Is this a) legal and b) safe?

Your bathroom seems to be exactly the same as mine ( Swift Royals 610 1997). I have the same problem, this is our first van without a heated bathroom.
Is your heater under the wardrobe next to the bathroom? Mine is and the heat goes into the wardrobe where it heats and dries damp clothes very well.
I am thinking of either fitting a blower unit on my Carver 3600STC heater and ducting air into the bathroom or fitting a vent from the wardrobe into the bathroom so the heat can be shared
I wouldn't consider a heated towel rail, not enough room and we never use mains hook ups. Plus, I think a towel rail will take a long time to heat the bathroom up
 
Allanm said:
Plus, I think a towel rail will take a long time to heat the bathroom up
Click to expand...

Electric ones won't heat a room up at all, that's not what they're for.

All they do is dry towels.

Social housing electric heating standard spec for bathrooms:

1 electric towel rail for drying towels
1 fan heater, Dimplex FX20 or similar to provide space heating
 
Congratulations on your novel idea - in recognition of which I have nominated you for a Darwin award just in case you go ahead with it.
 
Electrics apart the position of the heater would mean it would stick out and would probably hurt your back or be uncomfortable to sit on the loo-more so when its hot

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Just have a quick shower!
 
There is a vent visible between the toilet and the sink. Could this be for blown air heating? In my experience it is possible for the trunking to become detatched. Is it worth checking?

Wyn
 
Mine works a treat...........

057.JPG


Yes I know it is Hot water fed! But the towels are hot and so is the room.
 
Easiest solution: plug in fan heater, open shower room door, put fan heater in room & switch heater on, close door as much as poss, get naked, open door, remove heater & leave on in hallway', go in & close door, shower & dry yourself, step out into warm hallway.
 
WynandJean said:
There is a vent visible between the toilet and the sink. Could this be for blown air heating? In my experience it is possible for the trunking to become detatched. Is it worth checking?

Wyn
Click to expand...
I believe that's a vent in the outside wall.
 
You could buy an American motorhome. Turn the heating on and everywhere is toasty or too hot in under a minute. Which is good, because then you can turn it off and hear yourself think again '\
 
Popeye said:
No it is not, it is the shower too, you can see it in the mirror.
Click to expand...
You appear to have a separate cubical ... I was meaning in the sense that it is near the toilet and not where the water would get into contact from the shower, it doesn't however mean I'd put an electric one where your alde one is though.
 
Popeye said:
Mine works a treat...........

View attachment 142074

Yes I know it is Hot water fed! But the towels are hot and so is the room.
Click to expand...

That looks pretty similar to ours. (y)

A wet central heating one is a completely different animal to an electric one.

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Or you could install a 12v rail like which does away with the mains electrical problem, but will knock hell out of your leisure battery unless you manage it carefully.
 
motorhome electrics run roughshod over domestic regs how many of us have a socket closer than one meter from the kitchen sink mine are less than 500mm
 
mitzimad said:
motorhome electrics run roughshod over domestic regs how many of us have a socket closer than one meter from the kitchen sink mine are less than 500mm
Click to expand...

That's a popular fallacy. There's nothing whatsoever is BS7671 that states a minimum distance for a socket from a kitchen sink.
 
NickNic said:
That's a popular fallacy. There's nothing whatsoever is BS7671 that states a minimum distance for a socket from a kitchen sink.
Click to expand...


"SOCKET OTLETS NEAR SINKS

Regulation Referred to 512.2.1 BS 7671

BS 7671 does NOT specify a minimum distance between a sink and a socket-outlet.
However, Reguation 512.2.1 does require due account to be taken of external influences"

They go on to say that sockets, " ideally should be installed 1000mm away from the sink. In many instances this is impractical and where this is the case 300mm is a minimum acceptable distance.

So, according to that the socket above the sink is permitted if the installer can argue a case for not being in breach of 512.

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Last edited:
Gorse Hill said:
"SOCKET OTLETS NEAR SINKS

Regulation Referred to 512.2.1 BS 7671

BS 7671 does NOT specify a minimum distance between a sink and a socket-outlet.
However, Reguation 512.2.1 does require due account to be taken of external influences"

They go on to say that sockets, " ideally should be installed 1000mm away from the sink. In many instances this is impractical and where this is the case 300mm is a minimum cceptable distance.

So, according to that the socket above the sink is permitted if the installer can argue a case for not being in breach of 512.
Click to expand...


In many kitchens 1000mm is simply not possible. I've seen a few where 300mm isn't possible either.

In those cases there is no breach of 512.

If you wanted to use the regs for a motorhome installation (yes I know they don't apply) then the same would apply - it's not usually possible to get a distance of 1000mm or even 300mm so there is no breach.
 
Gorse Hill said:
"SOCKET OTLETS NEAR SINKS

Regulation Referred to 512.2.1 BS 7671

BS 7671 does NOT specify a minimum distance between a sink and a socket-outlet.
However, Reguation 512.2.1 does require due account to be taken of external influences"

They go on to say that sockets, " ideally should be installed 1000mm away from the sink. In many instances this is impractical and where this is the case 300mm is a minimum cceptable distance.

So, according to that the socket above the sink is permitted if the installer can argue a case for not being in breach of 512.
Click to expand...
Don't believe that ... you've just found that on a fake foreign site ... they can't spell OUTLET ....:LOL:;)
 
NickNic said:
In many kitchens 1000mm is simply not possible. I've seen a few where 300mm isn't possible either.

In those cases there is no breach of 512.

If you wanted to use the regs for a motorhome installation (yes I know they don't apply) then the same would apply - it's not usually possible to get a distance of 1000mm or even 300mm so there is no breach.
Click to expand...
I think the regs are applicable to all electrical installations in the U.K.
 
Minxy Girl said:
Don't believe that ... you've just found that on a fake foreign site ... they can't spell OUTLET ....:LOL:;)
Click to expand...
True but still applicable (y) I was aware the regs didn't specify distance in regards to the sockets however IP rating is an issue but couldn't be arsed to get my regs book out to find exact Reg that why
 
I think you are all getting carried away a bit with this, first they are made for bathrooms, second where he is thinking of putting it, it just isn't going to get wet, the biggest problem I can see is he would have to be on hookup all the time so most of the time it wouldn't be doing anything anyway.
Far better leave the door open and use the gas heater.

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chaser said:
I think you are all getting carried away a bit with this, first they are made for bathrooms, second where he is thinking of putting it, it just isn't going to get wet, the biggest problem I can see is he would have to be on hookup all the time so most of the time it wouldn't be doing anything anyway.
Far better leave the door open and use the gas heater.
Click to expand...

There are towel rail elements as little as 150w so could be run from an inverter if economically used.
 
This thread serves to remind me that one of the reasons that we bought our elderly MH is the gas powered warm-air outlet at lower shin height in the shower.

Perhaps this should be added to the ought-to-have list of each prospective MH owner.
 
Surprised that blown air vent not included in bathroom in all mhomes, our RVs and since euro boxes have as standard, I like a cosy sit and read when on the throne.
 
Why not get all the various bits you need from cktanks and splice in a duct from an existing heat source thro the wall. All you would need to do is cut an existing heating "pipe" splice in a Tpiece bit on heater "pipe" drill a hole using an hole saw and insert duct. As said before ALL the bits you need are available from CKTanks
 
Larrynwin said:
Surprised that blown air vent not included in bathroom in all mhomes, our RVs and since euro boxes have as standard, I like a cosy sit and read when on the throne.
Click to expand...
... if he had blown air it might have been but he doesn't have blown air ...

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