Our trek in Peru starts here (1 Viewer)

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jumartoo

jumartoo

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Yesterday the van collected us at 8.00am to start our trip. We had another day of visits and then the last night in comfort before our trek starts and we have six nights of camping, so no internet.

We went first to the oldest Incan village. We were taken to a local house where the woman supports eight children by weaving.

This is where we saw the Guinea pigs. For the foodies two piccies, one of some of the 3,600 varieties of potatoes and some coloured corn.

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Jenben

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I don't feel I can ' like' @jumartoo last post as I had a pet guinea pig called Kevin :(

Sorry @Armytwowheels , Sandra I clearly had one too many pastis last night.....
 
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One of the children then gave us a demo of the weaving process. She started from the making of the natural soap by grating a root of a special plant. She then washed a piece of wool. She then showed us how it it spun.

After this she showed us the different plants, roots, barks and minerals used to make the different colours. Lastly she showed us the cochineal beetle to make red die.

Lastly she showed us how the weaving was done. Depending on whether the wool used is sheep, alpaca or baby alpaca, a table runner takes one month, two to three months or six months respectively.

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This is the room they work in!
 

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What is the altitude where you are now? I can see snow topped mountains in some of your shots.
 
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Well..... Are you back from beyond the black stump? Still alive after 6 days of guinea pig soup? We need to know.

Ros and Norman

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The salt pans are owned by the families in the area. They are shared out equally. A buy out by some foreign company has been rejected. This is the only means of income for some people.

From here we went to Ollantaytambo, a village with an enormous unfinished Incan temple. We climbed up to the top where the unused stone was left. Why it was never finished is a mystery.

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Unfinished walls and blocks of stone abandoned at the top.

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The lumps on the rock would have been filed off.

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Just woke up and read the terrible news about Judge Mental.

Its also going to take me a long time to catch up on the forum now.

I'll try to condense the rest of our trip.

We had lunch in Ollantaytambo. We all tried alpaca steaks with elderberries and mash.

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I had a glass of wine which was a mistake as I had an awful headache all night.

We stayed in a lovely small hotel for our last night in comfort for the next six nights would be sleeping in tents.

The next morning we were collected by van where we met our Chef and his assistant.

Gillian had had a bad night also but with a stomach problem so we were starting our wilderness adventure with a shaky start.

We were driven to a small village to meet our horse handlers and their horses. These were to carry everything required to sustain 10 of us for the next four nights.

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After sorting out our day packs and filling small bags with dried fruit and nuts to carry as snacks we set off slightly uphill. We were leaving the fertile Sacred Valley and heading to more wild terrain. José, the guide, took a phone call in the last minutes of having any contact with the outside world. His 10 month old daughter had just had a hip operation and the call was to say all had gone well so that made this trip easier for him.

We stopped to look back after some minutes. The mountain with its glacier is Veronika and we would see this ma y times from different angles during the trek.

The fertile Sacred Valley
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And Veronika. Named after the first woman to climb it. A German. Good job she wasn't called Helga!
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We walked slowly, firstly to let us acclimatise and secondly to let the horses, once loaded, pass us so the lunch camp could be set up for us. The Chef, Santiago, worked miracles with the facilities he had. Our first lunch was three courses. Avocado starter followed by soup then Lomo Salteado.

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Lunch camp with Santiago in his Chef's "Whites".

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Must keep up the standards don'tcha know!

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After lunch and siesta we struggled upwards (slowly). We passed two farmers ploughing with bulls.

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One of the farmers asked José for a recommendation for a job as a horseman with the tour companies. Most of the farmers grow potatoes and get approximately 20p per kilo for them. Not much to support a family.

We reached the overnight camp. Martin retired with a headache and Gillian retired with her bad stomach. Which brings me to say a bit about Adam. After his inauspicious start he turned out to be a really likeable guy. He took all the ribbing he got from us with as much laughter as he gave us. He is a person of two parts. He never stays still. He likes to party, smoke and drink but also is fascinated by travelling and everything he saw. He is willing to do anything for anyone, talks to everyone and struck up a good relationship with us and the crew, who he gave roll-ups to!

At 4pm we had afternoon tea, sandwiches, biscuits, meats, cheeses, jams etc. We didn't eat much (except Adam) as we were to have another cooked meal at 6.30pm. We had to have a talk with José to ask for the meals to be scaled down a little!

Martin missed dinner and Gillian tried to eat but gave up.

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The next morning we had a harsh frost. Martin's head was better but Gillian looked like a ghost. She'd been up most of the night and was now being sick as well as having the runs!

She had two options. Go back and stay in Cusco and miss the trip or continue. She decided to continue, which was brave of her because we were going further and further from civilisation. We had one horse for emergencies which stayed with us as we walked and she was told she could ride it. She "didn't do horses" so she elected to walk and put her pack on the horse. After a couple of hours she had to give in and get on the horse.

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The youngest mber of the crew was sent back to the start to try to get some medication from the health centre. Unfortunately they couldn't supply it so he ran back uphill and passed us halfway to our lunch stop. We later found out that he (Alex) is only 15. All hebowns is a horse and a box radio that he carries everywhere.

We eventually caught up with Gillian at the lunch spot. The crew had set up a tent for her to sleep. It was now my turn again to get a headache and I had to walk through the afternoon suffering from it and it was my turn to retire early and miss dinner!

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José the guide.

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Martin, Adam and José on the route in the morning.
 
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What a great adventure!
It's very sad about Eddie, his passing was very sudden and has been a total shock to many of us.
Keep posting - it's brightening up what has been a sad day

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What a great adventure!
It's very sad about Eddie, his passing was very sudden and has been a total shock to many of us.
Keep posting - it's brightening up what has been a sad day

The news about Eddie put our moans about headaches into perspective. They've gone now and forgotten. Unfortunately Eddie's family have a sad time ahead.
 
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The next day was to be the big climb over a pass of over 4,600 metres. Decisions would be made in the morning. My headache had gone and Gillian was feeling better, so with her pack strapped to the back of Bayo the emergency transport vehicle, we slowly, slowly, climbed with many stops for Gillian (and us) to rest.

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We could see the path climbing above us and we took it section by section until we we almost there. We chose Gillian to reach the cairn first with the rest of us close behind.

We had a long break at the top and José gave us a typical Quechua celebration ceremony with coca leaves and pipe playing.

Alex, our shadow, was with us all the way and he experienced his first look through binoculars
After showing him which end to look through his face was a picture of wonder at what he could see!

He was also asked to take a photo of the four of us with José and he had to be shown twice how to operate the phone camera. How many 15 year olds in Europe don't know how a phone works?

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Alex and Bayo

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Alex and binoculars

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At 4,600 metres

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José

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The red mountain seen from the col

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Martin studying a glacier which has receded since José saw it last year!
 
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We continued on our way, now downhill, for lunch. Both Martin and I declined the food as we had no appetite and slight headaches again. After lunch we continued down to our overnight camp.

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Excellent start, glam-trekking I think! We forgot to pack a chef on our trip. :)

Nothing glamorous about camping for six nights with no shower, just a bowl of hot water morning and evening!

We did have hot water bottles and a chocolate on the pillow each night tho!
 
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The next day would be our final one on this wilderness section before we joined the Inca Trail. Again it was mostly downhill. We met an old guy walking uphill who stopped to talk to José. All the locals we met wanted to talk because they see no people for weeks on end and have no outside contact. This guy had walked down to the valley for 7 hours to catch the train to get some shopping and was returning the next day, another 8 hours uphill!

We stopped again to speak to a shepherd. He must have been 7 years old and was sitting on the hillside with his younger brother and his dogs and sheep. We gave him dried fruit and nuts and some sweets.

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Our nights camp was on an official private campsite but nothing like we're used to. The owner is a woman, Juanita, who lives there mostly alone except when her children stay there also.

Just above the campsite was another Incan ruin which we visited en route.

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José relaxing whilst we had a wander around.

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Juanita lives in the building on the left.

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The toilet block! Luxury of luxuries we had flushing loos, one of which had a door of sorts!
 
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That night we were to say goodbye to our horsemen and say hello to our porters for the next three days. Horses are not allowed on the Inca Trail.

We were sad to see Alex leave, he'd been the one we'd had most contact with but we gave them all a good tip. The tipping culture here is similar to Morocco and made us a little uncomfortable not knowing if we'd given enough or too much. They seemed happy with our contribution so all was well.

Juanita had beers to sell so Adam had a good evening with the horsemen before they left to go home. The rest of us didn't chance it.

The next morning we registered for the Inca Trail and joined the hundreds already trekking along it. A shock to the system after the solitude of the previous four days.

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A rare quiet part of the trail.

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We were once again climbing. The steps were the hardest part. The Incas must have had long legs because some of the steps were very high.

We had to cross the Dead Womans Pass today at 4,200 metres and although we started the day in sunshine we soon entered the clouds and got damp for the first time.

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We crossed the pass and had a steep, jarring descent down to our overnight camp. It was still cloudy and windy so was very cold. We ate and retired to the tents early to let our porters have the mess tent for their sleeping quarters.

The next morning was sunny again and we climbed up and over another pass before visiting more ruins.

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Looking back to Dead Woman's Pass, the lowest V is where we crossed.

 
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Visiting more ruins along the route. Jose's knowledge made it all very interesting.

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On the trail
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And Llamas at lunchtime!
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We continued after lunch to head to our campsite sited on top of a hill.

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On the way José showed us a flower that is supposed to look like a slipper. I thought it looked more like a duck.

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We walked to a viewpoint overlooking another temple. We would explore this the next morning.

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No sunset as we had low clouds but we had good views of the mountains and glaciers the next morning.

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This was our last day of trekking, culminating at Machu Picchu. We were lucky to have another sunny day. The walk was mainly downhill or flat until the last part up steep steps to the Sun Gate.
 
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I am loving this! It's bringing back such memories. I took this journey in 2001. You describe the steps exactly as I remember them. We certainly didn't get the catering that you have though!
Thank you for sharing.

Lorraine x

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