Thule slide out step fitting question

[BusyBuilder]

I've fitted a Thule slide out step on my Hymer B534 DL to the passenger door.

Following the instructions withe the extra relay (308200) which is supposed to automatically close the step using a ignition wire, it should close when ignition is live. I followed the wiring diagram and used a wire on the passenger door electric window which is live on ignition.

but the step refuses to close automatically. It opens and closes okay with the supplied operation button though. I've contacted Gerry77 who also has fitted this step and also has this problem.

anyone fitted one that closes automatically ?

 

[yorkiebar]

Ours came with the step pre-fitted but I have looked into what's required to fit one yourself. I would get the multimeter out, check the wiring and verify that the leccy window feed becomes +ve when you turn the key.

 

[BusyBuilder]

Already done that thanks.

 

[yorkiebar]

OK, so either the wiring is incorrect or you have a faulty component somewhere.

 

[Hettie's Crew]

Sorry, can’t answer the question but I’m very interested as I’m considering doing the same, though I thought they were wired to pop out when the door opens and retract when the door is closed.

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[BusyBuilder]

They are if fitted with the
Electronic Control Unit 308812, at about £200 extra

 

[BusyBuilder]

OK, so either the wiring is incorrect or you have a faulty component somewhere.

Bit odd that 2 of us have similar problems

 

[Lenny HB]

Hymer normally wire them via a door switch so when you open the for the goes out & closing the door it goes in.

 

[yorkiebar]

Bit odd that 2 of us have similar problems

The auto retract is pretty basic, relay is energised by the engine run signal (or window +ve in your case), this causes the step to retract. When the retract microswitch is hit this interrupts the engine run to relay and so the relay switches off and stops the retraction. Highly likely the wiring is incorrect.
There are some iffy diagrams out on the internet for the steps where the auto retract power is coming from the D+ signal and this has resulted in the D+ fuse blowing and stopping the auto-retract ( and everything else which uses D+, fridges etc). The Thule instuctions state that the auto retract power needs to come from the starter battery but some people have cut corners and used D+.

 

[BusyBuilder]

Okay, thanks Yorkiebar, I'm going to check again tomorrow. This is the wiring diagram I've followed, I've omitted the link with the light on it, (between dashboard and step)could that be the problem ?

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[yorkiebar]

You don't need the lamp link, that's optional. If you've wired as per the Thule diagram and the manual step operation is working then it sounds like the relay isn't being energised. Did you fit the specified capacitor over the relay coil contacts (shouldn't stop it working) ? More importantly is the brown step wire connected to the vehicle chassis? If that's not connected correctly then the auto-retract relay won't energise and trigger the retraction.

 

[Orion]

I would double check the connections on the relay to ensure they are made to the correct terminals, and that the relay is actually activating when the ignition switched +ve is applied to it.

 

[BusyBuilder]

Double checked all connections.......grey one on relay was loose. All working now as it should, that should make the wife happy

 

[yorkiebar]

Marvellous!

The grey wire is part of the relay coil circuit and goes to the step microswitch which is in a closed position when step is out. From the microswitch the path is then to the vehicle chassis. With a non-connected grey then the relay coil would never activate when the engine run is detected.

 

[BusyBuilder]

Electrics are not my strong point LOL !

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[Gellyneck]

that should make the wife happy

What a stoopit and highly optimistic statement!