Battery showing nothing on solar panel monitor

[karen123]

Hi I’ve just noticed on our van the battery monitor is say 10-1 which normally it says 13-7 average
I’ve tested both leisure batteries with a voltage tester they are reading 9-70
Does this mean both batteries are knackered we haven’t used the van in a while

 

[Phill D]

If both batteries are at 9,7volts then you have likely lost both batteries.
You could try charging them off the van then do is basic load test on them.
If you have solar then you need to check the output from the regulator assuming the van has been in the sun.
Also you should connect the Hab battery To the solar controller before connecting the solar panel to the controller. So you should disconnect the solar input to the controller before removing the battery.

 

[Two on Tour]

Getting that low will not do them much good, but try charging the up as you may get away with it.

What type of chemistry are your batteries (lead acid, AGM etc) and how old are they.

 

[karen123]

If both batteries are at 9,7volts then you have likely lost both batteries.
You could try charging them off the van then do is basic load test on them.
If you have solar then you need to check the output from the regulator assuming the van has been in the sun.
Also you should connect the Hab battery To the solar controller before connecting the solar panel to the controller. So you should disconnect the solar input to the controller before removing the battery.

They are are at least 3/4 years old

 

[karen123]

So

They are are at least 3/4 years old

rru wrong picture

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[Phill D]

3 to 4 year old batteries should not be an issue unless they have been abused.

 

[Jimbohorlicks]

Nice pictures,
You need to disconnect the batteries and charge them up independently and then check if they are holding charge ( disconnect solar input to the controller first)

 

[Phill D]

That’s twice you’ve had that advice now

 

[karen123]

So

rru wrong picture

 

[karen123]

Nice pictures,
You need to disconnect the batteries and charge them up independently and then check if they are holding charge ( disconnect solar input to the controller first)

Thank you will do that

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[Itsmcb]

You could also do with fitting some fuses. I cant see any in your photos

 

[autorouter]

It depends how long the batteries have been left in a discharged state. If it's a week, or maybe two, then charging them up to 100% may save them. The problem is, the chemical that forms when the battery discharges can gradually solidify into crystals over a period of time, and can't be turned back when the battery is recharged. Batteries need charging to 100% every week or two to avoid this gradual deterioration.

 

[Brains]

If you have no voltage from the solar panels:
Check the following:

Look at the sky, can you see the moon ?
Moonlight will not power your solar panel.

Are you plugged into EHU ?
If you have 240v of mains power coming in, then the battery master will stop the most of the input from the solar panels.

Be careful of power from solar panels.
The only 'off switch' is to park inside or tape down cardboard over the panels.

 

[autorouter]

If a wire is accidentally connected directly between the positive and negative of a typical leisure battery, the result is that a current of hundreds or even thousands of amps can flow in the wire. The wire will heat up, probably glowing bright red, and will start to set fire to anything around it. That scenario is rare, but it does happen.

The reason it is rare is that most wires connected to a battery will be fitted with a fuse. If for any reason the amps exceeds a safe limit, the fuse will melt, safely, and cut off the dangerous current flow. The fuse will be marked with the safe amps limit.

As a result of many sad experiences over the years, there is a rule of thumb that every wire connected to a battery should have a fuse in it.

As well as the standard 'blade' fuses fitted in your fusebox, there are other types of fuse that may be more suitable. For that inverter, for example, that normally takes a large current. These fuses can be fitted 'in-line', ie somewhere along the wire. Or the fuseholder can be fixed to a wall or panel.

Maybe you're not familiar with these fuses - they are not usually available in the average garage or automotive accessory shop. But you can get them from automotive electrics suppliers.

Midi link fuses are very popular, you probably won't need Mega link fuses, unless you fit a bigger inverter.

High Power Fuse Holders

Suppliers of high quality electrical parts, components & accessories for campervans, motorhomes, boats & off-grid applications.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Midi Link Fuses

Midi link fuses used for protecting larger current circuits in automotive, marine and leisure applications. Available in current ratings from 30A to 150A.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Mega Link Fuses

Mega link fuses used for protecting very high current circuits in auto, marine & leisure applications. Available in current ratings from 40A to 500A.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

One possibility would be to fit one of these on the battery terminal. Then connect the wires much like they are now, except through one of the fuses.

Battery Distribution & Fuse Box

Compact power distribution & fuse box that connects directly to the battery terminal using the built-in clamp. Houses 2x Midi/strip & 8x Maxi blade fuses.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Or you could fix one of these to the plywood just near the battery, and run all those wires from fuses.

Mega & Midi Fuse Power Distribution Box

Compact power distribution & fuse box that distributes power theough a single mega link fuse into 4 midi or strip link fuses.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

 

[Bobby-gg]

They've hit their five free post limit now so we'll never find out the results

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