25A fuse welded to holder!!! (1 Viewer)

[Flook]

I have a 25A fuse welded to the holder, this set me to thinking, have any of you had similar issues with fuses etc.

The hab door step wont operate, cannot set alarm etc. I will hopefully be replacing it in the next day or two.

Flook

 

[PJGWiltshire]

Something has caused a heavy load on the circuit to cause the heat. Has the fuse blown?

Is the fuse for the vehicle or from the 12V circuit

 

[Landy Andy]

Often due to poor connection in fuse holder, so has caused arcing

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Flook]

Fuse is okay, the burn is usually caused by improper connections, in this instance the fuse tab and the holders retainers, the retainers should be a tight fit, but one was not, so the current was forced to jump from one to the other, this causes friction, in turn it builds to heat up and the plastics start to melt.
I have removed the assembly for safety sake. All part of motor-homing fun and adventure

 

[Two on Tour]

I have a 25A fuse welded to the holder, this set me to thinking, have any of you had similar issues with fuses etc.

The hab door step wont operate, cannot set alarm etc. I will hopefully be replacing it in the next day or two.

Flook

Is this the fuse in the cable tucked under the battery box between the hab battery and the power distribution unit under the bench seat ?

 

[GWAYGWAY]

There is a corrosion problem there causing high resistance and it had got verry hot, you will probably need a new fuse holder as well as the plastic parts will be melted as well as the actual connections . Same as a bad connectino on a 13 amp socket and how it gets hot enough to smell that disgusting smell it makes. The fuse is not hot so it didn't blow.
I weld thin metal parts at under 25 amp on my TIG welder, so it was hot.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Flook]

CCC, it is where the stantion where the drivers door closes to near the hand break, there is a plastic cover held in place by three screws. once removed all the linking connections from the Peugeot side to the Elddis side are in here, there is also a largish circuit board (PCB) as well.

When I get the replacement, providing it is the same, I will be able to remove the internal component, make sure the connections are tight before refitting etc.

Getting back to my original post, has anyone else experienced the same or similar situation??


Flook

 

[Ranger]

I have seen cheap blade fuses do that rather than blowing, they get overloaded with up to twice the rated amperage, get hot, melt but still don't blow. Only use known make fuses not the cheap packs you find at shows and markets.

 

[Flook]

All sorted now, the holder attained from Marquise at Billing, they had no 25A fuses, so I popped into Halford's in Wellingborough and bought a pack of 25A fuses.

Made sure the metal connections in the fuse holder was good, connected the wiring and taped both ends despite the female connectors being sleeved, fitted the fuse, tested the alarm setting with door locks, also the motorised step, all okay.

I have spares of each, but I will be keeping a close check on the fuse, on the just in case situation.

I assume non of you have experienced similar problems. . .

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[MitchandJenny]

Did you recently go through water ?? Our step motor got water in and blew !!
Just saying (no G)
Mitch.

 

[tonyidle]

Good quality fuses require double the rated current to blow instantaneously. For example a 5A fuse will carry 7A indefinitely but may get rather warm. Fuses operated at currents above their nominal rating tend to fail eventually due to oxidation or failure of the fuse holder.