Hymer Taps

Figaro

Figaro

Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Posts
10,855
Likes collected
22,892
Location
Newcastle under Lyme
Funster No
15,397
MH
Hymer B544 A Class
Exp
Since 2015
My kitchen tap has developed a leak, it's pooling at the base and finding its way into the cupboard below (not Frost damage)
Anyone know if it's repairable or a supplier for replacement ?
TIA

IMG_20200524_113559607.jpg
 
I replaced mine with a solid brass one because with mine I kept having problems with the spout splitting, I will see if I can find a link to what I fitted.
But the one I have now started leaking around the swivel and I stripped it cleaned off the scale and used silicone grease and it’s fine now.
 
There is an O ring on the spout where it fits the body, worth checking. Another common problem is a hairline crack in the body where the tap has frozen due to not being drained down properly.
Worth taking the tap off and having a good look at it, Reich taps aren't cheap but they are like most Motorhome taps crap.
 
you cant fit domestic taps in a hymer as they have micro switches with a submersible pump this is why lenny has fitted a pressure sensing pump (shurflo)

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Nomadian said:
It does indeed just push on. If you grip just the spout bit on your old tap and pull and twist the spout will pull off and reveal the o ring that LennyHB mentions.
Click to expand...

Beware, some Reich tap spouts have a little set-screw in the underside where it pushes on to the main body.

The set-screw needs to be undone first before pulling off the spout. I tried to remove my spout (without removing the screw) with devastating consequences :eek:

Must admit, I've replaced quite a few Reich spouts in the past and this one was the first that had a screw.

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Thanks guys, I think I`ll try just replacing the spout for now and see how it goes
 
Figaro said:
After looking closer I've found its split along the length of the spout as Manic described.
Click to expand...
That indicates it's been frozen.
A mistake a lot of people make when draining down it forgetting to centre the mixer tap so one side still has water in it.
 
Lenny HB said:
That indicates it's been frozen.
A mistake a lot of people make when draining down it forgetting to centre the mixer tap so one side still has water in it.
Click to expand...
I don`t think it`s been frozen, I always centre it and open drain taps in locker before frost and we never had much of a frost over last winter anyway.
I think it`s just general deterioration of the plastic seam, like us all, it`s feeling it`s age :(
 
You could pull the spout off and put some sealant around the spigot and put it back on, I did that and it lasted a good few months.
 
It actually seems to be leaking in a couple of places along the length of the seam on the spout and not the spigot.
It might be possible to reseal by melting plastic with a soldering iron but the chrome effect would be damaged and look unsightly so I ordered a new spout.
Thanks for your help (y)

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I've been trying out 'glue' that is liquid, and hardens with ultraviolet light. The kit comes complete with a tiny torch with an LED that emits UV, and hardens the liquid in a few seconds. You can get various varieties, from very thick liquid to very runny liquid designed to penetrate cracks. It might be worth trying, because it sounds like the crack just runs in from the surface.
 
Ok, a follow up on this saga.....
With some helpful info from Wagoneer and others, I decided if remove the tap to replace the spout, not necessary as it turned out but there was a worm screw I couldn't remove with it in situ and this might have been necessary to get the spout off.
Anyway on reassembly the tap leaked from the base and it turned out the body had cracked where the tails push in.
So I've returned the spout and ordered a new tap.
My question now concerns the hose connection, existing hoses push on and a jubilee clips secures.
The new tap seems to have different looking tails, but described as taking 12mm flexible hose.
Do I need an adapter to make the connection ?
Screenshot_20200603-214814.png
 
You need barbed tails for flexible pipes. The tails shown in the pic are for connection to a John Guest fitting which could connect to either a rigid or flexible pipe.
 
I think that photo of the tap is an old one the Reich taps all have barbed stepped tails now.

Reich taps are stepped so they take both 10 & 12mm hose. When I fitted. A shower mixer tap in the garage I found most info said 12 mm took a chance and ordered one as all the Hymer taps were Reich. The 10mm pipe fitted fine.

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I`m not sure then if my hoses are 10 or 12 mm.
Are the John Guest fittings motorhome / caravan specific, how will they connect to my hoses ?
 
Interestingly the description also says Barbed Connections - confused now, I`ll have to wait and see what turns up

Key Features

  • Complete with micro-switch
  • 360° swiveling spout
  • Weight approx.: 0.260kg
  • Installation hole fitment
  • Barbed connections
  • Cable length: 600mm
  • Colour: Chrome
  • Requires an installation Hole of 27mm
  • Spout length 175mm
  • Maximum pressure 6 bar
  • Weight 0.26kg
  • Takes 12mm flexible hose
 
If they are wrong tails you could swap them for you original ones, just need to push out a pin and then they pull out.
4463BC2F-27EA-4A64-8D98-0F643A0034F2.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Figaro said:
I`m not sure then if my hoses are 10 or 12 mm.
Are the John Guest fittings motorhome / caravan specific, how will they connect to my hoses ?
Click to expand...
Hymer use 10mm flexible hose.
Figaro said:
Interestingly the description also says Barbed Connections - confused now, I`ll have to wait and see what turns up
Click to expand...
If they are barbed connections they will fit see my post #12.
 

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