Fridge help (1 Viewer)

Silver-Fox

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IMG_2943.JPG IMG_2943.JPG IMG_2944.JPG IMG_2945.JPG IMG_2943.JPG IMG_2944.JPG IMG_2945.JPG Hi all

Hope some one can solve this mystery on our fridge.

It works ok on 12v or appears to be.
Not tried 240v as out and about at mo.

I'm trying to get it working on gas but no spark
Got cover off outside of fridge gas is on at both taps.
Checked fuses and presume the last one the led should be lit but isn't.

Any help would be great as I don't want the beers getting warm :)

Pics for info
 
Oct 1, 2013
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Sometimes fridges are allergic to food. Chuck it all away and fill with beer :)

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funflair

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If the fuse is OK check that 12v is getting to the fuse holder, one side should show 12v between it and a chassis ground.

Martin
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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Should have said the green light on the fridge for gas is flickering

image.jpg

Of course the pic caught it on doh

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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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If the fuse is OK check that 12v is getting to the fuse holder, one side should show 12v between it and a chassis ground.

Martin

Just tested with the led screwdriver and very dim light so guessing no power as other fuses are showing bright on the screwdriver.

Should have said no power either side of fuse holder
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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Just had another check I don't think it's even working on 12v :(

Is the under seat fuses any thing to do with the jab electrics
It's a Rapido 995m

Ta
 
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Is the sparkler on the same circuit as the rest...? As you have power to the fridge..?

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denisejoe

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Won't work on 12v unless engine running have you checked to see if it's sparking outside you should be able to hear it
Joe
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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Won't work on 12v unless engine running have you checked to see if it's sparking outside you should be able to hear it
Joe

No spark at all
I took the cover off to see if anything obvious was amiss but no

Can't figure out why no power to the fuse in the box or it might be a red herring ?
 

Vanman

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Just a wild guess ... but don't gas fridges have to be absolutely level to work?
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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We have levelled up within 1 deg so all should be good.

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Jul 13, 2008
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Sure you would still hear the ignition even if you weren't level.
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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Sure you would still hear the ignition even if you weren't level.

I presume even if it didn't fire up

Just scanned through some older posts and I do have Elec to the fridge so interior light works etc.

I hate mysteries
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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SWMBO has been investigating on the internet and it seems something as simple as spiders in the burner tube o_O

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pappajohn

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SWMBO has been investigating on the internet and it seems something as simple as spiders in the burner tube o_O
Even so, you would still hear the igniter clicking away.
Rust and crud in the burner tube blocks the jet but electrical failure (possibly circuit board) kills the igniter.
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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Even so, you would still hear the igniter clicking away.
Rust and crud in the burner tube blocks the jet but electrical failure (possibly circuit board) kills the igniter.

Seems like it might be circuit board or some hidden fuse or relay

Would the circuit board be in the controller at the back of the fridge by the igniter the grey box?
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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Had another look now it's light and still can't see an "issue" ohh bother.

Think it will have to wait till we get home :cry:
 

Jaws

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The 25 amp fuse is for running the fridge with the engine running#
The piezo unit draws milliamps and if it IS fused it will usually hve a max of a 1 amp fuse in the line

Not familiar with your particular van so cannot suggest where it will be picking up the feed for the piezo unit, but....

Does the light come on when you open the door ?

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Jaws

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Just looking at the pics.. Try unplugging the long white plug, squirt a bit of ACF50 or switch cleaner in each hole, then plug in, unpluig, plug in a few times to clean up the contacts..
Please do NOT use WD40.. It is not suitable for the job.. In fact WD40 is not suitable for an awful lot of jobs folk use it for !!
 
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Silver-Fox

Silver-Fox

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Thanks @Jaws

SWMBO decided to do the housework for 15 mins and suggested I have another fiddle with it.

I did remove the connector as you suggested and used a nail file, same as the old days, to clean all the contact points. Including the relay and earth ones.

Blew the burner area out for good measure as well.

Replaced fuse started engine and turned to gas feed and hey presto sparky spark and we have lift off (y)

Switched over to auto and gas went off dropped on to 12v (y)

Turned off engine and waited for gas to kick back in and bingo, all system go.

Unfortunately I haven't got a clue what actually sorted it.
When I get home I'll give all the connections a good going over with the correct fluid, as you say not wd40.

Thanks for all the replies (y)
 

GWAYGWAY

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Bad earth? check all the tags and also if the valve is working. A load of crud from the inside of the exhaust tube will drop down and short the igniter out. Take the twirly baffle out of the top of the tube on the wire and get a flue brush from screwfix and extend it with something to allow you to clean out the whole tube of rust and soot, blow it up and clean the burner area along with the igniter wire. replace everything and try again.
 

GWAYGWAY

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By blow it up, I MEANT THE DIRT, UP THE TUBE, not the hapless van. Before some witless person attacks me for encouraging explosions.
 

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