Just the Battery….what could go wrong?

[autorouter]

I’m looking at regularly to monitor battery level. ( borderline OCD).

If you're looking to become a true OCD then you need a proper battery monitor. Voltage levels can be very misleading, and no use at all when they are being charged. Which on a motorhome with solar is most of the time.

A shunt-based battery monitor has a shunt that fits on the battery negative terminal, so that all the amps to and from the battery has to flow through it. It measures amps, and has a clock and microchip which keeps track of the amp-hours into and out of the battery. So you always know the state of charge accurately, even when charging or under load. The Victron monitors are quite popular - the BMV types have a separate display panel, and the SmartShunt doesn't, but uses a phone app by Bluetooth. There are other types like the NASA BM, and some cheaper ones on Ebay.

 

[Jasz]

Did you get your hot water working? There should be a switch to use it from gas (on ours it's next to the one from electric) - remember to take the vent cover off the outlet pipe or it won't work (red light comes on). We only have a 75Ah battery and 100W solar panel and have not yet had any problems for 4 night stops (May to end of September) and we do watch some TV although not a lot.

 

[phil_in_npton]

Good Afternoon!

Just got back to our mobile countryside mansion and as it’s just a little chilly we thought we would try another learning curve. The gas heater! Please note it has been working before as I’m sure bro in law checked it last September soon after purchase ( also came with no problem hab check) we have used it without problem on EHU.
Now we are struggling, cannot work out how to get it working so I’m about to start Googling but as always trying on here first is preferred.

Mansion is an Autotrail Tracker (‘08) but think that’s not so relevant as the make of heater? Which is Truma Ultraheat

Control pics attached, any advice appreciated!

Phil in Northampton

 

[phil_in_npton]

Have tried dial turned to the gas icon, and depressing switch on left of heater, get a constant clicking noise…

Additional pic if helpful

Phil in Northampton

 

[phil_in_npton]

Jeez, I’m struggling to operate a pic on a post!

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[funflair]

The gas for your hot water is turned off I think, the knob should be inline with the pipework for gas to flow.

 

[autorouter]

The gas for your hot water is turned off I think, the knob should be inline with the pipework for gas to flow.

To be clear, that's inline with the exit pipework, ie at right angles to the manifold. The top tap on your picture is off, and it needs to be turned on.

It might take a minute or two for the gas to reach the heater if it's been off for a few months.

 

[phil_in_npton]

Yes, sorry, have turned that in line after taking the picture!

Is this the red light referred to regarding the vent?

Thanks

Phil in Northampton

 

[phil_in_npton]

!

 

[autorouter]

My room heater/hot water is not the same as that, but is the room heater part totally separate, operated by the controls on top of the room heater? And those controls on the wall for the hot water heater only - one for gas, one for electric?

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[herald_400rl]

That side looks like hot water temp, the other for heating or the heater itself?

 

[phil_in_npton]

Good Evening

It’s starting to get annoying now!
Gave reset the red taps. Top one at tight angles. The helpful little sticker appears to be upside down.
Have downloaded the operation manual but it only explains electric use and not only on gas. ( not helpful at all!)
You tube video more helpful in shows what to do, but it doesn’t do it for us. Possibly the battery used for ignition needs replacing but I can’t see initially where that is…
It is so frustrating when one is not confident in DIY type issues.

Phil in Northampton

 

[ChrisL]

!

View attachment 751788

The red led means it hasn't ignited, as the gas was turned off it may take several attempts to get it lit, when it does fire up the red light should go out or turn amber until the water gets up to temperature and then go out so only the green is showing.

 

[Jasz]

Good Evening

It’s starting to get annoying now!
Gave reset the red taps. Top one at tight angles. The helpful little sticker appears to be upside down.
Have downloaded the operation manual but it only explains electric use and not only on gas. ( not helpful at all!)
You tube video more helpful in shows what to do, but it doesn’t do it for us. Possibly the battery used for ignition needs replacing but I can’t see initially where that is…
It is so frustrating when one is not confident in DIY type issues.

Phil in Northampton

If you can hear it clicking it will be trying to ignite, therefore probably no gas. We do have gas igniters to light our fire at home, which don't work despite having gas and a spark, so I understand your frustration.

 

[autorouter]

!

Another possibility is that there is an external cover on the flue exhaust, that needs to be removed. It cuts off the water heater after a few seconds if it's not removed. This video covers it.

Have downloaded the operation manual but it only explains electric use and not only on gas. ( not helpful at all!)
You tube video more helpful in shows what to do, but it doesn’t do it for us. Possibly the battery used for ignition needs replacing but I can’t see initially where that is…

This video covers the gas room heater operation, including changing the igniter battery. It's not exactly the same model as yours, but maybe it's similar enough.

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[phil_in_npton]

Good Evening
Tucked up in bed at the end of day two of our electric free adventure, it seems we have two seperate issue that may or may not be connected. The hot water and the actual heater.
It was a bit chilly earlier but it comes to a point that worrying and spending too much time on a problem detracts from the fun of actually being away!
Anyway it’s going to be warmer tomorrow!
For the record I suffered defeats at Scrabble, Patchwork and Dominoes tonight as my losing streak continues. My excuse? She was sitting under the duvet whilst I was shivering the other side of the table!
Tomorrow is new BBQ day! And attaching the new gas bottle, oh what fun is in prospect!

Phil in Northampton

 

[phil_in_npton]

Autorouter… thanks for taking the trouble to post the videos. It doesn’t actually show whatever cover May or may not be on the gas vent, I think it’s not that unless I’m looking at wrong thing altogether!
Also mentioned a rocker switch in the cupboard, not sure about that either!

 

[autorouter]

Also mentioned a rocker switch in the cupboard, not sure about that either!

Those rocker switches between the two dials aren't present on his system, so maybe those switches are what he is talking about. This whole question is annoying and unnecessary. How difficult can it be to label the switch so the user knows what it does?

 

[MisterB]

phil_in_npton

Can you post a photo of your main gas valve and regulator. You may need to push a button on the regulator to allow gas to flow to the appliances or you may even have a crash valve fitted, again which may need to be reset.

As you can operate your gas hob it's seems unlikely to be the issue, but it's usually a case of working from the cylinder to the appliances and checking where gas is and isn't by loosening (not undoing) a nut before and after any valves, BUT only if you're competent to do so, which you admit you're not, but if you can find someone who is, then ......

If someone could determine if you have gas to the appliances (there is likely to be another valve close to each appliance, to allow for servicing/removal - is there? They may be turned off) then it will help to diagnose where the fault lies.

 

[phil_in_npton]

Good Evening!

Good news! … and yet another dumb question!

Firstly, whilst laying in bed musing over the problem I was convinced that the key was the two red taps in the space under the wardrobe. I think we fiddled with them so many times I didn’t know what I’d tried and what not.
So calmly looking at the upside down guidance sticker and aligning the taps accordingly… then going to the right hand dial that has a circle icon and a gas flame icon, turning that to gas icon, green light comes on and an audible click from the cupboard. No red light appeared!
15 mins later the water was running warm to hot so that seems to be part A solved!
Tried the heater again but still just ticking without igniting. Anyway that was this morning, we also unpacked our brand new Camping Gaz table top gas BBQ. didn’t have a screwdriver small enough to attach the feet! Struggled to push the hose on to the regulator and other end.
Went out for the day… purchased a set of precision screwdrivers and successfully put the feet on… impressed?
Watched a You Tube video showing that immersing the end of the tube in hot water softens it so it goes on easier.. and it did!
Now todays question, when buying the regulator for the camping gaz 907 cylinder, the branded one came with a short bit of hose at about £26. I wanted longer hose and bought two metres separately. Then I asked about a regulator and was told that a non branded one is cheaper. So I bought that. It looks different to the branded one. It doesn’t screw in from underneath and doesn’t seem to have a knob to turn it off.
Any advice on this before I try and connect it?
Hopefully following pics show the issue!

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[herald_400rl]

You've faired better than us - we have been at the aire for 4 hours and only the fridge is running on gas but rhe voltage meter is now showing flat and not even the lights work.

 

[phil_in_npton]

Hi Herald..

Sorry to hear that! However I have nothing to offer other than there are a lot of helpful people on here!

Phil in Northampton

 

[herald_400rl]

Hi Herald..

Sorry to hear that! However I have nothing to offer other than there are a lot of helpful people on here!

Phil in Northampton

Yeah, not sure if the leisure battery is toast. There's a receipt from August last year for it so its under warranty (whatever that means). I brought my volt meter and can confirm it is showing 10.8v - was 12.8v when we arrived. 12v panel nothing comes on, heater won't ignite, taps don't work, lights don't work! Glad I brought a couple of lanterns and a 5l water bottle.

 

[tonyidle]

The most painless way to test a vans ability to last off-grid is to use a site with EHU. Then switch off the charger. Use the van as you wish until the battery is as low as you wish to take it then that number of days is your baseline. Then turn the charger on and enjoy the rest of your stay. You'll have discovered, painlessly, how long your future true off-grid stay can be.

 

[MisterB]

Good Evening!

Good news! … and yet another dumb question!

Firstly, whilst laying in bed musing over the problem I was convinced that the key was the two red taps in the space under the wardrobe. I think we fiddled with them so many times I didn’t know what I’d tried and what not.
So calmly looking at the upside down guidance sticker and aligning the taps accordingly… then going to the right hand dial that has a circle icon and a gas flame icon, turning that to gas icon, green light comes on and an audible click from the cupboard. No red light appeared!
15 mins later the water was running warm to hot so that seems to be part A solved!
Tried the heater again but still just ticking without igniting. Anyway that was this morning, we also unpacked our brand new Camping Gaz table top gas BBQ. didn’t have a screwdriver small enough to attach the feet! Struggled to push the hose on to the regulator and other end.
Went out for the day… purchased a set of precision screwdrivers and successfully put the feet on… impressed?
Watched a You Tube video showing that immersing the end of the tube in hot water softens it so it goes on easier.. and it did!
Now todays question, when buying the regulator for the camping gaz 907 cylinder, the branded one came with a short bit of hose at about £26. I wanted longer hose and bought two metres separately. Then I asked about a regulator and was told that a non branded one is cheaper. So I bought that. It looks different to the branded one. It doesn’t screw in from underneath and doesn’t seem to have a knob to turn it off.
Any advice on this before I try and connect it?
Hopefully following pics show the issue!

View attachment 752268 View attachment 752269 View attachment 752270

I don't think either of those will fit your camping Gaz cylinder ...

Glad you found the two isolating valves to the appliances!!

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[herald_400rl]

The most painless way to test a vans ability to last off-grid is to use a site with EHU. Then switch off the charger. Use the van as you wish until the battery is as low as you wish to take it then that number of days is your baseline. Then turn the charger on and enjoy the rest of your stay. You'll have discovered, painlessly, how long your future true off-grid stay can be.

This was our intention, but... I left the coiled EHU lead on the drive (MIL has rescued it).

Hob works, so tea and hot water bottle for heat.

 

[herald_400rl]

Now we are back on dry land I'm spending the afternoon getting to grips with how the electrics are setup.
Leisure battery voltage reads 10.8
When turning the charger on, it still reads 10.8. There is only one positive wire to the leisure battery.

This positive wire goes back to a relay which has the supply from the battery as I would expect. The other post (load) has the wire from the leisure battery and another wire which I've yet to trace.

There are no wires connected to the relay switch ground of live wire, so I'm unsure how this is expected to work (it is a "normally open" relay).

I've figured out the charging from the hookup, you need the 12v turned on which activates this relay in here from the charger.

So I think I need to run a ground wire on the relay in the engine bay and a feed from a live that is only live when the engine is running and that should solve my issues!

Well... at least enable a fair battery test

 

[herald_400rl]

Oh obviously the other wire will be from the 240v charger

 

[Mixyblob]

I can’t understand what people are doing that requires so much.

2 ebike batteries and a 12v compressor fridge.

 

[martin2603]

It looks like range anxiety has arrived, or more like tv or light anxiety in this case. I had a twin diesel cruiser some 35 years ago, never used hook up, and that ' s because it had no ring main facility , and of course there were no hook ups on the banks of the river. It had twin 6 volt batteries one for start and one for leisure. I did fit an Eberspaecher heater for the colder nights and fishing trips, but only once did the volts go down after being moored for three days.
Yes I did have a 12 volt TV all those years ago. The cause of the voltage drop was battery failure. Replaced with new ones.
Methinks we worry to much!!

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