In search of the Vikings, Edvard Munch and the Midnight Sun.

[Jane NotRog]

I think it looks fantastic! I’m certainly keen to explore Norway myself, preferably while mountain fit for some great hiking.

 

[Barti Ddu]

A picture heavy blog today I’m afraid.

The repair to the fuel pipe has survived another day and we are now about 10km outside Trondheim with the usual pretty fjord view. The alternatives for staying in Trondheim are very limited at the moment so we chose a camp site, which is okay if a little chaotic. But it has a short walk through some fields to a bus route into Trondheim. As expected in Norway the bus system is efficient, clean and not expensive. Under £4 into the city centre.

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Finally, a city in Norway we really like. Trondheim used to be the capital of Norway and so has more historic sites and a greater cosmopolitan flavour. It also has a buzz about it we always like and is one of the reasons we enjoy Spanish towns so much.

Trondheim is also beautiful. We followed a walking route suggested by the tourist office, beginning at the cathedral.

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Every cathedral anywhere in Europe always seems to be the oldest, longest, highest, smallest, fattest, tattiest or whatever else they can come up with. Trondheim is the Gothic cathedral that is the furthest north. A church has stood here since 1035 after King Olav was killed whilst converting Norway to Christianity. He did get martyred for his efforts though. As seems to always be the case in Norway, it kept burning down and so in 1865 the church decided to launch a renovation project in the style of the Gothic European cathedrals.

We are not fans of the Victorian era Gothicisation that took place in the UK, but what makes this one interesting is that it was only finished in 2001 and there were no records of what the West Wing (in the photograph) had originally looked like. So they made it up. The statues are great and quite blood thirsty in some cases.

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We couldn’t go inside because there was a wedding on but we did take a picture of the previous one.

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Nearby is the medieval Archbishop’s Palace.

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Next we walked to the nearby “Old Bridge”. Not that old really given the Roman bridges in Southern Europe. This one was built in the C19th.

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But the views of the old warehouses along Bryggen really were splendid and allowed for the taking of iconic photographs of Trondheim.

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A stroll up a steep hill behind the warehouses brings you to the medieval fortress, housed in a star shape pattern of walls.

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We strolled through the lively cobbled streets of Bakklandet and back across another bridge to the Royal Stiftsgarden residence built out of wood in the 1700s.

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Eventually we found ourselves back in the huge main square which even had restaurants that were open. Recognising people eat early here we went jumped in. We went for tapas, with a beer and glass of wine. The drinks costing nearly as much as the meal.

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You may have gathered we are enjoying Norway but have slightly felt it is all very beautiful but lacks much else. Well Trondheim goes someway to tempering that view. It’s a great place.



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Pleased your fuel pipe fix is holding up, and pleased you enjoyed Trondheim. As I said in post #239 it's a lovely laid back city, and well worth visiting. Better than Bergen. Certainly less busy.

We're currently at Hirtshals. Waiting to board the ferry for Kristiansand.

 

[Grianan]

I’m glad you are enjoying Trondheim. Its the same number of miles home whether you travel fast or make it part of your holiday so hope you continue to find nice places and enjoy the trip.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I know exactly what you mean about Norway. It's beautiful but it's too much of the same beauty.

It’s probably one of the most, if not the most, beautiful places we’ve been. But for us and I know it will be controversial we like more variety.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I’m glad you are enjoying Trondheim. It’s the same number of miles home whether you travel fast or make it part of your holiday so hope you continue to find nice places and enjoy the trip.

Yes exactly. We will keep heading south and find somewhere to stay for a couple of days. I’d really like to do a musk ox safari so we may head to the Oppdal area.

 

[Margaux2]

The motorhome has been cleaned, fiddled with and packed with clothes for warm weather, cold weather and all that falls in between. We have topped up with gas and fitted a dash cam to avoid the problems we encountered in Spain. Hopefully we will also get some video of beautiful roads.

We have got our Flyt toll tag and it has been registered to AutoPass Ferje enabling a 50% discount on the many ferries across fjords and to islands. We have watched travel blogs on YouTube and even downloaded various Norwegian apps we think might be useful. One of these is the TOLL app. This is a clever bit of software that allows you to enter exactly what you are taking into Norway right down to the capacity of the beer cans. Once done it tells you how much customs duty you need to pay and of course allows you to pay it. In our case we were able to try various combinations of gin, wine and beer until we are tax free. We really don’t have an alcohol problem, honest guv. It’s just that alcohol is expensive in Norway and tightly controlled.

We are staying at the port in Harwich today, ready for tomorrow morning’s Hook of Holland ferry. Although we were pretty sure, I checked with the port that it will be okay to stay overnight. They couldn’t have been more helpful even telling us not to bother joining the queue until around 8pm even though we will see it moving much earlier. The lady also told us where to get some good fish and chips, although unfortunately the shop was shut. On arrival, another lady in hi viz asked whether we are catching the ferry tonight or tomorrow morning, then smiled and directed us where to park. It couldn’t have been simpler.

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We’ve decided we won’t try to explore Denmark, it has so much to offer we feel it merits a separate trip. Instead we will make our way straight to Hirtshals at the far north of Denmark and catch the ferry to Kristiansand in Norway. Pretty much the traditional (and cheapest) route. We revert to type once we get to Norway, with no return organised. There are so many options we have decided to see how we go, possibly returning via the Oresund Bridge if time allows.

Speaking of time, we have six weeks with no clear plan other than heading to Oslo first and then exploring the South West of Norway before pushing north toward the Lofoton Islands or even Senja if the weather is kind and we think we have time. We have noted quite a few places we’d like to see but of course we won’t be able to do it all so we will go with the flow and see what happens. Once we get to Norway, we will try drive no more than 100 or at most 150 miles in a day so that we can take in all the country has to offer. Every few days there will be a few days stopover somewhere interesting or pretty. We are hoping for lots of scenery, to experience the midnight sun, do a bit of touristing, eat some nice sea food, take some good walks and a few bike rides.

But first we need to get to catch the ferry.

I wonder if Scandinavia in Summer is like Scotland? 1 billion mosquitoes per capita!

 

[Grianan]

It’s probably one of the most, if not the most, beautiful places we’ve been. But for us and I know it will be controversial we like more variety.

This is interesting … I am unashamedly biased but I think the Scottish highlands are hard to beat … but the painted wood houses in Norway are a beautiful contrast to the landscape.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

This is interesting … I am unashamedly biased but I think the Scottish highlands are hard to beat … but the painted wood houses in Norway are a beautiful contrast to the landscape.

Scotland is hard to beat. It’s like Scotland on a grander scale. Plus the space means the houses look better and they are warmer and more individual. But haven’t seen any white sand beaches like the north coast of Scotland yet.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I wonder if Scandinavia in Summer is like Scotland? 1 billion mosquitoes per capita!

Not so far. We had been warned about them, but no issues at all.

 

[SafeReturnDoubtful]

There is much less problem with mosquitoes on the west coast, and up in the Arctic they should be gone by mid August.

 

[Barti Ddu]

This is interesting … I am unashamedly biased but I think the Scottish highlands are hard to beat … but the painted wood houses in Norway are a beautiful contrast to the landscape.

I love the Scottish Highlands too, but Norway is like Scotland on steroids!

Norwegian infrastructure for motorhomes is also fantastic. Lots of wild camping opportunities and lots of free service points for fresh water and grey and elsan disposal.

Currently at sea. Only three and a half hours before we dock in Kristiansand!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

I love the Scottish Highlands too, but Norway is like Scotland on steroids!

Norwegian infrastructure for motorhomes is also fantastic. Lots of wild camping opportunities and lots of free service points for fresh water and grey and elsan disposal.

Currently at sea. Only three and a half hours before we dock in Kristiansand!

Good description, sums it up perfectly.

 

[Riverbankannie]

It’s probably one of the most, if not the most, beautiful places we’ve been. But for us and I know it will be controversial we like more variety.

We found it a bit too chilly for walking around but went to the cathedral and bridge. Midday in March and last day of our trip, flew back from Trondheim. It does look more attractive in the sunshine.

 

[Barti Ddu]

Yes exactly. We will keep heading south and find somewhere to stay for a couple of days. I’d really like to do a musk ox safari so we may head to the Oppdal area.

As you head back towards the ferry at Kristiansand, I'd highly recommend incorporating these three National Tourist Routes, rather than just returning down the main E roads. It's a little further, (although still heading generally south), and they are some of the most varied and beautiful parts of Norway, particularly the first two. The three routes sort of follow on from each other and will bring you out towards Kristiansand from the west.

Hardanger

Several drives through a long-established tourism area. Waterfalls and glaciers form mighty stage sets that have attracted tourists for more than a century

www.nasjonaleturistveger.no

Ryfylke

A drive in the borderland between the archipelago and the highland moors, from Lysefjorden to Sauda and over the mountain pass to Røldal.

www.nasjonaleturistveger.no

Jæren

A journey through distinctive cultural landscapes and idyllic coastal towns along the North Sea.

www.nasjonaleturistveger.no

 

[Wanders from Glos]

As you head back towards the ferry at Kristiansand, I'd highly recommend incorporating these three National Tourist Routes, rather than just returning down the main E roads. It's a little further, (although still heading generally south), and they are some of the most varied and beautiful parts of Norway, particularly the first two. The three routes sort of follow on from each other and will bring you out towards Kristiansand from the west.

Hardanger

Several drives through a long-established tourism area. Waterfalls and glaciers form mighty stage sets that have attracted tourists for more than a century

www.nasjonaleturistveger.no

Ryfylke

A drive in the borderland between the archipelago and the highland moors, from Lysefjorden to Sauda and over the mountain pass to Røldal.

www.nasjonaleturistveger.no

Jæren

A journey through distinctive cultural landscapes and idyllic coastal towns along the North Sea.

www.nasjonaleturistveger.no

Thanks they do look good and worth investigating. I guess it will depend on how much we are able to trust the fuel pipe repair

 

[Wanders from Glos]

We found it a bit too chilly for walking around but went to the cathedral and bridge. Midday in March and last day of our trip, flew back from Trondheim. It does look more attractive in the sunshine.
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Looks Chilly.

 

[Barti Ddu]

Thanks they do look good and worth investigating. I guess it will depend on how much we are able to trust the fuel pipe repair

Looks like the fuel pipe is holding up so far, and at least psychologically you're heading towards home even if taking a wandering route.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Looks like the fuel pipe is holding up so far, and at least psychologically you're heading towards home even if taking a wandering route.

Yes absolutely. I suspect much of it in the mind now. We are just past Oppdal now at a camp site to get washing done. We might stay another day and do a walk or cycle tomorrow and then head off to do a musk ox safari.

 

[jumartoo]

I wonder if Scandinavia in Summer is like Scotland? 1 billion mosquitoes per capita!

We didn't see one mozzie in Norway on our three visits there.

 

[Peavy]

the houses look better and they are warmer and more individual

A few years ago, after my first visit to Norway, I evaluate the possibility of a temporary house swap (there was an Airbnb kind of web for that). I was impressed with the Norwegian houses and thought they would love to roast in our Mediterranean summer while we enjoyed a soft climate... Never materialised, though.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

A few years ago, after my first visit to Norway, I evaluate the possibility of a temporary house swap (there was an Airbnb kind of web for that). I was impressed with the Norwegian houses and thought they would love to roast in our Mediterranean summer while we enjoyed a soft climate... Never materialised, though.

They seem very well built and they keep everything very warm because they are so well insulated. Like everything in Norway, the job is done properly.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Less to report today. The repair appears to have held up so far which is good news, although we still can’t quite relax fully.

A beautiful scenic drive today to where we are now, about 15 kilometres south of Oppdal. We have stopped at a camp site so that we can get some washing done and have a day off the stress of driving.

We are next to a fast flowing river, in a beautifully kept campsite. It is £28 per night, pretty much the same as the hotel car park in Oppdal itself.

https://park4night.com/en/place/82027

The campsite is next to the Magalaupet rapids. The ruins of the old bridge are still visible. It sounds horrifying to cross.

The river is fast and furious everywhere particularly where it is forced through a narrow gap for about 100 metres. We took lots of photos and videos, here are a few.

The weather today has been a mix of showers and sun, but the forecast tomorrow is quite good so we think we will stay another day.

 

[Jane NotRog]

Wow, that water is beautiful. Those blues!

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Wow, that water is beautiful. Those blues!

We think it rises perhaps three times the height in the thaws. There is some snow still but not much.

 

[Peavy]

"travelers disliked these bridges" yeah nah yeah

 

[tonybvi]

They seem very well built and they keep everything very warm because they are so well insulated. Like everything in Norway, the job is done properly.

Our 4 bed detached house in Norway 40 years ago was built to better standards than any UK house even today. Naturally it was built of wood and was triple glazed. We had no heating except for a wood burning stove in the central part of the house downstairs. The house was never cold and cost peanuts to heat. I still have the building plans stacked away somewhere as I wanted to build similar here but life got in the way!

 

[Grianan]

Look at the colour of that water! Stunning.

 

[Wanders from Glos]

Look at the colour of that water! Stunning.

At the Glacier museum they explained to us that melt water from ice is often blue. I’m not a scientist so much of it goes above my head but it was something to do with the fact that individual ice crystals can grow during a period of cold.

 

[Langtoftlad]

Look at the colour of that water! Stunning.

It's amazing isn't it.
This was the colour when we stopped at one of the spurs off the Sognefjord on a RIB excursion.

 

[Grianan]

At the Glacier museum they explained to us that melt water from ice is often blue. I’m not a scientist so much of it goes above my head but it was something to do with the fact that individual ice crystals can grow during a period of cold.

That’s interesting … I had assumed the colour was dictated by the rocks the water was flowing over rather than the water itself. You learn something new every day!