In search of the Vikings, Edvard Munch and the Midnight Sun.

I don’t know if anyone else where does this. After spending time last night planning where to go next and looking at Denmark ferries, we woke this morning and decided to go somewhere else.

We are in Fredrikstad south of Oslo. The camper stop we are on includes free washing making it a bargain, so we got some washing done and as it is clear blue skies hung it out to dry. Today is the first day when the sun has been out all day. It is still a chilly wind, but nonetheless very welcome.

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The camper stop can be found at https://park4night.com/en/place/487671

The old town is a 15 minute bike ride along cycle paths and the side of the fjord. The fjord is stunning and in parts lined with restaurants, fully rigged large sailing boats and some fabulous statues.

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The journey includes a ferry to cross over the fjord, which amazingly is free.

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As you cross you get a great view of the new road bridge, even though the ferry goes very fast, veering sideways to conteract the current.

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The old part of Fredrikstad is a citadel built in the Dutch style in the C17th after repeated attacks by the Swedish. Fredrik the king granted permission to move the whole town to its current position on an island and it is pretty much unchanged for the last 200-300 years.

You can pass through various gateways and walk the walls which are still lined with cannons.

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The approach from the opposite side of the water used to be across the drawbridge which still works. Until the 1900s it was raised every evening, requiring the muscles of thirty soldiers.

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The old town itself is all low level wooden houses and squares. It looks almost unreal, like a too neat film set, but it is beautiful.

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We had been told to bring quite a bit of cash for campsites with us but we haven’t really needed it. So, we decided to spend it at a restaurant called Slippen that had been recommended to us. The meal was pricey, but fabulous. Easily the best food we have had this holiday, or indeed for a while.

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That looks delicious!
 
We moved on to Gothenburg today. Gothenburg has a superb tram system which we were able to use after some confusion about how to get tickets. There is an app, but the feeling was it is often too difficult for foreigners to use. Instead you pop into a shop near a tram stop and buy a ticket there. Even that wasn’t straight forward with multiple options but eventually we mastered it.

This is Sweden’s second city and it is suitably grand. We enjoy strolling round new cities and so followed the route suggested by the tourist office. Very quickly we were caught up in a raucous Pride march with a great atmosphere. Lots of music and dancing.

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Many of the buildings are turn of the century or Belle Epoch and have been restored well. It makes for a grand impression in the wide avenues and along the canals or river.

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We found a covered market containing quality food stalls and eateries. Unfortunately it closed at 5pm (it must be a Scandinavian thing) otherwise we would have eaten there this evening.

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A wander around the botanical gardens revealed buildings we were told were based upon the greenhouses at Kew and the former Crystal Palace. Despite this they were described as one of the best preserved examples of Victorian greenhouses. They have certainly faired better than the Crystal Palace, but Kew was still there when I last went to the National Archives.

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The port where you can catch a ferry to Fredrikshaven in Denmark was choc-a-bloc with boats, including a large four masted liner built in 1907 and now a hotel. Next to them is a building that looks remarkably like a ferry. We think it is something to do with Stena Line who have their headquarters in Gothenburg.

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The weather today has been very strange. We have had warm sun and cold rain showers. As we wandered around the skies got ever darker until a sustained downpour began. We stopped for a drink, but after half an hour there was no sign of it easing so we caught a tram back to the van. Well that is after going into a couple of shops until we found one that sold tickets. We didn't get tp see all pf Gothenburg but what we saw we liked.

By the time we got back we were very wet. Even now two hours later it is somehow managing to be both heavy rain and sun. A Swedish lady assured us this is what a Swedish Summer looks like! After tomorrow the outlook seems much better, we have missed warm sun and keep forgetting it is summer.
 
We looked at Flam. It was very busy with big cruise ships so we gave it a miss.
IMO Flam railway journey is not all that it's cracked up to be, some glimpses of nice scenery between the 20 tunnels, but no nicer than you'll have already seen.

Flam was really quiet today. No cruise ships. ✅

Found an excellent free park up outside the Flam church just outside town.
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I actually really enjoyed the train trip up. The views were awesome and I found being relaxed on a train made them more enjoyable than when driving.

How was the cycle back down... good fun no doubt?

The ride down was just out of this world! Loved it. It was quite difficult at the top - very gravelly, very steep and lots of tight hairpins. My wife went very steadily - I found it fun once it got the hang of it. Some very fast sections further down and some really beautiful bits too.

Overall, one of our best days so far I reckon.

Flam itself is a just a tourist hub so didn't do much there..... except the free museum about the Railway - really interesting and better than many paid ones!

Oh , and a bonus - hardly any rain. Quite warm at times too!!
 
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Flam was really quiet today. No cruise ships. ✅

Found an excellent free park up outside the Flam church just outside town.


I actually really enjoyed the train trip up. The views were awesome and I found being relaxed on a train made them more enjoyable than when driving.

The ride down was just out of this world! Loved it. One of our best days so far I reckon.

Flam itself is a just a tourist hub so didn't do much there..... except the free museum about the Railway - really interesting and better than many paid ones!

Oh , and a bonus - hardly any rain. Quite warm at times too!!
I don’t want to hear about ‘hardly any rain’ 😂

The ride sounds awesome.
 
Thanks for posting this thread, it’s been great information for our trip in a couple of weeks.

What parking did you use in Gothenburg. We are arriving there on the ferry from Kiel
 
We moved on to Gothenburg today. Gothenburg has a superb tram system which we were able to use after some confusion about how to get tickets. There is an app, but the feeling was it is often too difficult for foreigners to use. Instead you pop into a shop near a tram stop and buy a ticket there. Even that wasn’t straight forward with multiple options but eventually we mastered it.

This is Sweden’s second city and it is suitably grand. We enjoy strolling round new cities and so followed the route suggested by the tourist office. Very quickly we were caught up in a raucous Pride march with a great atmosphere. Lots of music and dancing.

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Many of the buildings are turn of the century or Belle Epoch and have been restored well. It makes for a grand impression in the wide avenues and along the canals or river.

View attachment 1221962View attachment 1221963View attachment 1221964View attachment 1221965

We found a covered market containing quality food stalls and eateries. Unfortunately it closed at 5pm (it must be a Scandinavian thing) otherwise we would have eaten there this evening.

View attachment 1221966

A wander around the botanical gardens revealed buildings we were told were based upon the greenhouses at Kew and the former Crystal Palace. Despite this they were described as one of the best preserved examples of Victorian greenhouses. They have certainly faired better than the Crystal Palace, but Kew was still there when I last went to the National Archives.

View attachment 1221967View attachment 1221968View attachment 1221969

The port where you can catch a ferry to Fredrikshaven in Denmark was choc-a-bloc with boats, including a large four masted liner built in 1907 and now a hotel. Next to them is a building that looks remarkably like a ferry. We think it is something to do with Stena Line who have their headquarters in Gothenburg.

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The weather today has been very strange. We have had warm sun and cold rain showers. As we wandered around the skies got ever darker until a sustained downpour began. We stopped for a drink, but after half an hour there was no sign of it easing so we caught a tram back to the van. Well that is after going into a couple of shops until we found one that sold tickets. We didn't get tp see all pf Gothenburg but what we saw we liked.

By the time we got back we were very wet. Even now two hours later it is somehow managing to be both heavy rain and sun. A Swedish lady assured us this is what a Swedish Summer looks like! After tomorrow the outlook seems much better, we have missed warm sun and keep forgetting it is summer.


We did our first Swedish O Ringen orienteering event at Gothenburg and, as is normal when competing, we didn't even see the city.
 
Gothenburg is a city I'd love to visit. Plan is also do Sweden but we may need more than three weeks to reach it, enjoy it and be back (the cons of being South).
 
Thanks for posting this thread, it’s been great information for our trip in a couple of weeks.

What parking did you use in Gothenburg. We are arriving there on the ferry from Kiel
We went to the Lysbergsbyn camp site which was quite expensive. But the options seemed limited and it was an easy tram ride in.
 
Gothenburg is a city I'd love to visit. Plan is also do Sweden but we may need more than three weeks to reach it, enjoy it and be back (the cons of being South).
Yes it’s a long way from you. Our feeling would be to say so Norway first if time becomes limited, Sweden is less dramatic but still interesting.
 
Yes it’s a long way from you. Our feeling would be to say so Norway first if time becomes limited, Sweden is less dramatic but still interesting.
Norway appeals more to me, but it’s a long way to go if the weather doesn’t play ball! 💨☔️⛈️🌤️🌈
 
Norway appeals more to me, but it’s a long way to go if the weather doesn’t play ball! 💨☔️⛈️🌤️🌈

I feel the same, the scenery is definitely a big draw and seems like an adventure but I don’t seem to be able to do cold anymore, and I don’t particularly like to go anywhere in peak season when it may be warmer, plus being in a wheelchair I do wonder if I’ll be able to do it justice with not being able to get to the really interesting places 🤔…. It still stays on my list though but perhaps sliding down a bit…..😎
 
Thanks for posting this thread, it’s been great information for our trip in a couple of weeks.

What parking did you use in Gothenburg. We are arriving there on the ferry from Kiel
You might be just right for Kiele Woche, sailing festival 20 - 28 June.
 
Yup, I reckon 7000+ miles from Perth.
We live near Aberdeen and are on our way back from Norway. Although we didn’t go further north than just north of Alesund we are pretty near Amsterdam now on the way home for the ferry to Newcastle and reckon we won’t be far off 5000 miles by the time we’re home. I know folk go further north in Norway but it means driving all the time rather than stopping to spend time in good places - just to tick a box saying I’ve been to the far north!
 
I feel the same, the scenery is definitely a big draw and seems like an adventure but I don’t seem to be able to do cold anymore, and I don’t particularly like to go anywhere in peak season when it may be warmer, plus being in a wheelchair I do wonder if I’ll be able to do it justice with not being able to get to the really interesting places 🤔…. It still stays on my list though but perhaps sliding down a bit…..😎
I wouldn’t rule it out on the wheelchair, access seems pretty good and a lot of wide bike lanes. Of course I probably don’t look as carefully as you do.
 
We decided to trust the repair to the fuel pipe and push on today. The roads in Sweden are much faster, although in our limited experience the views aren't comparable to Norway. We saw a British vehicle today, the first for two weeks. Both parties were quite excited with a good deal of exuberant and very un-British waving.

We have always wanted to cross The Bridge since watching the TV series and so were quite excited when we reached it after only a couple of hours. It is expensive, although cheaper than a ferry. If you pre-book you get 10% discount which is worth having as a motorhome between 6-10m it was still £107. Of course it did start to rain.

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We are now at a camperstop in Copenhagen (https://park4night.com/en/place/233775).

The beauty of this site is its inner city location. We decided to cycle into the city, along with the rest of Copenhagen. It was so busy in a wacky races kind of way, it reminded us of Hanoi in Vietnam. Our route went through a bohemian group of islands collectively known as Christiana, where they claimed independence in 1971. It still proclaims itself a 'free city' and coming from near Stroud in Gloucestershire (or The Republic of Stroud as it is known locally) we felt right at home.

From there, we cycled into the modern part of the city over a specially constructed bridge that is like a dual carriageway with pedestrians one side and bikes on the other carriageway. The views into the old town were dazzling.

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We only covered about half of the town just getting our bearings, but I have to say Copenhagen has already won our hearts. We began in the area known as Nyhavn, with painted houses above bars and restaurants.

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Our next stop was the Kings Garden which contains the Rosenburg Castle. A C17th palace still surrounded by a moat. The monarchy rarely use it now and it is open to the public.

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We were somewhat distracted because the park was overrun with thousands of people walking along looking at their phones, sometimes two phones. Most were dressed in black and had wires to other devices trailing along. Nearly all were adults and quite a few had various Pokemon hats on. It turned out to be some sort of World Pokemon festival and they were searching the park for rare Pokemon whatnots that were virtual and not really there. We found the whole thing surreal and wanted to stop them and say look at this fabulous park and that awesome palace. Oh and watch where you are going.

Away from the throng we cycled through the Kastellet, a fortified area used by the Danish military. We asked the nice man with a gun if it was okay to cycle through the cobble stoned barracks and he said it was fine. Carrying on past the Kastellet we happened upon The Little Mermaid. Apparently the locals hate the statue - donated by the brewing baron Carlsberg - and it has suffered all sorts of indignities. It has lost an arm, been beheaded twice and had all sorts thrown over it. Usually as some form of demonstration.

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We headed back to an outdoor food market, along the ultra modern waterfront, with the opera house (better than Oslo's) and flats that look like Nineveh

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We had a great meal washed down with the local cloudy IPA. As you may have gathered we really like Copenhagen, it is stylish, interesting and has a buzzing atmosphere. An unexpected highlight of the trip and we shall explore some more tomorrow.
 
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We found similar in the Netherlands. We had some fabulous weather as we travelled through, and the Dutch seem to react to that in much the same was as we British - the sun doesn’t shine all the time, let’s make hay! I suspect you’d like Amsterdam, and there’s a good campsite to the north with an underground station close by, taking you right into town.

I suspect the same is true of Oslo, if you get the right weather. A long time ago we spotted a heatwave in Tromsø and got a flight out for a long weekend. People were just sitting out in the sun all night, it was fantastic. Even I didn’t want to go to bed, and I’m an early to rise person.
 
We found similar in the Netherlands. We had some fabulous weather as we travelled through, and the Dutch seem to react to that in much the same was as we British - the sun doesn’t shine all the time, let’s make hay! I suspect you’d like Amsterdam, and there’s a good campsite to the north with an underground station close by, taking you right into town.

I suspect the same is true of Oslo, if you get the right weather. A long time ago we spotted a heatwave in Tromsø and got a flight out for a long weekend. People were just sitting out in the sun all night, it was fantastic. Even I didn’t want to go to bed, and I’m an early to rise person.
We drove through the Netherlands in a rush to get to Norway, but both thought it deserves further exploration, especially as it is so near comparatively.

The main archive for Amnesty International is in Amsterdam and I was very fortunate to spend quite a bit of time there on a number of occasions for my research. It’s a great city.
 
As you may have gathered we really like Copenhagen, it is stylish, interesting and has a buzzing atmosphere. An unexpected highlight of the trip and we shall explore some more tomorrow.

We've wanted to visit Copenhagen for many years so it's definitely on our route home later in July. This has wetted my appetite!!
 

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