Stripped screw heads on burner cap - are they needed?

Joined
Jun 13, 2021
Posts
11
Likes collected
2
Location
Lausanne, Switzerland
Funster No
81,892
MH
Carado A 361
Exp
Since 2014
Hello everyone,

Stupidly I've stripped two screw heads on two of the screws holding on the top (is that called the burner cap?)

Reason I need access is that there appears to be a blockage in the pipes of two (I guess coming from some rust from spillage) - I managed two access one, cleaned the pipe and it now works!

It look like I'm going to attack the screws with some screw extractors to remove them, but will not have a replacement for a while (if ever).

What use are these screws? I'm guessing that I may need to secure the bits when driving, but for me, I don't need to worry too much.... unless anyone can tell me otherwise!!?

Thanks in advance!

Mike



gas.jpg
 
As far as i can recall, the screws hold the burner in place on the hob base. without those screws then the weight of the burner ( although not large ) is on the pipework / fittings underneath.
vibration and any movement of the burner top could result in the lower part of the burner lowering and creating a poor fit to the top of the burner and affect the flame and also give a possible gas leak at any fittings underneath.

at the very least that base needs support IMHO.
 
I don’t think you mean the two screws in the photo? Is it just the two holding on the black enamel tops on the remaining burners?
 
I don’t think you mean the two screws in the photo? Is it just the two holding on the black enamel tops on the remaining burners?
That will be a different story 👍

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Thanks for your responses -

My bad explanation - its the two screws on the remaining burners that I've stripped. (circled below)....
I can totally see where I have misled (thanks, and sorry Phil!).

Mike


Screenshot 2022-01-05 191917.jpg
 
Thanks for your responses -

My bad explanation - its the two screws on the remaining burners that I've stripped. (circled below)....
I can totally see where I have misled (thanks, and sorry Phil!).

Mike


View attachment 572576dont apologies I should have read your post more closely...(y)
dont apologies I should have read your post more closely...(y)
 
Thanks for your responses -

My bad explanation - its the two screws on the remaining burners that I've stripped. (circled below)....
I can totally see where I have misled (thanks, and sorry Phil!).

Mike


View attachment 572576
So you got one out, I assume it was a long screw right down into the body of the burner, if you need to be in there I would drill the head out and then the rest will most likely come out with grips.
 
Dont worry about it mate. Mine have been like that for 3 years (Stoves 500DIT). Those screws are a pain in the backside for shearing if you want to strip the hob top down for a thorough clean. They've done it on 3 ovens of mine no matter how careful I am.
All I would say is after driving and before using the hob, make sure the caps are properly seated otherwise the burn pattern will be affected.
Other than possibly a bit more rattling out on the road, you wont see any affect.
I would also add that it's worth taking those caps off on a reasonably regular basis as you wouldn't believe how much rust builds up underneath them and that will, eventually, block the gas flame holes.
 
So you got one out, I assume it was a long screw right down into the body of the burner, if you need to be in there I would drill the head out and then the rest will most likely come out with grips.
I think thats what I'll likely need to do.. Although I Seen something on youtube with someone using an elastic band (), that'll try first with crossed fingers....

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Dont worry about it mate. Mine have been like that for 3 years (Stoves 500DIT). Those screws are a pain in the backside for shearing if you want to strip the hob top down for a thorough clean. They've done it on 3 ovens of mine no matter how careful I am.
All I would say is after driving and before using the hob, make sure the caps are properly seated otherwise the burn pattern will be affected.
Other than possibly a bit more rattling out on the road, you wont see any affect.
I would also add that it's worth taking those caps off on a reasonably regular basis as you wouldn't believe how much rust builds up underneath them and that will, eventually, block the gas flame holes.
Thanks, reassuring to know that was not just me! I was amazed how much cleaning needed to be done. Certainly something I'll be doing more often!

M
 
I think they may be the same diameter for a standard electric plug socket/switch which you can trim to size. Possibly.
 
For mine I replaced them all with these in stainless steel when I took the caps off to clean the burners - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361547596279 , no.4 x 1 1/4 (2.9x32mm) , which fitted perfectly. I don't remember if any of mine had actually snapped, certainly some of the heads were rusting and rounding.

I found the size from doing a search, quite possibly this post (one of the reasons I actually joined this site, the site came up in a few searches for checking things)
 
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First thing, the one you have removed how does it work with the screw removed ? Without popping when lighting and switching off. This will be the result of not replacing the screw. The screws are stuck because of dissimilar metals corroding together.

This is a trick I use for stripping screws in ovens, find the best fitting screwdriver you have, blow touch / heat gun heat (if burner does not light) heat the screw for 5 minutes, you may have mullered the screw in the undo direction but not in the tighten direction. With a lot of pressure downwards give it a slight turn in the tighten up direction, just to break the corrosion.

if the screw removal tool does not work, drill the head off the screw, but you may be left with a stud in the aluminium section which would be difficult to remove, hence my first question How would it light without the screw. Good luck
 
"I made do with one tilll I found a v small screw drilled out the old one and fitted the new slightly larger screw no problems

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Vinegar (acetic acid) is brilliant for helping to free up rusted items, in your case though I would go with the drilling out method to remove the too if the screw and allow the burner cap to be removed and then you can use vinegar on the rest of the screw that is left and mole grips. Don't be in a rush to remove the part of the screw left, let the vinegar do its job!

PS it's the method I used on a previous motorhome, it worked for me!
 
For mine I replaced them all with these in stainless steel when I took the caps off to clean the burners - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361547596279 , no.4 x 1 1/4 (2.9x32mm) , which fitted perfectly. I don't remember if any of mine had actually snapped, certainly some of the heads were rusting and rounding.

I found the size from doing a search, quite possibly this post (one of the reasons I actually joined this site, the site came up in a few searches for checking things)
I did exactly the same with mine replacing with stainless steel screws.
I managed to get the seized screws out by giving them a good soaking with PlusGas fast release.
 
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i ruined the head on one of mine due to rust, they usually are torx head, I got mine out with a small vice grips from underneath the hob and replaced them all with stainless steel, you will find the smev ones on ebay, I actually religiously replace any screws on my camper when I remove something with stainless, its not that expensive but worth it to save the heartbreak trying to get old rusty ones out 5 years down the line
 
IF YOU DRILL THE HEADS OF ENOUGH TO PULL THE CAPOF I WOULD THINK THE CAP WILL SIT BACK ON THE STUDS SOYOU CAN USE IT BUT MIGHT RATTLE A BIT

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