Jones’s Maiden Voyage

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Yesterday’s map
 
Looking at your map now...
We were in Eger a few years ago. A pretty town and an interesting wine region.
I remember driving from Slovakia. It was quite an intense experience, driving at night through a dense forest to cross the border as if we were hiding or smugglers 😶
Just a little miscalculation between stops.
 
Looking at your map now...
We were in Eger a few years ago. A pretty town and an interesting wine region.
I remember driving from Slovakia. It was quite an intense experience, driving at night through a dense forest to cross the border as if we were hiding or smugglers 😶
Just a little miscalculation between stops.

We had a similar experience. We’re not visiting Eger this time as we had a fairly long stay there back in 2004 when we were driving to Ukraine in the middle of winter - in a Land Rover not a camper though! After nearly driving into a river in pitch darkness because our Tom Tom thought there was a bridge there, we left Hungary and tried to enter Ukraine but were turned back as we didn’t have an original of our vehicle’s V5C with us. Sound familiar? :)

We thought we’d be stuck in No Man’s land, but the Hungarian border guards readmitted us to the EU, and we drove back to Eger and waited there while Rog’s mother couriered the document to us. It’s a very good town to visit - The Valley of the Beautiful Women is a horseshoe of little caves offering wine-tastings. We also had a delicious stew of cocks’ testicles. There were a lot, they must have been saving them up for ages.
 
I have earplugs so I can sleep through Rog’s heavy snoring!
Oh Jane - what have you started!!!

Ear plugs for me were a disaster. Uncomfortable, and I could still hear the ‘get the knife out of the kitchen drawer’ inducing noise 🤬

For me the most successful ‘remedy’ has been a wedge pillow - he hates it, but it works!

Loving your thread by the way!
 
What a fabulous thread. We seem to no longer get excited by the idea of expensive fine dining, perhaps we have done too much or just have old digestive systems.

Most impressed you can sleep through heavy rain in your van too.
For us it’s more a case of ‘what you’ve never had, you’ll never miss’! 🤣

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For us it’s more a case of ‘what you’ve never had, you’ll never miss’! 🤣
I wouldn’t want you to think it used to be gourmet meals all the time.

We travelled to South Africa with a group of friends ten years ago. Every nice was big posh meals and lots of wine. It wasn’t expensive but we just got bored with eating like that. They were quite offended when we ducked out and went to a local cafe one evening. Ironically we had a fantastic meal.

We are still good friends but we don’t travel with many of them anymore because they still dine out like that every evening.
 
I wouldn’t want you to think it used to be gourmet meals all the time.

We travelled to South Africa with a group of friends ten years ago. Every nice was big posh meals and lots of wine. It wasn’t expensive but we just got bored with eating like that. They were quite offended when we ducked out and went to a local cafe one evening. Ironically we had a fantastic meal.

We are still good friends but we don’t travel with many of them anymore because they still dine out like that every evening.
Didn’t think that at all! 👍 We’ve just watched too many Masterchef’s (or is it The Great British Menu) to know it wouldn’t be for us!

I think it’s a bit like the art world - where people are scared to say ‘what a load of tosh’ to those that are waxing lyrical about things no one else can see!
:rofl:
 
For those with partners who snore really badly, buy them a CPAP and make them use it, although it's primary function is to control obstructive sleep apnea, they do an excellent job of snore suppression and your partner will probably wake up feeling much better in the morning. (y)
 
We awoke to a slightly grey and muggy day and made the very sensible decision to give Flynn a walk in the cool woods. There was a footpath sign to somewhere whose name I’ve forgotten - either I’m getting dementia or it was in Hungarian. Let’s say it was Recem-völgyi Kút, for example. As we trekked through the huge trees, we amused ourselves by trying to guess what Recem-völgyi Kút was. We started off with streams, then waterfalls, and by the end it was a hovercraft full of eels.

It turned out to be a meeting of two paths, not in anyway different from any other meeting of two paths. A little further on there was this -

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- which Rog translated as “Graduate Termites Do Not Enter.” We wondered if their subject was physics, in which case perhaps we could admit them to the Motorhome Fun Physics Council. Sadly not though - when I translated it by typing it in just now it just turns out to mean “strictly protected natural area, entry only with permission.”

Whoops.

We set off for Tokaj, and accidentally happened upon Musical Road 2.



This one plays the Hungarian folk song “Érik a szőlő” or “The grapes are getting ripe,” so fairly seasonally appropriate. Don’t drive it in January. We are pleased to relate that Musical Road 2 is much better than Musical Road 3. Worth a detour, as the Michelin guide used to say.

By the time we reached Tokaj, the sun was out in force and the temperature had reached 30 degrees. We managed a short mooch around town, but it was pretty much closed for repairs and painful in the midday sun anyway.

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I did buy a bottle of wine - not the traditional sweet stuff as one of us has a habit of buying pudding wines for Christmas and then not drinking anything other than beer.

We ate lunch in Jones with the aircon full on. It is great to be able to use it from the leisure battery like this, rather than needing hook-up as we did in Denby. I made a watermelon and goat’s cheese salad, dressed with Austrian croutons, and a sour cherry harissa, olive oil & vinegar dressing. Not bad. The chilli paste from the market was ferocious :)

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It was difficult to know what to do after that. We didn’t want another long driving day, but if we were to stop early we wanted to be able to get the table and chairs out and relax in the shade. Despite Jones being so autark, as the Germans would say, we thought we probably did want a campsite. Hungary is weird - there don’t seem to be many farm or vineyard stops and nor many aires, so the choice is really wild camping, with its restrictions, or campsites. The latter can be very expensive - I was all for springing for one attached to a thermal bath complex - €50 but including entry to all the pools. But then I also found a much more reasonably priced place right on the River Tisza, so we chose that instead.

Garmin chose us an adventurous route to get there!



It turned out to be a really good choice. We were the only van on a lovely little riverside campsite that was mostly a restaurant destination for people arriving by boat. We asked one couple leaving how far they had to travel home and the answer was 20km! Luckily speed limits seem to be higher than they are on the Thames.

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We shared an aubergine pureé starter, and then both had catfish, which we suspect to be the massive fish that are leaping to flies all around us on the river. Delicious, though as usual massive, so Flynn has a catfish breakfast tomorrow.

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We left the camp site quite early as it was a big driving day. It might also be a big camping week so first to a local supermarket: Tesco. Tesco is about as inspiring in Hungary as it is in the UK. Despite that we managed to stock up on booze, a local sausage and bread.

Then a couple of hours drive to the Romanian border. Lots of people (and the lack of a V5C) had made us fairly trepidatious about this crossing but it was very easy. There wasn’t even any culture shock compared to Austria - Hungary. Romania is also immediately easier to deal with - Romanian is a Romance language so you can guess a lot of the words and at least pronounce the ones you can’t guess. We are also back in the world of sane motorway tolls so we can travel on the grown-up roads. Still, no motorways this far north as we drove within a stones throw of the Ukrainian border.

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🇺🇦✌️💪🏻

Our only real stop was Sapinta to see its Merry Cemetery. The Merry Cemetery is a function of the local Dacian culture which holds that as the soul is immortal, death is a moment filled with joy and anticipation for a better life. I suppose the implication is that this here now - you reading my words - is purgatory and the next bit is better. Anyway, their graves are little cartoons and happy stories or even jokes.


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Note admonishing finger

Google translates this as

UNDER THIS HEAVY CROSS LYES MY POOR MOTHER-IN-LAW THREE DAYS AWAY WE LAY HER DESIRE YOU WHO PASS BY HERE TRY TO DECIDE THAT HOME IF SHE CAME AND LOOKED AT ME WITH YOUR MOUTH YES SO I WOULD BEAR IT. THOSE WHO READ HERE DON'T SUFFER FROM YOUR BELOVED MOTHER-IN-LAW FIND A HOUSE TO LIVE IN

This was particularly apposite because on the way up here we’d been listening to a podcast about British humour and the fact that the mother-in-law joke was uniquely British but dead.

The graveyard was quite something but the church was no slouch either.

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A very exciting final judgement

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…and a good array of saints

Not quite so noteworthy but a big difference to Hungary is that Romania is definitely a tourist destination. The streets to the cemetery were stuffed with tat vendors.

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Our stop for the night was Camping Păstrăvul a small field at the end of a narrow road. On the way up we got stuck behind a horse and cart. Everyone who’s been to Romania talks about this but I’d dismissed it. We’ve seen five horse drawn carts since then. As I try to decide if I’ll replace my three year old Apple Watch in a few days time, It’s sobering to see such an old technology remaining useful and well used.

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Horses about to pull in to allow us to pass.

In the field we got talking to a solo Belgian, some Czech bikers and a Swiss couple in a 4x4. We’d seen two of these groups on the road over here. I get the feeling that Northern Romania is like the NC500 and we’ll be meeting the same people over the next few weeks.

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Biker tents and Swiss roof tent.

Across the road from Restaurant Păstrăvul which serves its own trout in three ways: fried in polenta, fried near polenta and fried with polenta a small distance away. I had “in” jane had “a small distance away”. They were both great. The waiter spoke excellent English and it turned out he’d been an electrician in Romford before Brexit.

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Local trout in and near polenta.

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We're liking the off- roading and Flynn photos. We're currently looking for our next dog. We do like Spinoni's and long haired German pointers (lhgp). We stopped a chap today in Intra to ask if his dog was a Spinoni He said no it was a lhgp. Last week we'd stopped a guy and asked if was a lhgp. That time it was a Spinoni. :giggle:.
 
We left the camp site quite early as it was a big driving day. It might also be a big camping week so first to a local supermarket: Tesco. Tesco is about as inspiring in Hungary as it is in the UK. Despite that we managed to stock up on booze, a local sausage and bread.

Then a couple of hours drive to the Romanian border. Lots of people (and the lack of a V5C) had made us fairly trepidatious about this crossing but it was very easy. There wasn’t even any culture shock compared to Austria - Hungary. Romania is also immediately easier to deal with - Romanian is a Romance language so you can guess a lot of the words and at least pronounce the ones you can’t guess. We are also back in the world of sane motorway tolls so we can travel on the grown-up roads. Still, no motorways this far north as we drove within a stones throw of the Ukrainian border.

View attachment 1113976
🇺🇦✌️💪🏻

Our only real stop was Sapinta to see its Merry Cemetery. The Merry Cemetery is a function of the local Dacian culture which holds that as the soul is immortal, death is a moment filled with joy and anticipation for a better life. I suppose the implication is that this here now - you reading my words - is purgatory and the next bit is better. Anyway, their graves are little cartoons and happy stories or even jokes.


View attachment 1113981
Note admonishing finger

Google translates this as



This was particularly apposite because on the way up here we’d been listening to a podcast about British humour and the fact that the mother-in-law joke was uniquely British but dead.

The graveyard was quite something but the church was no slouch either.

View attachment 1113983
A very exciting final judgement

View attachment 1113985
…and a good array of saints

Not quite so noteworthy but a big difference to Hungary is that Romania is definitely a tourist destination. The streets to the cemetery were stuffed with tat vendors.

View attachment 1113986

Our stop for the night was Camping Păstrăvul a small field at the end of a narrow road. On the way up we got stuck behind a horse and cart. Everyone who’s been to Romania talks about this but I’d dismissed it. We’ve seen five horse drawn carts since then. As I try to decide if I’ll replace my three year old Apple Watch in a few days time, It’s sobering to see such an old technology remaining useful and well used.

View attachment 1113989
Horses about to pull in to allow us to pass.

In the field we got talking to a solo Belgian, some Czech bikers and a Swiss couple in a 4x4. We’d seen two of these groups on the road over here. I get the feeling that Northern Romania is like the NC500 and we’ll be meeting the same people over the next few weeks.

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Biker tents and Swiss roof tent.

Across the road from Restaurant Păstrăvul which serves its own trout in three ways: fried in polenta, fried near polenta and fried with polenta a small distance away. I had “in” jane had “a small distance away”. They were both great. The waiter spoke excellent English and it turned out he’d been an electrician in Romford before Brexit.

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Local trout in and near polenta.

We are really interested in this trip as Romania is on the list. You both write so well it is a joy to read.
 
If you keep north, skimming the Ukraine border, you will miss Bistrita, Colibita, but you can do that on the way back.
But is nice to continue the way you started, carry on to Borsa, there is a nice national park, Prislop mountains. On from there to Vatra Dornei, few bits to see there. And on to Cimpulung Moldovenesc. Here there is Trans Rarau, a must if you pass by, This area is the highest concentration of old medieval Monasteries and very interested places. We are not far from Putna, a very old monastery with a very interesting legend.

Have you tried sheep cheese yet? It goes nice with hot mamaliga (polenta), and a tripe soup with garlic and cream. IMG_8240.webp
You are not that far now.
 
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I visited the Merry Cemetery about 12-15 years ago and was able to park the van where those tat vendors are. Times have changed and, from what you say, Romania has taken advantage of its EU money and become a popular tourist spot.
There were horses and carts everywhere. On one occasion I was overtaken by a galloping horse pulling a rickety cart with a young driver who had clearly lost control of the horse because it crashed through a picket fence and threw the driver off the cart, smashing his teeth and breaking his nose. We stopped to assist, along with others from the village, but when the cart driver started pointing at us with an accusatory finger we thought it was time to leave.
We did a lot of wild camping in Romania but some of the few official camps we stayed in were run by Dutch families who had settled there as missionaries after Ceausescu was executed and had helped to clean-up and dismantle the terrible orphanages.
 
We're liking the off- roading and Flynn photos. We're currently looking for our next dog. We do like Spinoni's and long haired German pointers (lhgp). We stopped a chap today in Intra to ask if his dog was a Spinoni He said no it was a lhgp. Last week we'd stopped a guy and asked if was a lhgp. That time it was a Spinoni. :giggle:.

Flynn’s always being confused with a spinone. They’re heavier set though, droolier, and not as energetic - I’d go for a German Wirehaired Pointer every time. Don’t know much about the long-haired ones.

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His new seat!

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If you keep north, skimming the Ukraine border, you will miss Bistrita, Colibita, but you can do that on the way back.
But is nice to continue the way you started, carry on to Borsa, there is a nice national park, Prislop mountains. On from there to Vatra Dornei, few bits to see there. And on to Cimpulung Moldovenesc. Here there is Trans Rarau, a must if you pass by, This area is the highest concentration of old medieval Monasteries and very interested places. We are not far from Putna, a very old monastery with a very interesting legend.

Have you tried sheep cheese yet? It goes nice with hot mamaliga (polenta), and a tripe soup with garlic and cream. View attachment 1114094
You are not that far now.

Thank you! We are thinking of keeping northish and would then love to call in and see you, if the offer is still open? Tips of places to visit are very welcome :)

What is the tripe soup called? My kind of food.
 
Flynn’s always being confused with a spinone. They’re heavier set though, droolier, and not as energetic - I’d go for a German Wirehaired Pointer every time. Don’t know much about the long-haired ones.

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His new seat!
And every time someone passes them all you hear is * Look at that dog's eyebrows!* If our circumstances were different we would have another Wirehaired pointer in a flash, they are great companions and very energetic but take twice as long as a Lab to train!

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we would have another Wirehaired pointer in a flash, they are great companions and very energetic but take twice as long as a Lab to train
Nobody told us you could train them. I need to have a word with Flynn, he’s been keeping this fact very quiet.

Looks like Flynn approves of the new van. 🤣
He didn’t for a while. New == bad. But he seems very happy now. He just needed to get used to the fact that Jones goes to interesting places full of chickens as much as Denby did.
 
We started the day with a walk up the river valley and into the thick forests.

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It was lovely and cool and Flynn enjoyed some river bathing with a side of stick chewing.

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Back at Jones, we broke camp and headed back to the Merry Cemetery. Yesterday’s visit had been a bit fraught and separated, as Rog moved Flynn back to Jones for a while so that we could visit together, and then lost his ticket somehow while doing that, so we had to tag team with mine anyway!

IMG_4600.webp


We’d both missed the gravestone of Ioan Stan Pătraş, just outside the main church. He was the wood sculptor who, in 1935, started carving the crosses to mark graves in the old church cemetery. The painted pictures and inscriptions on all the graves illustrate a wealth of traditional occupations: here are a teacher and a policeman - it’s not all women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep. (Although it’s mostly women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep.)

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As I mentioned, Pătraş carved and painted his own cross, complete with a portrait of himself, and here it is.

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But the other reason our return visit turned out to be such a good idea was that it was Sunday, and everyone in town was turning up to the service in their very best traditional clothes!

The priest’s singing and the responses of the congregation were amplified to the outside, and made an atmospheric background to our second viewing of the graves.



Revisiting done, we decided on a healthy lunch - deep-fried doughnut bread with sour cream and cheese. We think it’s called a placintă, which sounds deeply worrying, but was actually delicious. The sour cream here is really special and reminds me of the stuff we had in Ukraine - we must try to buy some for Jones. Well, not for Jones, he prefers diesel, but for us when cooking in Jones.

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As we headed off through several little villages, the church services there were finishing, and the roads were lined with the congregation heading home in their Sunday best.

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We’ve also noticed many big, new, expensive churches - religion must be booming here.

Our first new visit of the day was to the church at Deseşti, famed for its interior paintings. They were quite special! Every possible surface seemed to be covered in designs - in fact, I was nervous that if I stood still for too long I’d be covered head to toe in apostles.

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After that we made our way to Babou Maramures camping - a quiet little site run by a Dutch guy and his partner. First order of the day was to get a wash done - a service wash at that, so very convenient! Although less convenient when it came back, and it turned out he’d put the whole lot, laundry bag and all, in the washer. I’d forgotten that there was one of those stick things of Vanish at the bottom of it, so now our clothes are so stain free that they have no colour at all, they’re just transparent. I’ll spare you future shots of Rog in his “clean” shorts bending to tie his shoe laces…

As an antidote to fried dough, I made us a veggie curry - lots of red pepper, tomatoes, onions, garlic and chickpeas. I even tried my hand at a flatbread, and it wasn’t bad at all.

IMG_4610.webp


After dinner we had a stroll around the village. One of the visiting village dogs accompanied us - as ever Flynn wasn’t too keen on her when there was a chance of her nicking any dropped food, but totally fine when she was his companion on a walk. The village was lovely, with most houses having large orchards and massive woodpiles ready for the winter.

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The ppl around the north are very religious, wait until you get into Suceava county, Bucovina. Every village has a church or two, and many monasteries, over 40. Also we share allot of similarities in food with Polish, Ukrainian, Bulgarian etc. Totally different to the rest in the south. Tomorrow, Monday is a religious holiday, (Saint Marry) so you must heard the bells this evening, a call for the christians to gather and celebrate it at the church the next day. I hear the bells, yes is a holly day tomorrow. My wife goes nuts as we can't do any chores on holly days. Is a sin if you do, and you'll be talked. I have no time and get on with it, but try to be discreet.

Forgot to say, partial moon eclipse red orange is visible now.

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We started the day with a walk up the river valley and into the thick forests.

View attachment 1114411

It was lovely and cool and Flynn enjoyed some river bathing with a side of stick chewing.

View attachment 1114412

Back at Jones, we broke camp and headed back to the Merry Cemetery. Yesterday’s visit had been a bit fraught and separated, as Rog moved Flynn back to Jones for a while so that we could visit together, and then lost his ticket somehow while doing that, so we had to tag team with mine anyway!

View attachment 1114413

We’d both missed the gravestone of Ioan Stan Pătraş, just outside the main church. He was the wood sculptor who, in 1935, started carving the crosses to mark graves in the old church cemetery. The painted pictures and inscriptions on all the graves illustrate a wealth of traditional occupations: here are a teacher and a policeman - it’s not all women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep. (Although it’s mostly women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep.)

View attachment 1114415

View attachment 1114416

As I mentioned, Pătraş carved and painted his own cross, complete with a portrait of himself, and here it is.

View attachment 1114417

But the other reason our return visit turned out to be such a good idea was that it was Sunday, and everyone in town was turning up to the service in their very best traditional clothes!

The priest’s singing and the responses of the congregation were amplified to the outside, and made an atmospheric background to our second viewing of the graves.



Revisiting done, we decided on a healthy lunch - deep-fried doughnut bread with sour cream and cheese. We think it’s called a placintă, which sounds deeply worrying, but was actually delicious. The sour cream here is really special and reminds me of the stuff we had in Ukraine - we must try to buy some for Jones. Well, not for Jones, he prefers diesel, but for us when cooking in Jones.

View attachment 1114420

As we headed off through several little villages, the church services there were finishing, and the roads were lined with the congregation heading home in their Sunday best.

View attachment 1114421

We’ve also noticed many big, new, expensive churches - religion must be booming here.

Our first new visit of the day was to the church at Deseşti, famed for its interior paintings. They were quite special! Every possible surface seemed to be covered in designs - in fact, I was nervous that if I stood still for too long I’d be covered head to toe in apostles.

View attachment 1114422

View attachment 1114426

After that we made our way to Babou Maramures camping - a quiet little site run by a Dutch guy and his partner. First order of the day was to get a wash done - a service wash at that, so very convenient! Although less convenient when it came back, and it turned out he’d put the whole lot, laundry bag and all, in the washer. I’d forgotten that there was one of those stick things of Vanish at the bottom of it, so now our clothes are so stain free that they have no colour at all, they’re just transparent. I’ll spare you future shots of Rog in his “clean” shorts bending to tie his shoe laces…

As an antidote to fried dough, I made us a veggie curry - lots of red pepper, tomatoes, onions, garlic and chickpeas. I even tried my hand at a flatbread, and it wasn’t bad at all.

View attachment 1114427

After dinner we had a stroll around the village. One of the visiting village dogs accompanied us - as ever Flynn wasn’t too keen on her when there was a chance of her nicking any dropped food, but totally fine when she was his companion on a walk. The village was lovely, with most houses having large orchards and massive woodpiles ready for the winter.

View attachment 1114428

Beautiful pictures, very interesting👍

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We started the day with a walk up the river valley and into the thick forests.

View attachment 1114411

It was lovely and cool and Flynn enjoyed some river bathing with a side of stick chewing.

View attachment 1114412

Back at Jones, we broke camp and headed back to the Merry Cemetery. Yesterday’s visit had been a bit fraught and separated, as Rog moved Flynn back to Jones for a while so that we could visit together, and then lost his ticket somehow while doing that, so we had to tag team with mine anyway!

View attachment 1114413

We’d both missed the gravestone of Ioan Stan Pătraş, just outside the main church. He was the wood sculptor who, in 1935, started carving the crosses to mark graves in the old church cemetery. The painted pictures and inscriptions on all the graves illustrate a wealth of traditional occupations: here are a teacher and a policeman - it’s not all women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep. (Although it’s mostly women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep.)

View attachment 1114415

View attachment 1114416

As I mentioned, Pătraş carved and painted his own cross, complete with a portrait of himself, and here it is.

View attachment 1114417

But the other reason our return visit turned out to be such a good idea was that it was Sunday, and everyone in town was turning up to the service in their very best traditional clothes!

The priest’s singing and the responses of the congregation were amplified to the outside, and made an atmospheric background to our second viewing of the graves.



Revisiting done, we decided on a healthy lunch - deep-fried doughnut bread with sour cream and cheese. We think it’s called a placintă, which sounds deeply worrying, but was actually delicious. The sour cream here is really special and reminds me of the stuff we had in Ukraine - we must try to buy some for Jones. Well, not for Jones, he prefers diesel, but for us when cooking in Jones.

View attachment 1114420

As we headed off through several little villages, the church services there were finishing, and the roads were lined with the congregation heading home in their Sunday best.

View attachment 1114421

We’ve also noticed many big, new, expensive churches - religion must be booming here.

Our first new visit of the day was to the church at Deseşti, famed for its interior paintings. They were quite special! Every possible surface seemed to be covered in designs - in fact, I was nervous that if I stood still for too long I’d be covered head to toe in apostles.

View attachment 1114422

View attachment 1114426

After that we made our way to Babou Maramures camping - a quiet little site run by a Dutch guy and his partner. First order of the day was to get a wash done - a service wash at that, so very convenient! Although less convenient when it came back, and it turned out he’d put the whole lot, laundry bag and all, in the washer. I’d forgotten that there was one of those stick things of Vanish at the bottom of it, so now our clothes are so stain free that they have no colour at all, they’re just transparent. I’ll spare you future shots of Rog in his “clean” shorts bending to tie his shoe laces…

As an antidote to fried dough, I made us a veggie curry - lots of red pepper, tomatoes, onions, garlic and chickpeas. I even tried my hand at a flatbread, and it wasn’t bad at all.

View attachment 1114427

After dinner we had a stroll around the village. One of the visiting village dogs accompanied us - as ever Flynn wasn’t too keen on her when there was a chance of her nicking any dropped food, but totally fine when she was his companion on a walk. The village was lovely, with most houses having large orchards and massive woodpiles ready for the winter.

View attachment 1114428


We started the day with a walk up the river valley and into the thick forests.

View attachment 1114411

It was lovely and cool and Flynn enjoyed some river bathing with a side of stick chewing.

View attachment 1114412

Back at Jones, we broke camp and headed back to the Merry Cemetery. Yesterday’s visit had been a bit fraught and separated, as Rog moved Flynn back to Jones for a while so that we could visit together, and then lost his ticket somehow while doing that, so we had to tag team with mine anyway!

View attachment 1114413

We’d both missed the gravestone of Ioan Stan Pătraş, just outside the main church. He was the wood sculptor who, in 1935, started carving the crosses to mark graves in the old church cemetery. The painted pictures and inscriptions on all the graves illustrate a wealth of traditional occupations: here are a teacher and a policeman - it’s not all women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep. (Although it’s mostly women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep.)

View attachment 1114415

View attachment 1114416

As I mentioned, Pătraş carved and painted his own cross, complete with a portrait of himself, and here it is.

View attachment 1114417

But the other reason our return visit turned out to be such a good idea was that it was Sunday, and everyone in town was turning up to the service in their very best traditional clothes!

The priest’s singing and the responses of the congregation were amplified to the outside, and made an atmospheric background to our second viewing of the graves.



Revisiting done, we decided on a healthy lunch - deep-fried doughnut bread with sour cream and cheese. We think it’s called a placintă, which sounds deeply worrying, but was actually delicious. The sour cream here is really special and reminds me of the stuff we had in Ukraine - we must try to buy some for Jones. Well, not for Jones, he prefers diesel, but for us when cooking in Jones.

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As we headed off through several little villages, the church services there were finishing, and the roads were lined with the congregation heading home in their Sunday best.

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We’ve also noticed many big, new, expensive churches - religion must be booming here.

Our first new visit of the day was to the church at Deseşti, famed for its interior paintings. They were quite special! Every possible surface seemed to be covered in designs - in fact, I was nervous that if I stood still for too long I’d be covered head to toe in apostles.

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After that we made our way to Babou Maramures camping - a quiet little site run by a Dutch guy and his partner. First order of the day was to get a wash done - a service wash at that, so very convenient! Although less convenient when it came back, and it turned out he’d put the whole lot, laundry bag and all, in the washer. I’d forgotten that there was one of those stick things of Vanish at the bottom of it, so now our clothes are so stain free that they have no colour at all, they’re just transparent. I’ll spare you future shots of Rog in his “clean” shorts bending to tie his shoe laces…

As an antidote to fried dough, I made us a veggie curry - lots of red pepper, tomatoes, onions, garlic and chickpeas. I even tried my hand at a flatbread, and it wasn’t bad at all.

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After dinner we had a stroll around the village. One of the visiting village dogs accompanied us - as ever Flynn wasn’t too keen on her when there was a chance of her nicking any dropped food, but totally fine when she was his companion on a walk. The village was lovely, with most houses having large orchards and massive woodpiles ready for the winter.

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We spent 3 days there. Was this one of the dogs that followed you around? He was such a sweetheart. As I mentioned earlier the locals were not very kind to him.



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We spent 3 days there. Was this one of the dogs that followed you around? He was such a sweetheart. As I mentioned earlier the locals were not very kind to him.



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Yes, I think I’ve seen this one around - I’ve not seen anyone be nasty to any of the dogs, although to be honest they are a bit of a pain in the site as they want to cadge food, and Flynn very much doesn’t want them too. The dog who came on the walk with us was a bitch with a hugely fluffy tail, and everyone seemed fine with her.
 
We were handed a huge bag of dog food that had been relayed down all through the summer from visiting guests to feed the strays;all of us were past or present dog owners! We happily continued this practice and duly passed a new bag on to some uk guests. The reason we spent 3 days there was to make enquiries about adopting one of the dogs but it became clear that the procedure would take too long. We ended up adopting this ball of fluff from Calabria. -a region full of abandoned dogs.



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By the way I’d like to publicly say a huge thank you to Raul who gave us a superb recommendation of a dentist in Suceava. The treatment,(and implants),we had were first class!

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