Using a powerbank to run the motorhome

TiredRob

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Hi,

This may sound like a dumb question, but...

I have an Ecoflow Delta Pro powerbank, which gives me all the 240v I need - but means I have to run extension leads from the garage to wherever I actually want power.

Could I just feed power into the 240 socket in my garage section, to supply the rest of the 240v sockets in the van?

TIA
 
Hi,

This may sound like a dumb question, but...

I have an Ecoflow Delta Pro powerbank, which gives me all the 240v I need - but means I have to run extension leads from the garage to wherever I actually want power.

Could I just feed power into the 240 socket in my garage section, to supply the rest of the 240v sockets in the van?

TIA
No, you will bypass any RCD protection and if using a double plug lead will create a massive shock risk.

Will it work, yes.

Should it be done, no.

Can you just use it to plug into the normal hook up inlet? Turn the heater and fridge to gas manually?
 
Could I just feed power into the 240 socket in my garage section, to supply the rest of the 240v sockets in the van?
As Googlebot says, definitely not a good idea. However there is an easy alternative. If you look at your motorhome mains inlet connector, the round blue 16A one, you'll notice it's a plug, ie it has three pins. The EHU cable has a round blue 16A socket on the end which connects to it. You can install another round blue connector in the garage, which is also a plug just like the mains inlet connector. Also you need a changeover switch, that switches the motorhome electrics to either the normal mains inlet or your new inlet from the power bank. Obviously you will also need a short adapter lead that goes from the power bank 13A socket to the new round blue motorhome inlet you just installed.

The changeover switch will ensure that the normal mains inlet is isolated when the power bank is switched in, and also that the power bank is isolated when the normal mains inlet is in use. This arrangement is quite common when a generator is used, and is ideal for a power bank too. You can look up 'generator transfer switch' to find a suitable switch, maybe like this one:
Some people even install a relay that automatically switches to mains hookup supply whenever it is connected, and back to the power bank when the mains hookup is disconnected.
 
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As Googlebot says, definitely not a good idea. However there is an easy alternative. If you look at your motorhome mains inlet connector, the round blue 16A one, you'll notice it's a plug, ie it has three pins. The EHU cable has a round blue 16A socket on the end which connects to it. You can install another round blue connector in the garage, which is also a plug just like the mains inlet connector. Also you need a changeover switch, that switches the motorhome electrics to either the normal mains inlet or your new inlet from the power bank. Obviously you will also need a short adapter lead that goes from the power bank 13A socket to the new round blue motorhome inlet you just installed.

The changeover switch will ensure that the normal mains inlet is isolated when the power bank is switched in, and also that the power bank is isolated when the normal mains inlet is in use. This arrangement is quite common when a generator is used, and is ideal for a power bank too. You can look up 'generator transfer switch' to find a suitable switch, maybe like this one:
Some people even install a relay that automatically switches to mains hookup supply whenever it is connected, and back to the power bank when the mains hookup is disconnected.
This is what I did with autorouter ‘s guidance. Works well 👍👍
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Then after you have done what is stated above put a load of solar on the roof run the cables down in to a XT-60 connector & plug in to keep it fully charged.
 
I did this from my lesiure batteries inverter when I had a problem abroad, and just took the cable out the window, into the EHU inlet for a few days.

Didnt half get asked some questions when at gravelines with my ehu coming out the van then back in :LOL:
but as said, make sure your charger and fridge are not set to electric
 
I do it whenever there's a power cut at home.
Crank up the Genny and plug into a kitchen socket.
The RCD and mcbs work regardless of which way the current is flowing.
I've proved this by reversing the incoming live and neutral at my garage consumer unit main switch then introducing a fault
Remember to turn off the main switch at home as if power is restored it could damage the Genny.
 
Then after you have done what is stated above put a load of solar on the roof run the cables down in to a XT-60 connector & plug in to keep it fully charged.
And this too 👍👍. Plus 400 watts of portable panels. Using the same selector switch as above means you can send the panels solar voltage to either the power bank or another solar controller for you leisure battery. Ecoflow should be good with panels of varying open circuit voltage. Ones like the anker are a little more picky but all the info is on the spec sheets for the power banks.
 
I do it whenever there's a power cut at home.
Crank up the Genny and plug into a kitchen socket.
The RCD and mcbs work regardless of which way the current is flowing.
I've proved this by reversing the incoming live and neutral at my garage consumer unit main switch then introducing a fault
Remember to turn off the main switch at home as if power is restored it could damage the Genny.
What about the circuit you are plugged into? That has no RCD protection. You also risk electrocuting the poor sod trying to fix your power supply if you forget to trip the mains switch off.

Not to mention the live plug should you forget to switch off the socket or generator.

Yes, it works, but it is inherently unsafe. It isn’t even that expensive to wire in a proper changeover and do it in complete safety.
 
Crank up the Genny and plug into a kitchen socket.
Sounds like a good idea in an emergency. But unintended things do happen and you would be criminally liable.
A friend of mine some years ago changed a blown fuse as a favour in a neighbours twin tub washing machine plug. She used it the following day in bare feet on a stone floor. It had an earth fault and she was electrocuted and died. He was tried and convicted of manslaughter and got a prison sentence. Because he had not done a full electrical safety check on the washing machine after changing the blown fuse.
Anybody could come in and remove that plug with live pins without your knowledge or you could forget to turn off the main switch and a lineman gets electrocuted.
The same with the power bank in the Motorhome garage. The bare pins in the hookup inlet would be live and a curious child could lift up the flap and stick their fingers in. Just do it properly and safely as autorouter said for your own protection.
 
You could make up a lead long enough to go from the Ecoflow to the hook up input on the van. Three pin plug on one end to plug into your Ecoflow and hook up output on the other that plugs into your van hook up.
My Bluetti trips if you use an appliance that draws more than 1000w, so think about that.
 
I do it whenever there's a power cut at home.
Crank up the Genny and plug into a kitchen socket.
The RCD and mcbs work regardless of which way the current is flowing.
I've proved this by reversing the incoming live and neutral at my garage consumer unit main switch then introducing a fault
Remember to turn off the main switch at home as if power is restored it could damage the Genny.
> Remember to turn off the main switch at home as if power is restored it could damage the Genny.

I think you mean "electrocute the poor sod who is trying to repair the service".

A proper change over switch and wiring is not expensive and far safer.
 
I do it whenever there's a power cut at home.
Crank up the Genny and plug into a kitchen socket.
The RCD and mcbs work regardless of which way the current is flowing.
I've proved this by reversing the incoming live and neutral at my garage consumer unit main switch then introducing a fault
Remember to turn off the main switch at home as if power is restored it could damage the Genny.
You are joking right?
 
Resurrecting this. Can I simply use my power bank as an EHU? That is, just plug my normal EHU lead into the power bank rather than a site bollard.
 
Resurrecting this. Can I simply use my power bank as an EHU? That is, just plug my normal EHU lead into the power bank rather than a site bollard.

I asked a similar question as part of the thread linked below, and there were several expert replies saying that a power bank is not designed for that purpose, and that there were risks associated with doing this, including some question marks about the earth issue.
There were also a couple of posts saying that they had used a power bank via the van's EHU for a few years and had no problem so far.

 
Resurrecting this. Can I simply use my power bank as an EHU? That is, just plug my normal EHU lead into the power bank rather than a site bollard.
No, it's not a good idea to just plug a power bank into the motorhome hookup inlet. However it's easy to test whether it's safe, and if not, to make an adapter cable to make it safe.

Some power banks come with an option to enable or disable an earth-neutral bond. For this situation, the earth-neutral bond should be enabled.

You need a socket tester that has an RCD Test button. Most socket testers don't have this function, but some do, like these:

It's a good idea to test the existing hookup system before you start experimenting with a power bank, so you know the motorhome system is all good to start with. So plug in a standard hookup cable to a hookup supply. Plug in the socket tester, and check that the motorhome RCD trips when the RCD Test button on the socket tester is pressed.

Next, use an adapter cable with a standard 13A plug to 16A round blue CEEForm connector to plug the power bank into the motorhome hookup inlet. Use the socket tester to test a motorhome socket, with the RCD test button on the socket tester. If it trips, then you are good to go, there is already an earth-neutral bond. If not, then there is no earth-neutral bond, and you need to modify the connection cable to add one.

The problem is, the RCD won't trip because there is no earth-neutral bond, because there is no path for the earth leakage current to flow to earth. In a standard hookup post, or any domestic electric supply, the earth and neutral are already bonded together. However in a power bank they probably aren't. So you need to provide your own earth-neutral bond.

You'll have to dismantle one of the connectors on the cable from the power bank to the motorhome hookup inlet. Then add a wire link between the neutral and earth pins. It doesn't matter which connector, either will work.

It is important that you mark this cable clearly, to say it has an earth-neutral bond, and is only to be used for connecting the power bank to the motorhome hookup inlet.

Use that adapted cable, with the earth-neutral bond, to connect the power bank to the motorhome hookup inlet. Test one of the motorhome sockets with the socket tester, and check that it trips the RCD when the RCD Test button on the socket tester is pressed.

That's it, you are now good to go.

To clear up a point you may be wondering about - the test button on the RCD trip switch in the motorhome consumer unit only tests the RCD trip mechanism. It doesn't test whether there actually is a path to earth, so that the RCD trips if you touch a live part. So even if it works, you are not necessarily protected against electric shock if there's a fault. That's why you need to use a socket tester with an RCD test button, to be sure the wiring is correct and you are protected.
 
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No, it's not a good idea to just plug a power bank into the motorhome hookup inlet. However it's easy to test whether it's safe, and if not, to make an adapter cable to make it safe.

Some power banks come with an option to enable or disable an earth-neutral bond. For this situation, the earth-neutral bond should be enabled.

You need a socket tester that has an RCD Test button. Most socket testers don't have this function, but some do, like these:

It's a good idea to test the existing hookup system before you start experimenting with a power bank, so you know the motorhome system is all good to start with. So plug in a standard hookup cable to a hookup supply. Plug in the socket tester, and check that the motorhome RCD trips when the RCD Test button on the socket tester is pressed.

Next, use an adapter cable with a standard 13A plug to 16A round blue CEEForm connector to plug the power bank into the motorhome hookup inlet. Use the socket tester to test a motorhome socket, with the RCD test button on the socket tester. If it trips, then you are good to go, there is already an earth-neutral bond. If not, then there is no earth-neutral bond, and you need to modify the connection cable to add one.

The problem is, the RCD won't trip because there is no earth-neutral bond, because there is no path for the earth leakage current to flow to earth. In a standard hookup post, or any domestic electric supply, the earth and neutral are already bonded together. However in a power bank they probably aren't. So you need to provide your own earth-neutral bond.

You'll have to dismantle one of the connectors on the cable from the power bank to the motorhome hookup inlet. Then add a wire link between the neutral and earth pins. It doesn't matter which connector, either will work.

It is important that you mark this cable clearly, to say it has an earth-neutral bond, and is only to be used for connecting the power bank to the motorhome hookup inlet.

Use that adapted cable, with the earth-neutral bond, to connect the power bank to the motorhome hookup inlet. Test one of the motorhome sockets with the socket tester, and check that it trips the RCD when the RCD Test button on the socket tester is pressed.

That's it, you are now good to go.

To clear up a point you may be wondering about - the test button on the RCD trip switch in the motorhome consumer unit only tests the RCD trip mechanism. It doesn't test whether there actually is a path to earth, so that the RCD trips if you touch a live part. So even if it works, you are not necessarily protected against electric shock if there's a fault. That's why you need to use a socket tester with an RCD test button, to be sure the wiring is correct and you are protected.
Brilliant. Exactly the info I was after. Hope it helps others too.👍👍👍👍

I presume the same applies if using a genny.

Mega thanks.
 
Resurrecting this. Can I simply use my power bank as an EHU? That is, just plug my normal EHU lead into the power bank rather than a site bollard.
Some say no some say yes.

Been using my Aferiy with 400w flex solar for over 2 years.
Had lithium upgrade and inverter now but still occasionally use it for charging purposes as only have 100w solar on roof and no more space.
 
Some say no some say yes.

Been using my Aferiy with 400w flex solar for over 2 years.
Had lithium upgrade and inverter now but still occasionally use it for charging purposes as only have 100w solar on roof and no more space.
I really would need to plug in direct to give the batteries a charge. Quite happy to plug appliances directly into the power bank.
 
I really would need to plug in direct to give the batteries a charge. Quite happy to plug appliances directly into the power bank.
I made a short lead. Power bank in footwell. Plug into power bank then into van hook up point. I then can plug in the solar panel as well. I can also run the fridge on electric during the day then to save some gas if needed
 
What size cable are you using to connect the power bank to the ehu? The blue?
 
To clarify please.

I am assuming that the concern of our better informed members is that any appliance on the Moho that needs an earth will not have one if plugged into a powerbank via the EHU socket rather than a site bollard.? For example, charger, fridge, hob, water heater?
So any fault with appliances like that could mean a live chassis?

Would that be overcome with an earth cable from the powerbank to the chassis on the Moho?

I have never really thought about all this as I have used a genny several times into the EHU socket of the Moho and that is what I would like to do with the powerbank.

Really appreciate input from the better informed. Thanks
 
I am assuming that the concern of our better informed members is that any appliance on the Moho that needs an earth will not have one if plugged into a powerbank via the EHU socket rather than a site bollard.? For example, charger, fridge, hob, water heater?
So any fault with appliances like that could mean a live chassis?

Would that be overcome with an earth cable from the powerbank to the chassis on the Moho?
It wouldn't be enough to just connect an earth cable from the power bank to the chassis of the MH.

The supply from the site bollard already has a neutral-earth bond, ie the neutral is already connected to the earth. If you touch a live part, a small current goes through you to earth, so it therefore doesn't go through the neutral pin of the MH inlet. This missing current is detected by the RCD in the MH consumer unit, and it will trip before it builds up enough to cause a bad electric shock.

When you connect a power pack to the MH inlet instead of the site bollard, there is probably no neutral-earth bond. Although an N-E bond is an option on some power packs. However it is quite easy to implement a neutral-earth bond in the wire from the power pack to the MH inlet if necessary.

You can easily test if there is a neutral-earth bond, using a suitable socket tester that has an RCD Test function. That's what I have described already in post #18.
 

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