What size pipe?

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To save me time from going up to the van does anyone know what size the water pipe is normally on a motorhome? I don't think it's 15mm like household plumbing. The reason I ask is I am going to fit an inexpensive Srewfix water filter as a pre filter for my very expensive Nature pure filter and need to sort out the fittings.
 
Pipe sizes vary
I’d check before ordering
In our N&B it’s 15mm speed fit

But on our Carthago I think it was 12mm
 
I realise the filter will be 15mm it was the van side that I couldn't remember the size of, I think Bob is right 12mm and I'm not about to disagree with him, not sure who is the scariest Bob or Jannie:D

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To save me time from going up to the van does anyone know what size the water pipe is normally on a motorhome? I don't think it's 15mm like household plumbing. The reason I ask is I am going to fit an inexpensive Srewfix water filter as a pre filter for my very expensive Nature pure filter and need to sort out the fittings.
Crikey Dane, 2 filters! Are you planning on recycling your cassette contents?:eek:
The only problem I can foresee with your idea is the reduction in water pressure.
We only filter the cold supply to the kitchen tap for drinking and cooking, but the NP does reduce the flow considerably and I feel another filter in line would make matters worse.
 
I had an issue the other day where the water pipe where I store need mending resulting in the water having a lot of rust, I ran the water until it cleared and filled the van up and from that point the output from the drinking water filter started to drop off, so I assume there was still a lot of solids in the water and it clogged up the very fine micro mesh filter. So my thinking is if I have a cheap pre filter it will pick up the solids before getting to the expensive filter.


If anyone can see a flaw in my thinking please let me know.
 
Loss of pressure? Would it be easier to filter water at fill point rather than extra filter?
 
I'm no fluid dynamicist but would it be a loss of pressure, loss of flow or both.

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Loss of pressure? Would it be easier to filter water at fill point rather than extra filter?
+1. My old Series 2 was ex Aden and had a sand filter on the fuel filler which was a can sized mesh cylinder which went in the filler. Also our dishwasher at home has a similar kind of cylindrical mesh filter on it. I'd be minded to think of some form of nylon mesh attached to plastic ring, that I could poke down the water inlet when filling if I thought it would be an issue.
But, IMO, unless I was filling up off grid in the dark continent I suspect it isn't!
 
Loss of pressure? Would it be easier to filter water at fill point rather than extra filter?
Problem with that is you are filtering the chlorine out of the water, not a good idea if you are storing water several days.

Hymer pipes are 10mm.
 
Problem with that is you are filtering the chlorine out of the water, not a good idea if you are storing water several days.

Hymer pipes are 10mm.

I have bitten the bullet and purchased an inexpensive high flow rate pleated filter that will go inline just before the ultra fine 0.4 micron filter, it's near enough the same flow rate as the pump so that should be ok, it's to strip out any sediment before it gets to the expensive filter. The tank will still have it's chlorine as it's on the pump side.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice.

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why can you not empty and flush your cold water tank and take out your expensive filter and back flush any rust particles out of it and refit
 
why can you not empty and flush your cold water tank and take out your expensive filter and back flush any rust particles out of it and refit

I have but this is if it happens again, as it doesn't take a lot to clog up the filter that are close to £100 each.
 
Buy an inexpensive filter, fit hose fittings to both ends, and put in in line with the filling hose when you have a "suspect" supply. We used that system with the R-V we had in the USA, as some sources could be problematical.
 

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