Change regulator

[RichardandKaren]

I think I may need to change my gas regulator. Is this an easy diy job? Never done anything involving gas before. My regulator is as per picture. I have found a direct replacement ( well actually it’s an auto changeover whereas my current one is a manual) on eBay for about £40.

 

[pappajohn]

Yes, pigtails are all on compression nuts.
After fitting the replacement and tightening all nuts pour a little dilute washing up liquid on the joints and look for bubbles.
Any bubbles retightwn and recheck.

 

[RichardandKaren]

Thanks Pappajohn. Will I need to put gas sealant paste or tape on the joints when re-sealing them to the new regulator?

 

[BuilderBob]

It's all a matter of personal preference, but I took our auto changer off and fitted a standard regulator, on the basis that I want to know when one cylinder runs out so I can replace as soon as it is convenient, rather than run out of gas and find both empty.

 

[monzer]

It is basic stuff but depending on locker size and situation it can be a bit of a fiddly job. Spanners and/or adjustable spanner. They are designed to get a right good tighten up so don't be shy in giving them a right good go.

Regarding the washing liquid: Gaslow don't recommend it....I bought a tin of leak detection spray. You spray it on and give it a brush round the joints to check for bubbles.

WARNING
Do not use washing up liquid of any make or brand for detection of a gas leak
Most washing up liquids on the market today contain Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Sulphate which are very corrosive hence your dishes always come up clean. The chemical composition of washing up liquid will allow you to locate a gas leak by producing bubbles, however this also has a negative effect on the brass and copper in your installation! When the washing up liquid you have used to detect a leak dries, it forms a corrosive compound on the surface and will continue to corrode this surface until such time it is removed or neutralized. Most gas cylinders will have brass valves fitted. If your valves have turned green or forming a green crust then washing up liquid has been used and must be removed. On/off valves on cylinders can also be affected and this is usually noted by the valve becoming stiff to turn on and off.

Remove any green corrosion by flushing the area with water and using a stiff brush to agitate the area until contamination is removed. If the corrosion has entered manual on/off valves this will be harder to remove and may require new valving.
If you have gas level gauges fitted to your cylinders these must be removed before cleaning commences.

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[eurajohn]

Just a couple of pedantic points, pig tail hoses are not on compression joints and there is the option to use a auto change over as a manual one.
Oh, and do not use PTFE tape on gas joints.

 

[RichardandKaren]

Nothing on the joints then?

 

[pappajohn]

WARNING
Do not use washing up liquid of any make or brand for detection of a gas leak
Most washing up liquids on the market today contain Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Sulphate which are very corrosive hence your dishes always come up clean. The chemical composition of washing up liquid will allow you to locate a gas leak by producing bubbles, however this also has a negative effect on the brass and copper in your installation! When the washing up liquid you have used to detect a leak dries, it forms a corrosive compound on the surface and will continue to corrode this surface until such time it is removed or neutralized. Most gas cylinders will have brass valves fitted. If your valves have turned green or forming a green crust then washing up liquid has been used and must be removed. On/off valves on cylinders can also be affected and this is usually noted by the valve becoming stiff to turn on and off.

It's going to take may years to eat through a large brass nut.
It certainly wouldn't bother me.

 

[monzer]

It's going to take may years to eat through a large brass nut.
It certainly wouldn't bother me.

Better safe than sorry.

 

[fullfat]

It is basic stuff but depending on locker size and situation it can be a bit of a fiddly job. Spanners and/or adjustable spanner. They are designed to get a right good tighten up so don't be shy in giving them a right good go.

Regarding the washing liquid: Gaslow don't recommend it....I bought a tin of leak detection spray. You spray it on and give it a brush round the joints to check for bubbles.

WARNING
Do not use washing up liquid of any make or brand for detection of a gas leak
Most washing up liquids on the market today contain Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Sulphate which are very corrosive hence your dishes always come up clean. The chemical composition of washing up liquid will allow you to locate a gas leak by producing bubbles, however this also has a negative effect on the brass and copper in your installation! When the washing up liquid you have used to detect a leak dries, it forms a corrosive compound on the surface and will continue to corrode this surface until such time it is removed or neutralized. Most gas cylinders will have brass valves fitted. If your valves have turned green or forming a green crust then washing up liquid has been used and must be removed. On/off valves on cylinders can also be affected and this is usually noted by the valve becoming stiff to turn on and off.

Remove any green corrosion by flushing the area with water and using a stiff brush to agitate the area until contamination is removed. If the corrosion has entered manual on/off valves this will be harder to remove and may require new valving.
If you have gas level gauges fitted to your cylinders these must be removed before cleaning commences.

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[eurajohn]

Nothing on the joints then?

It would depend on the joint in question, but for the ones mentioned i.e. pigtail hoses the regulator end will have a sealing washer fitted, which should be replaced if inspection shows it necessary and the bottle end depending on the bottle to which it is fitted will either be a taper joint requiring nothing other than good mating surfaces, being clean and tightened to the correct torque, or if of the type found in most of the EU it will have a sealing washer.
If referring to the rigid tubed connection from the regulator to the van internal components, then that is a compression joint, utilising an olive, which if prepared and fitted correctly should require no sealant.

 

[cmcardle75]

It would depend on the joint in question, but for the ones mentioned i.e. pigtail hoses the regulator end will have a sealing washer fitted, which should be replaced if inspection shows it necessary and the bottle end depending on the bottle to which it is fitted will either be a taper joint requiring nothing other than good mating surfaces, being clean and tightened to the correct torque, or if of the type found in most of the EU it will have a sealing washer.
If referring to the rigid tubed connection from the regulator to the van internal components, then that is a compression joint, utilising an olive, which if prepared and fitted correctly should require no sealant.

Indeed. PTFE on these joints is a bad idea. It may provide a short term seal, disguising the fact that the main joint hasn't worked. Then a few months down the line the PTFE fails, leaving you with a leak.

 

[RichardandKaren]

Thanks for the advice