How to screw into a Hymer

I think you may have got that to do list in the wrong order. Otherwise you may waste a lot of money. ;):LOL:

I agree. Take the van to a weighbridge and get the front & rear axles weighed separately. If you intend to travel with a full tank of fresh water, add water.

Then, you can do a simple calculation to determine the extra load on the rear axle. All you need is the manufacturers scooter weight, distance scooter is located behind the rear axle and the wheelbase of the van.

If you want to improve the rear axle payload you could always remove the slide-out rear scooter rack and sell it for a nice profit. That probably weighs at least 50kg.
 
This what I use to strap the scooter down. It's a cross-braced system so no chance of it becoming detached.

81YtN3P-VgL._SX425_.jpg
 
Yes I think mine must be 1140mm high...the Honda SH125 is 1150 mm tall...plus I thought I would have to allow a bit for the ramp effect....I looked at a SH125 and it does seem quite a bit chunkier than the Honda Vision 110 and would take up more space....is your Suzuki a 110cc...and is it OK for two up ?

The ramp effect actually improves the clearance by about 2cm.....because the back wheel is lower than the front wheel. So, you could probably choose a scooter which is 2cm higher than the door opening.

The only caveat is......this only works if you drive/push the scooter in forwards and extract it backwards.

PS. I have a Honda PCX which is 109cm high. My garage height opening is 109cm. Clearance on loading is about 2cm.
 
I totally misread this thread title.

I thought it was a sex education question about getting it on in a Hymer.

I am no better qualified to answer the question I thought it was than the actual question.

Actually ... reading the answers, I thought I was indeed very French, an therefore the only one to think dirty... Well Dear , you are more French than you think you are AHAHAH!!!!!
 
Actually ... reading the answers, I thought I was indeed very French, an therefore the only one to think dirty... Well Dear , you are more French than you think you are AHAHAH!!!!!
yodeli Franki, Chris puts on a brave front as we say in English. Deep down he really loves you French and us English. But he is just too embarrassed to admit it and he worries he will never be able to show his face again in Wales if he does. :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Let the tyres down if you are to high. An old lorry drivers trick you have a pump for the van so no agro as I see it??
 
Other problem I’ve got is that the garage door seems to be about 113cm high if you exclude the rubber seals and the Honda SH125 seems to be 115cm....the Honda Vision 110 is 113cm....but then presumably with the ramp I would need more than 113cm opening depending on the length of the ramp I think....whereas if the scooter is on the scooter rack then don’t have a height issue....and is a Honda Vision110 powerful enough for two especially up hills...
A “friend” has a Piaggio Typhoon 50cc, deregulated, which would do 40mph on the flat with 2 up, no problem. And he can carry a pillion, car test 1969, so “grandfather’s rights”, if anyone asks!
 
Hymerbell if you need and probably will extra sliding eye bolts I didn’t bother buying the stupidly expensive ones from Hymer but made up my own. I purchased 8m stainless steel eye nuts on eBay and some 8m roofing bolts from local hardware shop which I cut to length to suit the rail. You need to remove the end cap/caps from the rail end/s to slide them in. I used roofing bolts as heads are circular and shallow so slide easily in the rail. So much cheaper than than ones supplied and better finished. I also purchased stainless steel shackles again on EBay to fit onto the eye bolts. Can provide links if required.
BED3F274-AD0D-49E9-B942-AC091DC7002E.jpeg
875F1D24-9D4A-450B-8E82-BB102D288649.jpeg
5D9E4C94-FB9F-4ACB-B6E7-6FEDDBEECE00.jpeg
 
Hymerbell if you need and probably will extra sliding eye bolts I didn’t bother buying the stupidly expensive ones from Hymer but made up my own. I purchased 8m stainless steel eye nuts on eBay and some 8m roofing bolts from local hardware shop which I cut to length to suit the rail. You need to remove the end cap/caps from the rail end/s to slide them in. I used roofing bolts as heads are circular and shallow so slide easily in the rail. So much cheaper than than ones supplied and better finished. I also purchased stainless steel shackles again on EBay to fit onto the eye bolts. Can provide links if required.View attachment 368210View attachment 368211View attachment 368212
Hey...fantastic....yes I do need some more bolts....only got two...I will be on to flea bay immediately...thanks.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
The ramp effect actually improves the clearance by about 2cm.....because the back wheel is lower than the front wheel. So, you could probably choose a scooter which is 2cm higher than the door opening.

The only caveat is......this only works if you drive/push the scooter in forwards and extract it backwards.

PS. I have a Honda PCX which is 109cm high. My garage height opening is 109cm. Clearance on loading is about 2cm.
Ah right...just goes to show you can’t believe everything someone tells you...the guy in the Motorcycle dealers said the complete opposite...so I might be able to get a 116cm high scooter as my garage is 114cm....probable best to try it out first though...because of the bed configuration might be best to try and get a thinner scooter anyway....I once went across France...north to south on a 50cc velocette or what ever it was called...engine on the front when I was 16 with a couple of mates when we were 16...80 quid for 3 weeks...lived on jam sandwiches and coke....teeth all loose by the time we got back....happy days.
 
Hey...fantastic....yes I do need some more bolts....only got two...I will be on to flea bay immediately...thanks.
Just checked and measured the stainless shackles they are 6mm you don’t need anything larger the governing factor is the strength of the aluminium rails so multiple straps to spread the strain on them.
015CF96F-B23F-4A90-B2E5-2174C6BBB9A8.jpeg
 
Fiamma do hold-down eyes, £8 for 2. They are quite substantial. Fitted them to my corner bar. But...had to enlarge the opening at one end of the bar to slide them in.


Edit: 10% discount if you purchase from Johns Cross.
 
Last edited:
Must change my glasses missed the * into* bit, not what I thought it would be :LOL:
 
You are not going to get a fixing strong enough to hold a scooter in 3mm ply. Drill through the floor and use stainless steel nuts and bolts. Spread the load under the floor by bolting through an ali strip 40mm x 5mm the same length as the fixing rail you are fixing in the garage. Plenty of sealant around each of drilled holes.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
Don’t use stainless steel nuts and bolts. Stainless will not be strong enough. Use 8.8 high-tensile bolts as a minimum.
 
“Don’t use Stainless” why not? We are talking 120 kg max for a 125 scooter, 8m dia bolts more than strong enough when used with spreader bars fitted under the floor gravity is going to assist keeping it down and a few well placed camlock straps through eyes with shackles to side rail or rails, it’s not going to move anywhere .
 
I’m basing my opinion on DVSA guidelines for ‘aftermarket’ Class 4a seat belt installations. Read the wording in MOT testers guide under that heading. I merely suggested not to use SS bolts and nuts because of concern that one wouldn’t want (however many kgs) of scooter floating about inside your MH in the event of an accident.
 
I’m basing my opinion on DVSA guidelines for ‘aftermarket’ Class 4a seat belt installations. Read the wording in MOT testers guide under that heading. I merely suggested not to use SS bolts and nuts because of concern that one wouldn’t want (however many kgs) of scooter floating about inside your MH in the event of an accident.
If your scooter is in the garage and you use the spreader bar I suggest the floor will fail long before the bolts. After all it is only 35mm composite panel, or maybe just thick ply. The advice on seat belts covers the situation where you are bolting to the chassis or other load bearing part of the vehicle, but that chassis or load bearing structure, rarely extends into the garage area. At best you may have a chassis extension piece. At worst you will just have strengtheners in the floor.

Most of the converters advertise that you can put scooters in their garages and most also include loading rails already bolted into the garage walls or floors. As it happens the OP has said that he has those rails, so my advice about bolting through the floor is redundant. Nearly everybody with a scooter in the garage, including me, uses those rails to support it in some way. If that has caused problems in the past I suspect we would have heard by now.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
If your scooter is in the garage and you use the spreader bar I suggest the floor will fail long before the bolts. After all it is only 35mm composite panel, or maybe just thick ply. The advice on seat belts covers the situation where you are bolting to the chassis or other load bearing part of the vehicle, but that chassis or load bearing structure, rarely extends into the garage area. At best you may have a chassis extension piece. At worst you will just have strengtheners in the floor.

Most of the converters advertise that you can put scooters in their garages and most also include loading rails already bolted into the garage walls or floors. As it happens the OP has said that he has those rails, so my advice about bolting through the floor is redundant. Nearly everybody with a scooter in the garage, including me, uses those rails to support it in some way. If that has caused problems in the past I suspect we would have heard by now.
Right...getting confused now....I’ve got side rails...one on each side of the garage...presumably I can strap to these...I was thinking of the wheel chock...does that need to be bolted right through the floor...I thought Stewart J had a neat solution with the chock on the plywood....that way I don’t have to drill through the floor and can remove the chock and plywood if I’m not using it.
 
Right...getting confused now....I’ve got side rails...one on each side of the garage...presumably I can strap to these...I was thinking of the wheel chock...does that need to be bolted right through the floor...I thought Stewart J had a neat solution with the chock on the plywood....that way I don’t have to drill through the floor and can remove the chock and plywood if I’m not using it.
You are correct my baseboard is not bolted or screwed into or through the garage floor. The plywood is cut to the exact width of the garage side to side so movement is impossible. I rely on good strapping to secure it.
 
Right...getting confused now....I’ve got side rails...one on each side of the garage...presumably I can strap to these...I was thinking of the wheel chock...does that need to be bolted right through the floor...I thought Stewart J had a neat solution with the chock on the plywood....that way I don’t have to drill through the floor and can remove the chock and plywood if I’m not using it.
Yes you can use the side rails to tie it down, see the photo in post #22 for the way I have done it. If you have them at an angle like that it will hold it down to stop it moving backwards or forwards and also stop it moving side to side.

I have exactly the same wheelchock as Stewart J but I have bolted mine through the floor. I used SS bolts nuts and washers and aluminium bar to spread the load on the underside of the floor. All sealed to the underside of the floor, but I can take the bolts out and remove the chock if I want. But we always have the scooter in the motorhome as we do not use it at home, where we have got nice warm cars if we want to go out.
 
You are correct my baseboard is not bolted or screwed into or through the garage floor. The plywood is cut to the exact width of the garage side to side so movement is impossible. I rely on good strapping to secure it.
Yes you can use the side rails to tie it down, see the photo in post #22 for the way I have done it. If you have them at an angle like that it will hold it down to stop it moving backwards or forwards and also stop it moving side to side.

I have exactly the same wheelchock as Stewart J but I have bolted mine through the floor. I used SS bolts nuts and washers and aluminium bar to spread the load on the underside of the floor. All sealed to the underside of the floor, but I can take the bolts out and remove the chock if I want. But we always have the scooter in the motorhome as we do not use it at home, where we have got nice warm cars if we want to go out.
OK thanks all....last question....I promise..... Stewart J Could you tell me where you got your plywood...I went to B&Q and they only had rough old plywood not nice looking stuff that you have used....did you go to a timber merchant ? also what depths...was it two pieces of 3mm or 5mm or something...
 
OK thanks all....last question....I promise..... Stewart J Could you tell me where you got your plywood...I went to B&Q and they only had rough old plywood not nice looking stuff that you have used....did you go to a timber merchant ? also what depths...was it two pieces of 3mm or 5mm or something...
The really important question in all this is ....... have you gone to that weighbridge yet. ::bigsmile: No point in preparing to carry a scooter if you don't have the payload.

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 
OK thanks all....last question....I promise..... Stewart J Could you tell me where you got your plywood...I went to B&Q and they only had rough old plywood not nice looking stuff that you have used....did you go to a timber merchant ? also what depths...was it two pieces of 3mm or 5mm or something...
I had them cut at a local builders merchants in Hexham. Used two thickness’s of plywood, this old thread might also help, post 16 gives the thicknesses.
 
The really important question in all this is ....... have you gone to that weighbridge yet. ::bigsmile: No point in preparing to carry a scooter if you don't have the payload.
I’m sure I’ve got the payload...GVW 3900kg and 2200kg rear axle....if necessary I’ll leave out she who must be obeyeds’ shoes...
 
I had them cut at a local builders merchants in Hexham. Used two thickness’s of plywood, this old thread might also help, post 16 gives the thicknesses.
Ah great...got all the detail I need now....thanks Stewart J for all that and the pictures and to peterc10 too...saved a lot of thinking...
 
I’m sure I’ve got the payload...GVW 3900kg and 2200kg rear axle....if necessary I’ll leave out she who must be obeyeds’ shoes...
To me that sounds really like ............. "la la la la la la I'me not listening" ........................ ::bigsmile: :doh:

You will be struggling on the rear axle I can assure you. I am on 2500kg when I put my scooter in and I only just squeeze in.
 
To me that sounds really like ............. "la la la la la la I'me not listening" ........................ ::bigsmile: :doh:

You will be struggling on the rear axle I can assure you. I am on 2500kg when I put my scooter in and I only just squeeze in.
That’s what my dad used to say to me ?

Subscribers  do not see these advertisements

 

Join us or log in to post a reply.

To join in you must be a member of MotorhomeFun

Join MotorhomeFun

Join us, it quick and easy!

Log in

Already a member? Log in here.

Back
Top