Fiat Ducato plastic under tray

sonar

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I am looking for details and information of fitting ect for a

Fiat Ducato 2003- plastic under tray​

under the engine plastic tray.
I think they come in two parts.
 
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there are a couple on fleabay at around £60 with fittings.

Thank you that’s the one I think I may have been looking for under engine covers don’t know why I could not find it.
but Thank you that’s the one… well the type of one I need.. just ordered was only £48.
thanks again ..
 
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Three bolts to the rear on the subframe . Four to the front cross member . I can give you the thread size and length if needed . There are two nuts fitted , each side in the wheelarch's , but frankly , these may not be useable . Mine seared off , so i don't use them .

The part you've ordered is an aftermarket part , it does fit , i have one on mine . However , it does rub against the sump , so when i refit it (i'm working on my van right now) , i'm gonna fit some spacers . I can supply the information for them , again if you need it . All extra parts sourced from ebay .

They are not listed on any ebay motorhome lists , but on Ducato spare parts list , so that maybe the reason , why you struggled to find them . Also advertisers are a little short at this time of year , should pick up in the New Year . Also take a look at Coastal Motorhomes on google for a vehicle of this age .
 
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Three bolts to the rear on the subframe . Four to the front cross member . I can give you the thread size and length if needed . There are two nuts fitted , each side in the wheelarch's , but frankly , these may not be useable . Mine seared off , so i don't use them .

The part you've ordered is an aftermarket part , it does fit , i have one on mine . However , it does rub against the sump , so when i refit it (i'm working on my van right now) , i'm gonna fit some spacers . I can supply the information for them , again if you need it . All extra parts sourced from ebay .

They are not listed on any ebay motorhome lists , but on Ducato spare parts list , so that maybe the reason , why you struggled to find them . Also advertisers are a little short at this time of year , should pick up in the New Year . Also take a look at Coastal Motorhomes on google for a vehicle of this age .
The four front cross member bolts I thought were the same ones as the bumper fits to that’s four front ones
the back bolts I do not have yet so details on the back ones would welcome.
I have not fitted it yet as it arrives this week. But I still have the cross member to change as it is rotted but covered up with GRP.
that cross frame I have but now need some ramps to get under it to do that as well.

the one I have ordered is this one. But a bit cheaper from another seller hence no bolts.

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The four front cross member bolts I thought were the same ones as the bumper fits to that’s four front ones
the back bolts I do not have yet so details on the back ones would welcome.
I have not fitted it yet as it arrives this week. But I still have the cross member to change as it is rotted but covered up with GRP.
that cross frame I have but now need some ramps to get under it to do that as well.

the one I have ordered is this one. But a bit cheaper from another seller hence no bolts.

Ah yeah , your quite correct , i missed that . Back ones are the same thread and length as the front , the holes do need some finding though . I've only just found your reply , and it's a bit dark outside now . So tomorrow i'll get my David Bailey hat on , and photograph them . Should find them easy enough then . I didn't need any ramps for the cross member (eh , yeah been there too , sorry) , though i did use a jack to support it while i engaged the bolts . I torqued them up to 30 nm , before you ask . I couldn't find the correct setting anywhere , so i went for the middle figure of a standard setting for those size bolt's .
I do lift the van to get the tray under , only one side though , and not enough to aviate the wheel . As soon as it's under i lower it again , there is enough room once it's under there , just not enough to get it under there . Be careful , that under tray is an unwieldy bugger , it's big and heavy , and a right pain to handle , but it's worth every penny , with all the work it saves you . Personally i use a scissor jack with a big lump of wood on top , to lift it into position . You only have to lift it once , onto the jack , then wind it up ready for bolting . Don't forget to remove the front bumper bolts either .

Oh , and it don't matter where you source the belly pan from , the bolts are not supplied . When i got mine , i found the front bolts already in place on the cross member , the others i just had lying around . You ent seen my garage have ya , up until recently i had 6 motorbikes in there ! . But even now there are various bits of car , bits of boat , a motorbike , and 2 hang gliders in there .

Eh , just had a quick look at that link mate , you do realise it's coming from Poland , don't ya ? . It's not gonna come this week either , be late next , maybe week after . But i notice it does come with bolts , strangely nuts too . Not sure what you need them for , unless their the wrong bolts .
 
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No the link was wrong I tried to find the right one
it’s arriving this morning from. Bison Parts in Sheffield.
slightly different to the link see image three.
Image three shows the four bolts in the front
three in the back and one either side at the top.

having now had another look it seems that there are four star bolts approx m4 or five that go to the front of the crossbar and that’s where the bumper is fixed . That’s the readied welded on nuts. Image one..

a little to the rear of the crossbar there are another four bolt holes threaded not sure what size they are .
and the cover has another three holes in the back I would assume there the same size bolts.
as it so happens there is a lonely bolt where the plastic cover was removed hope it’s the right one I should be able to size it when I start the crossmember
I have yet to see.
 

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The tray has arrived. A total plus vat and postage £48.00
pleased with that amount.

the hole locations are as I said
image one shows front holes and cut outs for the bumper bolts to the crossmember.

image. Two the rear section shows three hole locations.

image three shows smaller bolts holes . To the sides.

there are two removable panels to the underside I was hoping I would not have to remove the cover to do the basics like oil change.
 

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The tray has arrived. A total plus vat and postage £48.00
pleased with that amount.
Well that is good news , i think that's pretty much what i paid for mine , but it was a while ago .

Okay , so i'm gonna be honest here , when i first saw your post (number 7) this morning , it left me feeling very confused . I couldn't think of any part of mine that even vaguely match those pictures , and i thought you had ordered the wrong part ! . However , i see now , you've since edited that post , and better yet added another picture , which is spot on . And now it has arrived (post 8) , those new pictures match everything on mine , just goes to show , they may be worth a thousand words , but they can also cause a lot of damage .


Picture one , the front cross member . Quite straight DSC_0000562.jpg forward this one . Viewed from the front nearside , it's the back hole of the two , the front one is a drain hole . Now you should note my bumper attachment is different to yours , because it's an A class . The bumper is actually removed , and sitting inside the van right now . Having been repaired , it's now in the process of being painted . It bolts under the belly pan using the same holes and bolts (the outer two) . If you blow the picture up you will see a bracket is also attached to the cross member . This is not an original part , i fitted it , and it attaches via the three bolts , which secure the cross member . While we are on this subject , i would advise a close inspection of the other attachment point of the cross member , on the off side . I'm not trying to find you more work , but this is a common rot area of these van's . I've just dealt with it on mine , but i will add , it was not visible from underneath . I found mine by accident after removing the inner wing .

Picture two , now this is the first of the rear mountings ,DSC_0000565.jpg Again it is of the nearside , and i made a mistake here . It is to the front of the subframe directly above the nearside drive shaft coupling with the gearbox . Again , here there are two holes , and interestingly there are two nuts welded to the sub frame , it is the front hole , so the one nearest the camera .

Now i've goofed with picture three , proof reading this i discovered it was another view of picture two . It's dark outside right now , so i'll sort that out tomorrow , and post it .

Picture four , again quite an easy one to find .DSC_0000569.jpg It's directly above the drive shaft , just behind the sump . There's only one hole here , so no way can it be confused . Again this was taken from under the engine , but looking to the off side .

Dam missed one .

Okay sorted now . Picture five ,DSC_0000574.jpg A bit difficult to see at this angle . But this is of the nearside main chassis member behind the front wheel . Next to the gearbox , there is a hole , just slightly low and left of the centre of this picture . Well if you look just in front , above in the picture that you can just see a bracket . This bracket should have a stud fitted , to which the smaller hole you mention in your post should pass through the belly pan , holding it in place with a washer , and nut . However , as you can see , the stud on mine has seared , annoyingly both sides . I may sort this at some point , but frankly , it don't seem to need it , so it's not an urgent repair .

Final bit is the bolts , they are flanged m10 , 30 mm , standard tread . You can use non flanged bolts , but you will need a washer . Personally i would recommend both . I can't remember what the nut is , i'm sure you can figure out the reason .

The access panels you mention , are placed over the sump drain and oil filter , but frankly i don't use them . I mentioned before , that my sump actually touches the pan , well my feelings are , if i did remove them , i probably wouldn't be able to refit them . Also , i only remove the belly pan twice a year anyway . Once at the beginning of the year , and once at the end for servicing , and leaving it off for the mot inspection . The inspector often allows me under the van , while it's up on the ramps , so i can do my own inspection . He also knows , i'm not afraid to point out something , i don't like , which may have been something he actually missed . To be honest , i think i'm more critical than he is .

Now i'm gonna be honest here , this thing is unwieldy , but at the same time , my van has undergone quite major work , of which some is a directly result of the original pan being missing . Critical parts have been found seized , and parts replaced , which for a vehicle of this mileage (47000) should not have been . My starter motor still shows this wear , and i have concerns regarding the vacuum pump . It's current condition is work is almost complete , and the vehicle will return for road use , next year . These pictures show only some of this , i've also advised on a second issue you have , so i've included the last picture in light of this . That's also almost complete .
DSC_0000563.jpg DSC_0000572.jpgDSC_0000561.jpg
 

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Wow thanks for the information I will get the bolts and washers tomorrow if there open if not as soon as they do open.

when the weather stops raining or drizzling I will get to remove the old lower front crossmember and fit the new one.
a coat of waxoil inside it and on the top part before i connect the bumper.

then there are other jobs that I have to put right before i Get to fitting the underside cover.

silly bits like replacing the brake. springs (on order now. )

then some work to the front off side wheel arch tear out a GRP patch and prep and weld in a new section.under seal both front wheel arches more waxoil then we’re good to fit the cover.

unless I can see something else that needs doing.

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Informative post thanks.
Now I have to decide if I need one of these ???
 
Informative post thanks.
Now I have to decide if I need one of these ???
The main problem seems to be the quality and thickness of some of the underside steel components

for example the oil sumps are made of a lot thinner steel than they used to be.
hence road salt alone will take its toll.

the plastic under engine cover just like any of the plastic covers on the top of your engine are there for a reason.



 
weather stops raining or drizzling
Yeah we got that problem here too .
The front crossmember is relatively easy , well at least i found it so . Both my radiator , and intercooler were removed due to work i was already doing on the cooling system . But it should be possible to do the job with these in place . They are bolted up top , and held in place by pins at the bottom , which are themselves fitted in rubber grommets . Be aware these can drop off as well , they are only a push fit . I think , i would be inclined to drain the rad , there is a drain plug on the radiator . Looking into the engine bay from the front of the vehicle , on the left hand side , next to the intercooler . There's no issues with the latter . it's basically just full of air .
Watch your wiring to the starter motor , it's also attached to this part , along with the cooling fan wiring . The cable clips can be opened , and even removed from the cross member . To open , push the two tabs together , then twist . To remove , look inside the clip , when it's open , above were it pushes into the chassis , you should see , what looks like a circular moulding tab . Get a small drift and push on that tab , you will need to push it all the way through . The clip will become loose , so just gently pull it out . The down side is this pin , you will lose it . I got over this by getting some plastic rod , ha ha , guess where ? , and using that .
I was warned while searching for the torque setting , that the chassis may spread , but frankly mine didn't , and it was removed for nearly 8 months . When i refitted the cross arm , i greased the bottom of the chassis , placed the arm in place and held it in place with a jack , greased the bolts and fitted . Torqued them to 30nm , there is a 35 limit with bolts of this size , but as i greased them , you can't torque to the maximum . I used a cavity wax , soaked the dam thing , but then i did the same inside chassis rails as well .

I can relate to the something else too . I'm getting ready to do battle with the power steering , last thing on the mechanical list . Got all the bits , minus one , it's a no longer available part . So that's gonna be fun .
 
The good news with all these little jobs is that when there done you know there done right.
also while this goes on all the other stuff is checked and replaced at the same time.
we are in no rush to get the works completed but as we just about have all the stuff we now require we’re
just waiting for a bit Better weather..

we could be finished by mid to the end of March 2022. With any luck…

in the meanwhile we are on with some of the interior cushions and panels renewing everything curtains included.
so the inside is a little stark with just about everything removed. But all in hand.
except the cab seats they had to go to an auto trimmers as there a tight fit and into be honest think if I did them they could have looked a little rough.

we’re ok with everything else as we have done quite a bit of this work in the past. It’s a boat thing..
We have been making other bits for when we’re on the off.

the old stuff image 1 had seen better days
 

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If anybody wants to pick one up foc
I have one out back from my old 99 A class francia
2.5 Ducato based probably have the bolts in the man cave as well just never refitted after oil seal change and the new owner didn't want it .

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The good news with all these little jobs is that when there done you know there done right.
Exactly my sentiments .

I've decimated my to do list , one thing i can thank covid for , but now , I'm so far ahead , i may need a map to get back . It's well in to preventive maintenance , but man have i spent some dosh . And this van is finally worth what i paid for it , cause it certainly wasn't when i brought it . It's taught me an awful lot , about an intercooled engine .

I did this with an even older car , and still use that every day . It's proved ridiculously reliable , despite being 28 next year . Flies through the mot , and still does 72 mpg , with emissions a fraction of its allowed maximum . It was this thing that taught me about diesel engines .

Oh , and i started with boats too , strange that !
 
I was hoping to do something on the money pit but as I have a broken thumb first metacarpal.

still very awkward to do anything but should healed by the end on January in the meanwhile it’s just the silly little bits that I am doing. Like prep work for other works.
pulling through cables for the rev and front cameras .

carpet stops around the bottom of the gas
heater and lots of other bits still will get to start it and then keep going instead of half an hour here and there.

good news.
All the bits to finish the tasks will be here so at least I will not have to keep stopping and starting.
so it’s spend spend and spend some more time now.
 
I have a broken thumb first metacarpal.
Oh god , so how the hell did you manage that ? . I'm sure it is awkward , i've been there , when i had a similar incident 40 odd years ago . I broke both legs in a motorcycle accident , and put myself in hospital for 4 weeks . Wasn't too bad in hospital , as the nurses were always up for a laugh , but when i got home , i became bored rather quickly . To relieve that , i decided to repair my motorbike , very difficult when your still walking on crutches , but i managed . Not that there was much wrong anyway , new indicator , straighten the foot pegs , new battery . However , once done , i tried to move it , only to discover the front brake had seized . Dealing with that , i decided i had better test it . So i got my helmet , propped my crutches against the shed , and pushed the bike out of the garden . Kick starting was difficult , but again i managed it , and off i rode . About 2 miles worth of around the block . Not what you would call a comfortable ride , with one leg in plaster , not a usual cast , this one had a hinge . The other was stiff , after having had a pin driven in , i couldn't get my feet on the foot pegs properly , but the can do attitude kicked in again and i managed . Never occurred to me , that if something happened , i wouldn't be able to get back . I couldn't walk without my crutches , and of course there was no such thing as mobile phones .
Ironically to make matters worse , i flew a plane 3 months after the accident . Not your usual bird , a microlight , i almost had to peel the doctor of the ceiling . I never told him i rode the motorbike 6 weeks after the accident .
You take your time , and count every little thing you manage to complete . This is just a temporary set back , and preparing other work is a good step forward . Having the bit's on hand is a huge advantage , that's exactly the reason some of my work has lagged behind .
However , here i will also offer a caution . I've been having a lot of problems , with the official Fiat parts lists , when ordering by vin number , or even registration . There can be several options on parts in certain places , and i've even had parts which were totally different to what my van actually has fitted ! . So be careful with the spend , eh .

And one final thing , mate . Don't call it a money pit either . I've also sunk a lot of money into mine (i would guess around 3 grand) . Can i suggest you read the last paragraph , of my last post again .
 
Broken thumb hit by a cricket bat while catching the ball.
it’s a grand kids thing. Still it will all be sorted soon.

I have noticed there again seems to be all sorts of different parts for the same make and the same year .

As for many parts
this is not new to me I seem to me I always seem to buy something that was updated or changed the same year.
but so far I guess I have been lucky with parts. 2003

as for the money pit well approx 1.5 k on material threads foam curtain material lining material
curtain tape cottons and some plywood
two front cab seats so far unknown cost but estimated in price.
Spray glue and a few other bits.carpets underlay Yes underlay.
seems it’s going to be a home from home..
all the other mechanical and electrical bits again a little over 1.5 k. So 3 k already.
and also camp stuff and that list is getting just about done now.
outstanding to buy.

one more solar panel
one pair of reg plates.
one inflatable awning and matting. Personal choice.
a single wire for the reversing cam. And that’s another story.
one more roll of self amalgamating tape.
bumper plastic primers and top coat approx 2. 1/2 ltrs with all the thinners and a spray gun.
two more tubes of Sikaflex.
masking tape

and that as far as I can see is it.
at the moment. There will I guess be a few more bits but either way it should all be done soon and back on the road.
 
all sorts of different parts for the same make and the same year .
Hmmm , maybe you should lay off the Ian Botham impersonation then , mate . I repaired much quicker when i was younger , but i'm not quite so quick now .
Yep , i first came across it , while doing my cooling system , with a heater pipe . I ended up sourcing the part from Poland . Then i found there were two sets of pipes for the oil cooler . Right now , i'm struggling to source a power steering pipe , i already know the part listed don't fit . I've got one here , and it came from Germany !
It's this kind of thing that , slows work to a crawl .
So far , the cooling system is totally new , and actually , not only finished , but wet as well . Timing system has been rebuilt , including a new belt . Along with a new charging system , also fitted with a new belt . Windscreen washers , air induction , and crankcase breather have all been overhauled . Front bumper , and spats repaired , presently undergoing refinishing . Offside front chassis rail welded , and complete front chassis respray . Front chassis member removed , painted , and refitted . Engine bay has had various work done , brackets , and battery tray resprayed , various plastic engine panels , and cooling fan cases have been refinished , plus several bodges removed . Front inner wings removed , repaired and refitted , and the horn upgraded to new dual , dual tone . Wiring repaired and rerun , multiple earths cleaned . Both headlights replaced , and work to the front indicators , after a manufacturing issue was found . Found another in the charging system , that i've also put right . Full dashboard wiring inspection , redundant wiring removed , bodges put right , and of course media centre fitment . Following an inspection of the power steering , i found significant corrosion on three metal pipes , meaning a full rebuild here is also in progress . You maybe interested to learn , i consider that this maybe a direct result of the belly pan missing , along with an issues found in the charging system , and also possibly one in the timing .
The engine is running , but the van is still not road worthy . I still have some body work to refinish , new mirrors both sides to fit , and a significant amount of work including electrical work on the rear . I do intend having the vehicle back on the road later this year . The vehicle is being prepared for an extended trip to Spain , to visit a friend whose wife died just before covid kicked off . I'm now pretty confident it will make the trip , as the van is almost where i want it . Everything has been checked , and all the nasty bits junked .

I don't think underlay on the floor is an extravagance , personally i think it's a very good way to insulate the floor . I'd probably have done the same thing , though likely with a layer of varnished cork to protect the underlay from the floor . I'll be honest here , i had bigger plans for my van , when i first purchased it , but my plans were brought into question soon after . Recent events over the last year , or so have escalated this , to a point such , it's now more likely i'll , begin to deviate from that path towards the Autumn . So frankly , i don't plan on adding anything more to the van . Anything i do add , will have a dual purpose . I enjoy putting vehicles right , but as old age , and retirement beckons , i should be planning more in that direction . Regretfully , the van is not part of that future .

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My Pilote came with the belly pan fitted. MOT history over some years stated unable to check engine area as cover fitted. It was in a rather tatty state so I removed it. Than found many parts hidden by the cover were corroded including the power steering pipes and the front crossmember severely corroded. Not sure if these belly pans are such a good idea. I think they were fitted in an attempt to reduce noise rather than protect anything. May reduce drag a little but irrelevant on a motorhome.
 
Before the underside engine cover goes on it will be getting a good coat of waxoil.
inner wings and whatever does not get hot.

the crossmember will also be getting a good coat as well and the inside of it. As and when I get to fit it..
the crossmember as it is has been or an attempt to GRP it. Sadly wrong resin and it’s starting to peel off. That’s how I saw it
apart from it coming up on the advisers for the mot year after year.

it would have been easy to have just replaced it.
so any work that needs doing is underway.

as for other works that’s another posting.
 
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Before the underside engine cover goes on it will be getting a good coat of waxoil.
Be careful with that one . I used to spray the brake lines on my old van with WD40 to prevent corrosion . On one occasion it got picked up during an mot , as a potential leak . I explained what it was , and got away with it because the examiner knew me . I now use a different pipe , which is mixed with nickel , and so less likely to corrode . The result is i don't use this practice any more . Brake pipes on my car are 9 years old , yet the pipe looks new . The down side is it cost twice as much .
 
I was thinking may some sort of sign screwed underside stating wax oiled don’t know if this is worth thinking about
 
corroded including the power steering pipes
Normally i would agree with that statement , however in this circumstance , i can't . Even allowing for the fact , a vehicle will deteriorate , just stood still (and my van is twenty years old) , what i've found , i would expect on a high mileage vehicle . My vehicle has not even covered 50.000 miles yet . So in this circumstance , i would conclude this as accelerated deterioration .

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I can see why it has an engine protector now I had half a protector fitted but I think it was one cut in halve because the bolts were solid .

well now that’s removed i can very clearly see the fan belt it’s not the timing belt but it would be open to all sorts of water mud stones and grit.

new vans I have been told have them fitted.

my car has a metal engine cover plate on the underside.
The fiat ducato ll. I would have much rather have had a metal one but can’t find any..
still so long as I waxoil the removable panel screws all should be o.k.
 
2017 model Rapido only has one side fitted no threaded inserts on other sides. Was an option to convertors.
 

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