Thetford Fridge 12V problem - where's the fuse?

[VXman]

Hi,
I have a Thetford N4000 Model C1 in a Burstner Lyseo (Ducato) only 4 months old.

Main question - where is the fuse? I understand there is one by the Starter battery which I have checked and its OK. Is there one on the fridge it self. Cant see one on the back (see pic below)

A few issues recently. Over the weekend it would not cool on Gas or Electric (powered by Generator). On setting off to return I noticed it was not working off 12V battery. Not sure if this is a related issue or separate? (note we were pretty well flat so I don't think that is the issue)

Plugged into EHU at home now and it seems to be cooling - not totally sure how well yet. It's very hot out on the drive to waiting to see. It did freeze a inch of water in a glass though.

So any ideas of the fuse or other potential simple cures? Any any comments of general issues?

 

[Jonno1103]

Have a look on the PCB board behind the control panel.

 

[GeoffnDee]

Are there any fridge fuses on your PSU also maybe a fuse marked D+
Is the PSU an Schaudt if so what EBL number is on it to help with the fuse layout.

 

[VXman]

Are there any fridge fuses on your PSU also maybe a fuse marked D+
Is the PSU an Schaudt if so what EBL number is on it to help with the fuse layout.

Schaudt Elektroblock 119. Nothing relating to fridge there. Anyway - I checked all those fuses and they are all ok.

 

[VXman]

Have a look on the PCB board behind the control panel.

What control panel?

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[GeoffnDee]

there may be a separate small unit (module) near the 119 marked PLT02 if there is look at the 2x fuses within it. Also
I know you have checked the 119 fuses but it may be worth checking again the 2x fuses that are located on their own on the very far left of the fuse panel .

 

[Jonno1103]

What control panel?

The one on the front of the fridge above the door. It has a 5a fuse attached to the PCB board behind.

 

[VXman]

The one on the front of the fridge above the door. It has a 5a fuse attached to the PCB board behind.

Ah, I see. I assume that means unscrewing the panel. It doesn't look like its easily accessible?

 

[AandA]

I am struggling with similar problems with a Thetford N3000 fridge in a 2018/9 Burstner 690. I can't get the control panel to come on so it won't power up on 240v, gas or 12v. I suspect the low current 12v control input has fused but I can't find a fuse. Putting a meter across the purple and black wires going into the module on the back of the fridge shows no voltage so I assume it's not located in the module. Any ideas much appreciated.

 

[GeoffnDee]

AandA have a look at my reply in post 6 it may apply to you as well if you have a similar set up as they are fridge supply fuses

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[AandA]

@AandA have a look at my reply in post 6 it may apply to you as well if you have a similar set up as they are fridge supply fuses

I can't see the PLT02, just an AD01 adapter. I'll check in the battery box area too.

 

[GeoffnDee]

That AD01 seems to have fuses in it that could be linked to fridge operation (12v and 12vD+) have you checked them.

 

[autorouter]

Schaudt Elektroblock 119. Nothing relating to fridge there.

The second from the left. 'Kuhlschrank' = fridge. There is a separate wire for the fridge, all the way to the starter battery, and there's a fuse, usually 20A, near the starter battery.

 

[VXman]

The second from the left. 'Kuhlschrank' = fridge. There is a separate wire for the fridge, all the way to the starter battery, and there's a fuse, usually 20A, near the starter battery.

Thanks - worked that out now. Sadly no fuse problems in either of those places. So is that it? Nothing on the fridge itself?

 

[VXman]

there may be a separate small unit (module) near the 119 marked PLT02 if there is look at the 2x fuses within it. Also
I know you have checked the 119 fuses but it may be worth checking again the 2x fuses that are located on their own on the very far left of the fuse panel .

Can't see anything. There is a booster module WA 121545 but I guess that's not connected in anyway as it's to do with charging.

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[autorouter]

I am struggling with similar problems with a Thetford N3000 fridge in a 2018/9 Burstner 690. I can't get the control panel to come on so it won't power up on 240v, gas or 12v. I suspect the low current 12v control input has fused but I can't find a fuse. Putting a meter across the purple and black wires going into the module on the back of the fridge shows no voltage so I assume it's not located in the module. Any ideas much appreciated.

Sorry, I lost the plot on this one. The low current 12V is entirely separate, and nothing to do with those two 20A fuses (which are just for the fridge 12V element supply). It comes from the leisure battery, probably via the EBL. It doesn't have a separate fuse, and is usually on one of the two general circuits (Kreis 1 or Kreis 2). There are other things on those fuses, like the gas ignition and the lights, so if everything else is all working, it's probably not that. However, if something else has blown the fuse, it'll knock the fridge off as well.

 

[VXman]

That AD01 seems to have fuses in it that could be linked to fridge operation (12v and 12vD+) have you checked them.

Ah -found that - all seems ok there too.

 

[Lenny HB]

Have a look and see if there is a seperate fuse block near the EBL Hymer bit a seperate fuse block with 4 fuses in it and one is a 2 amp fuse for the fridge electronics.

 

[GeoffnDee]

VXman you said at the start that the fridge was working on 230v ,is this still so, also is the control panel display working.
It may be worth shutting the fridge off and leaving it then restart .in case the electronic control needs some sort of reboot.(know idea if it will work but worth a try!)

 

[VXman]

Basically,

VXman you said at the start that the fridge was working on 230v ,is this still so, also is the control panel display working.
It may be worth shutting the fridge off and leaving it then restart .in case the electronic control needs some sort of reboot.(know idea if it will work but worth a try!)

OK - to summarise:

Basically over the weekend we were on gas and the fridge didn't work very well at all. Gas was working but it didn't get cold - no flashing lights to indicate a problem. (no EHU availiable).

When we started the engine to come home it switched to battery automatically but the red light and panel was flashing. At home we hooked up to the mains and it cooled a little but not convinced it was working aswell as it did previously but no flashing lights. 12V still not working when engine was started.

So definitely a 12V problem, some kind of gas issue and maybe a EHU issue too.

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[AandA]

Sorry, I lost the plot on this one. The low current 12V is entirely separate, and nothing to do with those two 20A fuses (which are just for the fridge 12V element supply). It comes from the leisure battery, probably via the EBL. It doesn't have a separate fuse, and is usually on one of the two general circuits (Kreis 1 or Kreis 2). There are other things on those fuses, like the gas ignition and the lights, so if everything else is all working, it's probably not that. However, if something else has blown the fuse, it'll knock the fridge off as well.

Thanks autorouter, just caught up with your comments and can confirm that the low current cct runs from block 5 on the EBL via "reserve" fuse 4. EBL diagram states 25 amp max but there was a 10 amp fuse which was blown......probably self inflicted as I had previously interfered with the electronic module at the back of the fridge and presumably caused a short (the low current cct is always live ...not thro the 12v master sw). Nothing on the wiring diagram showing that EBL outlet going to the fridge!! Anyhow, new fuse and now working again on 230 and 12v. Now need to resolve the original problem that the gas loghts and then goes out as soon as the igniter stops. Assuming a probe fault so will seek to replace. Thanks for your help.

 

[GeoffnDee]

VXman When I a had a problem with a fridge on a brand new caravan a few years ago the fridge manufacture company sent a mobile engineer to my house who checked it out and came back a few days later with some parts which he fitted and all was well. This was covered by the fridge warranty and arranged through the dealer.
Maybe this is the way to go now, with problems on all sources.

 

[autorouter]

Now need to resolve the original problem that the gas loghts and then goes out as soon as the igniter stops. Assuming a probe fault so will seek to replace. Thanks for your help.

Some of these fridges have an ordinary thermocouple flame sensor. But some of them have a resistive sensor that senses a current through the ionised gas flame, going back to a black electronics module that controls the igniter and gas solenoid valve. If the flame is not lighting, or the resistive probe is damaged/misplaced that's what will happen.

 

[GeoffnDee]

AandA according to the Thetford information on the N3000 fridge the electrode gap should be 4mm, also as well as having a power control module there is a .burner control module which may be worth checking the connections on. Is there a fault code showing ?

 

[VXman]

On Gas it lights up - you can hear the ignition and the gas burner. It just does not get cold.
On EHU it seems to cool a little. No error codes/warnings in either of these modes.

When you start the engine it would normally switch to Battery mode. It doesn't. If you manually switch it to battery everything flashes so a definite problem here.

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[VXman]

VXman When I a had a problem with a fridge on a brand new caravan a few years ago the fridge manufacture company sent a mobile engineer to my house who checked it out and came back a few days later with some parts which he fitted and all was well. This was covered by the fridge warranty and arranged through the dealer.
Maybe this is the way to go now, with problems on all sources.

Yep - in process of contacting dealer. Unfortunately they are not the most helpful dealership and also 100 miles away. I already have a few outstanding issues that need addressing and they are being very proactive with them I might try Thetford directly.

 

[Jonno1103]

I take it we all know that these fridges don't work very well in temps around and above 25c regardless of what energy source is selected?

20 amp (AES/ Kuhlschrank) fuse on the EBL99?

2 amp (steuerung) & 15 amp (kuhlschrank) fuses on the EBL220?

Apuljack

Home

01278 522922?

 

[myls]

Hi,
I have a Thetford N4000 Model C1 in a Burstner Lyseo (Ducato) only 4 months old.

Main question - where is the fuse? I understand there is one by the Starter battery which I have checked and its OK. Is there one on the fridge it self. Cant see one on the back (see pic below)

A few issues recently. Over the weekend it would not cool on Gas or Electric (powered by Generator). On setting off to return I noticed it was not working off 12V battery. Not sure if this is a related issue or separate? (note we were pretty well flat so I don't think that is the issue)

Plugged into EHU at home now and it seems to be cooling - not totally sure how well yet. It's very hot out on the drive to waiting to see. It did freeze a inch of water in a glass though.

So any ideas of the fuse or other potential simple cures? Any any comments of general issues?

View attachment 518037

You have to take that complete circuit board out you do not need to remove all the wires just the few that are to short to turn the board over towards your self and remove the three screws on top of the circuit board its underneath it be sure to disconnect you electricity

 

[VXman]

You have to take that complete circuit board out you do not need to remove all the wires just the few that are to short to turn the board over towards your self and remove the three screws on top of the circuit board its underneath it be sure to disconnect you electricity

Thank you for your reply but this was posted on July 2021. My fridge issues have had a long journey since then which eventually resulted in having a new replacement fridge from Thetford.

 

[Doigie1]

Schaudt Elektroblock 119. Nothing relating to fridge there. Anyway - I checked all those fuses and they are all ok.

It’s on the board with a black arrow - fuse marked E - has taken me 4 weeks to find why the fridge didn’t work in 240v …