Solar panel problems

[TDub49]

It's slowly dawning on me that motorhomes are just like boats, as fast as you fix something so something else (often entirely unrelated) goes wrong. In this case, having fixed the floor so that we can use the electric steps, it seems that the solar panel on my Ace Siena has suddenly decided not to play the game anymore and is pushing 0.0v through to the Epever Dual Battery Solar Charge Controller.

I have tried disconnecting the feed at the controller end and the multi meter tell me there's 1 or 2 volts on the line, whilst the remote monitor tells me there's zero getting through. Bearing in mind we have't been anywhere yet this year and the only thing I have done that might have caused something to happen is replace the leisure battery I am a bit flummoxed as to what might have happened.
Do panels fail suddenly and dramatically?
Could replacing the leisure battery have done something?
The charge controller is not showing an error but both red leds are flashing slowly, or maybe blinking but how is one meant to tell the difference?
Any clues welcome - and no, I don't know anything about the panel except that it is 120cm x 55cm which hints at it being 100watt. The wiring underneath looks intact and as far as I can tell it is a straight run down to the controller with no fuses in between.

 

[cyberyacht]

Did you isolate the solar panels before disconnecting the battery. If not you may have stuffed the controller. Batteries should always be connected to controllers before connecting the solar panels.

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

Best if you disconnect the solar input to your controller and check if there is any voltage coming from the panel.if not check the line back and there should be other connectors ,mcb4 connectors that just clip together.I would then check the panel at this point.If you have power from the panel then Reconnect and check the voltage again going into your batteries.
As above you should have disconnected the panel first before changing the leisure battery,but sometimes the controllers are not always fried.you can downloaded a manual on line to check the blinks and colours

 

[TDub49]

Did you isolate the solar panels before disconnecting the battery. If not you may have stuffed the controller. Batteries should always be connected to controllers before connecting the solar panels.

Thanks - did it by the book, panel disconnected etc, everything reconnected in sequence. All seemed tickety-boo but now nothing coming from the panel at the controller end. The controller has no error messages and seems functional otherwise - I was hoping it was as simple as the controller being 'fried' because it would be a lot simpler than trying to replace the panel.

 

[TDub49]

Best if you disconnect the solar input to your controller and check if there is any voltage coming from the panel.if not check the line back and there should be other connectors ,mcb4 connectors that just clip together.I would then check the panel at this point.If you have power from the panel then Reconnect and check the voltage again going into your batteries.
As above you should have disconnected the panel first before changing the leisure battery,but sometimes the controllers are not always fried.you can downloaded a manual on line to check the blinks and colours

Thanks - have done that and there appears to be nothing coming through which is conformed by the remote monitor which also says zero volts from the panel. To get to the connectors, which are all nicely tucked up out of reach under the panel, it looks like I've got to remove it - which in turns looks like a whole bundle of fun as it means getting on the roof as I can only reach one side from the step ladder.

The trouble shooting guide in the manual helpfully suggests that the LED "blinking" on the main unit indicates a short circuit, while the LED "slowly flashing" indicates a short circuit. Not entirely sure what the difference is between "blinking" and "slowly flashing" but the remote until has no error messages so I am guessing the controller is fine.

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[funflair]

I think you already know that you need to check the connections/voltage at the solar panel itself and then if that is OK work towards the controller.

 

[sonar]

Two things here first check any fuses

the other is are the dip switches in the right position for the type of battery you have fitted.

mine was the same until the dip switches were altered. Simple silly mistake I set them but must have moved the switches as I fitted the unit .

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

The panel leads are usually long enough to come out from under the panel,they are MCB4 connections which pull apart.you may just need to unclip the cables from where they are attached to the underside of the panel.

 

[TDub49]

Just to tie off this thread. New solar panel ordered from Coastline Campers on Wednesday, delivered Thursday and fitted today. Old panel tested on removal and found to be chucking out 20v at the back of the panel (in the junction box thingy) but this wasn't getting past the MC4 connectors (who thought they were a good idea??). Anyway now have an unbroken cable run from panel to controller and no connectors in between to fail and everything working as it should. Oldest son who helped with the fitting now the proud owner of a (second hand) solar panel for his shed.

 

[Stealaway]

Just to tie off this thread. New solar panel ordered from Coastline Campers on Wednesday, delivered Thursday and fitted today. Old panel tested on removal and found to be chucking out 20v at the back of the panel (in the junction box thingy) but this wasn't getting past the MC4 connectors (who thought they were a good idea??). Anyway now have an unbroken cable run from panel to controller and no connectors in between to fail and everything working as it should. Oldest son who helped with the fitting now the proud owner of a (second hand) solar panel for his shed.

I always thought those connections were crap. I use a junction box and proper screw connections now

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[pappajohn]

Nothing wrong with MC4 connectors
Thousands of panels out there and just about every one with MC4 connectors with no problems
Get one or two poor ones and they all get labelled as crap

 

[Lenny HB]

I've never had any problems with MC4 connectors had them on the last 3 vans. Current van has 6 on the roof for 5 years.

I suspect one not pushed fully home allowing moisture in therefore corrosion.