Jane NotRog
LIFE MEMBER
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We were in Eger a few years ago. A pretty town and an interesting wine region.
I remember driving from Slovakia. It was quite an intense experience, driving at night through a dense forest to cross the border as if we were hiding or smugglers
Just a little miscalculation between stops.
Oh Jane - what have you started!!!I have earplugs so I can sleep through Rog’s heavy snoring!
For us it’s more a case of ‘what you’ve never had, you’ll never miss’!What a fabulous thread. We seem to no longer get excited by the idea of expensive fine dining, perhaps we have done too much or just have old digestive systems.
Most impressed you can sleep through heavy rain in your van too.
I wouldn’t want you to think it used to be gourmet meals all the time.For us it’s more a case of ‘what you’ve never had, you’ll never miss’!![]()
Didn’t think that at all!I wouldn’t want you to think it used to be gourmet meals all the time.
We travelled to South Africa with a group of friends ten years ago. Every nice was big posh meals and lots of wine. It wasn’t expensive but we just got bored with eating like that. They were quite offended when we ducked out and went to a local cafe one evening. Ironically we had a fantastic meal.
We are still good friends but we don’t travel with many of them anymore because they still dine out like that every evening.
UNDER THIS HEAVY CROSS LYES MY POOR MOTHER-IN-LAW THREE DAYS AWAY WE LAY HER DESIRE YOU WHO PASS BY HERE TRY TO DECIDE THAT HOME IF SHE CAME AND LOOKED AT ME WITH YOUR MOUTH YES SO I WOULD BEAR IT. THOSE WHO READ HERE DON'T SUFFER FROM YOUR BELOVED MOTHER-IN-LAW FIND A HOUSE TO LIVE IN
We left the camp site quite early as it was a big driving day. It might also be a big camping week so first to a local supermarket: Tesco. Tesco is about as inspiring in Hungary as it is in the UK. Despite that we managed to stock up on booze, a local sausage and bread.
Then a couple of hours drive to the Romanian border. Lots of people (and the lack of a V5C) had made us fairly trepidatious about this crossing but it was very easy. There wasn’t even any culture shock compared to Austria - Hungary. Romania is also immediately easier to deal with - Romanian is a Romance language so you can guess a lot of the words and at least pronounce the ones you can’t guess. We are also back in the world of sane motorway tolls so we can travel on the grown-up roads. Still, no motorways this far north as we drove within a stones throw of the Ukrainian border.
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Our only real stop was Sapinta to see its Merry Cemetery. The Merry Cemetery is a function of the local Dacian culture which holds that as the soul is immortal, death is a moment filled with joy and anticipation for a better life. I suppose the implication is that this here now - you reading my words - is purgatory and the next bit is better. Anyway, their graves are little cartoons and happy stories or even jokes.
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Note admonishing finger
Google translates this as
This was particularly apposite because on the way up here we’d been listening to a podcast about British humour and the fact that the mother-in-law joke was uniquely British but dead.
The graveyard was quite something but the church was no slouch either.
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A very exciting final judgement
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…and a good array of saints
Not quite so noteworthy but a big difference to Hungary is that Romania is definitely a tourist destination. The streets to the cemetery were stuffed with tat vendors.
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Our stop for the night was Camping Păstrăvul a small field at the end of a narrow road. On the way up we got stuck behind a horse and cart. Everyone who’s been to Romania talks about this but I’d dismissed it. We’ve seen five horse drawn carts since then. As I try to decide if I’ll replace my three year old Apple Watch in a few days time, It’s sobering to see such an old technology remaining useful and well used.
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Horses about to pull in to allow us to pass.
In the field we got talking to a solo Belgian, some Czech bikers and a Swiss couple in a 4x4. We’d seen two of these groups on the road over here. I get the feeling that Northern Romania is like the NC500 and we’ll be meeting the same people over the next few weeks.
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Biker tents and Swiss roof tent.
Across the road from Restaurant Păstrăvul which serves its own trout in three ways: fried in polenta, fried near polenta and fried with polenta a small distance away. I had “in” jane had “a small distance away”. They were both great. The waiter spoke excellent English and it turned out he’d been an electrician in Romford before Brexit.
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Local trout in and near polenta.
We're liking the off- roading and Flynn photos. We're currently looking for our next dog. We do like Spinoni's and long haired German pointers (lhgp). We stopped a chap today in Intra to ask if his dog was a Spinoni He said no it was a lhgp. Last week we'd stopped a guy and asked if was a lhgp. That time it was a Spinoni..
If you keep north, skimming the Ukraine border, you will miss Bistrita, Colibita, but you can do that on the way back.
But is nice to continue the way you started, carry on to Borsa, there is a nice national park, Prislop mountains. On from there to Vatra Dornei, few bits to see there. And on to Cimpulung Moldovenesc. Here there is Trans Rarau, a must if you pass by, This area is the highest concentration of old medieval Monasteries and very interested places. We are not far from Putna, a very old monastery with a very interesting legend.
Have you tried sheep cheese yet? It goes nice with hot mamaliga (polenta), and a tripe soup with garlic and cream. View attachment 1114094
You are not that far now.
Ciorba de burtaWhat is the tripe soup called? My kind of food.
Looks like Flynn approves of the new van.
And every time someone passes them all you hear is * Look at that dog's eyebrows!* If our circumstances were different we would have another Wirehaired pointer in a flash, they are great companions and very energetic but take twice as long as a Lab to train!Flynn’s always being confused with a spinone. They’re heavier set though, droolier, and not as energetic - I’d go for a German Wirehaired Pointer every time. Don’t know much about the long-haired ones.
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His new seat!
Nobody told us you could train them. I need to have a word with Flynn, he’s been keeping this fact very quiet.we would have another Wirehaired pointer in a flash, they are great companions and very energetic but take twice as long as a Lab to train
He didn’t for a while. New == bad. But he seems very happy now. He just needed to get used to the fact that Jones goes to interesting places full of chickens as much as Denby did.Looks like Flynn approves of the new van.![]()
We started the day with a walk up the river valley and into the thick forests.
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It was lovely and cool and Flynn enjoyed some river bathing with a side of stick chewing.
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Back at Jones, we broke camp and headed back to the Merry Cemetery. Yesterday’s visit had been a bit fraught and separated, as Rog moved Flynn back to Jones for a while so that we could visit together, and then lost his ticket somehow while doing that, so we had to tag team with mine anyway!
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We’d both missed the gravestone of Ioan Stan Pătraş, just outside the main church. He was the wood sculptor who, in 1935, started carving the crosses to mark graves in the old church cemetery. The painted pictures and inscriptions on all the graves illustrate a wealth of traditional occupations: here are a teacher and a policeman - it’s not all women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep. (Although it’s mostly women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep.)
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As I mentioned, Pătraş carved and painted his own cross, complete with a portrait of himself, and here it is.
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But the other reason our return visit turned out to be such a good idea was that it was Sunday, and everyone in town was turning up to the service in their very best traditional clothes!
The priest’s singing and the responses of the congregation were amplified to the outside, and made an atmospheric background to our second viewing of the graves.
Revisiting done, we decided on a healthy lunch - deep-fried doughnut bread with sour cream and cheese. We think it’s called a placintă, which sounds deeply worrying, but was actually delicious. The sour cream here is really special and reminds me of the stuff we had in Ukraine - we must try to buy some for Jones. Well, not for Jones, he prefers diesel, but for us when cooking in Jones.
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As we headed off through several little villages, the church services there were finishing, and the roads were lined with the congregation heading home in their Sunday best.
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We’ve also noticed many big, new, expensive churches - religion must be booming here.
Our first new visit of the day was to the church at Deseşti, famed for its interior paintings. They were quite special! Every possible surface seemed to be covered in designs - in fact, I was nervous that if I stood still for too long I’d be covered head to toe in apostles.
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After that we made our way to Babou Maramures camping - a quiet little site run by a Dutch guy and his partner. First order of the day was to get a wash done - a service wash at that, so very convenient! Although less convenient when it came back, and it turned out he’d put the whole lot, laundry bag and all, in the washer. I’d forgotten that there was one of those stick things of Vanish at the bottom of it, so now our clothes are so stain free that they have no colour at all, they’re just transparent. I’ll spare you future shots of Rog in his “clean” shorts bending to tie his shoe laces…
As an antidote to fried dough, I made us a veggie curry - lots of red pepper, tomatoes, onions, garlic and chickpeas. I even tried my hand at a flatbread, and it wasn’t bad at all.
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After dinner we had a stroll around the village. One of the visiting village dogs accompanied us - as ever Flynn wasn’t too keen on her when there was a chance of her nicking any dropped food, but totally fine when she was his companion on a walk. The village was lovely, with most houses having large orchards and massive woodpiles ready for the winter.
View attachment 1114428
We started the day with a walk up the river valley and into the thick forests.
View attachment 1114411
It was lovely and cool and Flynn enjoyed some river bathing with a side of stick chewing.
View attachment 1114412
Back at Jones, we broke camp and headed back to the Merry Cemetery. Yesterday’s visit had been a bit fraught and separated, as Rog moved Flynn back to Jones for a while so that we could visit together, and then lost his ticket somehow while doing that, so we had to tag team with mine anyway!
View attachment 1114413
We’d both missed the gravestone of Ioan Stan Pătraş, just outside the main church. He was the wood sculptor who, in 1935, started carving the crosses to mark graves in the old church cemetery. The painted pictures and inscriptions on all the graves illustrate a wealth of traditional occupations: here are a teacher and a policeman - it’s not all women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep. (Although it’s mostly women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep.)
View attachment 1114415
View attachment 1114416
As I mentioned, Pătraş carved and painted his own cross, complete with a portrait of himself, and here it is.
View attachment 1114417
But the other reason our return visit turned out to be such a good idea was that it was Sunday, and everyone in town was turning up to the service in their very best traditional clothes!
The priest’s singing and the responses of the congregation were amplified to the outside, and made an atmospheric background to our second viewing of the graves.
Revisiting done, we decided on a healthy lunch - deep-fried doughnut bread with sour cream and cheese. We think it’s called a placintă, which sounds deeply worrying, but was actually delicious. The sour cream here is really special and reminds me of the stuff we had in Ukraine - we must try to buy some for Jones. Well, not for Jones, he prefers diesel, but for us when cooking in Jones.
View attachment 1114420
As we headed off through several little villages, the church services there were finishing, and the roads were lined with the congregation heading home in their Sunday best.
View attachment 1114421
We’ve also noticed many big, new, expensive churches - religion must be booming here.
Our first new visit of the day was to the church at Deseşti, famed for its interior paintings. They were quite special! Every possible surface seemed to be covered in designs - in fact, I was nervous that if I stood still for too long I’d be covered head to toe in apostles.
View attachment 1114422
View attachment 1114426
After that we made our way to Babou Maramures camping - a quiet little site run by a Dutch guy and his partner. First order of the day was to get a wash done - a service wash at that, so very convenient! Although less convenient when it came back, and it turned out he’d put the whole lot, laundry bag and all, in the washer. I’d forgotten that there was one of those stick things of Vanish at the bottom of it, so now our clothes are so stain free that they have no colour at all, they’re just transparent. I’ll spare you future shots of Rog in his “clean” shorts bending to tie his shoe laces…
As an antidote to fried dough, I made us a veggie curry - lots of red pepper, tomatoes, onions, garlic and chickpeas. I even tried my hand at a flatbread, and it wasn’t bad at all.
View attachment 1114427
After dinner we had a stroll around the village. One of the visiting village dogs accompanied us - as ever Flynn wasn’t too keen on her when there was a chance of her nicking any dropped food, but totally fine when she was his companion on a walk. The village was lovely, with most houses having large orchards and massive woodpiles ready for the winter.
View attachment 1114428
We started the day with a walk up the river valley and into the thick forests.
View attachment 1114411
It was lovely and cool and Flynn enjoyed some river bathing with a side of stick chewing.
View attachment 1114412
Back at Jones, we broke camp and headed back to the Merry Cemetery. Yesterday’s visit had been a bit fraught and separated, as Rog moved Flynn back to Jones for a while so that we could visit together, and then lost his ticket somehow while doing that, so we had to tag team with mine anyway!
View attachment 1114413
We’d both missed the gravestone of Ioan Stan Pătraş, just outside the main church. He was the wood sculptor who, in 1935, started carving the crosses to mark graves in the old church cemetery. The painted pictures and inscriptions on all the graves illustrate a wealth of traditional occupations: here are a teacher and a policeman - it’s not all women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep. (Although it’s mostly women cooking and weaving and men herding sheep.)
View attachment 1114415
View attachment 1114416
As I mentioned, Pătraş carved and painted his own cross, complete with a portrait of himself, and here it is.
View attachment 1114417
But the other reason our return visit turned out to be such a good idea was that it was Sunday, and everyone in town was turning up to the service in their very best traditional clothes!
The priest’s singing and the responses of the congregation were amplified to the outside, and made an atmospheric background to our second viewing of the graves.
Revisiting done, we decided on a healthy lunch - deep-fried doughnut bread with sour cream and cheese. We think it’s called a placintă, which sounds deeply worrying, but was actually delicious. The sour cream here is really special and reminds me of the stuff we had in Ukraine - we must try to buy some for Jones. Well, not for Jones, he prefers diesel, but for us when cooking in Jones.
View attachment 1114420
As we headed off through several little villages, the church services there were finishing, and the roads were lined with the congregation heading home in their Sunday best.
View attachment 1114421
We’ve also noticed many big, new, expensive churches - religion must be booming here.
Our first new visit of the day was to the church at Deseşti, famed for its interior paintings. They were quite special! Every possible surface seemed to be covered in designs - in fact, I was nervous that if I stood still for too long I’d be covered head to toe in apostles.
View attachment 1114422
View attachment 1114426
After that we made our way to Babou Maramures camping - a quiet little site run by a Dutch guy and his partner. First order of the day was to get a wash done - a service wash at that, so very convenient! Although less convenient when it came back, and it turned out he’d put the whole lot, laundry bag and all, in the washer. I’d forgotten that there was one of those stick things of Vanish at the bottom of it, so now our clothes are so stain free that they have no colour at all, they’re just transparent. I’ll spare you future shots of Rog in his “clean” shorts bending to tie his shoe laces…
As an antidote to fried dough, I made us a veggie curry - lots of red pepper, tomatoes, onions, garlic and chickpeas. I even tried my hand at a flatbread, and it wasn’t bad at all.
View attachment 1114427
After dinner we had a stroll around the village. One of the visiting village dogs accompanied us - as ever Flynn wasn’t too keen on her when there was a chance of her nicking any dropped food, but totally fine when she was his companion on a walk. The village was lovely, with most houses having large orchards and massive woodpiles ready for the winter.
View attachment 1114428
Yes, I think I’ve seen this one around - I’ve not seen anyone be nasty to any of the dogs, although to be honest they are a bit of a pain in the site as they want to cadge food, and Flynn very much doesn’t want them too. The dog who came on the walk with us was a bitch with a hugely fluffy tail, and everyone seemed fine with her.We spent 3 days there. Was this one of the dogs that followed you around? He was such a sweetheart. As I mentioned earlier the locals were not very kind to him.
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