3D Printer for MoHo “gadget” creation? (1 Viewer)

[PaulandChrissy]

What printer did you get in the end.

 

[ShaKen]

You will never stop learning. The art is getting a really nice finish. Might I suggest using Prusa Slicer v2.3 as your slicer program.

Thanks

I’m using Cura (the new version) and it seem to work well (so far) - bu still having issues with good adhesion to the bed, and this inconsistent primary layers.

I’ll certainly have a look at the Prusa Slicer to see if that works better!

 

[ShaKen]

What printer did you get in the end.

If that question was to me.... I got a Geeetech A20M - dual/mixer extruder at a reasonable price (for a starter machine). I suppose time will tell whether that was a wise decision; certainly the sample model supplied with it printed really well.

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[irnbru]

I’ve now got my hands on a 3D printer

Good to hear! If I need something made I know you are pretty local and saves me the expense of buying one

 

[Sasbo]

ShaKen put me on the list for the Chausson hook's when you are in a position to produce them.

 

[PaulandChrissy]

Bed levelling is critical with that machine to get a good first layer. Does it have automatic bed mesh levelling, or do you have to level manually.

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[ShaKen]

Bed levelling is critical with that machine to get a good first layer. Does it have automatic bed mesh levelling, or do you have to level manually.

It has manual bed levelling; I think I can upgrade to auto bed levelling.

I did switch to using a raft base (via Cura) and that did improve the print, although not perfect yet.

 

[PaulandChrissy]

A raft base is a very old method of getting better adhesion. It does leave you with a messy base to the print. Auto mesh bed levelling is much better and will give you a more consistent print. In the meantime I think you need to spend more time improving the level of your bed. If you can perfect your first layer you will get much better prints. The latest version of cura is good.

 

[olley]

Cura usually runs around the perimeter of what your printing a few times and I find that allows me to make any small adjustments to the bed level if needed.
You can buy auto levelling for the ender but so far adhesion has been fine, in fact sometimes it's flipping difficult to get the parts of the baseplate.

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[2CVer]

Hi ShaKen
There are loads of 3D printers on the market, all capable machines, but most need tweaking to get the best out of them. If you want a machine that is well sorted, good backup, and capable of printing for 1000s of hours, I would recommend a Prusa Mini. If you want to go to the next level, then the Prusa i3 MK3s. The printer is however only part of the equation. You need to learn a good CAD program. Only this way can you design your own thingymajigs. It is quite a steep learning curve, but once you master everything you won’t be able to stop making things. Don’t hesitate to ask more questions.

Hope that’s helpful. Paul and Chrissy.

I'd agree with Paul and Chrissy. I've a Prusa i3 MK3s and have made a load of things for my MH. I use Fusion 360 for design - it has a lot of functionality, but the learning curve is not too bad and there are a load of YouTube videos to get you started. Once you've built the model it's just a couple if mouse clicks and the printer will be making something. I'd definitely recommend Prusa products including their filament, which is superb.

 

[Bobby-gg]

I've just got my first printer up and running, a delta style Flsun qq s, doing a couple of test prints now, just stuff I've found on thingiverse, and using the enclosed pla.

 

[PaulandChrissy]

I've just got my first printer up and running, a delta style Flsun qq s, doing a couple of test prints now, just stuff I've found on thingiverse, and using the enclosed pla.

Way to go man. You won’t be able to stop making things now.

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[Bobby-gg]

Way to go man. You won’t be able to stop making things now.

Yup, none stop

Calibration cube

MicroSD card wallet

Carabiner

And a Makita router circle jig



Gotta love Thingiverse

 

[Nanniemate]

If you do go into production ShaKen how about the lock on the Dometic fridge. Mine broke but I was able to repair it with superglue but a new one would no doubt be more durable. You can buy the lock for the more recent version online but not for my model.
I think that the OEM price is about £30 so there is potential profit in it!
No pressure

Hi paddymcc, I got these from ebay, fit great and the guy does the fridge locks.

MOTORHOME/CARAVAN Dometic Fridge Vent Closing Caps / Clips (Pack of 10) - BLACK | eBay

sorry just read more of the thread where kind funsters were offering to help

 

[paddymcc]

Thanks Nanniemate but he doesn't do the lock for my model of fridge which is rather more complicated than the one that he makes. PaulandChrissy is giving it a shot however

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[paddymcc]

I'm pleased to say that Paul of PaulandChrissy has produced a really well engineered replacement for my fridge lock.

 

[ShaKen]

He

ShaKen put me on the list for the Chausson hook's when you are in a position to produce them.

Here’s my early results.....
I also did an exact copy of the original hooks but they proved a bit weak by design so I tweaked the design a little.

Still not perfect but certainly functional

 

[Sasbo]

ShaKen sent you a pm.

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[PaulandChrissy]

Couple of tips. In the corners add some chamfers, they take the stress away from the corners a bit.
Also looks like your flow rate may be a little low as you have little gaps between the layers. Also increasing nozzle temperature can help with strength.
Looking good.

 

[ShaKen]

Couple of tips. In the corners add some chamfers, they take the stress away from the corners a bit.
Also looks like your flow rate may be a little low as you have little gaps between the layers. Also increasing nozzle temperature can help with strength.
Looking good.

Thanks Paul (or is that Chrissy).

Are you recommending I increase the mm/s? (I actually slowed it down thinking that it would give better quality).

 

[Nirvanauk]

How difficult is it to get the hang of making a 3D item? is the software quite complicated? Does it come with the printer, etc. Thanks.

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[PaulandChrissy]

Hi Shaken
Theres a perfect point. If you over extrude it will get blobby, and under you will get gaps and be weak. I fine tune every item, and then save the perfect GCode for future prints of that item.

Hi Nirvanuk
Theres lots of different programs out there. Some printers come with basic software, and some with none. Printing is not that hard, but to get prints that are super clean and smart takes a bit of twiddling.

Its all good fun.

 

[PaulandChrissy]

Thanks Paul (or is that Chrissy).

Are you recommending I increase the mm/s? (I actually slowed it down thinking that it would give better quality).

Slowing mm/s is just how fast the printer prints. The ratio stays the same. To fill those little gaps, increase the flow rate a little on the printer while printing. Hopefully you have a TUNE option while printing. Look for flow rate in TUNE on the printer screen. Loads of u tube videos you can watch to help you.

 

[Bobby-gg]

I've just designed and printed my first 3D print rather than downloading a ready made stl file from thingiverse



It's one of a pair of feet for our ikea occasional table, I designed it in sketchup as I've used it before, but I'm going to get fusion 360 next

They worked perfectly

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[PaulandChrissy]

Way to go. Super job.

Paul and Chrissy.

 

[ShaKen]

Slowing mm/s is just how fast the printer prints. The ratio stays the same. To fill those little gaps, increase the flow rate a little on the printer while printing. Hopefully you have a TUNE option while printing. Look for flow rate in TUNE on the printer screen. Loads of u tube videos you can watch to help you.

Got it. Thanks