Dometic AES RM 7 series power selection control.

JockandRita

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Since May 05 (Ex Tuggers).
As per the title, I have a problem with the power selection control on our Dometic AES RM7 series fridge/freezer.

It doesn't always operate on the 240v setting, but works fine on other settings.
Today, I removed the front control panel to access the module.

1603743854840.png


1603743926545.png


I gained access to the PCB to access the power selection control.

1603744166079.png


It would appear that the contacts inside are worn, making the selection of the 240v power source intermittent. :(

1603744251397.png

1603744365095.png


Does anyone know where I can source this power selection control? If I can get a hold of the control, I can have it soldered on to the PCB, rather than have to buy the whole module.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated. :)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
What an overly complicated switch - good luck
 
As per the title, I have a problem with the power selection control on our Dometic AES RM7 series fridge/freezer.

It doesn't always operate on the 240v setting, but works fine on other settings.
Today, I removed the front control panel to access the module.

View attachment 436403

View attachment 436404

I gained access to the PCB to access the power selection control.

View attachment 436405

It would appear that the contacts inside are worn, making the selection of the 240v power source intermittent. :(

View attachment 436408
View attachment 436409

Does anyone know where I can source this power selection control? If I can get a hold of the control, I can have it soldered on to the PCB, rather than have to buy the whole module.

Any help would be gratefully appreciated. :)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
Would it be possible to replace the contacts in the knob part with some copper of some sort ...?
 
Would it be possible to replace the contacts in the knob part with some copper of some sort ...?
Well beyond my skills Garry, unfortunately. :(

I once repaired a rear heated window on an old Peugeot 305 with copper contact paint, but that was easy peasy, lemon squeezy. :LOL:

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Well done for getting the switch out as as far as you have done thus far.(y)
If it were me, I would try and clean the contacts with a blast of RS Switch Cleaner Spray, also try and clean up the contacts with a small piece of emery paper. If you can try the switch functions without putting it all back together then great.
Have a quick looksee at the soldered connections to each component on the board near the switch, its not uncommon to find the odd dry joint near the switch as the board can flex slightly in some situations.
I somehow dont think you will find a new replacement switch, being Dometic everything is expensive and difficult to find components for.
Lastly does the FF work on the Auto Select Function, or if switched manually to 240V?, that would narrow down the fault somewhat also
Good Luck, hope thats works for you.
LES

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Last edited:
We had similar issues on ours (now replaced whole fridge) but by switching off and back to auto it always seemed to sort itself out 👍
 
If it were me, I would try and clean the contacts with a blast of RS Switch Cleaner Spray, also try and clean up the contacts with a small piece of emery paper. If you can try the switch functions without putting it all back together then great.
Thanks Les. Spraying with contact cleaner was the first thing I did, but not sure if it helped or not, hence stripping the control down. Each of the contacts right round to the right, from top to bottom, are definitely worn away. I have tried extending the two tiny copper springs a fraction inside the cap, to try and make better contact.
I did find a tiny metal contact in the base of the module unit, but it doesn't appear to have come from the face of the contacts............................however, it wasn't there before disassembling the control. :whatthe:

We had similar issues on ours (now replaced whole fridge) but by switching off and back to auto it always seemed to sort itself out 👍
Thanks David. On Thursday when I turned the FF on ready for chilling down, I turned it on to auto with the EHU already plugged in. I went back an hour layer to find that it was on 12v, with not enough solar output to have caused that. I had to switch over manually to EHU.
When we got to our destination on the auto setting, after a couple of hours, when the temperature was rising, it had failed to fire up on gas. With Tony outside and his ear to the bottom vent, I rotated the control back and forth a couple of times finishing on the gas setting, whereupon it fired up immediately. This indicated to me at the time, that it must be a contact problem within the control.

It is all back together, and working for now ie, lights displayed for each power source. :unsure: I didn't get finished until 19.00hrs last night, so this morning, I shall test it out properly for cooling function at each selection.

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Can you reduce the switch depth to make it sit on the panel a bit lower so to touch the contacts a bit tighter if iyswim ?
 
Can you reduce the switch depth to make it sit on the panel a bit lower so to touch the contacts a bit tighter if iyswim ?
I don't think so, but............

I have tried extending the two tiny copper springs a fraction inside the cap, to try and make better contact.


I'd have a word with these people who do repair things like that and may be able to point you in the right direction.👍
Yep, done that thanks, only to be told that they don't do fridge PCB repairs, and so wouldn't let me speak to a technician. :(

Cheers,

Jock. :)

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I'd look at places like the Radio Spares or Farnell sites. They have good PDFs with the switch details, so you can check if it fits. Suggested searches here and here. It should still exist... I hope ....

Cheers
 
Last edited:
Sorry, now fixed! Looks like a 4 position switch?
Cheers
 
I had a similar problem. There should be two small metal contacts that connect the outer ring to the inner. You don't seem to have them!! They will have dropped out when you spilt the switch.

Why not try this company on Ebay and see if they will repair it for you. fridge

good luck
Will

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This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Hi,
I had a problem with control panel. I stripped it down as you did. I priced up a new one which was £220.
I then contacted a Dometic Engineer who attended home address with spares including a spare PCB.
Changed panel and everything has worked since. Charged me £30 labour and £200 for panel.
PS price for new fridge was £2000 not fitted!!
Don’t give up on it like I nearly did.
Toady
 
I had a similar problem. There should be two small metal contacts that connect the outer ring to the inner. You don't seem to have them!! They will have dropped out when you spilt the switch.

Why not try this company on Ebay and see if they will repair it for you. fridge

good luck
Will
Thanks Will. 🙂 That might account for the tiny contact I found in the bottom of the module casing, ie, one of those you mentioned perhaps 😕
I don't suppose you took any photos of the open switch by any chance, showing the positioning of the contacts on the board side, and that of the two tiny copper springs on the switch side?

Hi,
I had a problem with control panel. I stripped it down as you did. I priced up a new one which was £220.
I then contacted a Dometic Engineer who attended home address with spares including a spare PCB.
Changed panel and everything has worked since. Charged me £30 labour and £200 for panel.
PS price for new fridge was £2000 not fitted!!
Don’t give up on it like I nearly did.
Toady
Thanks Toady. 🙂 That might well be the route I'll have to go down, if I can't sort it otherwise.

Cheers,

Jock. 🙂
 
This site contains affiliate links for which MHF may be compensated.
Although it looks like a fairly standard pcb mount rotary switch but for £40 to get it sorted and should be full tested. Even though I'm electronics by trade I think that is the route I would take.
 
Although it looks like a fairly standard pcb mount rotary switch but for £40 to get it sorted and should be full tested. Even though I'm electronics by trade I think that is the route I would take.
Thanks Lenny. :)
As soon as I can establish the exact model and serial numbers, I'll be on to that link willsd provided.
From the photo, you'll see the problem I've got. :(

1603799269601.png


I hope you are recovering better now that you are home. (y)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Is there a part number or any other i/d on the switch Jock?

I've had limited success in the past by taking a good clear image of the part and asking Google to search for the image.

If you Google "dometic spares - Grove Products" and look for the link below... (sorry cant give you a direct link as it is a .pdf document.)

20201027_115104.jpg


Click on this and there is a whole list of spares and compatible products. Might be worth sending them the images and asking them for ideas.

Good Luck.
Barry.

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Thanks Lenny. :)
As soon as I can establish the exact model and serial numbers, I'll be on to that link willsd provided.
From the photo, you'll see the problem I've got. :(

View attachment 436497

I hope you are recovering better now that you are home. (y)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
Have you got the instruction book as that normally has a sticker on it with all the info.

Will be home later today spent the night at BIL's.
Does feel better being back in the UK something I never thought I would never say.
 
This should give you an idea of the format on the Dometic plate - taken from RM7605L, circa 2008.
20201027_121248.jpg
 
This should give you an idea of the format on the Dometic plate - taken from RM7605L, circa 2008.
View attachment 436513
Thanks for the image. :) It has confirmed that ours is definitely an AES RM 7605L, Serial No 52900039.

There are a few sources in the EU for the PCB alone, but I am in touch with a UK supplier for the complete module, for around the same price, and just waiting for confirmation of model suitability.

I have made contact with the Ebay repairer as linked above, asking if they can source the control switch, and replace for me, and am awaiting there reply.

Is there a part number or any other i/d on the switch Jock?
Thanks Barry. :) I'll have a look the next time I have it all in bits again. A close up photo of the same on a replacement board (grey control on the left) just said "Made In Germany"

1603805823447.png


Just been out to the MH. It has been on EHU for a few hours, with Rita's Meds thermometer sensor in the freezer compartment for best results. Nothing, ie, absolute zilch in the way of results. :(
I unplugged and have switched over to auto, and although not as instant as usual, it has changed over to gas, with the burner operating a treat. I'll go out in an hour and check for results. It was the mains operation I was having intermittent problems with, over the last few months.

I don't know why I have that image.
Thanks Martin. (y)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
I have made contact with the Ebay repairer as linked above, asking if they can source the control switch, and replace for me, and am awaiting there reply.
Reply received. No, they cannot help me on this occasion. :( So, that's that option eliminated then. ;)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Thanks Lenny. :)
As soon as I can establish the exact model and serial numbers, I'll be on to that link willsd provided.
From the photo, you'll see the problem I've got. :(

View attachment 436497

I hope you are recovering better now that you are home. (y)

Cheers,

Jock. :)
Jock, I think it is a RM 7605L

the plate says it has a capacity of 142 L. There are only 2 on the list that have that capacity. The other is RM 7601L , and the fourth digit after RM looks like it has a rounded base
Elementary my dear Watson
04F89940-A907-468E-9CB7-6654E3E5F96A.png
 
Last edited:
Gerry I think it is a RM 7605L
Gerry? Who's Gerry? :whatthe: You were thinking of another Scot, possibly from Dumfries Chris. :LOL:

Please see my post at 13.44hrs preceded by Martin's two above, confirming the model........................but thanks for your efforts Sherlock. :LOL:

Just been out again to check the gas operation, and I got a reading of minus 3 degrees in less than an hour, so we still have a "useable" FF, if needed in the short term. (y)
Another UK source for the complete module has been found, so just waiting for a reply from both re model suitability.

Cheers,

Jock. :)
 
Last edited:
Gerry? Who's Gerry? :whatthe: You were thinking of another Scot, possibly from Dumfries Chris. :LOL:

Please see my post at 13.44hrs preceded by Martin's two above, confirming the model........................but thanks for your efforts Sherlock. :LOL:

Just been out again to check the gas operation, and I got a reading of minus 3 degrees in less than an hour, so we still have a "useable" FF, if needed in the short term. (y)
Another UK source for the complete module has been found, so just waiting for a reply from both re model suitability.

Cheers,

Jock. :)
No idea where calling you Gerry came from. Sorry Dave😄. I saw those but only after I posted, - was quite pleased with myself too! I hope you can get the part!

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