Fridge burner sounds dirty but isn't - help!

Joined
Sep 20, 2015
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Location
Slovenia
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38,644
MH
N+B Arto 79R
Exp
since 2014
My fridge burner struggles to ignite. It clicks and rattles like a dirty burner in need of cleaning BUT it's a brand new burner! Does anybody know what can be causing this please as its not a build up of soot.
 
The gas release relay before the burner can sometimes get partially blocked
Have seen it a couple of times but both times refillable LPG had been used for a couple of years.
Automotive gas has a tiny oil content that can gum up stuff... I have just had to service our cooker.. Every jet was partially blocked, and yes, we have been on LPG for years
 
Jaws Good point, but when it's running I get a healthy flame. I've watched the burner during ignition and there is a good spark but the ignited flame pulses whilst the electrode is sparking and doesn't always stay alight. Puzzling!
 
How long does it take to settle down? How long has it been off? On a lot of fridges the gas valve is some distance from the burner, on initial lighting it can take a while for the gas to get through at 100%. Once it has lit, shut it down and then re-light after 3 minutes, if it lights with no problems don't worry.
 
Jaws Good point, but when it's running I get a healthy flame. I've watched the burner during ignition and there is a good spark but the ignited flame pulses whilst the electrode is sparking and doesn't always stay alight. Puzzling!
When you shut it down, do you turn off the gas at the bottle ?
If so, it may well be as others have said.. it takes a while for any air to completely purge

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Jaws We live in the van and the fridge is permanently switched on. The flame ignites immediately but pulses, as in:- goes out/relights/goes out/relights, and at the end of the ignition process is not aways alight! Sometimes it needs more than one ignition sequence to run, if after two attempts it fails, it goes in to failure mode with warning red light. We then have to switch the fridge off and then on again, normally but not aways, successful getting it to run.
 
Try giving the gas inlet solenoid a gentle tap with the plastic handle of a screwdriver as it's lighting to check that it's not sticking and make sure the push on Lucar connector supplying the power to it isn't corroded.
 
Jaws We live in the van and the fridge is permanently switched on. The flame ignites immediately but pulses, as in:- goes out/relights/goes out/relights, and at the end of the ignition process is not aways alight! Sometimes it needs more than one ignition sequence to run, if after two attempts it fails, it goes in to failure mode with warning red light. We then have to switch the fridge off and then on again, normally but not aways, successful getting it to run.
Is the thermocoupler well in the pilot flame ?
Sounds like it is only partially working.. Hence it takes a couple of times to reach the heat it needs to open the valve
 
Never experienced this, however you say the burner unit is new?. Begs the question are the settings correct? eg; is the relationship of the igniter (and Thermocouple) to the burner the correct distance?. Too close, poor spark, too far intermittent spark? Among other things that may affect it are possibly a failing igniter unit?. and or low voltage due to dirty/corroded connections? This in addition to those already posted?. Ultimately of course the Control board may have a faulty component, Hopefully not that, as they where never cheap!.

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My fridge burner struggles to ignite. It clicks and rattles like a dirty burner in need of cleaning BUT it's a brand new burner!
Is that a clue that the thermocouple or igniter unit is incorrectly aligned with the new burner unit?
 
As has already been mentioned , positioning of ignitor, burner and thermocouple are critical.
Also as with all gas devices it is advisable to have them serviced by a competent gas qualified engineer.
 
Try pulling off the connections from the gas valve and sparkerbox one at a time and check they are all clean and not corroded.
Our connection to the sparkler box was dodgy so I had to rewire it a few years ago.
This year I had to change the gas valve as it was playing up.
 
I've had similar issues with my fridge on gas. Found the chimney flue was very sooty. Borrowed some miniature chimney cleaners and it was really dirty in there. Now working fine.

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I had similar and it was the other end of the ignition wires where they plug into the box that needed cleaning reseating
 
Almost two months ago the fridge had a new cooling unit fitted complete with new burner, all done by a mobile engineer. (Includes chimney) The gas worked fine after his work.
As we are now in Germany, he can't check it out, but I have spoken to him on the phone and I have subsequently checked all the accessible electrical connections in case something has been disturbed or has corrosion, some I have replaced and all cleaned. I've removed and checked burner and its gas feed pipe - all seems ok.
I'm beginning to wonder if the pcb has a problem?
All suggestions are welcome and are being checked. Thank you everybody for your help.
 
Almost two months ago the fridge had a new cooling unit fitted complete with new burner, all done by a mobile engineer. (Includes chimney) The gas worked fine after his work.
As we are now in Germany, he can't check it out, but I have spoken to him on the phone and I have subsequently checked all the accessible electrical connections in case something has been disturbed or has corrosion, some I have replaced and all cleaned. I've removed and checked burner and its gas feed pipe - all seems ok.
I'm beginning to wonder if the pcb has a problem?
All suggestions are welcome and are being checked. Thank you everybody for your help.
And top man for keeping us in the loop !
Folk often forget it is a two way street :-)
 

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