Dunlop kit , What screws to fit the gauge ?

Apache

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The first part has arrived , the pressure gauge which goes in the footwell and it looks like quality gear from Marcle . But there are no screws supplied with it and as the main kit is coming direct from Dunlop I’m not expecting any to be supplied with it.
So , what have any of you guys used to attach the air gauge to the footwell , self tappers , countersink headed bolts or what ?

Regards Apache
 
Bolts best if you have access to other side, a nutplate would be even better. Most folk would just use self tappers as gauge not likely yo be removed very often. Put a blob of paint on the hole to deter rust and screw it in. I am one of most folk.
 
Haven’t had a look yet so not sure what is behind. I’ll use stainless bolts but not sure what length I need yet .
 
Plenty of people on here swear by Sikaflex ??, me, I'd use Blutak, galvanised self tappers or rivnuts. I'd avoid stainless to prevent any bi-metallic corrosion if anything gets a bit damp.
 
You could use Command photo mounts by 3M then you can remove if any maintenance is required.

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I think that the gauge fits on the block which you turn the air off for each side
the block has two small turn lever's plus an inflate valve
 
Yes that’s correct monaco/frankia, maybe I should re-word it to say which screws to fix the block . Just been looking underneath and it’s not clear where I could screw through , there’s no obvious access to the the back of the step well so self tappers look like the way to go , but I’m concerned about what I might be screwing into.

dunnah 01 , TheTwoOfUs , I’m a bit belt and braces in my approach but having looked underneath it might have to be small self tappers and some sort of sticky assistance .
 
What about heavy duty Velcro. ?
 
I fitted my gauges to the seat base which is where EasyTop recommend.
I am not familiar with the Dunlop system but perhaps this is an option.
Be very careful if fitting to the step well with self tappers. I removed the step well when I was trying to find a route into the cab for the airlines. There is a wiring loom behind it. It is easy to remove the step well to have a look.
Regards
Ian
 

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If you intend screwing it to the plastic step panel, take the step panel out to drill it and either use suitable bolts or screws into a small block of wood stuck to the back of the panel. There is a gap between the plastic step panel and the metal panel behind it, with wiring looms, connectors and possibly even the odd ECU or two depending on the spec of your van. The last thing you want to be doing is screwing or drilling through any of that, or leaving sharp screw points exposed for cables to rub against.

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Plenty of people on here swear by Sikaflex ??, me, I'd use Blutak, galvanised self tappers or rivnuts. I'd avoid stainless to prevent any bi-metallic corrosion if anything gets a bit damp.
There's an obsession on the Forum regarding use of stainless. Yes there is a reaction between dissimilar metals (not limited to stainless) but unless brass (or aluminium if it's an aluminium gauge block) screws are used it's going to happen. Spray stainless fasteners with white grease before fitting (good practice anyway) and the problem is solved.
 
If it is this block Markle normally supply 2 wood screws. Personally i would use
2x4 or 5mm bolts with washers and nylock nuts. Mine still has the screws in it and i don't catch it with my foot and it has never comes loose but if it does i will fit bolts.
P.s. Deneb suggestion is spot on but no wiring behind on our 2016 Apache 634.
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ontheroadagain - thanks for that , it didn’t occur to me to use the seatbase.
Deneb- thanks.
tonyidle- I would/will do similar myself
Chris + Tracy - Yes that’s the one
 
Well my main kit arrived from Dunlop today and I’m really impressed with the quality of everything in it , unfortunately I still haven’t got any airline or cable ties ( I have loads of ties in my stock but if it’s supposed to be in the kit ...) I’ve contacted Marcle via the eBay listing and await a response .
 
Make sure that the airline fittings on the gauge manifold are for the same size pipe as those for the air bags as sometimes you need an adapter.
Also. When you have fitted everything and pressurised the system make sure that when the valves are turned off and you depress the filling point valve to decompress the gauge i.e. the gauge goes to zero make sure that it does not instantly go back to the system pressure because if it does then one or both of the valves are leaking and if the gauge blows then you will lose all pressure. Markle manifolds have a history of this from my personal experience. If they leak, pm me and i will explain how to cure the problem.

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Make sure that the airline fittings on the gauge manifold are for the same size pipe as those for the air bags as sometimes you need an adapter.
Also. When you have fitted everything and pressurised the system make sure that when the valves are turned off and you depress the filling point valve to decompress the gauge i.e. the gauge goes to zero make sure that it does not instantly go back to the system pressure because if it does then one or both of the valves are leaking and if the gauge blows then you will lose all pressure. Markle manifolds have a history of this from my personal experience. If they leak, pm me and i will explain how to cure the problem.
Ok thanks
 
Self tapping screws will be suffice just don't have them too long , I found the best place and easiest are was on the dash so I can alter pressures from the drivers seat
 

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Got an email this morning from Lyn the MD at Marcle Leisure to say she is very very sorry about the mistake with my airline and will send it out today on Guaranteed Next day delivery. Can’t say fairer than that.
 

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