Autowatch 695 RLC alarm problem

[Shortap]

PS I have no idea what that emoji is doing!

 

[Two on Tour]

Thanks for that ToT giggle. I will try that, but if I may pick your brains one more time for my understanding: Does the Autowatch system work by the switch reeds closing when the magnet is in play (< 12mm - door closed, making a complete cct) and if the alarm is armed and the magnet is removed (i.e. door is opened without disarming the alarm) the reeds move apart (to NO) breaking that cct, thus triggering the alarm? I'm assuming that by arming the alarm a current runs through the reed switch and this is registered in the Canbus unit.

I think you should get a commission fee from Autowatch...
Regards, Tony

Normal state is when the magnet is in close proximity to the reed of the switch and on the Autowatch on the hab door uses a normally open contact, so it's open circuit, move the magnet away and the reed contact close and it goes into an alarmed state.
That why your alarm set with the contact not connected.

 

[Shortap]

Thanks for confirming that Paul. Much appreciated.

 

[aml1951]

Hi gregstarone it's normally a Autowatch 695 RLC fitted to an Elddis.

The two main causes of the fault you describe are the hab door contact or the bonnet switch.
The plunger on the bonnet switch usually presses against the bonnet sound proofing and after time the sound proofing can depress causing the contact to make.
To test this, open the bonnet, hold the plunger down and set the alarm. If the alarm sets okay then something to stop the sound proofing depressing sorts it, but if the alarm will still not set then move onto the hab door contact.

Here's my hab door contact, small like button nearly flush to the door frame near the bottom of the frame and a magnet in the door at the same position.
If you have that, let my know and we can go on from there.

View attachment 490603 View attachment 490604

Do you know where to source this button reed switch. I need one for my Aspire 265

 

[Two on Tour]

Do you know where to source this button reed switch. I need one for my Aspire 265

Hi aml1951, you can either buy them directly from Autowatch or from Huntors Fire and Security. I would get a couple of spares and keep on your van as I have had a couple fail.

https://www.hunters-wholesalers.co....rmally-open-pencil-flush-contact-p-71522.html

Welcome on board by the way.

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[Tyrefixer]

AML1951
Hi there, take advice from Two on Tour as he knows all about these problems ,

 

[Jaxtrips]

Hi all! Just joined this forum in the hope that someone can help with my problem (even though, after viewing previous answers, I'm on my way to getting it resolved - hopefully!).
I also have the problem of my Autowatch 695RLC alarm, on my 2015 Elddis 115, not setting (press button on key to lock, beep-beep, beep-beep, beep-beep, 30 seconds later alarm goes off). Having verified that the bonnet switch and wireless pir detector are ok, I located and have cut the wire to the reed relay housed in the habitation door frame, and the problem has gone! Further tests confirm that the hab door reed relay is permanently closed, whether door is closed or open, resulting in the alarm sounding.
I have a replacement one on order from ebay (C91 4 Wire Single Reed Normally Open Pencil Flush Magnetic Contact, Grade 2).

C91 4 Wire Single Reed Normally Open Pencil Flush Magnetic Contact (Grade 2) | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for C91 4 Wire Single Reed Normally Open Pencil Flush Magnetic Contact (Grade 2) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

The advice I would appreciate from yourselves is how do I remove the old reed relay switch and replace it with another? Do I have to remove the door frame of the hab door, or is there a way of just pulling the old one out, pulling a draw string through on the old wires, then using this to reinstall the new wires?
Hopefully someone will be able to advise me on this, Thanks in advance!

 

[Two on Tour]

Hi all! Just joined this forum in the hope that someone can help with my problem (even though, after viewing previous answers, I'm on my way to getting it resolved - hopefully!).
I also have the problem of my Autowatch 695RLC alarm, on my 2015 Elddis 115, not setting (press button on key to lock, beep-beep, beep-beep, beep-beep, 30 seconds later alarm goes off). Having verified that the bonnet switch and wireless pir detector are ok, I located and have cut the wire to the reed relay housed in the habitation door frame, and the problem has gone! Further tests confirm that the hab door reed relay is permanently closed, whether door is closed or open, resulting in the alarm sounding.
I have a replacement one on order from ebay (C91 4 Wire Single Reed Normally Open Pencil Flush Magnetic Contact, Grade 2).

C91 4 Wire Single Reed Normally Open Pencil Flush Magnetic Contact (Grade 2) | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for C91 4 Wire Single Reed Normally Open Pencil Flush Magnetic Contact (Grade 2) at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

The advice I would appreciate from yourselves is how do I remove the old reed relay switch and replace it with another? Do I have to remove the door frame of the hab door, or is there a way of just pulling the old one out, pulling a draw string through on the old wires, then using this to reinstall the new wires?
Hopefully someone will be able to advise me on this, Thanks in advance!

Hi Jaxtrips
Normally the route for the contact wires is behind the flyscreen frame and then down through the edge of the step area and out under the van.
The flyscreen just clips into the doorframe and can easily be eased away with a plastic trim tool. In the bottom aluminum section of the flyscreen the two screws are removed that secure it to the floor.
With the flyscreen removed, you should now see the two white wires from the contact. You should be able to gently pull the wires up through the floor to give you a bit of slack.
The contact is only a tight push fit into the doorframe with a little bit of sealant around the edge.
I find the easiest way to remove the contact is to drive a woodscrew deep into the face of the old contact and tug it out with a pair of pliers.
With the old contact pulled out, now cut the wires off the back of the contact and join them to the wires of your new contact and use the old wires to pull the new wires and contact through the wiring route. A little smear of silicone to keep the water out on the new contact when you push it into place, and join the new contact wires to the old contact wires under your van, and job done.

Give me a yell if you need any clarification.

 

[Jaxtrips]

Hi Two on Tour, thanks for your quick response - also it's thanks to your previous posts on this thread that I have gotten so far towards solving this issue!
I've still yet to receive the replacement contact, ordered yesterday, but will have a look at the flyscreen removal over the weekend in preparation. Thanks for all the other advice on completing replacement, I'll update later, hopefully on successful completion of the job!

Cheers for the help, I really appreciate it!

 

[Two on Tour]

Hi Two on Tour, thanks for your quick response - also it's thanks to your previous posts on this thread that I have gotten so far towards solving this issue!
I've still yet to receive the replacement contact, ordered yesterday, but will have a look at the flyscreen removal over the weekend in preparation. Thanks for all the other advice on completing replacement, I'll update later, hopefully on successful completion of the job!

Cheers for the help, I really appreciate it!

I would order a couple of spare contacts if I were you as these contacts have a habit of failing which can be a pain when you're away in your van and can't set your alarm, I have had two fail.

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[Jaxtrips]

Thanks Two on Tour for the suggestion about getting a couple of spares. So if they fail while you are away do you do the repair straight away? How long would you say it takes you to do the replacement?

 

[Two on Tour]

Thanks Two on Tour for the suggestion about getting a couple of spares. So if they fail while you are away do you do the repair straight away? How long would you say it takes you to do the replacement?

Luckily, I have not had a contact fail while way in our van, but it is a simple enough job to do on the road if you travel equipped with the bits and bobs to do the job.
It took longer to change the contact the first time as it was an unknown as to what to do and go about it, but with you being armed with an idea of what's required, then less than an hour tops should see it done.

 

[Jaxtrips]

Hi Jaxtrips
Normally the route for the contact wires is behind the flyscreen frame and then down through the edge of the step area and out under the van.
The flyscreen just clips into the doorframe and can easily be eased away with a plastic trim tool. In the bottom aluminum section of the flyscreen the two screws are removed that secure it to the floor.
With the flyscreen removed, you should now see the two white wires from the contact. You should be able to gently pull the wires up through the floor to give you a bit of slack.
The contact is only a tight push fit into the doorframe with a little bit of sealant around the edge.
I find the easiest way to remove the contact is to drive a woodscrew deep into the face of the old contact and tug it out with a pair of pliers.
With the old contact pulled out, now cut the wires off the back of the contact and join them to the wires of your new contact and use the old wires to pull the new wires and contact through the wiring route. A little smear of silicone to keep the water out on the new contact when you push it into place, and join the new contact wires to the old contact wires under your van, and job done.

Give me a yell if you need any clarification.

Just an update on the repair of the habitation door alarm switch on my 2015 Elddis Prestige 115, now completed!

Thanks to Two on Tour for his help with this and guidance on how to progress.

First of all, removed the flyscreen as suggested, easy enough job! Once removed, I saw that the wiring of the switch did not go behind the flyscreen but went straight through the bodywork at the rear of the switch at 45 degrees, into the area under the van, to the side of the step. Every cloud has a silver lining though - the previous, existing problem of the flyscreen being a bit loose within the door frame was resolved by installing slightly thicker and slightly longer screws in the top of of the flyscreen.

I tried to use Two on Tours suggestion of putting a screw into the switch to aid removal. Unfortunately, due to being held in place by silicone, it just disintegrated. Easily drilled it out using an 8mm drill bit, removing the switch and wiring. Threaded the wiring through to under the van and pushed the switch into place.
The new switch comes with 4 wires, two white, two red. Found on internet that the two red ones are 'anti-tamper' circuit????? Didn't know what to do with these - unable to find any info on internet on what to do with them. The two white wires feed the switch, which was confirmed using a meter and the magnet supplied. Reconnected the new white wires to the alarm feed cable; twisted, soldered and insulated with individual heat shrink sleeves, then 2nd large heat shrink over whole connection. Shrinkdown on red wires also.

Finished by securing wiring in place using cable straps to prevent movement. Sealed around switch in door frame. Sealed in and around the cable hole underneath, using a substantial amount of Sikaflex 522 sealant (from ebay) to prevent water ingress.

Job completed, alarm now working as normal!

I've bought 2 x switches again (from Ebay for less than £6), as recommended by Two on Tour, so ready for the next time it goes faulty!

Thanks yet again to Two on Tour!

 

[Two on Tour]

Many thanks for coming back to give us an update and a rundown of how you fixed yours as it may well give some guidance to others that have the same problem in the future.

 

[ANGELA P]

Glad you got it sorted. Yes it was the same series of beeps.
Prior to that, we had had two occasisions on same day when alarm had set successfully but upon return, neighbouring camper had reported that alarm had suddenly started going off. I think both times front of van into the wind but we didn't know about bonnet contact until onour return home we started getining the 3 beeps as you describe and phoned our dealer.
Do you still need a photo?

Hello we have this same problem and did what you said to test it and it is the bonnet.how did you fix the problem please

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[jezport]

Clean the switch and lubricate it

 

[Riverbankannie]

Hello we have this same problem and did what you said to test it and it is the bonnet.how did you fix the problem please

We removed the under bonnet cover and glued a piece of very firm foam to the underside of the bonnet so that it was stuck between the bonnet and the under bonnet cover above the alarm contact. It gives the contact a firm surface to connect to, so anything that you have to hand will do. We had just cut cylinders out of a block of closed cell foam to make a wine bottle storage shelf so that what we had handy.

 

[Stealaway]

Hello we have this same problem and did what you said to test it and it is the bonnet.how did you fix the problem please

I glued a plastic disc exactly where the switch touched the bonnet lid cover

 

[Two on Tour]

The sound insulation on the underside of our bonnet was being depressed by the contact of the plunger allowing it to trigger our alarm.
I glued an aluminum plate to the insulation to stop it being depressed.

While I was investigating the false alarming, I found that the bonnet contact was corroded and likely to cause future problems, so I replaced it with a stainless steel version.