My DIY damp repair project

[The_Kraken]

Can you get joining tape in the same colour as the board? I had an Autosleeper repair done that way (not damp, it just unglued itself a bit)

I’ll have a search for it.

 

[davejen]

Interesting, what type of wood should I be using? and how / where do I get it pressure treated?

It’s looking like a couple of short lengths are required? is pressure treating them necessary?

as i said in my earlier post try to get some offcuts of mahogany from a local window company, this is hardwood and will last the life of your m/home. you will probably have to shape it to size.
Cheers, Dave

 

[scotzsue]

I did look 0n the O’Leary website but couldn’t see the right wallboard. Magnum’s definitely have it though. Going to buy a 4 pack of it. Kenkle I believe it’s called.

Be aware if looking again that O'Leary only have a fraction of their stock on the website. Having been there, it's just up the road, can understand why.
Am watching your progress with interest.

 

[Ivory55]

Another way is to buy some timber preservatives and totally imerse the timber in it using a large bucket or plastic drum etc. Leaving it to soak for 24/48 hours. Will stop any spread of rot.

 

[Nostrovia]

Better still, buy pressure treated wood. All the sheds stock it, if you can find an appropriate size. Freshly treated wood shrinks as it dries.

Buy multi-tool blades on eBay, they're really good and much cheaper.

Stixall adhesive won't disolve anything, is very strong, and cures in the presence of water. It'lI stick more or less anything very well, but doesn't cure quickly in the current temperatures (unless you use your heater).

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[Ivory55]

Better still, buy pressure treated wood. All the sheds stock it, if you can find an appropriate size. Freshly treated wood shrinks as it dries.

Buy multi-tool blades on eBay, they're really good and much cheaper.

Stixall adhesive won't disolve anything, is very strong, and cures in the presence of water. It'lI stick more or less anything very well, but doesn't cure quickly in the current temperatures (unless you use your heater).

If you cut pressure treated timber it is less resistant at that point. If cut to size first the treatment is equal all around, as the treatment does not penetrate right through the timber only X amount in to the timber.

 

[The_Kraken]

Thanks for all the tips fellas.

Another thing I need to ask about.....when I took the doors off, there was old sealant everywhere. It looks like no nails as it was a buff / grey colour and was still soft? Was this a previous attempt at sealing using ‘no nails’? or is this decent stuff a d that is how decent stuff ends up?

 

[Nostrovia]

If you cut pressure treated timber it is less resistant at that point. If cut to size first the treatment is equal all around, as the treatment does not penetrate right through the timber only X amount in to the timber.

It's rated for outdoor use, so should be fine as (covered) framing. And if the cut edges are a concern, just treat them.

 

[Nostrovia]

Thanks for all the tips fellas.

Another thing I need to ask about.....when I took the doors off, there was old sealant everywhere. It looks like no nails as it was a buff / grey colour and was still soft? Was this a previous attempt at sealing using ‘no nails’? or is this decent stuff a d that is how decent stuff ends up?

There are also non setting sealants, for example . These don't set, and seal supported joints which might flex. For example an awning rail (or your windows and Thetford type doors) might be sealed with it, but they won't hold any unsupported weight without a mechanical fixing.

 

[Figaro]

Another thing I need to ask about.....when I took the doors off, there was old sealant everywhere. It looks like no nails as it was a buff / grey colour and was still soft? Was this a previous attempt at sealing using ‘no nails’? or is this decent stuff a d that is how decent stuff ends up?

Be aware that in some situations it is better to use non setting sealant rather than the PU adhesive /sealant such as Sikaflex.
Fitting of roof lights is one situation but there are others where it is preferable.
Great thread by the way

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[The_Kraken]

There are also non setting sealants, for example . These don't set, and seal supported joints which might flex. For example an awning rail.

So, it more than likely was something like no nails then? It feels like putty.

I’ve seen it in other places on the MH so, I’d love to know if it’s crap stuff or if that is how it is supposed to look?

 

[Ismbardbrunel]

If your planning to stop the leak, as i assume you are, then there is no need to use pressure treated materials...

 

[The_Kraken]

Be aware that in some situations it is better to use non setting sealant rather than the PU adhesive /sealant such as Sikaflex.
Fitting of roof lights is one situation but there are others where it is preferable.
Great thread by the way

That makes sense, thank you. I don’t suppose you and or anyone could do a bit of a list of what sealant to use where please? This is what the purpose of this thread is all about, giving a good base of knowledge for anyone wanting to tackle this kind of repair but are struggling to find the info.

 

[The_Kraken]

If your planning to stop the leak, as i assume you are, then there is no need to use pressure treated materials...

I’m 100% sure the leak was the door frame (in the case of the hab door). The rot in the corner by the locker door was also caused by a badly sealed frame.

So I need to make sure I seal them with the right sealant

 

[Ivory55]

It's rated for outdoor use, so should be fine as (covered) framing. And if the cut edges are a concern, just treat them.

I only know what I was told by the treatment place. I only delivered the stuff to manufacture. Also they don’t use off the shelf sizes some of it is run up to their spec. But I would stand corrected by people with greater knowledge.

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[rosalan]

https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/c.../idl-mastic-non-setting-caravan-sealant-white.

You could also use black windscreen sealant as a glue

 

[haganap]

So, it more than likely was something like no nails then? It feels like putty.

I’ve seen it in other places on the MH so, I’d love to know if it’s crap stuff or if that is how it is supposed to look?

No it's a bedding sealant that comes in a role. I got some when I changed a door on one of my vans from @CLS . it's used on doors and window frames prior to sealing which is then added.

 

[haganap]

similar to this, installed at factory https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/161414003222?chn=ps

 

[irnbru]

They dont’t have the wallboard paper but, I found that on another site.

I don't need any but yours is the same wallpaper as mine. Always handy to know where you got it incase me or anyone else needs some in the future. You are doing a great job , thanks for posting. It's an interesting thread.

 

[The_Kraken]

I don't need any but yours is the same wallpaper as mine. Always handy to know where you got it incase me or anyone else needs some in the future. You are doing a great job , thanks for posting. It's an interesting thread.

Thank you!

I will do a list of materials and supplier links

Just need to figure out all these adhesives lol

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[The_Kraken]

similar to this, installed at factory https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/161414003222?chn=ps

So this stuff will be ok to run around the door frames to help bond those. Then, run a sealant round the outside of them?

 

[Mike800966]

Great work! Take it slowly and it will be fine.
Have used a bedding sealant for rooflight problems and stixall for all sorts of glueing where there is the possibility of movement.
First met it for glueing plastic to stainless steel!. Excellent product. Other excellent wood glues use the moisture in the timber and foam up to fill gaps, can't remember the name.

 

[Mike800966]

Just a thought, certainly before using a tape type product would be to ensure the surfaces are fully degreased. use meths or aerosol spray . I think brake cleaner might be OK but not contact cleaner!
Mike

 

[mitzimad]

magnums sell the rolls of bedding mastic they also do H section plastic board jointers in cream

 

[mfw]

You could go on the sikaflex site that would give you an idea of what you can use and where not the cheapest product but if you know what you can use you could look for same/similar product from a cheaper source

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[haganap]

So this stuff will be ok to run around the door frames to help bond those. Then, run a sealant round the outside of them?

Yes that's the way it's done in the factory..

 

[mfw]

Everyone probably does thing differently but maybe some G clamps similar to a mastic tube applicator to hold bits in place - and if worried about joining the wood you could also cut a bit more insulation away and put a brace between the original and the new wood - you can always use squirty foam insulation if you lose too much original insulation

 

[The_Kraken]

Thanks fellas. I’ll do a bit of research and put a list up of things i’m going to use and where.

I’m not necessarily worried about finding the cheapest product. I’d rather have the best for the job as I don’t want to be doing this every so often!

 

[Lenny HB]

Looks like you are doing a great job, I've been there & done it on a caravan many years ago.
When you glue the wall boards back on you obviously need to brace them to keep the board in contact with the adhesive, also what you must do is brace the outside wall of the van as well or you will probably end up with a nice curve in the wall (guess how I found this out).
I'm not a fan of the mastic bedding strip, it tends to shrink in sunlight, I would stay with Sika products.

 

[The_Kraken]

Looks like you are doing a great job, I've been there & done it on a caravan many years ago.
When you glue the wall boards back on you obviously need to brace them to keep the board in contact with the adhesive, also what you must do is brace the outside wall of the van as well or you will probably end up with a nice curve in the wall (guess how I found this out).
I'm not a fan of the mastic bedding strip, it tends to shrink in sunlight, I would stay with Sika products.

Cheers Lenny. It seems very obvious when you say it like that.....yet it would’ve been something I would’ve totally overlooked (the bracing part I mean!)

Thank you for the tip!

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