Bathroom socket in Adria Matrix

S

SalcombeRegis

Joined
Feb 16, 2021
Posts
62
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Location
Salcombe Regis
Funster No
79,266
MH
Adria Matrix 600SL
Exp
Delivered April 2021 😃. Still new, still learning. Only a couple of mishaps so far....
Hi. I have a new Adria Matrix Axess 600SL.

In the bathroom cabinet is a blanked off socket where for the UK market it contravenes regulations so there is a blanking plate. Looks like the rest of the sockets - just a circular plate in the middle.

Does anyone know 1. Are the wires behind but just terminated? and 2. How do you get the face plate off to have a look?

Any advice appreciated?
 
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Lenny HB said:
The van has an RCD so it's safe, every van we have had has a socket in the bathroom, I'm still alive.
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But is the wire? And, mixing this with the 'Using a Porta Potti' thread, does it help if you are able to 'go to earth'? [Black Country expression: 'Doc, I aye bin to earth forra week. Can yow give me summat for it?' And the answer is usually a pneumatic drill ...] ;)

Steve

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If it's just been done for the UK market it may actually have been altered by the selling dealer who may have ben a bit 'over-sensitive' to the supposed rules (no idea why as we've never had them blocked off in any of our MHs). The wires will still be there behind the plate and just made safe as there's no way Adria would make a loom and/or alter they way the manufacture purely for us lot.

Just turn off the electrics and remove the cover to have a shuftie - the likelihood is that the cover just clips on - if you can give us a photo we'll be able to advice more specifically.
 
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The just prise off with a knife or something similar. I would think there will be wires behind it. I have one in my bedroom, it must be for an option that I don't have.
 
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As others say. Wires will be there. Just prise off surround of socket plate and that should show fixing screws.
 
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SalcombeRegis said:
Hi. I have a new Adria Matrix Axess 600SL.

In the bathroom cabinet is a blanked off socket where for the UK market it contravenes regulations so there is a blanking plate. Looks like the rest of the sockets - just a circular plate in the middle.

Does anyone know 1. Are the wires behind but just terminated? and 2. How do you get the face plate off to have a look?

Any advice appreciated?
Click to expand...

In my 2020 Matrix 670SL bathroom there were no wires behind the plate. It was easy enough to take them from the socket in the cupboard above the fridge.

All you can do is have a look. I certainly don't expect Adria to have documented either way!

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In my Rapido there is a 3 pin 240V socket next to the toilet. However it is under a shelf and has a spring loaded cover over it.
Unless it was a shaver socket it wouldn't be allowed in a domestic situation but being a mh....🤠
 
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Wikky said:
In my Rapido there is a 3 pin 240V socket next to the toilet. However it is under a shelf and has a spring loaded cover over it.
Unless it was a shaver socket it wouldn't be allowed in a domestic situation but being a mh....🤠
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There are no specific restrictions for toilets and kitchens, only general requirements of good practice. The prohibitions/zoning only applies to rooms with baths and shower trays.
 
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TCG said:
Lenny. i have RCD's in my house but i still wouldn't have a3 pin 240 volt socket in the bathroom :unsure:
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We're the only country that has that Regulation. Maybe we're more careless than the rest. Back to motorhomes: the water in a motorhome basin isn't connected to earth so is no less safe around electricity than the other parts of the bathroom. The same applies to the water in the toilet. We British have some weird obsessions😁.

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tonyidle said:
We're the only country that has that Regulation. Maybe we're more careless than the rest. Back to motorhomes: the water in a motorhome basin isn't connected to earth so is no less safe around electricity than the other parts of the bathroom. The same applies to the water in the toilet. We British have some weird obsessions😁.
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Actually, we just have a much lower rate of death/injury from electrical issues than the rest of the world. These rules only apply to bathrooms, not toilets. It's not a total ban on electrical gear, either, there are zones and, in some cases, you can even have normal sockets.
 
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cmcardle75 said:
Actually, we just have a much lower rate of death/injury from electrical issues than the rest of the world. These rules only apply to bathrooms, not toilets. It's not a total ban on electrical gear, either, there are zones and, in some cases, you can even have normal sockets.
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I very much doubt that our lower death / injury rate has much to do with bathroom sockets. I'm aware of the zones. I can see the sense in keeping stuff away from the bath. My main point is that none of it has much to do with motorhomes in which there should be no issues with sockets in the bathroom (or kitchen).
 
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do not "prise off" the surround, it simply clips on/off and gives access to the blank. Usually berker sockets rather than CBE in rapidos
 
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tonyidle said:
I very much doubt that our lower death / injury rate has much to do with bathroom sockets. I'm aware of the zones. I can see the sense in keeping stuff away from the bath. My main point is that none of it has much to do with motorhomes in which there should be no issues with sockets in the bathroom (or kitchen).
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The whole system is well designed. Better insulation requirements, ring circuits etc. European standards aren't so far behind, but US electrics are a complete joke.
 
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cmcardle75 said:
The whole system is well designed. Better insulation requirements, ring circuits etc. European standards aren't so far behind, but US electrics are a complete joke.
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I agree, the UK systems was better designed, in the days before MCBs. Nowadays the fuse in the plug top is an archaic embarrassement.

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autorouter said:
I agree, the UK systems was better designed, in the days before MCBs. Nowadays the fuse in the plug top is an archaic embarrassement.
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Actually, it is one of the key advantages of the UK system. It allows us to use high capacity ring circuits, giving much greater flexibility to plug in randomly distributed high wattage appliances (i.e. emergency heating) whilst installing fewer circuits. The fuses are crucial in enabling portable appliances to be directly connected to a 32A circuit rather than 16A, as the main circuit breaker is not required to also protect the appliance cord against overload or short circuit. It is particularly significant for thinner cords, such as lights and chargers, which are fused at 3A on our 32A circuits, not at 16A/20A like on a European system. These values can't be safely increased as you can't expect a 0.75mm lighting cord to be able to support the 160A short circuit current guaranteed to instantly trip a B32A breaker even on a direct live neutral short before setting on fire.
 
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pappajohn said:
House regs.... Bathroom should only have a proper shaver socket, a vapour proof light and a pull cord or external light switch.

Motorhomes.... Do as you please.
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You can have a socket in a domestic bathroom as long as it is 3 metres from the bath or shower.
 
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Well I think I have sorted it. Managed to pop the front off, remove the Berker blanking plate and behind are two wires isolated with wago clips. Can’t find an earth but will run one off the socket in the bedroom. Bought a Berker socket and flip plate cover (IP44) so it will be more than safe.

Could be a problem if I climb into the roof height cupboard and try to shower in there next to the roof mounted socket but the cupboard is only about 300 x 500 so that would be an achievement in itself ;). Just must remember not to try and dry my hair with a hairdryer whilst taking a shower - ah no, I am bald - so I don’t even have to worry about that.:LOL:.

Thank you all for your tips and pointers. Appreciated.
 
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autorouter said:
I agree, the UK systems was better designed, in the days before MCBs. Nowadays the fuse in the plug top is an archaic embarrassement.
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I disagree ... when a fuse goes it's easy to replace and has done its job to protect you etc it also only affects the one item rather than taking down the whole circuit so you would then have to play 'hunt' the offending item to find out what caused it, also accessing the MCBs isn't always straightforward depending on the location of the box.

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Minxy Girl said:
I disagree ... when a fuse goes it's easy to replace and has done its job to protect you etc it also only affects the one item rather than taking down the whole circuit so you would then have to play 'hunt' the offending item to find out what caused it, also accessing the MCBs isn't always straightforward depending on the location of the box.
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Contental systems use radial circuits so easy know what device caused the problem.
 
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Lenny HB said:
Contental systems use radial circuits so easy know what device caused the problem.
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That's the problem. You basically need a circuit for each room as each circuit has to be so low powered. It is very wasteful of copper and consumer unit ways.
 
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Lenny HB said:
Contental systems use radial circuits so easy know what device caused the problem.
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How though ... if it was say in a kitchen where you had lots of appliances on (cooker, fridge, freezer, coffee maker etc) you'd still have to play 'hunt' the faulty one which could be a pain if you weren't able to reset the MCB because it kept tripping, at least fuse in a single item would allow the MCB to be reset so you could then see which ones are still working .. that's my theory anyway.
 
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Minxy Girl said:
How though ... if it was say in a kitchen where you had lots of appliances on (cooker, fridge, freezer, coffee maker etc) you'd still have to play 'hunt' the faulty one which could be a pain if you weren't able to reset the MCB because it kept tripping, at least fuse in a single item would allow the MCB to be reset so you could then see which ones are still working .. that's my theory anyway.
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Doesn't make much odds in my experience the RCD nearly always trips before a fuse blows.
 
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Minxy Girl said:
How though ... if it was say in a kitchen where you had lots of appliances on (cooker, fridge, freezer, coffee maker etc) you'd still have to play 'hunt' the faulty one which could be a pain if you weren't able to reset the MCB because it kept tripping, at least fuse in a single item would allow the MCB to be reset so you could then see which ones are still working .. that's my theory anyway.
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Basically because you couldn't put all those appliances on a single circuit, as the lack of fuses makes it electrically dangerous to do so. Instead you need a massive consumer unit and every socket intended for a power hungry appliance needs its own circuit. You get no flexibility as you need to decide where these sockets are before plastering the wall. The UK system allows 32A ring circuits, so you can get 3 power hungry devices on a single circuit and move them around at will.
 
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