Signal wire for Oyster sat dish - fused or not? (1 Viewer)

[MisterB]

I am part way through installing an oyster sat dish. All cabling etc done to vehicle earth and 12v power picked up via vehicle fuse box. I have identified an ignition on (only) for the signal wire and to make it easier I was going to fit piggy back fuse holder. As it's only a signal wire to ensure the dish goes down when ignition comes on, it shouldn't need a fuse (??), but I think it makes sense to fit one - anyone offer any advice please as to whether fuse is needed. I have identified rear high level brake light circuit to piggy back onto for the signal wire

 

[lunarman]

MisterB Can you not use the D+ signal, which tells the fridge that the engine is running and to switch to 12v, to connect to rather than picking up the high level brake light?

 

[MisterB]

I suppose I could but I have now run all the cabling back to the vehicle fuse box so picking up an ignition + there would be easier than redoing the cabling.

 

[Anthony OysterTech]

Hi Mr B,

we’ve never used a fuse for the ignition live before but I doubt it’ll hurt.

 

[MisterB]

Thanks Anthony. i have managed to get everything working, so i want to thank you for sending the bits i needed. i fitted it all together and completed all the wiring, except for the signal wire and it all works really well (as it should do!)

Once again thanks for your help over the phone a couple of weeks ago !

i just need to fit it on the roof now ......

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[Anthony OysterTech]

No problem at all. Glad everything’s working as it should.

 

[tonyidle]

Any length of wire carrying +12v should be fused close to the source of power. The connection you use will already be fused. You may consider it convenient to have a very low value fuse near the sat controller so the vehicle fuse will not be the one to fail if a fault occurs in the controller or dish but it isn't necessary for electrical safety purposes.

 

[Anthony OysterTech]

Any length of wire carrying +12v should be fused close to the source of power. The connection you use will already be fused. You may consider it convenient to have a very low value fuse near the sat controller so the vehicle fuse will not be the one to fail if a fault occurs in the controller or dish but it isn't necessary for electrical safety purposes.

The cable in question is a switch wire. The brain unit for the system is fused on the live and the two are connected inside the unit which mean that if either line has a fault then the fuse will blow. There is no need to fused the ignition live however I was stating that it won’t hurt if you do.
There is no safety issues if you do not fuse it.

 

[MisterB]

Any length of wire carrying +12v should be fused close to the source of power. The connection you use will already be fused. You may consider it convenient to have a very low value fuse near the sat controller so the vehicle fuse will not be the one to fail if a fault occurs in the controller or dish but it isn't necessary for electrical safety purposes.

thanks, the way i envisaged installing it was to use a piggy back fuse in the vehicle fuse box, that way i would only need to go to one place to check fuses if there was an issue. so your suggestion/advice is confirmation of my 'plan'.

 

[MisterB]

All cables and wires sorted and control boxes for sat dish installed (and tested!). Wifi booster set up, usb sockets to power modem and firestick if needed. Decided to add switch to wifi booster power lead, so that's on order. Will wire direct to 12v supply that will stay live when ignition is on and vehicle is moving and/or when in use

No holes cut or drilled into the woodwork, so the boss is happy

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[tonyidle]

thanks, the way i envisaged installing it was to use a piggy back fuse in the vehicle fuse box, that way i would only need to go to one place to check fuses if there was an issue. so your suggestion/advice is confirmation of my 'plan'.

Thanks & see Anthony OysterTech post.

 

[DBK]

I'm confused by your WiFi booster. It is normally used outside the MH on a longer lead so it can be pointed towards the WiFi source.

 

[MisterB]

lol, its specific to my set up. i am not looking for a signal externally, i am using an internal source - mobile phone, rather then trying to pick up an external source. next step is to install an external mimo aerial to boost the mobile signal if i feel it neccessary and that way i wont need the motorhome wifi at all as i will use a small modem.

by doing it the way i have, i am hoping it means that data whilst on the move will be available for more than one person - as i have an unlimited data sim that i can share the data via the motorhome wifi.

nothing of course is set in stone and everything can be reconfigured as i havent made any holes in the motorhome furniture by mounting everything as i have and as i already have the motorhome wifi i am not spending money on something which may not work as i envisage.

and i am keeping busy during lockdown !!

 

[Lenny HB]

MisterB Can you not use the D+ signal, which tells the fridge that the engine is running and to switch to 12v, to connect to rather than picking up the high level brake light?

Most vans have a relay unit connected to the D+ to feed all the items that need to be switched by the D+, should be easy to connect to that.

by doing it the way i have, i am hoping it means that data whilst on the move will be available for more than one person - as i have an unlimited data sim that i can share the data via the motorhome wifi.

You don't need the Motorhome WiFi for that it will work straight from your phone.

 

[MisterB]

You don't need the Motorhome WiFi for that it will work straight from your phone.

thanks, i do realise that but i am hoping the motorhome wifi actually boosts the signal when it is shared - i wont know unitl i test download speed

by using the motorhome wifi instead of the mobile phone, it also gives me an ethernet connection which i am using for 'something else' ....

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[Lenny HB]

thanks, i do realise that but i am hoping the motorhome wifi actually boosts the signal whens shared - i wont know unitl i test download speed

by using the motorhome wifi instead of the mobile phone, it also gives me an ethernet connection which i am using for 'something else' ....

It will only boost the WiFi signal from your phone it won't have any effect on the data signal to do that you need a Mifi with external aerial.

 

[MisterB]

It will only boost the WiFi signal from your phone it won't have any effect on the data signal to do that you need a Mifi with external aerial.

which is why i suggested earlier i might go down that route

ps, i really value your comments, they are helping me test 'my mind' by having an alternative view point. it might seem as though i am dismissing everything you say, but honestly, i do value your input.