Looking for advice on my 1997 Cockburn-Holdsworth Sonata

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Hi :)

I recently bought my first little motor home! It was considerably cheaper than others of its age as it needed some work. The inside is spotless. It’s currently in the garage having four new tyres, timing belt change, auxiliary belt changed, new water pump and new wiper pump and a service. There is some welding that neeeds doing and I’m wondering if anyone could advise me on a)what I might be looking at cost-wise roughly and b)weather it’s worth doing properly or will I be throwing good money after bad?

As far as I can tell the sills need replacing and several small patches (photos below) need sorting out. Is this something I could sort with 2-3k?

The van was a good price so happy to spend 4-5k on it.

Grateful for any advice.
 

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Does it have a long MOT?
Did you look at previous MOT history for work done/advisories etc before buying?
 
It has four months at the moment and yes I did check MOT history.
 
It had some welding done 2 years ago. All to a high standard though.

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The biggest problem with rust is that usually what you see is the tip of the iceberg.
If paying to have it done you could be looking at a money pit.
Panels and patches are cheap its the time and labour that are the killers.
I welded all the problems on my vw t25 . Panel cost was probably £200 , a sheet of steel around £30.
But i had a welder, wire, gas and the space to do it on my drive .
If i hadnt done it myself it would have been uneconomical to have had it done, would have run into many thousands.
Get some Quotes for it first but insist on seeing the quality of their work.
Many garages are shit welders and will tack panels on then cover with bathroom silicone and undercoat etc.
 
Ask the garage where it’s at currently, while it’s up in the ramp to have a good look and give their opinion/advice.
I did that. Unfortunately they aren’t welders. They told me it wasn’t to bad and was totally fixable. I’ve been under the van myself and apart from these spots it sounds and looks solid.
 
Aylesbury. Looking for some work? 😁

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I was going to say i would have a look but im in Chesterfield, sorry.
 
I'd start asking around to find people who deal with classic car repairs not shiny flashy places but ones who repair classics that get used. Maybe try the local mini , triumph and vw owners clubs.
 
1st off get some cream for your Cockburn😳

Seriously though you need a quote from a bodywork garage..they can tell you if it's not economical to repair.
Remember paintwork after body repair is expensive also..2-3k sounds do able though

Good luck 🤞🏽
 
Get them to check areas around the holes .
It spreads to areas you cant see and usually from the inside out.
Not wanting to scare you , just make you aware of how it can spread.
Get quotes and as has been mentioned , classic car restorers would be best.
 
Get them to check areas around the holes .
It spreads to areas you cant see and usually from the inside out.
Not wanting to scare you , just make you aware of how it can spread.
Get quotes and as has been mentioned , classic car restorers would be best.
Thank you for the advice!
 
I was considering scrapping my Iveco several years ago until I found a place in Tavistock that do nothing except weld vehicles. I couldn't believe how quick, thorough (I was there when they did it) and cheap they were.
It was only a tiny, dingy, back street garage but these places do exist and can quite easily resurrect a rusty van.
 
It has four months at the moment and yes I did check MOT history.
I'd drive it west country or north and have a holiday at the same time.

No point spending Buckinghamshire prices on welding!!! (That's if you can find anywhere that know what to do!)

Cheers James (originally from Penn!)
 
We spent nearly five grand having a lot of welding done on our 95 Duetto after we had owned it for four years. The worst being a screen pillar and scuttle when a cracked screen was an MOT fail looming.
Two years later the tester spotted more structural rust in the front end of the rear spring hanger mount under the shower floor. As much as it hurt I couldn’t face the idea of having to pay for the interior being stripped to carry out the repairs.
We had the underside rust proofed when we bought it by an alleged professional company because I lost the use of a workshop to do it my self as I did with my Landrovers.
Good luck with the search for a repairer in you’re area.

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Dare I say this is cart before the horse, make a decision on the corrosion and repair then the service items if viable of course.
Take the opportunity to change brake hoses often forgotten, that will facilitate brake fluid change also, try not to forget from hub bearing grease and gearbox oil.( Ensure correct grade and viscosity used GL4 from memory)
I believe the van has many years ahead entrusted to a competent and trustworthy welder. However try to get the sequence of attack in a logical order is key in my view.
 
Doesn't look too bad, those holes in the crossmember bits look the worse and will need cutting out and refabricating.
Important to find a good welder not a back street MOT bodger.
Have a good check around all the suspension mounting points that could determine if its worth keeping.
As said should have got the body sorted before spending money on the mechanicals.
 
Look for someone who does 'MOT welding'
Good luck(y)
 
Look for someone who does 'MOT welding'
Good luck(y)
I thought of suggesting that but it depends if you want to keep it. Back in the day my first car was an Austin Maxi. I think as a design it was way ahead of its time a hatchback front wheel drive 5 speed box etc the only problem being the sills were pretty good and the floor they just we'rent joined together anymore. It would have been an easy fix to get an mot but to get it to a point where it was unlikely to recur in a year or two would have been a lot harder.

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"MoT " welders will ( generaly) weld what they need to get it through the mot.
Stay clear of them.
As said in a few posts a specialist car restorer is the way to go.
 
Our old postman spent a fortune on an old VW camper, his choice and probably did more than it needed, but he had already owned it a few years and expects to keep it many more, he also did the same with an early Ford capri. 😁
Our daughter has an old VW camper and spent a lot of money on it, because its Dylan and part of the family. 😁

Only you can decide, keep it going and enjoy, or get shot of it and probably loose money anyway. 🤔🙂

Many years ago when we worked, we had a couple of ex electric board HA Van's, one I was going to scrap being rotten underneath, a friend of mine wouldn't hear of it, bring it round I will weld it up, he spent all weekend working on it and it was stronger than a new one. 😁

You need a friend 😉 like Tam Northernraider 😁 nothings impossible. 😎 Bob.
 
Nothing there that cant be fixed ...you will probably find that each bit thats corroded will end up 5 times the size by the time you clean it all out but thats best in the longrun . Dont just patch it as you will just have to weld it every year afterwards .
 
I would concentrate of structural rust first
The superficial rust can wait and be treated later.
Rust and MOT can be a mystery.....
Seat belt anchor points have to have sound metal for around 12" surrounding the anchor but beyond that it can be rotten.
A workmate had an old Ford Granada which presented him with an MOT repair bill every year for rust
It was usually £400/£500 every year, sometimes welding over the previous years repair due to rust spreading.
After 3 or 4 years he saw sense and scrapped it
 
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I'd start asking around to find people who deal with classic car repairs not shiny flashy places but ones who repair classics that get used. Maybe try the local mini , triumph and vw owners clubs.
Thanks Wino. A couple of others have suggested restoration company’s.

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