Additional solar system & B2B for compressor fridge

[wfdTamar]

Hi. I've had a 2002 Hymer Classic B584 for a season and fitted solar to it. I'm fairly competent mechanically and technically, but the finer points of electrics are not something I do often enough to warrant learning it. I use my Hymer in the warmer months for long periods. My current leisure setup fulfils my use now.

My Hymer has an EBL 99 (capable of 10 Amps solar & 16 Amps alternator charging I think). I installed 200 watts of solar through a Votronic Duo Digital 250 (with temp lead & LCD display), but direct from Votronic to the Yuasa EFB-36 100Ah leisure battery (LB). I did this rather than connect it via the EBL because the solar limit of the EBL is 10 amps. The spec's of the 2 panels combined showed just over 11 amps max (but as it is I could have done it as they didn't get near that). Anyway it all seems to have worked fine, though the 12 volts on my 3 way fridge did finally die, but I think that was just coincidence. 4 months of a long hot summer were too much for it.

I had the AES control from the Votronic solar controller connected to the fridge. This signals the fridge to run off the LB when there is excess solar power. It would only ever run like that for a few minutes - maybe 5 mins max (drawing 10 amps). I do wonder if bypassing the EBL could have caused trouble? Could that have over powered the fridge control panel? But surely that's no different to when you're driving and it's running off the alternator, or would the fridge have better voltage control coming via the EBL? The Votronic's max solar charge voltage is 14.4. If that went through to the fridge could that have cooked the control panel?

The fridge is not economic to fix mostly because the suspected faulty part (the main control panel & front panel - Dometic RM6405) is unavailable. Yes, I (and a motorhome repair bloke) have looked into all possibilities, but it's a no go. Besides that, it was pretty rubbish last summer in 25-37 degrees.That's just a limitation of an absorption fridge. The space is under bench and has an upper and lower vent to outside.

Right, so I'm looking at about £1000 for supply and fit of a new 3 way. That (and better fridge performance) got me thinking of a compressor fridge - either 12 volt, or 240 volt via inverter, with an extra solar system to drive it.

My thinking is rather than enlarge the current solar system, which runs all the usual leisure stuff, I'd install a separate system just to run the fridge. A couple of reasons - to save replacing stuff which is installed and working, and a bigger system would most likely be beyond the capacity of the existing EBL/vehicle charging system. Also so the fridge won't exhaust the normal leisure workings.

I'm thinking:
200 watts fixed solar (with another 100 watt panel to use on the ground as a portable unit in inclement weather)
Votronic Duo Digital 430 solar controller (with LCD display and temp lead)
Votronic 30A B2B charger (with LCD display near driver seat)
Yuasa EFB-36 100Ah battery (possibly two) or 1 Exide ES900 Gel. Open to battery suggestions?

The gel battery has more cycles, can be discharged lower, but doesn't like heat and has a low recharge rate (20A). One gel battery would provide nearly as much capacity as two lead acid ones with less weight and space used. A bit cheaper too.

Victron mains charger 30A - can run lower (I already have this).

Option 1.
12 volt compressor fridge -
Isotherm Freeline 115 Elegance £799

<Broken link removed>

A really nice spec, low amp fridge. The freezer only goes down to -8, but that's enough for my use.
267 watts per 24 hour @ 25 degrees = 22.25 ah per day

Total cost including fridge, batteries & 200 watts solar £1830!


or

Option 2.
A standard domestic 240 volt fridge that'll fit in the space, run via Victron Phoenix inverter as I already have a 500VA one. These can run in 'eco mode' using less standby power. The eco mode might work for a fridge (yes - confirmed elsewhere). Or there's a technique to wire an inverter up to the fridge thermometer so there is no standby draw (need to look into that).

I was considering this fridge, but wasn't sure if it would be low enough to fit:

Compact Refrigerator in modern silver colour and 98L of capacity

Compact refrigerator, silver, of 98lt capacity and new energy class is the ideal solution for small rooms or offices, by Inventor Appliances.

www.inventorappliances.com

£105 A++ Not sure of the power usage in DC. They state 0.36 kWh per day @ 240 volts I can't work out the equivalent in DC.

You can remove the top which may gain enough to fit it in. What I'm not sure about with a domestic fridge is do they use the sides/top to expel heat or would the existing vents in my Hymer (at top & bottom rear of fridge space) be ok to cool it (possibly with extra fans)? All the installation instructions for house fridges require space all round but that's assuming being installed in an unvented space/room. If you just ventilate the rear, where the compressor is, to the outside, is that ok?

Older style fridges have a cooling 'radiator' panel on the back, but more modern ones seem to only have a small opening around the compressor, so where do they expel the heat?.

Total for that 240 volt fridge including fridge and 2 batteries/200 watts solar about £1200. A lot less than 12 volt. Even to allow for inverter losses, so bigger solar, that is a big difference.

Then I found the following fridge, which although more expensive, is exactly the right size to fit (hopefully) €355 (£300) delivered. It also has great specs, very low power use as it's A+++. 0.254 KwH per day @ 240 volts. So I got that one off ebay.

Beko Hausgeräte | Home

Europas beliebteste Marke für Haushaltsgeräte. Benutzerfreundliche Produkte & innovative Technologien für die ganze Familie. Jetzt entdecken!

www.beko-hausgeraete.de

I'd also thought of putting a switch like this in between fridge and all batteries (the new setup and the existing leisure one) so I could pick which solar setup (battery) supplied the fridge. Just in case I ran the fridge system battery too low, but still had reserve in the standard LB.

Marine Battery Isolator/Changeover Switch - 4 Positions - 100A Cont.

4 position marine battery isolator / changeover / master switch for boats, cars & other vehicles. 100A continuous, 500A for 5 secs.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Payload is a consideration, but I think I have plenty of excess to handle it.

Also considering a battery protection doo dah so the fridge battery doesn't get depleted overnight.

I've discussed this on another forum already which has answered some questions. A few people do use 240 volt fridges fine. I suppose I'm after anyone else that has and if there might be any issues not covered - particularly complications working in with the Hymers existing systems. I've tried to minimise these by separating the fridge system from the existing as much as possible. It really will only connect at the alternator and if I install the 4 way switch which can allow the fridge to run off either leisure system.

 

[wfdTamar]

Here's the layout I have now with the second system added. The red boxes are the leisure batteries. The front, existing one (A) under the passenger seat (it's LHD). The existing solar panels are in black. The skylights/vents in green (there's also a vent above the wardrobe, that's why the solar panel is not along the edge, like the front black one). The new solar panels in blue.

I had thought to mount them on the front sloped section above the cab, so you could park straight into the sun for slightly better solar yield. The panels I use are about 1200x550mm (100 watt). There are some others about 1000mm square (150 watt) and 2 of them might go in that space on the front. Decided against it as it would look a bit ugly and I wasn't sure of the fit.

The Electroblock is in the front right corner.

The existing solar controller is mounted on the side of the drivers seat base (between the seats). The display is next to the Truma control on the front wall of the wardrobe which is on the left of the vehicle between bathroom and desk.

The fridge is in the rear, right corner. I thought best place for the second leisure battery (B) is under the couch (sofa) seat. Run the solar cable down the wall behind the curtain and the solar controller and display up on the cupboards above or next to the original Hymer control panel above the rear door. Or I could put the solar controller down on the kick panel under the couch.


Main thing is the routing of cables.
Solar -
1. 10AWG Solar panel cable from 2 panels on the roof to the controller. A double adaptor on the roof to join the 2 panels. I was thinking of putting another double adaptor under the couch, so I could have a lead to run outside through the locker door under the couch to the portable solar panel outside (if I need it). It might run through the gap when the locker door is closed or maybe it would need to be left open, or possibly some kind of socket under a flap on the outside wall?

2. Controller to leisure battery (B) cable.

3. Leisure battery (B) to inverter (also mounted under the couch).

4. 240 volt cable to fridge - can run through the cupboard, along the floor next to the rear door.

5. Solar controller to its LCD display - back along the solar cable route to wherever I choose to mount the display.


B2B charger -
As this will be carrying 20-30A over about 3 metres it's going to need a hefty cable. Not sure what size. I know I can get through to the starter battery (which is in the extreme front, right corner) or the alternator, under the dash in front of the passenger seat. The B2B has a display which I thought I might put near the drivers seat as it'll be on while driving. There's room to the left of the driver. I think I'll mount the B2B on the face of the cabinet the Electroblock is in (to the right of the passenger seat).

1. 6mm + cable from B2B through the firewall to starter battery + terminal.

2. 6mm cables (+&-) from B2B back to leisure battery (B).

3. LCD display cable from B2B to the display near the drivers seat (if it reaches).

4. 0.75mm2 signal wire between B2B D+ terminal and alternator D+

5. 16mm2 cable between starter and leisure battery - terminal ONLY if they are 'isolated'. I think this means if they're in a vehicle that does not use the chassis/body as a ground (for example with a fibreglass motorhome body). In a pre existing vehicle that would most likely be there anyway, though you might need to check the size of it.


Fuses (placed nearest the second item) -
1. 40A fuse between solar panels and controller. I use a circuit breaker which makes it easy to turn off the solar panels if required for work.

2. 40A fuse between controller & leisure battery +

3. 50A fuse between B2B and starter battery +

4. 40A fuse between B2B and leisure battery (B) +

5. 3A fuse between B2B D+ and alternator D+

 

[wfdTamar]

Oh, now that's annoying - you only get an hour to edit your posts. Wanted to make this change to the post above:



6. Leisure battery (B) - to chassis/body.


B2B charger -
This can be wired in various ways, one of which is to the EBL, but I'm not doing that as it's purpose is to charge the fridge leisure battery (B). I did toy with the idea of putting in a dual circuit with a switch so I could choose either leisure battery system to charge, but that's too complicated.

As this will be carrying 20-30A over about 3 metres it's going to need a hefty cables. I know I can get through to the starter battery (which is in the extreme front, right corner) under the dash in front of the passenger seat. The B2B has a display which I thought I might put near the drivers seat as it'll be on while driving. There's room to the left of the driver. I think I'll mount the B2B on the face of the cabinet the Electroblock is in (to the right of the passenger seat). Nope, needs to be closer to the leisure battery (B), so back under the couch.

1. 6mm (maybe 10mm) + cable from B2B through the firewall to starter battery + terminal.

2. 6mm cables (+&-) from B2B back to leisure battery (B).

3. LCD display cable from B2B to the display near the drivers seat (if it reaches).



Fuses (placed nearest the second item) -
1. 40A fuse between solar panels and controller. I use a circuit breaker which makes it easy to turn off the solar panels if required for work.

2. 40A fuse between controller & leisure battery +

3. 50A fuse between B2B and starter battery +

4. 40A fuse between B2B and leisure battery (B) +

 

[Wagoneer]

Thats a long post and a lot to take in. I had a 2002 B544 Hymer classic and found the charging system to be excellent (miles better than my current van). I had 2x80ah gel batteries under the front seats. It was only on a 3400kg chassis, perhaps yours is on a 3900kg maxi chassis ?

Anyway, can't really help, but this is how I see it:

Rather than replace the fridge with a compressor type (which entails upgrading the charging system), can't you find a 3-way fridge of similar dimensions and install a fan in the top vent to improve efficiency. We also used a top-loading 40 litre 12v/240v Waeco compressor fridge (£500) to supplement the existing small 3-way fridge. The Waeco can be used in either fridge or freezer mode. This sat on the floor between the dinette seating (which unfortunately you don't have). We ran the Waeco off the existing 12v system in fridge mode without any problems.

I realise the temperatures you are currently experiencing in Ozz are far greater tnan we generally get in mainland Europe but all fridges will struggle in 45C+.

Hopefully, others will be along soon to share their views on compressor fridges

 

[wfdTamar]

It's 3400kg too. I replaced the 10 year old leisure battery with a Yuasa EFB-L36 upon reading the AandN Caravan Services site. I reckon if the fridge had died immediately I might have considered a setup like you had - 2 Exide G80 (ES900) gels. Hard to know what you'll use before you try it. Even without the compressor fridge I could have used a bit more battery capacity as I like to watch TV and the internet being a solo traveller. I have a 28" 240 volt TV which although efficient still uses a bit and the computer too.

Honestly I had the 3 way running quite well up to about mid 20's, but so much of the time I was in it (4.5 months) it was over that and the fridge then started struggling. I had fans to install, but messed it up so they didn't work. It may have helped a bit, but when it gets over 30, even up to 37 I just don't think it would be enough. I definitely wouldn't be going 3 way with another little compressor! Way too expensive and all the worst bits of both systems. I also don't need that much fridge space. Maybe just a little Waeco, but then why not a proper one?

I'm Australian, but I'm talking about my Hymer which is in the UK and I use there and in France (did last summer there). I live in Tasmania - we had high 20's when they were pushing 50 on parts of the mainland. Sod that, I did my time in that kind of heat. Hottest I've been in was 49.

I've bought most of the parts to do the 240 volt Beco, so really just finalising the technicalities of working the new system in with the old in the few places they meet. I suppose just writing it out to get it straight in my head and in case anyone can see anything I've not thought of.

Talked with a couple of people that use compressor fridges and one or two that do 240 volt ones too. Seems perfectly feasible.

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[ramsthom]

Ref your option 2 domestic fridge. The condenser is usually built into the fridge insulation and adhered to the fridge sides so you would a gap and good airflow around the fridge sides. 0.36 kw per day consumption = 30 amps at 12 volts

 

[wfdTamar]

Ta. The Beko I bought shows a rear cooling 'grill' in the manual so I'm hoping enclosing the sides will be ok as long as the rear is vented to outside. Its rated for 16-43 degrees too.

It's 0.254 kwh a day, but of course that's at 25 degrees (pretty sure that's what they measure them at) and I need to count on more than that worst case. So I was working on 25-40 amps a day.

 

[DBK]

I would do things in stages. 200W of solar should be sufficient to run a compressor fridge in summer but you would need to increase the battery capacity to around 200Ah I think. More solar will help of course but it may not be necessary. What 200W of solar won't do, as you've discovered, is run a 3 way fridge on 12 volts for very long. It works when you are driving because the alternator can supply the necessary current.

So my suggestion is just up your leisure battery capacity, fit a 12 volt compressor fridge and see how you get on. My brother lives in Scotland and has a compressor fridge, 200W of solar and 230Ah of batteries. This works for him, even living so far north.

If you want to use a 240 volt fridge with an inverter I'm less confident but it might work.

If you find you are running flat, so to speak, you could fit a B2B if you want. There's a link in my signature to a thread about fitting mine. But it depends how you use the MH. If you park up in the same spot for long periods a B2B isn't the answer. The vehicle needs to be driven to do the charging as static running isn't recommended except occasionally in an emergency.

In summary, I suggest do things in stages because you may be able to achieve what you want without a complete re-fit.

 

[autorouter]

This may be of interest. He seems to conclude that a 240V fridge plus inverter is definitely a viable option instead of a 12V compressor type

 

[wfdTamar]

Yes that Sterling video was early viewing. I do wish they'd tested in more real world conditions - a bit hotter, fridges filled, doors opened a typical amount of times, but it's still useful. Maybe the overall consumption would be higher in more real world conditions, but the comparison between various types is valid. Particularly how much less power is required not having a freezer.

Certainly running a 3 way on 12 volts is not an option except for when you have excess solar, as mine was using about 10 amps.

I am/was wary of just adding a second leisure battery for fear of overloading the EBL. Just a look at all the burnt out units on here scare me (although they say the EBL99 was upgraded to help with this):

Will all Motorhome Power/Charger units cope with a second battery?

How big can my Motorhomes Habitation battery bank safely be? Will my Power Unit burn out with the extra load? Will my batteries still get fully charged? Can adding extra batteries risk a Fire?

www.aandncaravanservices.co.uk

Also worried that the fridge would not leave much left for other uses in bad weather/no driving. The way I'm thinking is complicated, but having the fridge on a completely separate system means even in a worst case I still have normal leisure battery capacity (though that'd be getting low too).

I think if I'd had to replace the fridge when I first got the vehicle (and put the initial solar on), I'd have gone 300 watts solar, 2 Exide ES900 batteries, 12 volt compressor fridge.

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[wfdTamar]

In considering battery(s) for this I wanted at least a usable 50Ah, maybe as high as 100Ah, so that was looking like 2 lead acid 100Ah ones, or 1 type that could stand being discharged somewhat below 50%.

I already have a Yuasa EFB-L36 as my main leisure battery and it has a good reputation, but only 200 cycles. The Exide G80 gel may have been ok as it can tolerate more discharge, but gel's are not so great in high temperatures.

Then I found this lead carbon one which although more expensive, has great specs - kind of a poor mans lithium. Alpha call it AGM (though Leoch don't seem to). It seems to overcome the disadvantages of AGM (warned about on the AandN site) - poor temperature tolerance. Also has a great cycle rate, can tolerate being discharged down low and stay there a while, and as all my charging can do an AGM type that should be ok too.

12v 100AH Leoch Pure AGM Lead Carbon PLH+ C100 Deep Cycle Leisure Battery NCC Class A - Alpha Batteries

12V 100Ah Ultra Deep Cycle battery for multiple applications – from Leoch’s Pure Lead Carbon series. Features • Pure Lead […]

www.alpha-batteries.co.uk

 

[wfdTamar]

Just confirmed with Beko the fridge has a rear cooling grid. The clearance for the sides is only so room air can get to the back. So having the sides enclosed is ok if the rear space is properly vented.

 

[wfdTamar]

Right 2.5 years later, we (Australians) are finally allowed to travel after the great Covid lockup of 2020-21 (I also had another bout of cancer treatment, so couldn't get back until early May 2022 anyway).

Once I'd cleaned up the mouse poo from the party the little sods had, I got the old fridge out - take the fridge door off, lay it on its side on the sofa (each step on cardboard), then onto the passenger seat, the drivers seat and out the drivers door (took the limiting stay off it so it would open wider). Actually quite easy. Same way in with the new one.

Ah, turns out the new fridge is about 20mm wider than the old (one of the drawbacks to planning all this from the other side of the world). Luckily there's a wood infill trim about 60mm wide and a side panel on the left of the fridge cavity and a false floor that lifts the original fridge up about 50mm. Took both out to make a nice big, clean hole. The vinyl flooring runs right in and cleaned up very well. The Beko TSE 1284 fridge easily goes in, but the cover of the habitation door lock might prevent the left hinged fridge door opening fully. However having dropped the fridge to the vinyl floor allows that habitation door lock to slip into the left fridge door handle scallop! Excellent.

I used the white bits left over (the top cover and rear upper ventilation cover) to cut trim bits for top and bottom of the fridge and even little white covers for the ugly metal hinge pin brackets. Changed the hinge to the other side and the right hinge point makes a great door lock for travelling.

The only thing not completely worked out is keeping the shelves in place and the food on them. I had bought some rods that screw out and stay in place by friction. As you see in the video one popped out, but it may just need to be tighter. I used some very grippy tape to hold the lowest shelf in. Looks a bit ugly, but works well. I may just do that for all the shelves and use the rods to keep food on them.

The two biggest unknowns in planning were noise and power use. I tried the fridge on mains power and it's extremely quiet. The specs say 38dB. With your ear up to the van rear vent you can barely hear it. It's actually about as loud as a 3way gas burner. Inside the van I don't think it's audible at all. Tried it running off the Victron Phoenix 500VA inverter and battery and the inverter makes a small hum for 2-3 seconds when the compressor first starts, and the lights on the inverter say it's in overload for about 10-20 seconds, but after that initial period it runs with a green light, so it's fine. That short hum wont be very audible with the sofa seat down. The inverter will run in Eco mode (basically off unless required), but then there's no light in the fridge unless the fridge is running. I'll see how much power Normal mode uses and how much Eco mode saves before deciding which to use.

In the photo's you can see a fridge thermometer stuck on the door (by magnets). This has room, fridge and freezer displays. so I can fiddle with the fridge control to get the best setting. Also on the grill up top is a control for a rear vent fan setup. This is part of a neat kit you can get for £55 (if you cant be bothered to DIY one). Also the hob isn't back in yet and floor coverings not on.

Inverter VE.Direct - Victron Energy

Inverters allow you to power domestic equipment - requiring 230V/120V AC - using 'leisure' or 'automotive' batteries rated at 12V, 24V or 48V DC.

www.victronenergy.com

Amazon product ASIN B077TJCL3F

 

[wfdTamar]

Did a nerdy video just showing the fitment of it (pretty much everything above). Just temporarily I've put both temperature sensors at the back of the fridge compartment. When I have all the electrics installed I'll do another showing the whole setup with a pricing rundown.

Tried uploading it here, but maybe the file size is too big so here's a link to Youtube of it (7:48 mins):

 

[wfdTamar]

Been in France for over a month in temperatures up to 39 C (there was going to be a week over 40 with a high day of 46 where I was, but I did a runner for high ground to find a 'cool' 36). The fridge works great regardless of those temperatures. Battery hasn't gone below 80% capacity.

The only flaws are that the inverter (Victron Phoenix 500VA) gets overloaded a tad when the compressor comes on - it hums for a second, then has a think for 20 seconds, another quick hum, then gets on with the job. So it does work, but I wonder if a higher powered one (the 800VA) would do it without the humming. The vent fans come on at 20 C (when you select Auto), so a lot, but they're speed varied, not on full all the time. You can hear them, but it's not loud and reassuring that they're on in hot weather.

The other thing I would have liked is electronic temperature control and (I don't think any small fridges do this) seperate temperature controls for freezer and fridge. It just means to get the fridge cool enough the freezer is extremely cold, so not a problem. I had it set a bit too cold the other day and got this result (temps are fridge, freezer, room). The only time the fridge goes up is when I've had the door open a while (like when loading fresh shopping).

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[wfdTamar]

I'm now back home (Australia). Based on my setup & results I reckon you could manage with 200 watts solar and a 60Ah battery. I didn't have many days that the solar couldn't recharge the battery easily and if that happened the 30A B2B charger would do it quite quickly. I've bought an 800VA inverter to change to when I'm next over (anyone want a Victron Phoenix 500VA cheap?).

I connected a power board (combo cigarette and USB sockets) to the battery as it has excess power available - just to add extra capacity to my regular leisure setup for charging the numerous battery operated doo dah's you have.

I saw the fridge I used for sale in Germany for €219.

 

[Jezter]

This is a really good, clear thread for those of us considering this. Thanks for posting.

 

[wfdTamar]

Another thing I did was use the old fridge's 240 volt cable to connect a Victron mains charger for the fridge battery, but really between the solar and B2B I don't think I'd ever need to mains charge it, so I reckon I'll take it out (another thing on offer). In 4 months I never connected to EHU.

I put those expanding rods at the back of the glass shelves which stops the shelves sliding out (they have to lift up a bit to come out) and some more at the front edge. You just need to screw the rods out enough that they grip, but not so much they punch through the fridge sides. Also got some thin plastic sheets that look like mini bubble wrap which are supposedly non slip. They're ok, but I might not use them again. I only ever had stuff tumble out when it was stacked a few things high and that would happen in any fridge. Oh and a tub to hold small things like multiple pots of yoghurt.

I use an Allen key to lock the door for travel and for long term storage just use a plastic bag tie to hold the Allen key in front of the locking bracket.

A tip - don't buy conical ice creams. They're a bugger to pack in the freezer and always fall out.

 

[wfdTamar]

Here's the solar on my roof. The original 2 x 100 watt panels on the left power the normal leisure battery. The 3 x 100 watt on the right are just for the fridge battery. I used these Dokia panels (1175x535mm) off ebay. They were £75 (last bought in 2019), now £150! so I'd be looking around for others. They did fit nicely around existing stuff on the roof.

Amazon product ASIN B07DW6QCP9
Although I used those white plastic mounts I wouldn't recommend them. Despite being big, they don't actually have much area in contact with the roof. They're so bulky they can make it hard to fit the panels on the roof. I had to shave a bit off the ones on the right side of the right panels to be able to mount the panels up the right side and still be able to open the skylights. The thin aluminium mounts would be much better. You can also see the mounts on the left panels have aged in the weather over the 3 years. I'm fairly sure they were the same colour as the other ones.

 

[Just smiffy]

Great job… well done…

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[Figaro]

Although I used those white plastic mounts I wouldn't recommend them.

Interesting read, thanks for sharing.
I've read some people have experienced those plastic solar panel mounts coming unstuck and losing their panels.
It appears the plastic can, over time especially in hot climates, release oils that affect the Sikaflex bonding performance.
Might be worth checking yours when you're over again, where abouts do you store your van ?
Sounds like a good plan you have, european NH summer then Ausie SH summer, win win and no cold / snow / ice / frost etc

 

[wfdTamar]

I screwed them on as well (for that reason also having read of glued only ones coming off).

Currently storing near Telford. Seems a good place and £30 pm. Only thing is they crammed them in quite close together, but as I only come in and out twice a year that's ok.

Bought it in early 2019, had one summer that year, then payed storage for 2.5 years until this years summer, as we weren't allowed to travel. About 4.5 months there and 7.5 here gets you to the break even point weather wise.

 

[wfdTamar]

Back in the UK now and installed the 800VA Victron Phoenix inverter which has solved the minor overload issue the 500VA one had. I think it has a slightly higher idle load, but still nowhere near using all the 100Ah battery. What I is should do is turn off the solar and B2B to see how much power the fridge uses in 24 hours say at 25 degrees.

Also changing my 100Ah Yuasa LR36 EFB leisure battery for a 100Ah lead carbon Gel one so I can discharge down to 20%. Can't say I've had a problem with the Yuasa. Seems a very good lower priced battery. I've upgraded from a 28" 720p tv to 32" FullHD tv (nice Panasonic one with far better sound). Just want to be sure I don't have issues if I'm on an aire in bad weather for a number of days.

 

[wfdTamar]

I got one of these leisure batteries for my normal leisure system (which is not what powers the fridge) and boy is it good. The voltage seems to be maintained a bit higher than the Yuasa so the pump runs a bit faster (better toilet flush). Allows me 88Ah usable compared to the 50Ah of the Yuasa so I have no problems with power. I could watch the TV all day. It's a bit higher than the standard battery so I had to convert to using the bolt in terminals rather than the standard post type terminals as it is under a front seat. Also removed the plywood base the battery sits on. Realised I could have turned the battery on its side (as its gel) which might have worked too. Cycle count of 750 if discharged 80% (which is 88Ah - I've never got close to that). At the rate I use it I'll get more like 1500-2000 cycles, which is pretty good for £190.

If you don't want to spring for lithium, this is a great option. The only drawback compared to lithium is its weight.

12V 110AH Expedition Plus Lead Carbon Gel Ultra Deep Cycle Battery (EXP12-110C) - Alpha Batteries

Ultra Deep Cycle Lead Carbon GEL Battery

www.alpha-batteries.co.uk

 

[MisterB]

Great thread, very informative and Im sure that it's helped a few people consider their options in the same circumstances.

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[wfdTamar]

Ok, I've been using my Australian Hymer that has a 12 volt compressor fridge (a Waeco CR110) for a few months in temperatures up to high 30's. It works fine, but it is louder than the Beko TSE 1284 240 volt fridge I have in my UK Hymer. I think because the cooling grid is crammed up around the compressor at the top with multiple folds in it so it has a fan. That's louder than the vent fans I use in the original 3way's upper wall vent.

The Beko fridge has a flat single layer cooling grid over the whole rear of the fridge. I also have the fans in the wall vent for that. They're louder than the fridge and not very loud at all.