In search of the Vikings, Edvard Munch and the Midnight Sun.

[Wanders from Glos]

I have to be honest … we get spoilt in the highlands with stunning views. I’m no longer sure I’d travel all the way up to Norway with unpredictable weather. What you have shown us of Denmark with lovely villages and marinas appeals more and there is less commitment to super long distances …

I’d have to say the views are grander and on a nuggets scale than the highlands. Nonetheless, I think you are right. We are glad we went to Norway and don’t regret it. I wouldn’t want to put you off many love it.

Eventually we’ll do a summary of our thoughts.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We are now in Germany. Google and a host of other satnavs recommend a route through Hamburg, but a few weeks ago some friends got badly delayed in the road works there and we have heard similar horror stories elsewhere. So we opted for the Gluckstadt to Wischhafen ferry. Unfortunately many others had the same idea so we queued for the best part of two hours, but the view was quite good and we were able to eat our lunch. I was quite happy birdwatching, the Elbe estuary had a good range of waders and waterfowl.

The journey is roughly 20-30 minutes but the ferry is quite small and very shallow to cope with the tide. We were parked next to a group of Vincent motor cyclists. Watching them trying to start the bikes when we docked took me right back to my motorcycling days.

Becuase were delayed for so long we decided to find a park up and enjoy the sun. We ended up in someone's back garden with about five others. It is a great setting behind the River Elbe dyke. We have a stream behind where we are parked containing frogs and reed warblers. It is run by a jolly German who doesn't speak any English other than "Harry Kane". I think it is €17.50 with electric, toilet and shower although we haven't bothered with the electric. You can find it here https://park4night.com/en/place/506474

After a cup of tea we walked along the top of the dyke and then down to the banks of the Elbe. Unexpectedly, the river is lined with a long sandy beach.

After a paddle we walked along to a bar and decided we would also have a hearty German meal with our beer, watching the occasional container ship sail by.

Tomorrow we should make it to the Netherlands.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I’d have to say the views are grander and on a nuggets scale than the highlands. Nonetheless, I think you are right. We are glad we went to Norway and don’t regret it. I wouldn’t want to put you off many love it.

Eventually we’ll do a summary of our thoughts.

Grianan I don't know why that said nuggets. A combination of spellcheck and not proof reading. Anyway it should say "on a larger scale".

 

[Grianan]

I’ve had my fair share of autocorrect whoppers! If we could get this weather a Baltic tour looks like a good option …

 

[VXman]

I have to be honest … we get spoilt in the highlands with stunning views. I’m no longer sure I’d travel all the way up to Norway with unpredictable weather. What you have shown us of Denmark with lovely villages and marinas appeals more and there is less commitment to super long distances …

Scotland is more accessible but I'd say Norway is more spectacular. Highlands on steroids!

 

[Lenny HB]

Deepest condolences having to eat Schnitzel.

We have stayed in a few back gardens in East Germany.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We have stayed in a few back gardens in East Germany.

Was that at the polite request of the Stasi?

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We had a slightly later start this morning. Partly due to Claire wanting a swim in the River Elbe, but more because the ongoing problem with the fridge deteriorated. Up to now it would sometimes not swap onto battery when the engine started and occasionally the display froze. But in the middle of the night it stopped working on gas. I managed to get it going again by lighting the hob in case an air lock needed flushing through. But two hours later it stopped working again. The display panel now wouldn't even turn off unless I turned off all power to the van. We crept out and plugged in the EHU which fortunately does work. It's frustrating though because in this heat we feel we will have to go to sites than offer hook up.

It's booked in to have the fridge and broken tap looked at, and sounds like it will need a new board. The van is also booked in with our local garage that specialises in vans to have the fuel pipe looked at and the broken tow eye removed. Such is the adventure of motorhome touring.

Anyway, thanks to tonybvi for his tip about the small town of Bourtange, just over the border in the Netherlands. The only option to stay is a camp site, but it is inexpensive at €19.80 with EHU.

Bourtange is a citadel town built in the C16th by one of the Williams of Orange in a star shape with a complex layer of moats. It remained a military garrison until the mid C19th when it became a town but slowly fell into disrepair. In the 1960s a project to rebuild and preserve was launched and the results are fabulous. It is truly beautiful.

It is easy to walk the walls and cross the series of bridges. On one of which there is a working windmill.

Inside the town is a small square with a nice bar. Two beers cost less here than one in Norway.

We are probably going to head to the coast tomorrow to enjoy the sun and do a spot of bird watching.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We have spent the last two days relaxing at yet another marina in Lauwersoog, Netherlands. There are many pleasure sailing boats but it is a working fishing port at the very top of the Netherlands on the North Sea. Like the UK it has been very hot, in the low 30s today so we have been relaxing.

Yesterday evening we chatted to a very tall Norwegian who was captain of a replica Viking ship. He has been sailing these ships for 30 years and has sailed to places like Cuba and Newfoundland from Norway. Also up the Thames and Seine. We had a look at his boat which was built using only traditional materials and techniques, although it does have radar. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures!

Lauwersmeer National Park was created in 1969 when a dyke was built to enclose the Lauwersmeer Sea. Incidentally it is possible to drive across the dyke. Gradually the resulting wetlands become fresh water and a major stop over for migratory birds.

Because it is so flat cycling very easy and rather cooling in the heatwave we are experiencing. We'd like to say we miss the cold and rain of Norway, but it's actually good to end the trip on some fine weather. We did a couple of cycle rides yesterday and today, stopping to swim in the meer.

It is a beautiful area and a bird watcher's paradise with hides and dark sky viewing towers among the cycle paths.

I won't bore you with a lot of avian chat, but the most exciting sights were spoonbills, ruffs and white tailed eagles. These latter are fairly rare and have a 2.5 metre wingspan.

There are wild horses and we saw an otter. Curiously there are also Highland Cattle, who were definitely not enjoying the heat.

We cycled into the port for some fresh fish. I had halibut pieces and Claire a fish salad.

The ferry is Saturday afternoon so we will move a little closer tomorrow but stay on the coast as the next two days are predicted to be in the mid 30s.

 

[DBK]

We had a slightly later start this morning. Partly due to Claire wanting a swim in the River Elbe, but more because the ongoing problem with the fridge deteriorated. Up to now it would sometimes not swap onto battery when the engine started and occasionally the display froze. But in the middle of the night it stopped working on gas. I managed to get it going again by lighting the hob in case an air lock needed flushing through. But two hours later it stopped working again. The display panel now wouldn't even turn off unless I turned off all power to the van. We crept out and plugged in the EHU which fortunately does work. It's frustrating though because in this heat we feel we will have to go to sites than offer hook up.

It's booked in to have the fridge and broken tap looked at, and sounds like it will need a new board. The van is also booked in with our local garage that specialises in vans to have the fuel pipe looked at and the broken tow eye removed. Such is the adventure of motorhome touring.

Anyway, thanks to tonybvi for his tip about the small town of Bourtange, just over the border in the Netherlands. The only option to stay is a camp site, but it is inexpensive at €19.80 with EHU.

View attachment 1226195

Bourtange is a citadel town built in the C16th by one of the Williams of Orange in a star shape with a complex layer of moats. It remained a military garrison until the mid C19th when it became a town but slowly fell into disrepair. In the 1960s a project to rebuild and preserve was launched and the results are fabulous. It is truly beautiful.

It is easy to walk the walls and cross the series of bridges. On one of which there is a working windmill.

View attachment 1226196View attachment 1226197View attachment 1226199
View attachment 1226200

Inside the town is a small square with a nice bar. Two beers cost less here than one in Norway.

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View attachment 1226202

We are probably going to head to the coast tomorrow to enjoy the sun and do a spot of bird watching.

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That's really a lovely place. Decades ago we stayed at a campsite in Belgium which was in a delightful area. It's easy to write off the Low Countries as just countries to drive through but they have places worth visiting.

 

[G-RMPS]

Excellent. I had already planned to stop here!

 

[tonybvi]

Just along the coast from you and a bird watching paradise (even saw a flamingo there a couple of years back) and with an excellent restaurant is the Zwarte Haan - very highly recommended

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Excellent. I had already planned to stop here!

It’s worth it.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Just along the coast from you and a bird watching paradise (even saw a flamingo there a couple of years back) and with an excellent restaurant is the Zwarte Haan - very highly recommended

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We are toying with going there but may decide to push on a little further. Claire has a Saturday morning park run in mind not too far from the Hook.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We decided to take the advice of tonybvi since Bourtange was so nice. We are now at the camperstop that is part of the Zwarte de Haan restaurant on the coast.

Behind the site is the dyke holding back the sea. We decided to go for a bike ride on the path that runs alongside it. It is very difficult to get a decent picture of the dyke but it is very impressive.

Near the restaurant is a monument to those that built the dyke.

We decided to cut inland on some tracks, although all of them are numbered and signposted.

The small town of Nij Altoenae had this maginificnt church.

Now to try the restaurant which certainly has some good reviews.

 

[tonybvi]

We decided to take the advice of tonybvi since Bourtange was so nice. We are now at the camperstop that is part of the Zwarte de Haan restaurant on the coast.

View attachment 1227456

Behind the site is the dyke holding back the sea. We decided to go for a bike ride on the path that runs alongside it. It is very difficult to get a decent picture of the dyke but it is very impressive.

View attachment 1227457

Near the restaurant is a monument to those that built the dyke.

View attachment 1227458

We decided to cut inland on some tracks, although all of them are numbered and signposted.

View attachment 1227459

The small town of Nij Altoenae had this maginificnt church.

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Now to try the restaurant which certainly has some good reviews.

I’m always a bit wary of recommending things because our tastes may not be the same as others. However we’ve eaten at the restaurant 3 times now over the years, including just a week or so back and have always thoroughly enjoyed it. So I hope that you like it as much as we do - bon appetit!

 

[tonybvi]

Just steer clear of some of these beers or you won’t find your way back to the motorhome afterwards!!

 

[Peavy]

Just steer clear of some of these beers or you won’t find your way back to the motorhome afterwards!!

What an impressive selection of belgian beers

 

[Peavy]

Zwarte de Haan

Interesting vast area in front of the Frisian Islands. I guess it must be a great area to cycle too.

 

[Langtoftlad]

That Karmeliet Tripel is headache-inducing if self-control is not exercised...

6 litre keg

 

[Mr porky]

My worst nightmare would be a fridge on the fritz,
Well I suppose I could drink red wine.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I’m always a bit wary of recommending things because our tastes may not be the same as others. However we’ve eaten at the restaurant 3 times now over the years, including just a week or so back and have always thoroughly enjoyed it. So I hope that you like it as much as we do - bon appetit!

No need to worry the food was superb, thank you for such a great tip.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

My worst nightmare would be a fridge on the fritz,
Well I suppose I could drink red wine.

I can imagine. It does work on EHU, but realistically we can't use the freezer. Most journeys are 2-3 hours so it could be worse. But needing EHU is so limiting in Europe.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Just steer clear of some of these beers or you won’t find your way back to the motorhome afterwards!!

View attachment 1227476

... and that's only half of it.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Interesting vast area in front of the Frisian Islands. I guess it must be a great area to cycle too.

It's brilliant cycling. The Netherlands is so geared up for bikes, they seem to take priority over cars. Of course it is easy because it is so flat, unless you are into the strong coastal winds.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

So, Zwarte de Haan Restaurant.

What a great tip from tonybvi, the food was exceptional and fairly reasonable certainly by comparison to Norway and Denmark.

I had fish soup to start and Claire had Mustard soup with smoked salmon.

My main course was lamb chops, whilst Claire had butterfish.

An excellent meal, with drinks €90 which we thought was pretty good. This is a great camperstop which we would thoroughly recommend. If Claire didn't want to do park run tomorrow we might have stuck out the extreme temperatures here tomorrow.

 

[tonybvi]

So, Zwarte de Haan Restaurant.

What a great tip from tonybvi, the food was exceptional and fairly reasonable certainly by comparison to Norway and Denmark.

I had fish soup to start and Claire had Mustard soup with smoked salmon.

View attachment 1227529

My main course was lamb chops, whilst Claire had butterfish.

View attachment 1227530

An excellent meal, with drinks €90 which we thought was pretty good. This is a great camperstop which we would thoroughly recommend. If Claire didn't want to do park run tomorrow we might have stuck out the extreme temperatures here tomorrow.

Thanks for the feed back - I can sleep easy tonight then!

 

[tonybvi]

I like the atmosphere there and when we were in the other week the waitress actually recognised us from last years visit (or so she said, maybe expecting a larger tip) although she did know which table we sat at.

 

[Langtoftlad]

Mustard soup with smoked salmon.

That sounds yummy – I really enjoyed the herring in mustard sauce whilst in Norway

butterfish

Excuse my ignorance – what is butterfish?

 

[Wanders from Glos]

That sounds yummy – I really enjoyed the herring in mustard sauce whilst in Norway

Excuse my ignorance – what is butterfish?

We weren’t sure but think it was a type of cod. Mr porky might know.