Anderson Connectors - How to fit? (1 Viewer)

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Kannon Fodda

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Feb 26, 2019
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What am I missing?

How do you push the crimped wire end into the plastic fitting. It just will not go in.

Blade is the right way i.e bend end faces down if the plug bit is also down. But i can't put any pressure on to push and lock. Im going to end up stabbing myself trying to get a screwdriver edge on the edge of a crimp

Watched loads of you tube stuff and it all seems so easy with nobody needing anything other than a crimp tool and wire stripper :(

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Feb 27, 2011
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I would swap over to XT60’s… been using them for well over a decade now and they are spot on!
I prefer anderson for automotive stuff. XT60 are great for small stuff like remote control vehicles.
 
May 11, 2022
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What am I missing?

How do you push the crimped wire end into the plastic fitting. It just will not go in.

Blade is the right way i.e bend end faces down if the plug bit is also down. But i can't put any pressure on to push and lock. Im going to end up stabbing myself trying to get a screwdriver edge on the edge of a crimp

Watched loads of you tube stuff and it all seems so easy with nobody needing anything other than a crimp tool and wire stripper :(

View attachment 884183
Think you have yet wrong type of crimping tool, your crimp is flat, you need one that crimps from all sides.

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Oct 29, 2016
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Thats the problem with needing to use so many different crimpers for connections these days.
You need square ones for certain connectors, HD hydraulic ones for Battery sized Cabling, and now Anderson ones for Anderson Connectors, you use them to do a small wiring job, then they get put in a drawer somewhere, to maybe never be needed again and if you do, where the hell did you put them?
It may be a different story for those that change vans often, or maybe help out others doing some mods, but I have so many use by me once tools now, that I cannot give away, let alone sell on flea bay with all the hassle that involves.
LES
 

68c

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I always solder the wires in. Hold the pin in a vice between two bits of wood then heat with a blowlamp while filling the hole with solder. Apply flux and quickly insert the wire while solder is still molten. Some do not like soldering wires on vehicles as severe vibration may cause the wire to fatigue and snap, I have never had a problem using multi-stranded wire.

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Feb 27, 2011
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Thats the problem with needing to use so many different crimpers for connections these days.
I have 3 crimp tools
Silverline ratchet. For normal red, yellow and blue crimps. covers everything up to 6mm cable. This also does the smaller Anderson connectors.
1712701953194.png






Then I have the beast. Not this one specifically but pretty much identical. This is great for 10mm - 50mm, This also does the larger Anderson connectors.
1712702104833.png




And my latest addition ( a few years ago now) This Ferrule crimper which is brilliant. Great for avoiding whiskers and making a very neat, professional job of it.
1712702266115.png




So 3 tools in total. Not a lot and the last one is optional really.
 
Feb 27, 2011
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I always solder the wires in. Hold the pin in a vice between two bits of wood then heat with a blowlamp while filling the hole with solder. Apply flux and quickly insert the wire while solder is still molten. Some do not like soldering wires on vehicles as severe vibration may cause the wire to fatigue and snap, I have never had a problem using multi-stranded wire.

I suspect for larger cables not only will they suffer from vibration stresses you may also end up with dry joints. even with the flux. The flux may flash off quickly and the sheer quantity of copper may wick the heat away. especially if you have sized the connector correctly so that it pushes out a lot of the solder.

Unless you are talking about XT60 connectors in which case soldering is the only choice but I would want to heat up and tin the wire before inserting into the connector.

Opinions may vary.
 
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Kannon Fodda

Kannon Fodda

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Think you have yet wrong type of crimping tool, your crimp is flat, you need one that crimps from all sides.
This would appear to be the key. Having rounded a couple of the crimps they are now going in. Wohoo.

Looking extremely closely at the plastic moulding, despite it appearing there is plenty of internal space, there are hidden slight internal bulges which narrow the interior. The non round crimps were being obstructed on those bulges.
 

MisterB

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enough to know i shouldnt touch things i know nothing about ....
Can anyone see an issue with this spot to install an Anderson connector for my portable solar? It's the area marked in pencil



IMG_20240524_114723.jpg


I've made a bracket for the rear of the skirt as I felt just the connector itself want robust enough for plugging in and unplugging

IMG_20240524_113142.jpg



IMG_20240524_113134.jpg
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I want to easily connect without having to open it close the hab door plus I wanted it near the front v Andrew s side so I n very forgot to tell unplug AND to give me the leeway to place the panel on the windscreen so the panel is out of the way, I will if course allow enough cable for flexibility of siting
 
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Jan 30, 2020
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Just a tad..
I would not personally mount it at that point but under the skirt as opposed to through the skirt… I am keep to keep the vehicle aesthetics as OEM as possible, no need to fit the plug there, so I personally wouldn’t..

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MisterB

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enough to know i shouldnt touch things i know nothing about ....
I would not personally mount it at that point but under the skirt as opposed to through the skirt… I am keep to keep the vehicle aesthetics as OEM as possible, no need to fit the plug there, so I personally wouldn’t..

I understand, but I've already fitted an external shower and it's had a gas connection point fitted and I am adding an external 240v socket aswell, so I'm not too fussed about the exterior 'stock' look.
I wanted it in a position that suited how we would use it

I need to seal it all in with Sikka - I've got a few projects that need sealing/sticking so will do them all in one go, over the weekend.


IMG_20240524_175633.jpg


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The aluminium plate worked really well and made it so much more solid when connecting and disconnecting.
 

MisterB

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enough to know i shouldnt touch things i know nothing about ....
Have you pulled the connectors out to attach the wires to then push them back in ?
yes, but i do need to add the T bar to the fly lead to make it easier and to make sute that there is no 'pulling or tugging' on the cables themselves (if thats what you meant?), i just havent got round to adding it yet.

a nice little addition, which i dont know about, was that the folding panel also has 2 x usb connections and one DC connection tucked away inside the pocket, not sure if they will ever be used, but if we're sat outside near the panel, then who knows? I'm sure someone on here has put them to goo practical use ..... just need them to share their 'tips' ...
 
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