Fiat Ducato 1999 decato stopped?!?

albouy

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Hi guys, I'm broken down and having to stay the night on a supermarket car park. Can anyone help me??? My van is a Fiat Ducato 1999 1.9 . The front end is completely dead. Got power for the back. Batteries are good. I would like to know how to get to the relays because there has been various "clickings" from the passenger side. I'm guessing they are under the fuses, if so, how do I get access them. Also, the van has some sort of card security system... maybe that has been compromised...if a code or card is necessary, I don't have it. Can you help please?
 
Sorry cant help but posibly try putting in the title urgent help needed
 
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Many electrical problems with the Fiat Ducato vans seem to be caused by a poor earth connection , have you got a jump lead that you can use to try a connection from the battery earth (-) to the engine , if that does not help try the same thing from the battery earth to the body/chassis (this is to by-pass a possible earth lead problem). Also check that the battery + terminal is not loose
 
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Very good advice regarding engine to chassis body earthing straps. I had to replace my original Fiat Ducato (X250 - 2011) strap which physically looked OK but had failed under the crimped ends. Had a custom made replacement made (while you wait) (slightly longer) by a proper Motor Factors. The other intermmitent connection maybe the Main Battery negative quick release clamp (if fitted) on the battery post. Mine failed in a single track entry/exit to a busy camp site!!
The other advice is to find out every type and size of fuse in your Ducato + Habitation area accessories and buy spares to store and carry in a transparent clip top container.

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Just seen this thread,yes check the earth straps are not corroded .clean up the ends and reseat or fit a new earth strap.

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Won't hurt to add extra earth between gearbox and body and battery to engine block. Several mysterious electric problems in my 1999 2.5 disappeared after doing this.
 
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Hi guys, I'm broken down and having to stay the night on a supermarket car park. Can anyone help me??? My van is a Fiat Ducato 1999 1.9 . The front end is completely dead. Got power for the back. Batteries are good. I would like to know how to get to the relays because there has been various "clickings" from the passenger side. I'm guessing they are under the fuses, if so, how do I get access them. Also, the van has some sort of card security system... maybe that has been compromised...if a code or card is necessary, I don't have it. Can you help please?
It
 
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Thanks all for taking the time to reply. i gave the cables behind the battery a jiggle! it started so that's good. on the dashboard the yellow warning light with the 'key' sign on was lit. dos not normally light. it stayed on until the next engine start then it extinguished...i dont have the code anyway. if you have any info on this yellow light, let me know. thanks again.

ps. i don't think i have an ecu!

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If the light has gone out ,I wouldn't worry about it .For the cables that you wriggled ,just make sure they are all tight on the battery and where they are connected too otherwise you may be generating a few sparks if they are not connected correctly.
 
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Thanks all for taking the time to reply. i gave the cables behind the battery a jiggle! it started so that's good. on the dashboard the yellow warning light with the 'key' sign on was lit. dos not normally light. it stayed on until the next engine start then it extinguished...i dont have the code anyway. if you have any info on this yellow light, let me know. thanks again.

ps. i don't think i have an ecu!
Keep an eye on the key symbol. If it doesn't stay in again or is only just very occasionally on (running self diagnostic) it's okay. Otherwise it will need bypassing and essentially cutting out! I had to with my 1999 2.5tdi and it was easy but also scary to take a scalpel and pliers to a plastic tamperproof box!
 
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Wow...did it give you problems? And running a diagnostic???Do I have one at this age (not mine, the van🤭)..
W.here is the box for the key disablement and I'll get snipping...good talking with you.
 
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Sounds like the usual immobiliser fault with vans of that age range
 
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Wow...did it give you problems? And running a diagnostic???Do I have one at this age (not mine, the van🤭)..
W.here is the box for the key disablement and I'll get snipping...good talking with you.
Almost certainly you do not have a modern OBD diagnostic port. There is a 3 wire connection somewhere under bonnet and adaptors available but it gives you very very little info even when it works. The immobiliser consists of transponder in keys, aerial ring around ignition key barrel, yellow box behind dash (in front of your right knee in a UK spec vehicle), this sends three wires down to a module bonded to your fuel pump (stand in front of engine and look down and left of centre between radiator and engine block), inside the module there is a small PCB with three wires soldered, this PCB is buried in a jelly. On the other side is a single wire to provide Positive power connection to the fuel pump. If you have a RED key then don't use it routinely for starting and driving. It is like a master key and when used properly can program additional keys (or correct ones that go out of sync).
The fault ususally starts with Key Code light coming on and stying on after starting or randomly coming on when driving. Typicaly if the light comes on when driving you can stop, turn ignition off and try to start again (imagine you just paid for fuel etc...) and then it simply won't extinguish the Key Code symbol and engine will turn but not fire as it has no fuel pump running. Pulling negative off main battery for 30 seconds and refitting sometimes temporarily clears the fault.
I tried aerial, leads, new earth for yellow box and in engine bay but problem got worse and worse.

Message me if you want the nitty gritty of how to actually cut out the system. I was helped over email by another Funster (Vanbitz Eddie) Or you can buy a fuel pump MINUS the module and the fuel pump just gets wired into a suitable 12V circuit instead. I still have some pictures I think.

It s a simple immobiliser and when it works is a great security device. Once I disarmed my Key Code system (and the light on dash) I wired in my own hidden kill switch. So if you were to jump in my old van and try to start it it will spin but not fire until you flick a secret switch. Probably harder for a thief to fathom out than an official system.

AFTER SURGERY........

1642849894273.png


The other side of a similar unmolested PCB and holder....

1642849967583.png

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It's all a learning curve though. There is always something new going wrong and all we can do is eliminate the most obvious problems first.
If you have the money ,it's easier just to drop the problems off at a garage but for most of us we need to get it sorted and I often find the experience of others with similar vehicles is very helpful. IMO older vehicles are easier to fix, being mechanical. Newer vehicles are a nightmare ,there are too many electrical/ computerised parts.
It's just like one of the latest posts ,no dipstick for the oil, it's all computerised. What's that all about .:unsure:o_O
 
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To Jev88.....that is great info, really interesting and I guess I'll need your nitty gritty offer!
To Jimbohorllics.....I laughed because I feel the same way..."What...No dipstick!" Its great to hear your info because my van is "mature" but great fun and I'm learning something new about it nearly every day. I like its age because its fairly simple...WITH a dipstick! (and it's not me)
 
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Almost certainly you do not have a modern OBD diagnostic port. There is a 3 wire connection somewhere under bonnet and adaptors available but it gives you very very little info even when it works. The immobiliser consists of transponder in keys, aerial ring around ignition key barrel, yellow box behind dash (in front of your right knee in a UK spec vehicle), this sends three wires down to a module bonded to your fuel pump (stand in front of engine and look down and left of centre between radiator and engine block), inside the module there is a small PCB with three wires soldered, this PCB is buried in a jelly. On the other side is a single wire to provide Positive power connection to the fuel pump. If you have a RED key then don't use it routinely for starting and driving. It is like a master key and when used properly can program additional keys (or correct ones that go out of sync).
The fault ususally starts with Key Code light coming on and stying on after starting or randomly coming on when driving. Typicaly if the light comes on when driving you can stop, turn ignition off and try to start again (imagine you just paid for fuel etc...) and then it simply won't extinguish the Key Code symbol and engine will turn but not fire as it has no fuel pump running. Pulling negative off main battery for 30 seconds and refitting sometimes temporarily clears the fault.
I tried aerial, leads, new earth for yellow box and in engine bay but problem got worse and worse.

Message me if you want the nitty gritty of how to actually cut out the system. I was helped over email by another Funster (Vanbitz Eddie) Or you can buy a fuel pump MINUS the module and the fuel pump just gets wired into a suitable 12V circuit instead. I still have some pictures I think.

It s a simple immobiliser and when it works is a great security device. Once I disarmed my Key Code system (and the light on dash) I wired in my own hidden kill switch. So if you were to jump in my old van and try to start it it will spin but not fire until you flick a secret switch. Probably harder for a thief to fathom out than an official system.

AFTER SURGERY........

View attachment 578119

The other side of a similar unmolested PCB and holder....

View attachment 578120
Hi Jev88 I hope you are still a member and can send me nitty gritty info on how to bypass this on my 1999 Fiat Ducato Motorhome, I already have a separate immobiliser but this key code one has just started playing up yesterday
 
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