Electric Hook Up Lead Plug - Is This A Problem?

[KD]

We have noticed that there is now a gap between the cable sleeve and the plug:

It has not been pulled hard to our knowledge, so don't know how this has happened. The inside looks like this after unscrewing the grey end:

I'm assuming that the clamp is supposed to go around the sleeve? Can't take it back to the shop (well over a year old). Do we need to do something about this (I am guessing yes), and if so what? I'm not sure whether it is as simple as undoing the clamp, and pushing in the inner cables so they squish up a bit, and then clamping around the sleeve, or something more drastic?

 

[Gaston aires]

I would re fit the cables so they are not exposed by shortening them. They are not supposed to be exposed like that. Clamp the orange outer cover.
Phil

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

Move the clamp off the separate wires to the section that is covered by the orange outer sleeve and tuck the cables back into the housing and fasten it back up as you suggested.

 

[PaulOH]

As per advice given - the yellow sleeve should be being gripped by that internal clamp. If the wires fit, loosen and move the sleeve back to retighten?

 

[Kannon Fodda]

Outer orange sheath should have been within clamp.

Now it has pulled back the 3 wires will be too long even if the clamp is refitted and probably won't squeeze into the housing.

You will need a wire stripper to shorten the 3 inner wires and then refitted to the plug, and adjust the outer clamp.

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[Reallyretired]

Definitely shorten the wires and clamp the outer. The earth connection looks like its pulling out of the connector too.
If you can wire a plug it's a simple job.

 

[MisterB]

I would take that white towel/cloth back definitely as it seems to have turned orange ..

 

[Widge]

We have noticed that there is now a gap between the cable sleeve and the plug:

View attachment 733884

It has not been pulled hard to our knowledge, so don't know how this has happened. The inside looks like this after unscrewing the grey end:

View attachment 733885

I'm assuming that the clamp is supposed to go around the sleeve? Can't take it back to the shop (well over a year old). Do we need to do something about this (I am guessing yes), and if so what? I'm not sure whether it is as simple as undoing the clamp, and pushing in the inner cables so they squish up a bit, and then clamping around the sleeve, or something more drastic?

I was always taught to keep the live (brown) short, the neutral (blue) slightly longer, and earth (green/yellow) the longest, as long as you have space to accommodate the slack.
That way if the cable does get pulled hard, it is the live that pulls out first disconnecting the circuit from the power while still having the neutral then finaly the earth still connected hopefully keeping you and your equipment safe.

 

[Capitanjohn]

push the outer cable in the grommet to lessen the chance of damp getting in.

 

[autorouter]

Once you've got the sheath back in the cable clamp and it's all secure, there's another consideration. These plugs are supposed to be weatherproof. IP44 = proof against splashes from any direction, it's written on the plug. I guess the cable sheath is a tight fit in the hole, so water can't get in easily. If it's not, there should be at least a rubber grommet or a clamp.

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[Just smiffy]

Guys… if the op is asking this question then they may not be confident to re-wire it…
If that’s the case I would advise them to seek out a friend who could do it for you or a camping shop or dare I say a dealer will probably do it for you for a small charge….

 

[Widge]

I was always taught to keep the live (brown) short, the neutral (blue) slightly longer, and earth (green/yellow) the longest, as long as you have space to accommodate the slack.
That way if the cable does get pulled hard, it is the live that pulls out first disconnecting the circuit from the power while still having the neutral then finaly the earth still connected hopefully keeping you and your equipment safe.

Here is an image showing this technique on a standard 13A plug, but it is good practice on any power connection.

 

[Reallyretired]

If in doubt find an elderly neighbour. In my young days nothing electrical came with a plug on. You always had to fit your own this was because there wasn't a single plug type. Might have needed a 5A round 3 pin, a 15A round 3 pin, a 5A 2 pin, square 13A 3 pin or even a bayonet plug.

 

[gus-lopez]

it is as simple as undoing the clamp, and pushing in the inner cables so they squish up a bit, and then clamping around the sleeve, or something more drastic?

This ^^^^^^

 

[Widge]

If in doubt find an elderly neighbour. In my young days nothing electrical came with a plug on. You always had to fit your own this was because there wasn't a single plug type. Might have needed a 5A round 3 pin, a 15A round 3 pin, a 5A 2 pin, square 13A 3 pin or even a bayonet plug.

The most stupid thing (and I believe still the case) all 13A plugs that you buy, come with a 13A fuse, 90% of things that you want to fit it to, should have 3, 5 or 10A, fuses, but who (Including me) ever bother to change it. I think plugs ought to come without a fuse installed, but come with a free fuse of your choice.

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[Tombola]

The most stupid thing (and I believe still the case) all 13A plugs that you buy, come with a 13A fuse, 90% of things that you want to fit it to, should have 3, 5 or 10A, fuses, but who (Including me) ever bother to change it. I think plugs ought to come without a fuse installed, but come with a free fuse of your choice.

Good point....I thought the fuse is to protect the cable and damage from the ring main and most cables supplied on appliances in the UK are supplied rated for 13amp fuses. Though granted, most smaller appliances would only need smaller power draw.

 

[Widge]

The fuse is primarily there for fire safety, if a fault appears in an item, and it draws more that the expected amount of current, the fuse should blow. If you use an over rated fuse, the fault could cause more damage to the item, even causing it to catch fire without exceeding 13A.

 

[VXman]

delete

 

[VXman]

The most stupid thing (and I believe still the case) all 13A plugs that you buy, come with a 13A fuse, 90% of things that you want to fit it to, should have 3, 5 or 10A, fuses, but who (Including me) ever bother to change it. I think plugs ought to come without a fuse installed, but come with a free fuse of your choice.

The fuse is primarily there for fire safety, if a fault appears in an item, and it draws more that the expected amount of current, the fuse should blow. If you use an over rated fuse, the fault could cause more damage to the item, even causing it to catch fire without exceeding 13A.

Except for many years appliances have come with a sealed plug attached and fuse to match the appliance already in the plug. Can you even buy plugs nowadays?

My vacuum cleaner stopped working recently and I worked out the cable was damaged near the plug. I chopped the cable off an then had to route around my garage for an old plug that I had taken of a dead fridge.

 

[gus-lopez]

Can you even buy plugs nowadays?

I have a tin with 60+ in along with various other 2 & 3 way adaptors that I have replaced with spanish plugs . All available at hugely extortionate rates if you can't buy them now a moderate price
I am proposing to unload them all + assorted other tat give them to my daughter this summer when in the UK

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[autorouter]

Except for many years appliances have come with a sealed plug attached and fuse to match the appliance already in the plug. Can you even buy plugs nowadays?

The sealed plug is in fact a moulded plug, and there will before a way to take out and replace the fuse. Probably have to lever it out with a small screwdriver. Appliances with a UK plug need a fuse, and it should be user replaceable

 

[Reallyretired]

Perhaps I am obsessive but I do replace the fuse with a 3A or 5A as needed. Most plugs I fit are recycled ones off dead appliances, but you can buy them.
Fuses are very cheap especially bought in bulk.

 

[VXman]

The sealed plug is in fact a moulded plug, and there will before a way to take out and replace the fuse. Probably have to lever it out with a small screwdriver. Appliances with a UK plug need a fuse, and it should be user replaceable

Apologies for using the wrong terminology (just couldn't think of the correct term at the time) - and the rest is pretty obvious.

 

[ctc]

I was always taught to keep the live (brown) short, the neutral (blue) slightly longer, and earth (green/yellow) the longest, as long as you have space to accommodate the slack.
That way if the cable does get pulled hard, it is the live that pulls out first disconnecting the circuit from the power while still having the neutral then finaly the earth still connected hopefully keeping you and your equipment safe.

I was taught the same when I was an apprentice but now it's frowned upon mainly by people who don't understand safety.

 

[steve69]

I always remember that Blue rhymes with New-tral.

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[Nirvanauk]

If in doubt find an elderly neighbour. In my young days nothing electrical came with a plug on. You always had to fit your own this was because there wasn't a single plug type. Might have needed a 5A round 3 pin, a 15A round 3 pin, a 5A 2 pin, square 13A 3 pin or even a bayonet plug.

Gosh, you must be as old as me.

 

[Widge]

Except for many years appliances have come with a sealed plug attached and fuse to match the appliance already in the plug. Can you even buy plugs nowadays?

My vacuum cleaner stopped working recently and I worked out the cable was damaged near the plug. I chopped the cable off an then had to route around my garage for an old plug that I had taken of a dead fridge.

I haven't lived in the UK for 17 years so i am a bit out of date regarding UK plug availability.

 

[KD]

Hi all, many thanks to those who replied to my original question. Whilst everybody agreed that the orange sleeve needs to be in the clamp, there seemed to be a split opinion between squishing the rest inside the plug, and cutting down the inner wires. The first option seems to have worked fine, so I have gone with that.

 

[Mzracer]

The first option seems to have worked fine, so I have gone with that.

You will be fine with that option. don't worry.

 

[KD]

Once you've got the sheath back in the cable clamp and it's all secure, there's another consideration. These plugs are supposed to be weatherproof. IP44 = proof against splashes from any direction, it's written on the plug. I guess the cable sheath is a tight fit in the hole, so water can't get in easily. If it's not, there should be at least a rubber grommet or a clamp.

Yes, the plug is tight around the orange sleeve now.

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