In search of the Vikings, Edvard Munch and the Midnight Sun.

[tonybvi]

Mr Google is your friend!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

There is also something about the way each individual ice crystal grows in a glacier over time meaning it no longer refracts the blue light. They were big on it in the Glacier Museum but it obviously didn’t go in properly. Now if it had been historical I’d be able to parrot version explain it

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Mr Google is your friend!

View attachment 1219220

Interestingly (or maybe not) as part of my academic research I looked into the accuracy of AI. Explanations were brilliant, facts slightly less reliable because ultimately it is dependent the accuracy of the data on the internet (GIGO and all that). The referencing was totally made up. None of the academic works the various AI engines quoted even existed.

This was two years ago now and I expect it has improved. At the time it made cheating through AI pretty easy to spot.

So I often feel Google is a useful but not always reliable friend. Although I don’t doubt the accuracy of your search. Rock Flour came up regularly too.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

It’s a lovely warm day here so we will definitely stay today.

 

[tonybvi]

Interestingly (or maybe not) as part of my academic research I looked into the accuracy of AI. Explanations were brilliant, facts slightly less reliable because ultimately it is dependent the accuracy of the data on the internet (GIGO and all that). The referencing was totally made up. None of the academic works the various AI engines quoted even existed.

This was two years ago now and I expect it has improved. At the time it made cheating through AI pretty easy to spot.

So I often feel Google is a useful but not always reliable friend. Although I don’t doubt the accuracy of your search. Rock Flour came up regularly too.

I know. I was trying to remember what I read at the Glacier Museum as well but old age means nothing goes in so therefore nothing can come out either!! Mr Google seemed to repeat some of the stuff I read! Now you mention it I do recall something about crystal size. Bit ashamed to admit my lack of knowledge as I have a degree in Geology but it was more than 50 years ago

 

[Lenny HB]

Just caught up, your thread keeps going off my radar.
Sorry to hear about your breakdown but didn't seem too serious, I respect your decision to return to mainland Europe.
If it happened to us even if I wanted to return I wouldn't have been allowed.

 

[paddymcc]

I really hope the clip has sorted the fuel line. My experience, for what it's worth is that if it stays okay for a few miles it's probably going to be okay, but the anxiety persists for much longer.

If you decide to risk heading back slowly I would recommend Hjorundforden SW of Alusund.

 

[cyberyacht]

The intensity of the blue in icebergs is astounding

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I really hope the clip has sorted the fuel line. My experience, for what it's worth is that if it stays okay for a few miles it's probably going to be okay, but the anxiety persists for much longer.

If you decide to risk heading back slowly I would recommend Hjorundforden SW of Alusund.

Thanks you are probably right. It went again within half a mile and hasn’t since. I think we are nervous because of that and because they have fashioned a workaround to get us moving. So it is probably just anxiety.

It sounds like it has happened to you.

 

[paddymcc]

Thanks you are probably right. It went again within half a mile and hasn’t since. I think we are nervous because of that and because they have fashioned a workaround to get us moving. So it is probably just anxiety.

It sounds like it has happened to you.

Yes, similar but different; a windscreen wiper came loose in the middle of a rainstorm. I thought we had lost it but it had just slipped down. Retightened with an extra washer, it went again but slightly more torque sorted it. Several years on... touch wood.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Not a great deal to report although it’s been a good day. The morning began with sun and it’s always a good day if you start it with breakfast and coffee outside. I posted this picture earlier.

We decided to go for a bike ride to Oppdal about 10 miles away. It was partly on gravel roads along the rapids and the air was filled with the smell of pine. Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures.

The route joined the cycle path along the main E6 where we stopped for a while to marvel at the roadworks. We are easily entertained I know, but one couldn’t help compare. To begin with in the UK the old carriageway would have been considered pretty good, no pot holes or bumps. What amazed us was the scale involved, there must have been five steamrollers (well okay not steam) and multiple lorries. The whole width of the road was being done and the tarmac was watered to cool it down as a car with flashing lights led the traffic over it.

Anyway, Oppdal is a modern skiing town. Built in a Norwegian style and not unpleasant, in fact we liked it. The town is quite upmarket with a shopping centre and an obligatory troll.

One of the reasons for coming was to get the stand on my bike replaced after it fell over and broke in Aurland. I had been told to visit the local Intersport and ask for Stola who dutifully fitted a new one. The cost was comparable with the UK. In fact generally Norway is not proving as expensive as we thought, apart from eating and drinking out. Then we found a lovely delicatessen where we had a sandwich lunch and bought lots of tasty delicacies we didn’t need.

The other reason for the journey was to visit the local open air museum. These folk museums are very common across Norway but we haven’t had the time to visit one. This one had a lot of old houses all filled with furniture of the time. But it was closed!

You could however walk in and look around from the outside. It’s a shame because it looked really good.

We weren’t that bothered as it was a nice ride back and good to have the time to relax. We had planned a barbecue for dinner but the weather has closed in again.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Yes, similar but different; a windscreen wiper came loose in the middle of a rainstorm. I thought we had lost it but it had just slipped down. Retightened with an extra washer, it went again but slightly more torque sorted it. Several years on... touch wood.

Fingers crossed we are the same. If all goes well, we will visit our local garage when we get back to get them to check everything.

 

[paddymcc]

We went to several open air museums. We particularly liked the one on Hardangerfyord with an interesting selection of violins.

 

[tonybvi]

We went to several open air museums. We particularly liked the one on Hardangerfyord with an interesting selection of violins.

The Hardanger Fiddle is a fascinating instrument. Although similar in appearance to a violin it normally has 8 strings, 4 of which are played like a violin and the others “understrung” so that they resonate rather than being played. Many consider it the national instrument of Norway. My wife is a fiddle player and on our current Norway trip I have spent more hours than I care to remember trailing behind her at the various establishments which display Hardanger Fiddles!

 

[Barti Ddu]

It’s a lovely warm day here so we will definitely stay today.

View attachment 1219231

You've certainly got better weather than on the Norwegian south coast. We've had rain and mist all day. Not a great start for our first full day back in Norway.

However in Norway there's no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing, so we donned our waterproofs and explored the coast and forests around Loshavn.

Chanced upon another hiking hut. This one is daytime only - no bunk beds - but had a lovely wood burner that although extinguished, was still hot from whoever had been there earlier in the day. Spent best part of an hour drying out and admiring the view before striking out again.
It's unfortunately inconceivable that this sort of amenity could exist in the UK without it being vandalised or its contents, such as the sheepskin blankets being nicked.

Weather forecast for tomorrow looks thankfully a bit better!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

That hut is superb and all free I assume.

 

[Barti Ddu]

That hut is superb and all free I assume.

Yes. All free. Door unlocked. Come on inside and make yourself at home!

Most of the overnight camping cabins in Norway are provided by the Norwegian Trekking Association (a sort of cross between the YHA and The Ramblers Association), but today's "day cabin" was provided by the local community / kommune.

 

[jockaneezer]

I follow a Finnish lad (farmer/fabricator) on YouTube and he's having a run up through the Arctic Circle in his diy Transit camper, he pulled up at a stop in the far North of Norway and parked near this UK van, is that a Funster sticker in the window on this screenshot ?

 

[Barti Ddu]

I follow a Finnish lad (farmer/fabricator) on YouTube and he's having a run up through the Arctic Circle in his diy Transit camper, he pulled up at a stop in the far North of Norway and parked near this UK van, is that a Funster sticker in the window on this screenshot ?
View attachment 1219555

No, it's a yellow Class 2 French Crit Air sticker.

The Crit'Air anti-pollution vehicle sticker

Paris has become the first restricted traffic area in France. This means that all vehicles travelling in the capital must now carry a ‘Crit’

www.france.fr

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Nice van though.

 

[VXman]

You've certainly got better weather than on the Norwegian south coast. We've had rain and mist all day. Not a great start for our first full day back in Norway.

Rubbish here too. We are somewhere in the middle of the south heading towards Bergen. It has not stopped raining (pretty heavily) since yesterday afternoon. As everything here is outdoors, walking etc it's difficult to know what to do!

I see it's 18 and sunny in Tromso - due to be 23 tomorrow!!! It'll be miserable by time we get there no doubt

 

[Barti Ddu]

Just stopped raining here near Loshavn. Hopefully will have brightened up by lunchtime.

We've been using the wet weather to do a bit more route planning - we're going to be going to similar regions again as two years ago, (but not likely so far north this time), but want to avoid as far as possible taking the same roads as previously. As part of that I looked at my Google Photo history as a map. Shows where we visited in 2024. Quite a useful function.

 

[VXman]

Just stopped raining here near Loshavn. Hopefully will have brightened up by lunchtime.

We've been using the wet weather to do a bit more route planning - we're going to be going to similar regions again as two years ago, (but not likely so far north this time), but want to avoid as far as possible taking the same roads as previously. As part of that I looked at my Google Photo history as a map. Shows where we visited in 2024. Quite a useful function.

View attachment 1219694

We are currently here heading towards Bergen. Strangely feeling the need for a bit of city life!!! After that we'll take the quickest route to Tromsø and then work out way very slowly south along the coast and visiting some islands.

 

[Barti Ddu]

We are currently here heading towards Bergen. Strangely feeling the need for a bit of city life!!! After that we'll take the quickest route to Tromsø and then work out way very slowly south along the coast and visiting some islands.

Once you start heading slowly heading back down the coast again from Tromsø, feel free to ask for any suggestions. Some of the islands are fantastic. Obviously, Senja, Andøya and Loforten in the north. But further south down the coast, the islands of Vega and Torget, both have a couple of easyish half day hikes that are absolutely spectacular.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Rubbish here too. We are somewhere in the middle of the south heading towards Bergen. It has not stopped raining (pretty heavily) since yesterday afternoon. As everything here is outdoors, walking etc it's difficult to know what to do!

I see it's 18 and sunny in Tromso - due to be 23 tomorrow!!! It'll be miserable by time we get there no doubt

Where we broke down was close to the Arctic Circle. So far it’s the hottest place we’ve been

 

[Barti Ddu]

Much nicer weather this afternoon. Currently gloriously sunny!

Been following the official Scenic Route 44 accoss the south coast. Exilerating drive - steep single track roads with passing places, hairpins, bridges, tunnels, more tunnels. Lots of very fast flowing rivers and waterfalls right up to the roadside.

Sogndalstrand - little village and harbour where the Sokno river charges into the sea.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Today we headed into the Dovrefjell National Park. Our plan was to meet with a guide organised by the camp site to go in search of Musk Ox. We met the guide at the train station in Hjerkinn, a hundred year old wooden station that was worth a visit in its own right.

The receptionist had insisted the organised tours were not good enough for us. We certainly got lucky. It turns out this is the person the BBC, other nature programmes and wild life photographers use. He was fully booked until October but as I say we got lucky. This was his one day off.

We had been warned to bring hiking gear and as we began to walk into the mountains we received a tracking lesson, learning the prints of various animals and at one point where two Musk Ox bulls had clashed. These are dangerous animals weighing up to 450kg and they can run at 60mph for a sustained period.

Consequently, we were walked through the three stages before a charge. First a snort, then head shaking and finally stamping. At which point we were told we should run. Fortunately we reckoned we could outrun him. He also told us you shouldn’t get closer than 200m, but that we would be ignoring that.

The walk soon reached the snow line and it was cold with low cloud. We had wooden hats and gloves on, and needed them.

After a while we came upon a small herd and slowly approached. It has been hard to get any decent pictures but here goes.

There were two calves with them and one ran for it, so the others followed, fortunately away from us. We continued into the hills as the cloud lifted to reveal some magnificent views.

We found a moss covered hillock to sit and eat our lunch while we watched another small herd, but I didn’t get any decent pictures of this unfortunately. Whilst there we were fortunate enough to watch two bulls head butting each other. If you are into birds, like I am, we also saw Ptarmigan and Golden Plover.

The moss is actually reindeer moss as they like to eat it. It is very slow growing, and in some cases 100 years old. It is illegal to pick in Norway, but many do for Christmas decorations. It is also incredibly soft to lie on.

As we walked we collected Musk Ox wool, which is eight times as warm as normal wool. It is also worth €5,000 per kilo. Our guide recommended we put it in our gloves or boots and it really does work. He had a hat knitted from it but said he couldn’t wear it above -30C because it got too hot. But then he had just a shirt and thin raincoat on!

On the way down we came across the skeleton of a reindeer, which our guide said he would need to carry back for the park rangers to perform research on why it died. I am pretty sure from the looks we got back at the car park those arriving thought we were a pretty odd bunch.

The antics of Kinge, the guide probably didn't help the looks of bewilderment we were getting.

The cloud cam down again and we walked through it back to our vehicles. In all we had been out for about 5 hours and walked around 7 miles. The cost was £110 for the two of us and I would have happily paid double or triple.

He had told us where to go further down the road to see moose. It was raining quite steadily but we decided to stop and have a quick look. The lay-by was beautifully done as they often are in Norway. We climbed the watch tower but we didn’t hang around long enough to see anything.

We are now at a park up near the old church in Sel.

It is free although they ask for a donation which we will of course make. There is even a toilet, although there must be around 10 vans here so quite a bit of competition for it.

 

[Langtoftlad]

Today we headed into the Dovrefjell National Park. Our plan was to meet with a guide organised by the camp site to go in search of Musk Ox. We met the guide at the train station in Hjerkinn, a hundred year old wooden station that was worth a visit in its own right.

View attachment 1220015

The receptionist had insisted the organised tours were not good enough for us. We certainly got lucky. It turns out this is the person the BBC, other nature programmes and wild life photographers use. He was fully booked until October but as I say we got lucky. This was his one day off.

We had been warned to bring hiking gear and as we began to walk into the mountains we received a tracking lesson, learning the prints of various animals and at one point where two Musk Ox bulls had clashed. These are dangerous animals weighing up to 450kg and they can run at 60mph for a sustained period.

View attachment 1220021

Consequently, we were walked through the three stages before a charge. First a snort, then head shaking and finally stamping. At which point we were told we should run. Fortunately we reckoned we could outrun him. He also told us you shouldn’t get closer than 200m, but that we would be ignoring that.

The walk soon reached the snow line and it was cold with low cloud. We had wooden hats and gloves on, and needed them.

View attachment 1220016

After a while we came upon a small herd and slowly approached. It has been hard to get any decent pictures but here goes.

View attachment 1220019

View attachment 1220017

View attachment 1220018

View attachment 1220020

There were two calves with them and one ran for it, so the others followed, fortunately away from us. We continued into the hills as the cloud lifted to reveal some magnificent views.

View attachment 1220022

We found a moss covered hillock to sit and eat our lunch while we watched another small herd, but I didn’t get any decent pictures of this unfortunately. Whilst there we were fortunate enough to watch two bulls head butting each other. If you are into birds, like I am, we also saw Ptarmigan and Golden Plover.

The moss is actually reindeer moss as they like to eat it. It is very slow growing, and in some cases 100 years old. It is illegal to pick in Norway, but many do for Christmas decorations. It is also incredibly soft to lie on.

View attachment 1220024

As we walked we collected Musk Ox wool, which is eight times as warm as normal wool. It is also worth €5,000 per kilo. Our guide recommended we put it in our gloves or boots and it really does work. He had a hat knitted from it but said he couldn’t wear it above -30C because it got too hot. But then he had just a shirt and thin raincoat on!

View attachment 1220023

On the way down we came across the skeleton of a reindeer, which our guide said he would need to carry back for the park rangers to perform research on why it died. I am pretty sure from the looks we got back at the car park those arriving thought we were a pretty odd bunch.

View attachment 1220028

The antics of Kinge, the guide probably didn't help the looks of bewilderment we were getting.

View attachment 1220025

The cloud cam down again and we walked through it back to our vehicles. In all we had been out for about 5 hours and walked around 7 miles. The cost was £110 for the two of us and I would have happily paid double or triple.

He had told us where to go further down the road to see moose. It was raining quite steadily but we decided to stop and have a quick look. The lay-by was beautifully done as they often are in Norway. We climbed the watch tower but we didn’t hang around long enough to see anything.

View attachment 1220029

View attachment 1220027

We are now at a park up near the old church in Sel.

It is free although they ask for a donation which we will of course make. There is even a toilet, although there must be around 10 vans here so quite a bit of competition for it.

View attachment 1220026

Fabulous !

 

[DBK]

Today we headed into the Dovrefjell National Park. Our plan was to meet with a guide organised by the camp site to go in search of Musk Ox. We met the guide at the train station in Hjerkinn, a hundred year old wooden station that was worth a visit in its own right.

View attachment 1220015

The receptionist had insisted the organised tours were not good enough for us. We certainly got lucky. It turns out this is the person the BBC, other nature programmes and wild life photographers use. He was fully booked until October but as I say we got lucky. This was his one day off.

We had been warned to bring hiking gear and as we began to walk into the mountains we received a tracking lesson, learning the prints of various animals and at one point where two Musk Ox bulls had clashed. These are dangerous animals weighing up to 450kg and they can run at 60mph for a sustained period.

View attachment 1220021

Consequently, we were walked through the three stages before a charge. First a snort, then head shaking and finally stamping. At which point we were told we should run. Fortunately we reckoned we could outrun him. He also told us you shouldn’t get closer than 200m, but that we would be ignoring that.

The walk soon reached the snow line and it was cold with low cloud. We had wooden hats and gloves on, and needed them.

View attachment 1220016

After a while we came upon a small herd and slowly approached. It has been hard to get any decent pictures but here goes.

View attachment 1220019

View attachment 1220017

View attachment 1220018

View attachment 1220020

There were two calves with them and one ran for it, so the others followed, fortunately away from us. We continued into the hills as the cloud lifted to reveal some magnificent views.

View attachment 1220022

We found a moss covered hillock to sit and eat our lunch while we watched another small herd, but I didn’t get any decent pictures of this unfortunately. Whilst there we were fortunate enough to watch two bulls head butting each other. If you are into birds, like I am, we also saw Ptarmigan and Golden Plover.

The moss is actually reindeer moss as they like to eat it. It is very slow growing, and in some cases 100 years old. It is illegal to pick in Norway, but many do for Christmas decorations. It is also incredibly soft to lie on.

View attachment 1220024

As we walked we collected Musk Ox wool, which is eight times as warm as normal wool. It is also worth €5,000 per kilo. Our guide recommended we put it in our gloves or boots and it really does work. He had a hat knitted from it but said he couldn’t wear it above -30C because it got too hot. But then he had just a shirt and thin raincoat on!

View attachment 1220023

On the way down we came across the skeleton of a reindeer, which our guide said he would need to carry back for the park rangers to perform research on why it died. I am pretty sure from the looks we got back at the car park those arriving thought we were a pretty odd bunch.

View attachment 1220028

The antics of Kinge, the guide probably didn't help the looks of bewilderment we were getting.

View attachment 1220025

The cloud cam down again and we walked through it back to our vehicles. In all we had been out for about 5 hours and walked around 7 miles. The cost was £110 for the two of us and I would have happily paid double or triple.

He had told us where to go further down the road to see moose. It was raining quite steadily but we decided to stop and have a quick look. The lay-by was beautifully done as they often are in Norway. We climbed the watch tower but we didn’t hang around long enough to see anything.

View attachment 1220029

View attachment 1220027

We are now at a park up near the old church in Sel.

It is free although they ask for a donation which we will of course make. There is even a toilet, although there must be around 10 vans here so quite a bit of competition for it.

View attachment 1220026

Amazing - and congratulations for the musk ox sightings. I hadn't realised where you are is the only place in Norway where they can be seen.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Amazing - and congratulations for the musk ox sightings. I hadn't realised where you are is the only place in Norway where they can be seen.

Indeed. They were reintroduced after war from the US and Canada. It is difficult to see them all year too as they retreat into the interior twice a year.

The park has calculated the right herd size is around 200 after which they transmit disease between themselves because they travel further. The disease is usually respiratory and tends to come from the salt licks for the sheep and goats being grazed on the mountains.