Schaudt EBL 29 and replacing batteries

A

AussieB

Free Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Posts
17
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Location
Hobart, Tasmania, Australia
Funster No
11,057
MH
Exix i578
Exp
Since 2007
Firstly thanks to all the great advice from the forum.
We're keen to ask the solar gods about these two points in our newly rigged up Votronic MPPT 350 with 2x160watt panels in a Hymer i587 with an EBL 29.

We have connected the MPPT unit directly to the Schaudt via the cable (adding the pin 2 connector for starter batter charge as per Lenny's kind guidance) and we have also replaced the 15amp solar fuse in the Schaudt EBL 29 for a 25 amp fuse as well as installing a 30 amp in line fuse from the solar panels (which are connected in parallel).

The next question we are stuck on is how to switch out our current 1x AGM (banner 95Ah) batter with our new 2 x Wet/lead acid (Exide 100Ah et650's). The EBL 29 instruction manual says:

"Lead-acid batteries can be swapped with lead-gel or AGM batteries. However, swapping from lead-gel or AGM batteries to lead-acid batteries is only possible in certain circumstances. Contact the vehicle manufacturer for more information."

This in addition to reading various other posts from Allan, Lenny and others on this and other forums we're also concerned about turning off the battery cut off in the electroblock we're a bit unsure as to what to do next.

Any advice on this would be VERY welcome!
 
The EBL 29 is a fairly new unit so the battery switch shouldn't be a problem is when the units are old it gets problematical.
Normally it doesn't cause any problems just disconnecting & reconnecting the batteries without turning the switch off. Just make sure the control panel is turned off.
 
Thanks Lenny.
Our plan is to replace the Banner battery with two Exide batteries by:
  1. removing the in-line fuse between the solar panels and the regulator,
  2. removing the 50A and 20A? next to the battery,
  3. removing the -ve terminal connection first, followed by the +ve connection
After anchoring the new batteries we will reverse the procedure - having configured the batteries as per Allan’s diagram on his website.
Is there anything else we need to consider whilst changing batteries?
 
I think the electroblock and the solar regulator have a gel setting.
On my merc based hymer, there is also a schaudt wa121545 booster that also needs to be set for gel.
 
AussieB said:
Thanks Lenny.
Our plan is to replace the Banner battery with two Exide batteries by:
  1. removing the in-line fuse between the solar panels and the regulator,
  2. removing the 50A and 20A? next to the battery,
  3. removing the -ve terminal connection first, followed by the +ve connection
After anchoring the new batteries we will reverse the procedure - having configured the batteries as per Allan’s diagram on his website.
Is there anything else we need to consider whilst changing batteries?
Click to expand...
As you are fitting flooded cells don't forget to change the switch on the RHS of the EBL for battery type.

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The Exise batteries are Acid batteries. So I will check the setting on the block.
We are only new to our Hymer i578 - it has been a huge learning curve over the past week!
 
Switch is down for Flooded.
308813
 
AussieB said:
The next question we are stuck on is how to switch out our current 1x AGM (banner 95Ah) batter with our new 2 x Wet/lead acid (Exide 100Ah et650's). The EBL 29 instruction manual says:

"Lead-acid batteries can be swapped with lead-gel or AGM batteries. However, swapping from lead-gel or AGM batteries to lead-acid batteries is only possible in certain circumstances. Contact the vehicle manufacturer for more information."
Click to expand...
I had that warning on my previous Adria. I think that is because Gel batteries do not need any ventilation tubes to the outside and are therefore installed without them. Flooded lead acid need ventilation tubes and they may or may not be able to be fitted in the place the batteries are in. When I changed from one Gel battery to two flooded lead acid ones in the Adria I drilled through the floors and put in ventilation tubes.

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We have some concerns re the solar fuse in the EBL 29.
We have placed 2 x 160 watt panels on the roof, and a Votronic MPPT 350 regulator, so replaced the 15A solar fuse with a 20A.
Allan writes: "The LRM1218 can also cope with a higher Solar Panel voltage, up to 32v, and bigger panels, up to 270W. However, please note that while the LRM1218 can deliver up to 20A to the Elektroblock, most units like the EBL 99, will not tolerate more than 15A being input on the 3 pin Solar plug from the regulator. The early 16amp EBL 99 units have a 10 amp fused Solar Port, so check what rating your particular EBL unit will support."
Do we need to change the fuse back to 15A? Or, is the EBL 29 a later version?
Thanks.
 
AussieB said:
most units like the EBL 99, will not tolerate more than 15A being input on the 3 pin Solar plug from the regulator
Click to expand...
One way round this problem is to send the current into two pins instead of one. The current-carrying capacity will be double. The only problem is to identify an extra pair of pins that can be used.

There is a 2-pin connector, Block 7, that is intended for an extra mains charger input. (Zusatz ladegerat in German). Pin 1 is negative and pin 2 is positive. They are internally connected to exactly the same place as the solar connector pins 1 and 3. You will need to insert a fuse into the slot marked 'Zusatz ladegerat'. A suitable connector is a 2-pin Mate'n'Lok, like this:
www.altecautomotive.co.uk

2 way MATE N LOK multi-connector ALT/26030/040

2 way polarised male and female MATE "N" LOK connection block suitable for use on automotive/motorcycle wiring systems. You will receive 2
www.altecautomotive.co.uk www.altecautomotive.co.uk

One thing to check is that the Battery Choice switch on the right has a Blei-saure (Lead-acid) option. On some models the choice is Blei-Gel and AGM. That would be a problem when fitting Flooded lead-acid types.
 
Thanks Autorouter. We will purchase one ASAP.
We finished the fitting of the panels and the two new batteries yesterday. All seems to be working well. But will need to protect the EBL with this last wiring that you have suggested.
Off to France this week. A big thanks to the big hearts on the forum who have assisted with their great depth of knowledge.
 
The last bit of the puzzle is how to get the AES wired from the regulator. Any ideas?

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AussieB said:
The last bit of the puzzle is how to get the AES wired from the regulator. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure what's wired already, but maybe this helps.
The AES controller is powered permanently by 12V, and switches between the three energy sources to power the fridge. The power to the 12V heater element in the fridge is entirely separate from the power to the AES controller.

The EBL wiring diagram refers to the heater element wires when it says "Refrigerator lines must be routed separated from further battery lines to the battery poles".

There is a wire from the starter battery positive, through a 20A fuse, to pin 1 of the 5-way MnL connector (Block 2). The negative wire goes from the starter battery negative to pin 4 of Block 2.

These wires are dual-purpose. When the engine is running (the D+ input is high) the relays switch the AES fridge 12V power to the starter battery. When the engine is stopped (D+ input is low) the relays switch the mains charger so that it charges the starter battery. Other relays switch the fridge 12V power to the leisure battery, through the 'Komp/AES Kuhlschrank' fuse.

The AES fridge 12V power is connected to the 4-way MnL connector (Block 1). Pin 4 is positive, pin 3 is negative. Pin 2 is a convenient D+, which can go to the AES controller to use in its control sequencing.
 
Last edited:

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