Starlink Cable Pass Through? (1 Viewer)

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MisterB

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I am part way through an install and changing my current 12v conversion, to one which doesn't have to use the 12v/48v stabilised power supplies It's been a useful read just to consider and focus me on different options.

I am considering installing more than one pass through (RJ45 AND 12v power) in a couple of different locations, near the front driver side and near the rear passenger side, with the internal cabling being set up like a mini network, all data cables leading back to a 12v permanently fixed router (also considering doing the same with the 12v supply, so as to keep it separate from the motorhome 12v system). As the router has several feeds this seems to be an option, although probably overkill, but will allow me to carry just one 3m lead for the external data and the same for the 12v power to the dish. I am doing away with the starlink provided cables and router and not using 12v and 48v power supplies.
I am pretty close to testing before actually installing just to make sure everything works.
 
Jan 9, 2024
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We are expecting our first campervan in July 2024. This will be our first so we’re new!
If anyone’s still after running the cable through a window… I’ve got one of these to try but as I haven’t quite got my van yet, I can’t comment on it’s effectiveness for another few weeks!

 
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ceejayt

ceejayt

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If anyone’s still after running the cable through a window… I’ve got one of these to try but as I haven’t quite got my van yet, I can’t comment on it’s effectiveness for another few weeks!

Try as I might their website continually says cannot ship to that address - have tried home and daughters. Weird. They lost a sale
 
Jan 9, 2024
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We are expecting our first campervan in July 2024. This will be our first so we’re new!
Try as I might their website continually says cannot ship to that address - have tried home and daughters. Weird. They lost a sale
Sorry, I forgot to say that I had this problem but used the contact form on their website and they sent me a link to use. The shipping was £18 but it arrived in 2 or 3 days so very efficient after using the link they sent.

ceejayt I’ve sent you a PM…
 

MisterB

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Recent experience at a campsite with lots of trees near the hardstanding pitch has shown me that retaining the ability to deploy the dish on the ground is important. I found that on the roof it was struggling to get online so I put it on the ground away from the van and got a download speed of 296 Mbit/s and upload of 19 Mbit/s using Starlink's own speed test. Later on I got 119 down and 19 up as measured by Ookla, still more than adequate.

I had been reluctant to find space in the van for the large and awkwardly shaped standard stand. After some thought and online research I found that some people have used a tripod type stand. These are a bit expensive, but I carry a Slik mini camera tripod around with me anyway, so decided to try using that. I found that the central part could be slid out and replaced with a length of 18mm aluminium rod and an aftermarket Starlink pipe mount from Amazon - total cost £35 and very easy to fold down and stow in the van.

View attachment 898681View attachment 898690


great idea, the stand it comes with is a pain to stow away!

made me wonder if anyone had adapted the original stand to become 'foldable' in some way, not asking for examples of how to fix the stand to the roof etc (and i dont actually need a stand!) so its just a 'voyeur' interest ...

folding stands are available on ebay and probably other sites aswell


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Feb 5, 2024
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I am part way through an install and changing my current 12v conversion, to one which doesn't have to use the 12v/48v stabilised power supplies It's been a useful read just to consider and focus me on different options.

I am considering installing more than one pass through (RJ45 AND 12v power) in a couple of different locations, near the front driver side and near the rear passenger side, with the internal cabling being set up like a mini network, all data cables leading back to a 12v permanently fixed router (also considering doing the same with the 12v supply, so as to keep it separate from the motorhome 12v system). As the router has several feeds this seems to be an option, although probably overkill, but will allow me to carry just one 3m lead for the external data and the same for the 12v power to the dish. I am doing away with the starlink provided cables and router and not using 12v and 48v power supplies.
I am pretty close to testing before actually installing just to make sure everything works.hat will work.

I am part way through an install and changing my current 12v conversion, to one which doesn't have to use the 12v/48v stabilised power supplies It's been a useful read just to consider and focus me on different options.

I am considering installing more than one pass through (RJ45 AND 12v power) in a couple of different locations, near the front driver side and near the rear passenger side, with the internal cabling being set up like a mini network, all data cables leading back to a 12v permanently fixed router (also considering doing the same with the 12v supply, so as to keep it separate from the motorhome 12v system). As the router has several feeds this seems to be an option, although probably overkill, but will allow me to carry just one 3m lead for the external data and the same for the 12v power to the dish. I am doing away with the starlink provided cables and router and not using 12v and 48v power supplies.
I am pretty close to testing before actually installing just to make sure everything works.
If I understand what you are saying correctly then I don't think that will work. You need to plug Starlink into the WAN (wide area network) port on the router and there is usually only one of them though some routers will have two in which case you could permanently plug two Starlink connecting cables into the router.

The multiple LAN (local area network) ports on routers are for connecting stuff on your internal network. The WAN port takes a single network address from Starlink and uses NAT (network address translation) to communicate with your internal network via a firewall. The internal network has completely different network addresses normally in the form 192.168 1.xxx which are allocated to devices by the DHCP server in the router.

My router has only one WAN port which is why it is an either or situation with connecting the dish. I either connect via the cable that runs into the van from my roof mount, or unplug the bottom end of that cable which is behind the toilet cassette hatch, and in its place plug in the long cable which lets me position the dish on the ground away from the van.
 
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MisterB

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If I understand what you are saying correctly then I don't think that will work. You need to plug Starlink into the WAN (wide area network) port on the router and there is usually only one of them though some routers will have two in which case you could permanently plug two Starlink connecting cables into the router.

The multiple LAN (local area network) ports on routers are for connecting stuff on your internal network. The WAN port takes a single network address from Starlink and uses NAT (network address translation) to communicate with your internal network via a firewall. The internal network has completely different network addresses normally in the form 192.168 1.xxx which are allocated to devices by the DHCP server in the router.

My router has only one WAN port which is why it is an either or situation with connecting the dish. I either connect via the cable that runs into the van from my roof mount, or unplug the bottom end of that cable which is behind the toilet cassette hatch, and in its place plug in the long cable which lets me position the dish on the ground away from the van.
Yes, you're right, I got mixed up, what I will be doing is seeing if I can make the single WAN input into a two cable input using two sockets into one plug. I bought these to do that job, I then just need a short cable between the adapter and the WAN input. Only one input would ever be in use at any one time .....


17162086765845055971525228842528.jpg



No idea if it will work of course but I've gone too far now to turn back in terms of the dish itself ..

17162088054105648151146615958772.jpg
 
Feb 5, 2024
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I think if the location where your cables will merge is accessible then it would be better to have a small patch panel where you can manually link a chosen cable to the one going to the router. That is effectively what I have with a captive RJ45 socket connected to the router and mating RJ45 plugs on my two cables, so I just plug in the one I want to use. Presumably if you move the dish you will be disconnecting it from one cable and connecting to another, do doing the same at the router end is not much extra work.

My concern with your arrangement is that whichever cable is in use will be linked to a big aerial in the form of a length of unterminated cable, though if it is shielded Cat6 this might be minimal. So, although this sort of arrangement is not done in normal network installations, it may well be perfectly fine. On the other hand it may pick up interference, and if it does this may be OK in some locations but worse in others where there is a noisier electromagnetic environment
 
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Just a tad..
fred_jb - just to clarify, pretty soon I will have one outdoor shielded Cat6 cable and one OEM Starlink cable running parallel with each other with only one being connected to the router and or dish at any one time.

So my question is, will the non connected cable (Cat6 or Starlink) cause interference to each other (only one in use at any time) as a completely disconnected cable?
 

MisterB

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I think if the location where your cables will merge is accessible then it would be better to have a small patch panel where you can manually link a chosen cable to the one going to the router. That is effectively what I have with a captive RJ45 socket connected to the router and mating RJ45 plugs on my two cables, so I just plug in the one I want to use. Presumably if you move the dish you will be disconnecting it from one cable and connecting to another, do doing the same at the router end is not much extra work.

My concern with your arrangement is that whichever cable is in use will be linked to a big aerial in the form of a length of unterminated cable, though if it is shielded Cat6 this might be minimal. So, although this sort of arrangement is not done in normal network installations, it may well be perfectly fine. On the other hand it may pick up interference, and if it does this may be OK in some locations but worse in others where there is a noisier electromagnetic environment


Thanks, I'm very much at the 'proving the concept' at the moment and haven't got time to do a full proper install until next week as I have other ongoing jobs! I could then buy some shielded cable and connections for the full install and start making holes in the van!!

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Feb 5, 2024
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Thanks, I'm very much at the 'proving the concept' at the moment and haven't got time to do a full proper install until next week as I have other ongoing jobs! I could then buy some shielded cable and connections for the full install and start making holes in the van!!
I am assuming you intend to connect both 8 way cables to the one RJ45 socket with the green connector block? Is there any reason why you can't have two of these, one for each dish cable, and just plug the router into the one you want to use? If you did that there would be no possibility of the unused cable causing interference as it would be disconnected at both ends.

Presumably you have the router in an accessible location and are able to get the single WAN cable to it from wherever you have located the RJ45 socket. If so, why not bring both cables to the router location and terminate them in separate RJ45 sockets, then just plug the router WAN cable into the appropriate socket.
 
Jan 9, 2024
47
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We are expecting our first campervan in July 2024. This will be our first so we’re new!
Recent experience at a campsite with lots of trees near the hardstanding pitch has shown me that retaining the ability to deploy the dish on the ground is important. I found that on the roof it was struggling to get online so I put it on the ground away from the van and got a download speed of 296 Mbit/s and upload of 19 Mbit/s using Starlink's own speed test. Later on I got 119 down and 19 up as measured by Ookla, still more than adequate.

I had been reluctant to find space in the van for the large and awkwardly shaped standard stand. After some thought and online research I found that some people have used a tripod type stand. These are a bit expensive, but I carry a Slik mini camera tripod around with me anyway, so decided to try using that. I found that the central part could be slid out and replaced with a length of 18mm aluminium rod and an aftermarket Starlink pipe mount from Amazon - total cost £35 and very easy to fold down and stow in the van.

View attachment 898681View attachment 898690
fred_jb could you let me know which Slik tripod you’ve got as I like the look of your solution and most tripods that I’ve found on eBay are expensive and from China/USA.

Thanks 🙏
 

MisterB

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I am assuming you intend to connect both 8 way cables to the one RJ45 socket with the green connector block? Is there any reason why you can't have two of these, one for each dish cable, and just plug the router into the one you want to use? If you did that there would be no possibility of the unused cable causing interference as it would be disconnected at both ends.

Presumably you have the router in an accessible location and are able to get the single WAN cable to it from wherever you have located the RJ45 socket. If so, why not bring both cables to the router location and terminate them in separate RJ45 sockets, then just plug the router WAN cable into the appropriate socket.
Because I want to reduce the cable swaps and have the router tucked away out of sight.

If I wanted to keep the cables separate, I would just terminate them with RJ45 connectors, but I do take your point re reducing interference. I suppose it comes down to how much interference it causes and if it's actually an issue, which I won't know until the acid test !
 
Feb 5, 2024
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Hi Lenny,

I already had the tripod for my photography hobby, so might not have gone for that solution if not. The one I have is the Slik Sprint Mini II which is now discontinued but you might find one on eBay. There are also much cheaper Slik models but I don't know if the central column on these is removable and if so what diameter it is.


The Starlink pipe mount and aluminium rod I bought were these, which fitted together perfectly though I cut a bit off the rod so that the pipe mount could sit as low down as possible:



20240520_191110.jpg


I drilled a hole through the mount to allow a padlock to pass through as I had already drilled the end of the dish arm to utilise the padlock holes in the roof mount I bought. I followed the instructions on this that came with the Starvmount and is below the point where the connection goes in so does not cause a problem with the dish arm.

 
Feb 5, 2024
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Because I want to reduce the cable swaps and have the router tucked away out of sight.

If I wanted to keep the cables separate, I would just terminate them with RJ45 connectors, but I do take your point re reducing interference. I suppose it comes down to how much interference it causes and if it's actually an issue, which I won't know until the acid test !
I suspect it will be fine, but will be interested to hear how your testing goes.

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Feb 5, 2024
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fred_jb could you let me know which Slik tripod you’ve got as I like the look of your solution and most tripods that I’ve found on eBay are expensive and from China/USA.

Thanks 🙏
Doesn't seem to be many of these tripods around, but they are ideal as you can adjust the outward angle of the legs for max stability without having to extend the height, and the size of the centre column is an easy fit into the Amazon Starlink pipe mount. The only one I can see on eBay is the Mk 1 version of mine which looks essentially the same. The seller is asking £50 or make an offer.

 
Jan 9, 2024
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We are expecting our first campervan in July 2024. This will be our first so we’re new!
Doesn't seem to be many of these tripods around, but they are ideal as you can adjust the outward angle of the legs for max stability without having to extend the height, and the size of the centre column is an easy fit into the Amazon Starlink pipe mount. The only one I can see on eBay is the Mk 1 version of mine which looks essentially the same. The seller is asking £50 or make an offer.

Thanks fred_jb

I saw the £50 one on eBay and have asked the seller if the centre pole is removable but from your description, it sounds like it is.

But… with the tripod at around £50, the pole at £8 and the SL pole adapter at £31… that’s £90 all in.

So, I went searching and found this one from Amazon US for £55…


From your experience, have you any comments on the look of this one please?
 
Feb 5, 2024
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Good find - looks like it will do the job OK. A couple of comments - it looks like spreading the legs into the working position also raises the centre column which means the dish is maybe a bit high for optimum stability. Also it doesn't look like it has the normal tab that clicks in and locks the dish in position inside the mount, and uses a thumbscrew instead. Neither are really serious objections, and the good thing about buying from Amazon is that you if you are not happy you should be able to return to Amazon UK for a full refund even if it came from Amazon US. I saw similar US items on eBay which would have incurred high postage costs and possible import duty/VAT so buying from Amazon UK should avoid all that.
 

brentperkins

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I went for the fixed roof mounting and must say I’m really pleased with performance. We also went for the 12Volt conversion. So no packing away, always there, always available. Personally couldn’t be bothered with the faff of packing and unpacking.
Can I ask what mount you went for please.
 

stewartwebr

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Can I ask what mount you went for please.
I made my own conversion parts and bought the frame from a guy on eBay. I have just spent a day fitting my friends who used a Star Mount 12 volt conversion frame. Very well put together and quality piece of kit but not cheap at £850. If I had not done my conversion I would certainly be buying the Star Mount.

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zac

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I like the star mount conversions but there prices are way too high for me to consider using one. You could buy a decent 3d printer and print your own for way less than their prices and still have a chunk of change . But they do look nice. I also didn't want to cut mine down that far as then you need to ensure you seal it correctly.
I actually like the design of the everlanders one as it slopes down slightly to ensure no water build up. Mines been on the roof just under a year now with no issues.
 

Bustup15

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Everlanders design is good as the electronics remain within the original sealed unit.
 
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stewartwebr

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I like the star mount conversions but there prices are way too high for me to consider using one. You could buy a decent 3d printer and print your own for way less than their prices and still have a chunk of change . But they do look nice. I also didn't want to cut mine down that far as then you need to ensure you seal it correctly.
I actually like the design of the everlanders one as it slopes down slightly to ensure no water build up. Mines been on the roof just under a year now with no issues.
My friend went for the Star Mount for the flexibility of being able to remove the dish and move it around. However, it did come at a price. I have just enquired how much he paid. The 12Volt mount was £850, the removable base mount was £265 and import tax was £134 so a fairly hefty price for the luxury of an all combined 12Volt unit.
Edit - should have added £54 for an external 12 Volt socket in the event he wants to run it off the roof.
 
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Jan 9, 2024
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Norwich, UK
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We are expecting our first campervan in July 2024. This will be our first so we’re new!
Hi Lenny,

I already had the tripod for my photography hobby, so might not have gone for that solution if not. The one I have is the Slik Sprint Mini II which is now discontinued but you might find one on eBay. There are also much cheaper Slik models but I don't know if the central column on these is removable and if so what diameter it is.


The Starlink pipe mount and aluminium rod I bought were these, which fitted together perfectly though I cut a bit off the rod so that the pipe mount could sit as low down as possible:



View attachment 899547

I drilled a hole through the mount to allow a padlock to pass through as I had already drilled the end of the dish arm to utilise the padlock holes in the roof mount I bought. I followed the instructions on this that came with the Starvmount and is below the point where the connection goes in so does not cause a problem with the dish arm.

fred_jb Thank you for your advice on your set up with a tripod… I’ve just got all the bits you mentioned and the tripod off eBay and it works great. I’ve cut the aluminium pole down so that the tripod can sit almost flat and put a bit of the soft side of sticky Velcro on the inside of the pole adapter to make dishy sit more firmly as it wobbled from side to side a bit but now its great and soooo much smaller to cart around than the original SL stand.

Thanks again 🙏👍🏻
 
Feb 5, 2024
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fred_jb Thank you for your advice on your set up with a tripod… I’ve just got all the bits you mentioned and the tripod off eBay and it works great. I’ve cut the aluminium pole down so that the tripod can sit almost flat and put a bit of the soft side of sticky Velcro on the inside of the pole adapter to make dishy sit more firmly as it wobbled from side to side a bit but now its great and soooo much smaller to cart around than the original SL stand.

Thanks again 🙏👍🏻
Good to hear that it all worked out OK. Thanks for the tip about lining the pole adapter with some velcro. Mine is a little loose too, so I shall do that.

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Jan 9, 2024
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Norwich, UK
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Consort Oslo coming
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We are expecting our first campervan in July 2024. This will be our first so we’re new!
Good to hear that it all worked out OK. Thanks for the tip about lining the pole adapter with some velcro. Mine is a little loose too, so I shall do that.
fred_jb Just go half way round on the ‘notch’ side and it fits snug as a bug…



IMG_2285.jpeg

IMG_2284.jpeg
 

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