation of the bulk, absorption and float stages.

Motorhome solar setups don't behave like house solar setups. On a house, solar panels always generate as much power as possible, and feed any excess unused power into the electricity grid. On a motorhome, if the batteries are full and there's no significant load, the solar controller reduces the generated power to almost zero. That's what we're looking at here.

I think the 'Consumption' line shows how much power is consumed through the 'Load' terminals of the solar controller. In motorhomes, nothing is connected to the 'Load' terminals, so this will always read zero.

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[Wizz]

Autorouter,
Many thanks