Torx bolt seized head ruined

[Robert Clark]

Hi Guys

I’ve got a siezed torx bolt and the head is ruined, so unable to loosen.

Any ideas how I can remove it?

Thanks

 

[meanders]

Depends how much of a head it has, but I have been able to remove one with a pair of mole grips tightened really hard and judicial use of a rubber mallet. Other than that, drill or grind off the head then remove the stub.

 

[Chipster]

How big? Can you get at it easy enough Slot it and screw driver? Extractor/left hand drill, soak with pen oil, drill head off?

 

[MisterB]

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all depends on how easy access is to it, what its fixed into, can the part its screwed into be removed?

the main thing is, YES they can be removed, so dont panic Mr Mannering ....

 

[Robert Clark]

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all depends on how easy access is to it, what its fixed into, can the part its screwed into be removed?

I’ve got some of those !

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[Robert Clark]

Sadly there is little access to the head

I’ll try the stud remover when we’re home

It’s a t25 head - Amy idea what thread size that corresponds to ?

 

[Jake Royd]

If access is poor, consider using a Dremel to carefully grind the head off.

 

[Ditcha]

If you have a Dremel cut a slot in the head then with a small cold chisel tease it around, if no Dremel try just with a chisel, also if you have access to a welder weld a bolt to the head, don't start drilling and using stud extractors only as a very last resort good luck

 

[dunnah01]

I've only ever had any luck by welding a nut onto the mangled bolt head. Cutting the bolt head to either slot for a small bolt or flat sides for a larger bolt has never worked for me and it just gets more mangled. So I have always ended up trying the welder and it usually works. I have managed to remove a couple of smaller bolts by grinding the bolt head off and removing the part and then using mole grips on the shank that's still fixed into the engine.
I'd probably go straight to the welder for a cylinder head bolt tbh.
Where access permits I've tried drilling the bolt out but the material is usually to hard and I just blunt my drill bits. I've tried heat to free off the threads but I don't have enough kit to generate the amount of heat required.

 

[Speve]

If you have a Dremel cut a slot in the head then with a small cold chisel tease it around, if no Dremel try just with a chisel, also if you have access to a welder weld a bolt to the head, don't start drilling and using stud extractors only as a very last resort good luck

Think that looks a bit to delicate to use a cold chisel or welder on?

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[Ditcha]

They look like stainless screws in aluminium that's most probably how they have seized

 

[Les]

You could drill down into the heads depending on if the screw can be expose after,do they screw into blind holes? If so probably not help unless the when heads are drilled off the threads could loosen and you can use extractor but you need hole down centre of thread ,good luck

 

[tonyidle]

Looking at the state of the fastener & the materials involved I doubt that they're seized - just normally tight. The stud extractor is the first easy option. The fastener will be M5.

 

[kevenh]

If you have a Dremel cut a slot in the head then with a small cold chisel tease it around, if no Dremel try just with a chisel, also if you have access to a welder weld a bolt to the head, don't start drilling and using stud extractors only as a very last resort good luck

Think that looks a bit to delicate to use a cold chisel or welder on?

Welding on a nut is a good idea but not in my skill set
The OP could easily have better DIY/hobby skills than me but like Steve I think the site is too delicate.
Lots of plastic.
Can you shunt the heat away? Or is the weld area a localised source of heat anyway?

 

[Ditcha]

Think that looks a bit to delicate to use a cold chisel or welder on?

Done it loads of times I am not talking a builder's chisel but one like this lot more precise.

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[Speve]

Looks like a camera tripod mount to me? Don’t think I’d risk a cold chisel even a small one

 

[Robert Clark]

They look like stainless screws in aluminium that's most probably how they have seized

What type of screws should they be ?

 

[Robert Clark]

Looks like a camera tripod mount to me? Don’t think I’d risk a cold chisel even a small one

Mountain bike handlebars

 

[JockandRita]

Robert, have you tried an Allen key of a similar size in the slot, to see if it can find a grip?

Good luck with it.
Cheers,

Jock.

 

[daveinspain]

My first choice given the location would be to use a stud extractor, less chance of collateral damage.

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[MattR]

Hi Guys

I’ve got a siezed torx bolt and the head is ruined, so unable to loosen.

Any ideas how I can remove it?

Thanks

I'd start with the elastic band technique shown here:



If that didn't work, I'd ask my local bike shots to do it before doing anything destructive to the bolts. If they won't touch it, I'd use a reverse drill or screw extractor providing it doesn't damage much of the outer part of the head. If they fsiked, I'd use a multitool or dremel to cut a small slot in the the and then screwdrive it out.

 

[Richard n Ann]

You probably need a pack of new hss bits to drill down into stainless steel, use oil while drilling too

 

[Wikky]

Get a hex headed screw spot welded to the head of the siezed stud. Probably a garage will do it for you for the price of a couple of beers. Heat dissipation from the weld shouldn't be an issue. Spray the siezed stud with penetrating oil afterwards and leave for a few hours.
I've done this before and is the quickest way to defeat the problem.

 

[Ditcha]

Stainless steel reacts with aluminium not saying don't use them together but use a anti seize paste on the screws, also the screws will need to be A4 which is high tensile.

PS Robert your not using them torqx bits you won in that Christmas cracker are you ?

 

[sallylillian]

If you have a Dremel cut a slot in the head then with a small cold chisel tease it around, if no Dremel try just with a chisel, also if you have access to a welder weld a bolt to the head, don't start drilling and using stud extractors only as a very last resort good luck

My thought too, if no dremel or one of those vibrating jobs name of which escapes me, half a small hacksaw blade by hand to create the vertical slot. Robert looks like you did both? Cutting the head off leaves you the threaded stud to remove with more grief maybe.

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[kevenh]

Access to a handlebars fixing bolts could be good, and the surrounding area will not be the plastic I guessed earlier.
So, several options open. Have you exhausted the WD40 one?

 

[Diabalo]

Before you try any of the above firstly heat the heads up by holding the tip of a soldering iron on them, it my be enough to break the seal and assist with the removal.

 

[chaser]

I suppose you have exhausted the big hammer solutions, but if not I would get a Phillips screwdriver bit and hammer it in then get a socket or spanner on it.

 

[Pops 1]

Try knocking the next size up torx bit into the head first, has worked for me in the past.

 

[Raul]

I know you said is mangled, but I don’t think is totalled. I would do this: find a sacrificial T30, one up from the size it’s actually is. Then grind the T30 in a light conical and hammer tap it, in the bolt head. If you feel is loose don’t twist yet. Grind a bit the tip and try again tap it in. It worked on motorbike many times. When you replace the bolt, don’t forget to use some copper grease. The ally is notorious for oxidation of treads.

Pops 1 beat me to it.

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