Guitar painting

The lacquer, or any finish on a guitar should allow the wood to breath and vibrate to produce the characteristic sound of the guitar. On a cheap guitar it would make little difference if painted but I wouldn't advise doing it on an expensive one.
 
I think it might depend on the type of guitar. If it's electric with a solid body it might be ok although it would need the right primer. I am not an expert!!!!
 
One of my customers owned a motor factors selling paint and sundries, he was a keen guitarist and used to buy and sell them always stripping them down, repairing and painting in some wondrous colours and designs, he used exactly the same process and products as we did on the cars so I would think that if prepped right you could get quite a good finish on a guitar, of course these were all solid bodied electric not acoustic.
With a rattle can patience and a fair few coats will be needed. :giggle:
 
Is it solid or semi or acoustic. If you trawl the websites of the major manufacturers there's usually information on the finish of their products. If you have similar products in mind then there you go, a classic in the making!

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I sprayed a solid body electric guitar with red metallic rattle can paint from Halfords about y50 years ago. It came out fine with no effect on its performance. I only kept it for a couple of years after so I have no idea what the long term performance would have been but I can’t imagine there would have been any problems.
The most expensive guitars (and most vintage instruments) are finished in nitro-cellulose - a relatively thin coating which allegedly improves the tone of the instrument. It also wears quite quickly giving the “vintage” look some people will pay extra for.
the vast majority of guitars are finished in Polyester which is quite thick and very hard wearing although more susceptible to chips than Nitro.
if you are restoring a guitar of any value, research the original finish and replicate it. If the instrument is not particularly valuable then rattle-can car products will suffice. If you do use a car product the paint can run and sag very easily so remember the old advice about lots of thin coats.
Loads of youtube videos and online articles relating to guitar finishing and available products.
 
Could be worth copying Eddie Van Halen's one

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Just before you spray that guitar, if the paint has flaked off or it’s been dropped etc companies such as Fender sell stressed guitars you may have an investment there ? also if the paint has come off you know for sure it’s made from wood. ?
 
Fender has 3 levels of ageing its new guitars: Closet Classic (formerly Roadworn), Relic, and Heavy Relic.
these are produced in the Custom Shop so they are expensive guitars to start with and then there is a premium for the additional work invokved in ageing them.
A genuine 60s strat can often be bought for less than the cost of a new Custom Shop model. It’s crazy.
An original and a CS aged model are easily distinguished form each other by the serial number.
there’s no money to be made from new Cs aged models - they depreciate just like high end motor cars.
Originals are a different matter but there are a lot of fakes and “partscasters” (made from parts from different donor guitars) around.
never buy a guitar as an investment unless you really, really know your stuff (eg how many screws would there be on the scratchplate of a 1965 strat vs a 1964, how to check the manufacture date of various parts including necks, bodies, pickups, tuners, controls etc)

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Fender has 3 levels of ageing its new guitars: Closet Classic (formerly Roadworn), Relic, and Heavy Relic.
these are produced in the Custom Shop so they are expensive guitars to start with and then there is a premium for the additional work invokved in ageing them.
A genuine 60s strat can often be bought for less than the cost of a new Custom Shop model. It’s crazy.
An original and a CS aged model are easily distinguished form each other by the serial number.
there’s no money to be made from new Cs aged models - they depreciate just like high end motor cars.
Originals are a different matter but there are a lot of fakes and “partscasters” (made from parts from different donor guitars) around.
never buy a guitar as an investment unless you really, really know your stuff (eg how many screws would there be on the scratchplate of a 1965 strat vs a 1964, how to check the manufacture date of various parts including necks, bodies, pickups, tuners, controls etc)
it is an interesting area, I purchased a Gibson based on its age it was in part an impulse purchase and it’s rare I buy in impulse. You are right I did not do my research. When I returned home I started checking serial numbers etc which is a bit of a minefield on a Gibson but was suspicious it wasn’t what it was sold as. I went off to Peach Guitars in Colchester and had a chat withJohn who confirmed my fears, I was lucky I returned the instrument from where I purchased it, went back to Peach and brought a PRS instead. Whilst tempted don’t think I will attempt to buy a classic again unless it comes from a reputable dealer like Peach.
 
it is an interesting area, I purchased a Gibson based on its age it was in part an impulse purchase and it’s rare I buy in impulse. You are right I did not do my research. When I returned home I started checking serial numbers etc which is a bit of a minefield on a Gibson but was suspicious it wasn’t what it was sold as. I went off to Peach Guitars in Colchester and had a chat withJohn who confirmed my fears, I was lucky I returned the instrument from where I purchased it, went back to Peach and brought a PRS instead. Whilst tempted don’t think I will attempt to buy a classic again unless it comes from a reputable dealer like Peach.
Gibsons are a little less susceptible to forgeries simply because they are made differently to Fenders.
Fenders have necks which are screwed to the body while a Gibson has A mortice and tenon joint which is glued. You can easily build a ”Fender“ from cheap parts but not a Gibson.
However there have been a lot of Chinese Gibson copies made (known in the trade as Chibsons). Some of these are extremely good forgeries but most have a few easy to spot giveaway signs. And if you have owned and played a Gibson you would probably recognise a Chibson as soon as you pick it up and play it.
 
Gibsons are a little less susceptible to forgeries simply because they are made differently to Fenders.
Fenders have necks which are screwed to the body while a Gibson has A mortice and tenon joint which is glued. You can easily build a ”Fender“ from cheap parts but not a Gibson.
However there have been a lot of Chinese Gibson copies made (known in the trade as Chibsons). Some of these are extremely good forgeries but most have a few easy to spot giveaway signs. And if you have owned and played a Gibson you would probably recognise a Chibson as soon as you pick it up and play it.
I have never played a Gibson but understand what your saying, mind you there is a wicked rumour circulating that I cant play a guitar anyway, not going to comment on how true this is;)
 
Whist on the subject of guitars I own a eko cygnus guitar with built-in effect's I bought it about 1973 s/h and have cherished it ever since but will be selling it soon ,does anyone know the best way to sell quite a expensive guitar
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No but I used some to make a pair of shoes match my outfit in the 60s

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As above the 2 best options are eBay or specialist auctioneers https://www.gardinerhoulgate.co.uk/departments/6/Guitars
they have auctions several times a year and get a lot of rare and unusual guutars. their valuer must be pretty good because sold lots nearly always fall within his estimated range. It could be worth giving them a call to get a valuation.
 
Whist on the subject of guitars I own a eko cygnus guitar with built-in effect's I bought it about 1973 s/h and have cherished it ever since but will be selling it soon ,does anyone know the best way to sell quite a expensive guitarView attachment 373420View attachment 373421
That is a seriously rare and unusual guitar - I haven’t seen one like it in over 50 years of playing and buying/selling guitars. That doesn’t automatically make it valuable of course - there were many crap guitars made in the 60s which is when I would guess this guitar was made. However Eko was a respected Italian maker so I would think it has some value. The fact that the neck and body are fully bound implies this was not a budget instrument when it was first made.
Even crap guitars from the 60s such as Teisco go for £2-300.
i’ve got an old guitar bible somewhere - I will see if I can find out anything for you.
 
Found one currently for sale in Italy (with free Covid19)
your guitar could be quite valuable!
a call to the auctioneers would definitely be in order.

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Thanks everyone I will follow up on some of your suggestions. I noticed my cygnus has a switch by the sound hole on the front I will have to get my amp out of the loft to see what happens
 

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