What adhesive \ sealant? (1 Viewer)

[Gellyneck]

Looking at doing a couple of resealing \ joint repairs on the motorhome over the next couple of days before our next trip.

When I stuck the satellite dish on the roof I used Sikaflex 252 however have also used Puraflex on some other "non-critical" joints. As the current jobs are "non-critical" (rebonding skirt joint and panel joints) I was about to get some Puraflex from Toolstation but came across this and wondered if any other Funster had tried it or had thoughts on it.

Soudal Fix All Turbo Adhesive & Sealant 300ml White | Toolstation

• Super fast setting • Rapid strength build up after 20 mins • Final bond strength in 3 hours • Permanently flexible • All materials, all surfaces (except on PE, PP and PTFE) • Interior and exterior use Super fast setting hybrid polymer adhesive. Rapid strength build up after 20...

www.toolstation.com

Was particularly interested in the curing timeframe and "Can be applied in all weather conditions, internally and externally." statement.

Thoughts from the experts?

 

[Raul]

I used fix all on a rubber threshold under the garage door. It came with it. Two winters later it’s still the same , stuck on the concrete.
For panelling I recommend tiger seal. I used it on a horse box seams, dried by the next day and it’s blended within the paint nice.

 

[tezza-alli]

Puraflex white and black for marine/leisure use. Used it for around 11 years even on our S-Plus. Fixed many things including 250watt solar panels, Sat dish with no other fixings etc. Many sealing up jobs etc etc. Look on the back of the tubes made by the SIKA company. A friend bought our last Hymer 7 1/2 years ago. After seeing posts saying people had had solar panels fly off their roof. I got a little paranoid and told him to check every thing out on the roof. All was still tight and secure.

 

[Gellyneck]

Well, was passing Toolstation this morning and popped in to collect both Puraflex and Soudall (14 day money back so no probs) and the rumour in store is that they will be focussing on Soudall products going forward and dropping Evo Stik (in it's entirety) and Everbuild (most items) who are Puraflex.

Guy wasn't too sure if it was included or ongoing but it could mean we lose our local \ cheapish outlets.

 

[Diabalo]

Gellyneck , Did you re-seal the Cab/Pod seam awhile back? If so did you dig out the old stuff.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Gellyneck]

Gellyneck , Did you re-seal the Cab/Pod seam awhile back? If so did you dig out the old stuff.

Guessing yours will be the same as ours in relation to colour, etc.

Our overcab HiLine "Luton" is sealed with white sealant above the windscreen between the "A" pillars and I haven't done anything with that. It is a bitty discoloured but it's a bu**er to get to over the bonnet so have left well alone!

However, from the "A" pillar across the top of the door, around the habitation pod fairing to the white "D" profile vertical seam cover is black and I have replaced both sides a couple \ three years back.

I used a 9mm snap off bladed trimming knife and carefully inserted this at the bottom of the original sealant and cut along following the seam between the panels. I then did the same along the top of the original sealant. Basically, you're cutting a "V" along the joint.

Used a pair of fine nosed pliers to grip the sealant and teased this out of the seam. Once you get it started you can then grip with your fingers and carefully pull out following the seam.

With the exception of a couple of bits where I hadn't cut through properly it came out in a oner. If it does catch at an uncut bit just get the knife back in and cut.

I then carefully cleaned up the opened seam with, from memory, isopropyl alcohol and masked up with masking tape and resealed, making sure the sealant was getting forced fully between the panels. A wetted finger gave a smooth(ish) finish.

Pulled off the masking tape and gave any raised edges a final smooth with the wetted finger again.

I used Puraflex 40 Black for the sealant. It did take a good few hours for the sealant to cure hence the reason I was asking about the Soudall stuff above.

Hope that helps, Dane.

 

[Diabalo]

Gellyneck Great info, thanks matey

 

[Greasy Chap Butty]

I've used Sikaflex EBT from Screwfix on our roof vents. Had to pop up there to change something, and it was still bonded very well.

I think the big thing to watch for with any adhesive or sealant is the material you are bonding. Some plastics and rubber are swines to bond, with anything.

 

[Raul]

I think the big thing to watch for with any adhesive or sealant is the material you are bonding. Some plastics and rubber are swines to bond, with anything.

CT1 will stick all that you mentioned and more. It even works under water, I had the opportunity to test that as well. It’s a marvellous modified hybrid polymer.

 

[IRHP]

CT1 will stick all that you mentioned and more. It even works under water, I had the opportunity to test that as well. It’s a marvellous modified hybrid polymer.

Brilliant stuff but not the easiest to work with.

^{_{Subscribers  do not see these advertisements}}

 

[Gellyneck]

CT1 will stick all that you mentioned and more. It even works under water, I had the opportunity to test that as well. It’s a marvellous modified hybrid polymer.

I had looked at that as well but as the Soudall mentioned above is also a modified hybrid polymer that seemingly also adheres to wet surfaces and it's half the price .............

 

[Raul]

True, I have used both, the CT1 tools a smidge better, soudall needs manipulating to stick to surfaces, and works on damp surfaces. CT1 works completely submerged. I have repaired a swiming pool leak two years ago with white CT1 about 2 feet underwater I had to apply it, and it worked.
Both good, but, for seam repair I would definitely go with tiger seal, tools much better and you can achieve a nicer finish. Just don’t over load the seam. If you do, tape before application, and use a silicone rubber tool to get a nice even finish.