What to do with my fridge wiring

[Tombola]

400ah of lithium, 2000w inverter, 500w (maybe 600) solar, and b2b.
3way dometic automatic fridge freezer

BUT, as Im playing with running new sockets, inverter going in and lots of solar up top, Im asking myself, what do I do with my fridge while Im at it, to give me more choice in future.

Do I run a feed from the invertor (that auto switches over) to run it on 240 to the 240 side of Fridge
Or run a 12v feed to the 12v side.
Seems a waste to convert dc to ac then to fridge ?
or do I use a smaller inverter I have lying around and use that JUST for the fridge?

I know it will use a lot of power approx 9-12 amps and a run rate of approx 30-50% of time, but what do you think.

thanks

 

[Lenny HB]

The 230v element is bigger than the 12v so 230v would be better in hot weather. On our fridge (Dometic8505) 12v is 170 watt, 230v 250watt.
Don't have Lithium but the S+ terminal on my fridge is wired to the AES output on my solar regulator (Votronic) so when the batteries are charged and there is enough solar it automatically changes to 12v. It does it in ½ hour blocks so as to make sure the batteries stay charged.

 

[the1andonly]

I have lithium and a votronics duo controling the 12V fridge via the AES. As Lenny HB says it seems to mess about with 30min blocks, (in my set up a pain) with your set up i would run a mains system with a manual switch over from your 2nd inverter. you can then leave the fridge on Auto select power.
I use a manual switch over for 1 socket i have at rear of van. But this is for stuff i can run off my 800W MSW inverter

 

[Googlebot]

I have the s+ Votronic setup and it works well when it’s sunny.

I suppose if you plan to have the inverter switched on all the time then go for it. It will be better than 12v but will use more power. You do have plenty of that though.

 

[Lenny HB]

One problem with running from the inverter is it will cost you another couple of amps when you are already drawing around 21 amps to run the fridge even with Lithium still quite a hit on your power consumption.

On 12v only draws 14 amps, assuming your fridge is wired for running off the hab batteries (Hymers are) you could just put 12v on the S+ terminal and the fridge will switch to 12v when on AES. I would do it via a timer so as to limit the impact on your batteries or if you forget you wouldn't want it running 24 hours on 12v. Also worth doing timed blocks so the batteries get a bit of recovery time the time period can be what you set.

If you go the inverter method I would think it would be essential to use a timer, that would be easy with a mains timer, one of the smart ones would be ideal.

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