X250 ventilation fan faults/fixes

Techno

Techno

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Rapido 7090F 3 litre 160
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May 2010
X250 4 speed ventilation fan faults and remedies.
Various symptoms occur so lets look at these logically.
The circuit fuse is no.8 40amp in the engine bay fuse/relay box.
Between the fuse and the fan is a 30 amp relay in the same box.
On from the relay is the fan speed selector switch, this switches a bank of resistors (resistor pack) that lives in the main airflow duct near the fan.
The resister pack gets very hot in use which is why it is placed in the air stream to dissipate this heat.

So if the fan stops working completely?
Fuse gone?
Relay failed?
Resister pack thermal fuse open circuited?
Fan motor failed?
Speed selector switch?

First check the fuse with a meter.
Check the relay by borrowing one of the others in the relay box.
If the fuse was OK and the relay is OK then try a new resister pack.

If the fan suddenly only works on full speed?
Replace the resister pack or try closing up the female spades on the electrical connector first, there are 4 connections.

I've not experienced fan motor failure nor speed selector switch failures myself.

**Pictures of left hand drive model. (transpose for UK)**
Fuse box is the same for both
CA_01051514571345-XL.jpg

Relay pack low level behind passenger glove box aside of fan motor.
remove 5.5mm head screw
CA_01051514575936-XL.jpg

CA_01091513261013-XL.jpg

squeeze the tabs on opposite corners and slide the pack in the opposite direction to the screw. It will then drop downwards.
CA_01091513255873-XL.jpg

CA_01051514563260-L.jpg


Fuse and relay may be different on 2011 onwards models but the principle is the same.
EDIT in fact this will be pretty much the same on very many vehicles.

This is deliberately kept very basic.
 
Last edited:
Cor !
I aint seen a wire wound like that green one since the days of valve based tele's !
OK, they were usually cylindrical rather than flat but same principle

Great write up again Andy (y)
 
One FUN member has just self repaired their fan as per this article (stopped working completely) and in their case it was the relay.
I have sourced a genuine new one £2.75 + 90p p&p (y)
 
Yes with your direction and instruction you have a saved us many pounds you are a hero to us x
Gail and Karen
 
Saved your Fun membership fee for sure (y)

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VW Transporters, suffer from that problem, ok on full speed but bugger all else

Great fix(y)

Andy
 
Resister packs very cheap on ebay, I paid £13.55
 
Great article thanks
 
Hi, I was just able to leave for our summer break in Europe and started the van and noticed fan had stopped working. Just looked into the issue the first thing I changed was the air flow regulator which didn't fix the problem.Fuse also ok so looked at help on the internet and came across your post. Your help has been invaluable as I have been to the dealer and they could not identify where the problem lay. With your help with the relay fuse box image I ordered one on line and changed it. Fixed the fan now all fine so may thanks to you. I can't thank you enough, main dealer prices are mad and this part cost me £2 on eBay !

Brilliant post. Thanks again

Paul .


Techno said:
X250 4 speed ventilation fan faults and remedies.
Various symptoms occur so lets look at these logically.
The circuit fuse is no.8 40amp in the engine bay fuse/relay box.
Between the fuse and the fan is a 30 amp relay in the same box.
On from the relay is the fan speed selector switch, this switches a bank of resistors (resistor pack) that lives in the main airflow duct near the fan.
The resister pack gets very hot in use which is why it is placed in the air stream to dissipate this heat.

So if the fan stops working completely?
Fuse gone?
Relay failed?
Resister pack thermal fuse open circuited?
Fan motor failed?
Speed selector switch?

First check the fuse with a meter.
Check the relay by borrowing one of the others in the relay box.
If the fuse was OK and the relay is OK then try a new resister pack.

If the fan suddenly only works on full speed?
Replace the resister pack or try closing up the female spades on the electrical connector first, there are 4 connections.

I've not experienced fan motor failure nor speed selector switch failures myself.

**Pictures of left hand drive model. (transpose for UK)**
Fuse box is the same for both
CA_01051514571345-XL.jpg

Relay pack low level behind passenger glove box aside of fan motor.
remove 5.5mm head screw
CA_01051514575936-XL.jpg

CA_01091513261013-XL.jpg

squeeze the tabs on opposite corners and slide the pack in the opposite direction to the screw. It will then drop downwards.
CA_01091513255873-XL.jpg

CA_01051514563260-L.jpg


Fuse and relay may be different on 2011 onwards models but the principle is the same.
EDIT in fact this will be pretty much the same on very many vehicles.

This is deliberately kept very basic.
Click to expand...
 
My fan stopped working a few months ago-tried fuses and everything else.Was talking to an old mechanic friend week after "just give it a thump underneath -sometimes works " he said .Did so and it kicked in and has been OK since !!
 
ultima said:
My fan stopped working a few months ago-tried fuses and everything else.Was talking to an old mechanic friend week after "just give it a thump underneath -sometimes works " he said .Did so and it kicked in and has been OK since !!
Click to expand...
That would indicate poor electrical contacts. Better to fix it than thump it or it will just reoccur.
Old mechanics are dodgy on electrics :xlaugh:
 
Think it was just the brushes sticking if it persists again will fix it.
 
Just to give this thread a bump. My 2007 (x250) Ducato started to get a dodgy blower heater fan. Sometimes it'd work, then it'd only work on max. I found this thread and started to investigate. Turns out that the connector going to the resistor pack had fried. Apparently this is pretty common on many vehicles across lots of makes. I think my resistor pack was OK, but the pins were a little singed, so I replaced it anyway.

Here's the location on a right hand drive. You don't need to take the glove box to pieces to get to it... in fact I'm wondering if the damage to the wire might have started from an accidental kick from the passenger. You can see the replacement bit of loom that I'm about to splice back in.
20180902_160846.jpg


Here's a close-up of the burnt out connector:
20180902_163051.jpg


I spliced the wiring back in with butt crimp connectors. Not sure if it's the best solution for carrying the current, but they are physically robust.
20180902_162645.jpg


I then wrapped it all in a double layer of electrical insulation tape (I don't have any fabric loom tape with the black schmoo that gets everywhere) and poked the wire back up.
20180902_163342.jpg


All re-fitted and tested. You can see from this angle, it's a little exposed...
20180902_164030.jpg

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Just had it looked at. As Techno quite rightly said in reply #13 , this was also the case with my wiring plug. Had it all disconnected, contacts cleaned and refitted, and no signs of overheating found at the plug connections, just a bit of corrosion found on the contacts. All is working well now. Thanks again everyone. Just goes to show again, what a great bunch of Funsters we have on this forum.
 
Guigsy said:
Just to give this thread a bump. My 2007 (x250) Ducato started to get a dodgy blower heater fan. Sometimes it'd work, then it'd only work on max. I found this thread and started to investigate. Turns out that the connector going to the resistor pack had fried. Apparently this is pretty common on many vehicles across lots of makes. I think my resistor pack was OK, but the pins were a little singed, so I replaced it anyway.

Here's the location on a right hand drive. You don't need to take the glove box to pieces to get to it... in fact I'm wondering if the damage to the wire might have started from an accidental kick from the passenger. You can see the replacement bit of loom that I'm about to splice back in.
View attachment 252681

Here's a close-up of the burnt out connector:
View attachment 252683

I spliced the wiring back in with butt crimp connectors. Not sure if it's the best solution for carrying the current, but they are physically robust.
View attachment 252682

I then wrapped it all in a double layer of electrical insulation tape (I don't have any fabric loom tape with the black schmoo that gets everywhere) and poked the wire back up.
View attachment 252684

All re-fitted and tested. You can see from this angle, it's a little exposed...
View attachment 252685
Click to expand...
Where did you get the new connector from?
Mines dodgy at some give it a clump and works so prob needs replacing a some point.
 
Can anyone help me. Where is the ventilator motor fuse located on a 2002 Hymer B544 ?
 
William Brett said:
Can anyone help me. Where is the ventilator motor fuse located on a 2002 Hymer B544 ?
Click to expand...
:welco:
Can you tell us what make and model the base vehicle is? I’m sure someone will be able to help.

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Great help, thanks!

The electric connector is (mostly) clicked on the back, not so much on the sides. So I almost broke the connector...

The relay is indeed clicked on the sides. On the same height as the screw.
 

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